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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/13/2014 in all areas
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6 pointsI was recently sent this ad from a fellow euro member Simon Cole (Landsurveyor) . It is from a small holder magazine announcing the introduction of the new RJ58/59 to the UK market. The article is also dated 1959 & shows some nice photographs
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4 pointsjust got this to replace my gt 1142. the gt has served me very very well for the last two years but i wanted to upgrade. so ive been looking for awhile and came across this one only about 20 minutes away! so i went ahead and got her. now it didnt come with any attachments but i am going to use the deck off the gt. also, i put my plow, chains and weights on it for this winter. i think it will do very well and hopefully earn its keep. now my future plans are to get new front tires for it, a 48 inch mower deck and maybe some paint and new seat. ive already fallen in love with this thing. just hope it can be as good if not better than the gt. anybody that has a mower deck for sale, please let me know. id like to find one soon so i can have it all ready for this spring. let me now what ya'll think!
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3 pointsHere's a few goodies. An early 60's seat cover. Mirror. And a copper and sterling silver keychain Mrs Funengineer made for me. Sent from my tractor seat.
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3 pointsInterestingly, my first thought was roll-over, or a busted frame. I had taken a quick look earlier in the week to see if the plate was cracked, and never even noticed the missing bolts. However, in my defense, the entire area was so packed with oil and grass clippings that it was a bit difficult to see. I noticed the shiny heads on the lower bolts, but didn't even think about the fact that they were undersized. So, I now surmise that the bolts vibrated lose. I've never seen that before. The upper bolts stayed in, but the lower bolts came completely out. In his haste to make a temporary repair, the previous owner attempted to replace the lowers, but now that the shifting of the plate caused the upper holes to become egg-shaped, the lower holes didn't line up and 1/4" was the only size that would fit into the holes. Since the lower bolts screw into a flange on the transmission case, a long bolt could be put through the plate and flange, then a nut put on the back. After some more time passed, the uppers worked completely out, leaving the situation that I discovered. I had to replace the drive belt due to a large chunk being missing, and the alignment looks fine. As soon as I get another chance to work on it, I am going to replace the cam plate and cam, then work my way forward to the motion control lever, tightening or replacing until I have smooth motion.
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3 pointsIf you're bored this winter it would be a good short term project to turn your shop into a shop, if you haven't already. If anyone here has turned something into equipment I'd love to see it. The big grinder no has a little brother. This one had quit and we wanted an 8" so we got one of those. Seems all that was wrong with the 6" one was the switch so we ordered another one for it and got it going again. We'll use the 8 for grinding and the 6 for cleaning. Of course they had to match... Here is big brother in case you didn't see it in the other thread -
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3 pointsThanks Jerry Funny you should bring this up, I was looking at the front of the hood the other day and thought it looked a bit upright and not as mean as I had in mind! Looking at this photo there is enough space between the front of the hood and the engine frame to "lean" the front of the hood inwards at the bottom... You have certainly given me something to think about Duels anyone? Maybe not... A bit too much Progress has been made although it's hard to tell from the next photo.. The axle has been put back together, diff and half shafts installed.. The axle can now be unbolted from the chassis, and the axle mounting place on the chassis has had some reinforcing.. I really need to take some photos! One thing I always pride myself on is doing everything "In house" or even "In workshop", partly because it's nice to be able to say "I made that", and partly because I'd rather spend time making something than part with money So with that in mind yesterday I finally came up with an accurate, safe and strong way I could convert a Wh rear wheel with it's 5 bolt 4 1/2" PCD.. To fit the Reliant's 4 bolt 4" PCD I found this nice length of thick plate hiding on the bottom of a shelf in Nigel's "Handy scrap metal" store.. (Thanks Nigel ) which is enough to make 2 wheel centers from. Let the lathe work start The bad news is this steel is rather hard so it's going to take quite a while to turn each wheel center!
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2 pointsI just ran across this video on youtube and had never seen or heard of this cooking method before and wondered if any of you grillers and party barbeque cooks have ever tried this, Looks pretty interesting and well, different, but it worked. Just curious if anyone here has tried and what you think about it.
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2 pointsFor many, the time to winterize has long past. I let the time slip by and am only now getting around to doing it now. I would like to see how many different ways our member do this each year and what products if any they use.
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2 pointsGetting the '90 520-8 up 'n runnin' was and is a joy. Heard some poor stuff 'bout the Onan but, all is fine now. Every time I took the Stallion out to work 'n play, my heart skipped, beat fast, and my anxiety grew to unbelievable levels. Hurt. Too bad I had to ride the Horse with my eyes open. Geeze was I T'd off! I fixed the poor Stallion with Mr. Pettit's wonderful expert assistance. Was like heavens opened and the sun shined on the old '90 520-8, a new life! Glen's medicine is better for me and like a seasoned vet the Horse can now breathe relief while crusin' the property. Thanks Mr. Pettit! I'm goin' to look around your Horse Pharmacy!
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2 pointsI just received my new wheel horse sign from brad (876wheelhorse) in the mail today. I love it it looks good here but the woman don't think so Thanks brad roughly $70 shipped to my door .
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2 pointsthats the only thing I hate about those lights some angles it looks really pink. I actually got with a member here on redsquare and he tore a sign apart and put led lights in it. looks alot better. but price went up alittle and well worth it.
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2 points
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2 pointsPosted Today, 02:42 PM If you've seen a tractor ad in the past few years, this Kubota ad does a great job of lampooning the typical tractor commercials you're used to seeing. Definitely thought it was pretty funny and well done: Taken from a post on GTTalk: Lots of other Tractor commercials to view there on YouTube
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2 pointsDepends ......I keep up on maintenance on most things I own. Every small engine I own gets seafoam year round. It helps believe me. Ive found in most cases I can put machines away with an extra dose of seafoam in them and be fine come spring. Oil changes are done per hours on my clock so I don't make that a "spring thing". I keep everything lubed from the get go on anything I buy that hasn't been or anything new. A can of spray grease can be your friend. I also will remove in some cases bolt and nuts and neverseize them and reinstall. All new hardware I put on a machine gets that same treatment. Doing this stuff regularly throughout the year makes it easy as rolling it into the shop for the winter. Oil changes, plugs, etc I do based on engine run time. Some I only run a few times a year. Why put a new plug it in every year? So I go by manufacture hour time if its available.
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2 points
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2 pointsGeno before I forget, I used the Krylon paint plus primer you suggested for the satin black and it didn't react with the Ace Hardware red. Covered in 2 coats, good stuff . Epoxied the new pto disc in place and reinstalled everything. Put the decals on the hood and fender pan and that pretty well wraps it up for this winter. The rest of the decals will go on next year when I tear the upper dash out to repair a stress crack, reinforce the upper steering shaft bushing and take care of the rest of the detail work. Got to get back on the Suburban so this one is done for now.
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2 pointsI did look at every manual in the files, but I was looking for a complete soft cab like mine. Would've never guessed it was that old or made for the GT 14. I'm going to put it back on the C 160 and do whatever it takes to firm up the frame so the doors work right. No need for it on the GT 14's since one's a gardener/mower, and the other one's got the big plow on it. No kids that'd enjoy using the snow thrower without a cab . . . and I don't have enough kid in me to use a snow thrower without a cab . . . unless the wind is 0 mph. Thanks for the help.
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2 pointsWTG Bob ...Nice buck. Was he by himself ? I had a herd of 18 doe and fawns cross the road in front of me today. Not a buck in the bunch. After they crossed and piled up trying to get through this 5 wire fence, I remembered my camera. I just called Grandson Owen and told him to be ready at 6AM tomorrow for his last day to take a buck.
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2 points
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2 pointsPersonally, I would rather buy something un-restored unless I know the person that restored it. Not saying you would be a bad restorer, just that I as the buyer would not know. Not everyone fees this way though!
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2 points
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1 pointlost my senses awhile back and bought this wheel horse senior that needs help bad. It started when I called about an add on craigslist from a gentleman selling a wheel horse collection but there were no pictures or any tractors listed. when I called I asked what do you have for sale and he replied what are you looking for Sooo for the heck of it I said a wheel horse senior there was a moment of silence then he said I have one but I was not going to sell it . so we talked for awhile and found out we knew who each other was from the wheel horse show he was looking for some information I had so we traded e-mail address and hung up later I e-mailed him the information we was looking for and told him that if he ever decides to sell the senior to let me know. about two months went by and I received an e-mail from him wondering if I was still interested in buying the senior well one thing lead to another and a deal was made and now I have my work cut out for me too save this one this one will be a learning experience Brian
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1 pointHere's a cool 1930's Ford Doodlebug tractor that I am getting this Sunday! It has a lot of potential for sure. I won't change it a lot but just try to get it operational. I was going to buy this before I got sick earlier in the year but couldn't go get it afterwards. Now that I am getting back to normal I called the old timer to see if he still had it. He said he still has it and was wondering if I still wanted it. We made the deal for the 2nd time and now I can go get it asap! It looks to be a 1930's Ford Model TT 1 and a 1/2 ton truck frame, motor and 4 speed trans. Should be a cool project. Check out the cool distributor among other cool stuff! The owner has a set of front tires, metal seat and a steering wheel too. He also has a rear end for it too but wants another $100 for it. I told him I didn't want the rearend.
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1 point
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1 pointSome days it all comes together. I spent a good morning with Owen watching woodpeckers and scoping 4 doe, but all we have left is Owen's buck tag. Had to take him to a basketball game at noon..his team lost bad. Then back to the woods for the evening. One doe appeared right at dark and we could see another deer back in the shadows. We ran out of light before we could ID that one. Oh well we'll uncase the smokepole after Christmas.
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1 pointWho knew... were industry firsts, with the ol' nut roasters, then followed 'em up with some bun warmers too.
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1 pointIt helps to save old parts.My snow blower is a 36 inch auger and by adding a extra wing I now cut 46 inches wide. I had the extra parts off a junk blower. With a 1200 foot drive way it has worked great even in deep snow. Its mounted on a 520 H so it has the power behind it.
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1 point
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1 pointWell that so called gag of yours bout made me upchuck,,, Now if you Jim ... decide to start a SEC thread I would hope that you would first negotiate with them SEC members and make sure they would offer better prices to potential buyers for us, from Ohio to Nebraska.
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1 pointIs your battery connected as a negative ground?? Here is what I found: http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/17738-help-with-a-starter-generator/ 'motobreeder', on 02 Nov 2012 - 7:18 PM, said: If it's a generator, yes. If it's a starter-generator, no. A starter-generator is self-polarizing when you engage the starter.
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1 point
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1 pointYou regulars around here know my tractor & what's been done to it . 1972 Raider 10 Fluids replaced New HD belts Carb rebuilt & throttle shaft done BN tires & wheels blasted & painted Deck gone through & blasted / val spared . No smoke / oil usage . Runs perfect Cosmetically just "cleaned up" So where would you guys start dollar wise ? Thanks fellers , Gene.
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1 pointCombined, would that be 1 horse or a horse and a 1/2? Looks good. Rob
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1 point
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1 pointWe had about 6 inches with the Thanksgiving Nor'easter here. The crack meteorologists at the WeatherUnderground.org, The Ntaional Weather Service, NOAA, WNEP, WBRE, WPSU, Accuweather and everyone else including old ladies with an arthritic weather predicting big toe stated we would get 1 to 3 inches then a dusting to an inch last night. Well now............ I plowed 4 inches off the driveway before I went to work on Thursday morning and when I came home from work i took another 5 inches off of it at 9PM Thursday night! Then drove through an inch on it this morning! Heavy, wet and slippery! Nice pics!
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1 pointSweet tank,,,,,,,sweet. Good medicine right? ALL of my ponies have Glens handiwork on them. Top notch. Glenn
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1 point
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1 pointDang, John..I am just outside of Bel Air, MD and gas is 2.59/gal and diesel is 2.99/gal...lucky to have it go down but they are still making billions off of us each year...scumbags! I feel sorry for people who are self-employed and have to drive diesel trucks/equipment all day...It's really hard on the operator-owned guys.
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1 pointHere is a check valve just before the fuel pump on my D-160. I also use clear fuel line so that I can see if there is fuel in the line and how well the fuel is moving to the carburetor. I also no longer use fuel with ethanol which is not good for the diaphragms in the older vacuum and mechanical fuel pumps. I did buy a couple of electric fuel pumps from Amazon for a couple of other tractors. The pumps are Airtex E8016S Electric Fuel Pumps that pump at about 2 to 4 psi. I have not installed one yet but I have a hard starting C-81 that should get one this weekend. The electric pumps are probably the best solution if you want quick starts and are not worried about keeping the original pump style.
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1 pointgot primer on the bonnet of the ranger, that means that i need to start stripping some more of the ranger to prime and paint james
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1 pointThose discs (and small garden plows) are always very popular items for sale at swap meets !
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1 pointThe disc pictured would be a nice one to restore, the newer models not so much. I agree with bmsgaffer, sell it as is.
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1 pointWell as usual Ian it looks great so far. can't wait to see more. You have some amazing skills.
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1 pointWell chaps, no going back now To stick the axles back together, I starting with a bit of notching.. Like so.. Not quite the perfect fit but better to notch out not enough material than take out too much at this stage.. Using one of the old fashioned thick cutting discs as a grinding disc I could remove a little metal at a time and keep it flat.. Until I had a perfect notch.. The overlap is 1 inch by the way.. That's a much better fit To make sure the welds had something to really bite into and fill up all the edges of the joins very deeply V'd. Time to start welding, but it wasn't me who did the welding!! As Nigel's boy Karl is a coded welder and he happened to be about today I asked him if he would be kind enough to weld my axles up for me.. And a grand job he made of it too.. Thanks Karl A finished pair of half shafts The plan was to shrink fit some sleeves over the join but as Karl knows what he is doing with a welder and the extra heat caused by shrink fitting then welding a sleeve could well weaken the shafts, the sleeves will be staying off..
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1 pointThank you very much Sir Thanks Horse46, yeah it is a bit of a mad build but that's what makes it all the more fun I bet your thinking about fitting an old Moto Guzzi lump in a Wh now Thanks Fabricator. Morning all, the tale of Why Not's chassis continues with some more metal being added on Monday.. The front of the engine cradle had some mounts welded on, the small holes need to be drilled out a bit so I can weld some crush tube in, then they will be ready for bolts. A couple of diagonal strengtheners. This small bit of box will be the front body tub mounts. I think the chassis is starting to look quite good now Which has got me around to thinking that's it's about time I got the axle narrowing finished and narrowed the axles... Which is why I spent a lot of yesterday getting my lathe all bolted down and up and running Cutting/cooling fluid is pumped from this Ford screen washer bottle as it has been for years.. But this time the pump is powered by a model railway controller thingy, ideal for changing the speed of the flow If all goes to plan tomorrow I might even get both axles done.... But to tide you over here's my latest "Why Not" video..
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1 pointEvening chaps, after a busy few months sorting out the 6x6, the shows and car problems work on "Why Not" has started again After a much needed clean-up in the shack the rest of the Reliant axle was stripped down.. All the brake gubbins was removed from the axles.. The steel bar behind the axle is what I will be making the sleeves out of. One side of the axle housing cleaned up and unneeded brackets removed... I may or may not reuse the outer axle mounts, so they will stay on for now until I decide. Then after a chat with Nigel about how "Why Not" should look when it's finished, I found myself armed with a craft knife, a can of silver polish, and an old sock!! And polished up a bit of one of the rocker covers to see how it looked! I fear a "full on" custom paint job may be in order These are the original engine mounts cut from the bike frame, the trouble is that's what they look like... But the thick walled tube bit will come in handy for making my own mounts.. So I cut them out and cleaned them up.. Now for a bit of thinking... Known as wheels.. Even though Doug very kindly sent me down a pair of 12" wheels that bolt straight to the Reliant axle (Thanks again Doug) I just can't shake the picture in my head of "Why Not" running WH wheels at the back.. Which brings me back to the problem of the Reliant axle being a 4 bolt 4" pcd, like this Kitten wheel.. And of course a Wh wheel has a 5 bolt 4 1/2" pcd.. With the measuring caliper divider thingys set at 4" apart you can see the problems with how close the new holes would be to the old, and also the new holes would end up too close to the er.. Big hole in the middle of the wheel.. Another problem is the Wh wheels are not what you call flat in the middle and any 4 bolt pcd pattern would clash with the ups and downs of the wheel.. Making a new wheel center with the right pcd would be quite easy on my lathe... The problem would be cutting the center out of the WH wheel accurately as it's way too big for my lathe.. Until I was sitting with a smoke and a coffee pondering the problem and I happened to glance at the rear wheels on my WH 312... It will take a bit of working out but I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to make a 12hp Kohler powered lathe So the new plan is to cut the center out the Wh wheels and replace them with my own made centers