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I was recently sent this ad from a fellow euro member Simon Cole (Landsurveyor) . It is from a small holder magazine announcing the introduction of the new RJ58/59 to the UK market. The article is also dated 1959 & shows some nice photographs

just got this to replace my gt 1142. the gt has served me very very well for the last two years but i wanted to upgrade. so ive been looking for awhile and came across this one only about 20 minutes away! so i went ahead and got her. now it didnt come with any attachments but i am going to use the deck off the gt. also, i put my plow, chains and weights on it for this winter. i think it will do very well and hopefully earn its keep. now my future plans are to get new front tires for it, a 48 inch mower deck and maybe some paint and new seat. ive already fallen in love with this thing. just hope it can be as good if not better than the gt. anybody that has a mower deck for sale, please let me know. id like to find one soon so i can have it all ready for this spring. let me now what ya'll think!

Here's a few goodies. An early 60's seat cover. Mirror. And a copper and sterling silver keychain Mrs Funengineer made for me. Sent from my tractor seat.

Interestingly, my first thought was roll-over, or a busted frame. I had taken a quick look earlier in the week to see if the plate was cracked, and never even noticed the missing bolts. However, in my defense, the entire area was so packed with oil and grass clippings that it was a bit difficult to see. I noticed the shiny heads on the lower bolts, but didn't even think about the fact that they were undersized. So, I now surmise that the bolts vibrated lose. I've never seen that before. The upper bolts stayed in, but the lower bolts came completely out. In his haste to make a temporary repair, the previous owner attempted to replace the lowers, but now that the shifting of the plate caused the upper holes to become egg-shaped, the lower holes didn't line up and 1/4" was the only size that would fit into the holes. Since the lower bolts screw into a flange on the transmission case, a long bolt could be put through the plate and flange, then a nut put on the back. After some more time passed, the uppers worked completely out, leaving the situation that I discovered. I had to replace the drive belt due to a large chunk being missing, and the alignment looks fine. As soon as I get another chance to work on it, I am going to replace the cam plate and cam, then work my way forward to the motion control lever, tightening or replacing until I have smooth motion.

If you're bored this winter it would be a good short term project to turn your shop into a shop, if you haven't already. If anyone here has turned something into equipment I'd love to see it. The big grinder no has a little brother. This one had quit and we wanted an 8" so we got one of those. Seems all that was wrong with the 6" one was the switch so we ordered another one for it and got it going again. We'll use the 8 for grinding and the 6 for cleaning. Of course they had to match... Here is big brother in case you didn't see it in the other thread -

Thanks Jerry Funny you should bring this up, I was looking at the front of the hood the other day and thought it looked a bit upright and not as mean as I had in mind! Looking at this photo there is enough space between the front of the hood and the engine frame to "lean" the front of the hood inwards at the bottom... You have certainly given me something to think about Duels anyone? Maybe not... A bit too much Progress has been made although it's hard to tell from the next photo.. The axle has been put back together, diff and half shafts installed.. The axle can now be unbolted from the chassis, and the axle mounting place on the chassis has had some reinforcing.. I really need to take some photos! One thing I always pride myself on is doing everything "In house" or even "In workshop", partly because it's nice to be able to say "I made that", and partly because I'd rather spend time making something than part with money So with that in mind yesterday I finally came up with an accurate, safe and strong way I could convert a Wh rear wheel with it's 5 bolt 4 1/2" PCD.. To fit the Reliant's 4 bolt 4" PCD I found this nice length of thick plate hiding on the bottom of a shelf in Nigel's "Handy scrap metal" store.. (Thanks Nigel ) which is enough to make 2 wheel centers from. Let the lathe work start The bad news is this steel is rather hard so it's going to take quite a while to turn each wheel center!

I just ran across this video on youtube and had never seen or heard of this cooking method before and wondered if any of you grillers and party barbeque cooks have ever tried this, Looks pretty interesting and well, different, but it worked. Just curious if anyone here has tried and what you think about it.

For many, the time to winterize has long past. I let the time slip by and am only now getting around to doing it now. I would like to see how many different ways our member do this each year and what products if any they use.

Getting the '90 520-8 up 'n runnin' was and is a joy. Heard some poor stuff 'bout the Onan but, all is fine now. Every time I took the Stallion out to work 'n play, my heart skipped, beat fast, and my anxiety grew to unbelievable levels. Hurt. Too bad I had to ride the Horse with my eyes open. Geeze was I T'd off! I fixed the poor Stallion with Mr. Pettit's wonderful expert assistance. Was like heavens opened and the sun shined on the old '90 520-8, a new life! Glen's medicine is better for me and like a seasoned vet the Horse can now breathe relief while crusin' the property. Thanks Mr. Pettit! I'm goin' to look around your Horse Pharmacy!

I just received my new wheel horse sign from brad (876wheelhorse) in the mail today. I love it it looks good here but the woman don't think so Thanks brad roughly $70 shipped to my door .

thats the only thing I hate about those lights some angles it looks really pink. I actually got with a member here on redsquare and he tore a sign apart and put led lights in it. looks alot better. but price went up alittle and well worth it.

And a special beverage cooler. Sent from my tractor seat.

An interesting concept. Different twist on the norm. Glenn

I'd like to have it just the way it is.

Posted Today, 02:42 PM If you've seen a tractor ad in the past few years, this Kubota ad does a great job of lampooning the typical tractor commercials you're used to seeing. Definitely thought it was pretty funny and well done: Taken from a post on GTTalk: Lots of other Tractor commercials to view there on YouTube

Depends ......I keep up on maintenance on most things I own. Every small engine I own gets seafoam year round. It helps believe me. Ive found in most cases I can put machines away with an extra dose of seafoam in them and be fine come spring. Oil changes are done per hours on my clock so I don't make that a "spring thing". I keep everything lubed from the get go on anything I buy that hasn't been or anything new. A can of spray grease can be your friend. I also will remove in some cases bolt and nuts and neverseize them and reinstall. All new hardware I put on a machine gets that same treatment. Doing this stuff regularly throughout the year makes it easy as rolling it into the shop for the winter. Oil changes, plugs, etc I do based on engine run time. Some I only run a few times a year. Why put a new plug it in every year? So I go by manufacture hour time if its available.

Job well done, your inspiring me to put my new decals on to. Glenn

Geno before I forget, I used the Krylon paint plus primer you suggested for the satin black and it didn't react with the Ace Hardware red. Covered in 2 coats, good stuff . Epoxied the new pto disc in place and reinstalled everything. Put the decals on the hood and fender pan and that pretty well wraps it up for this winter. The rest of the decals will go on next year when I tear the upper dash out to repair a stress crack, reinforce the upper steering shaft bushing and take care of the rest of the detail work. Got to get back on the Suburban so this one is done for now.

I did look at every manual in the files, but I was looking for a complete soft cab like mine. Would've never guessed it was that old or made for the GT 14. I'm going to put it back on the C 160 and do whatever it takes to firm up the frame so the doors work right. No need for it on the GT 14's since one's a gardener/mower, and the other one's got the big plow on it. No kids that'd enjoy using the snow thrower without a cab . . . and I don't have enough kid in me to use a snow thrower without a cab . . . unless the wind is 0 mph. Thanks for the help.

WTG Bob ...Nice buck. Was he by himself ? I had a herd of 18 doe and fawns cross the road in front of me today. Not a buck in the bunch. After they crossed and piled up trying to get through this 5 wire fence, I remembered my camera. I just called Grandson Owen and told him to be ready at 6AM tomorrow for his last day to take a buck.

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Personally, I would rather buy something un-restored unless I know the person that restored it. Not saying you would be a bad restorer, just that I as the buyer would not know. Not everyone fees this way though!

looks like the inlet needle seat Brian

well ive been looking for a while now and i got this 1968 ranger, im so excited to have a round hood, needs some work but a nice score james

I'm always enthralled to look through the pictures that everybody posts as they work on, or restore, or modify their horses. Look at not just the horses and the ideas, but also the shop space it's being done in. I've worked outside, I've worked in borrowed space, Home made space, and now finally ... Since I moved in 2010 ... I have my own shop. Thought that I would share with you all, my space ... Now it's still under construction ... I have more drywall, more Lighting, and more wiring to do. I'm also planning to add to the shop this spring, going 15 feet out the side, to provide places to Store, to do the really nasty tear downs, as well as a media blasting Room and maybe a clean Room for painting small parts? Not sure yet. Anyway Onto Photos!

I'm putting the cart before the horse on this one but I wanted to thank forum member COD (Steve) for loaning me a defective WH418a indicator pcb to develop a repair test fixture. Steve, I will post the full "story" behind the repair but I wanted to let you know how your contribution will make it possible to effectively and economically repair and upgrade indicator boards for WH 300 and 400 series tractors . Many more secrets have been given up as to how the indicator board functions and what the various failure modes are for the individual components on the board. I was able to make modifications to the circuitry to VASTLY increase the reliability of the board assembly. I'm sure the test jig will evolve as I investigate any wiring changes need to accommodate the 300 series tractors. Right now wires are everywhere!

Summer-grade fuel has a different RVP (Reid Vapor Pressure) than winter-grade, it keeps the EPA happy... It costs more also and is part of the reason prices rise around Memorial Day when they switch. Gasoline must have an RVP below 14.7 PSI (pounds per square inch), which is normal atmospheric pressure; if a fuel's RVP were greater than 14.7 PSI, excess pressure would build up in the gas tank, and the fuel could boil and evaporate. Depending on the part of the country, the EPA's standards mandate an RVP below 9.0 PSI or 7.8 PSI for summer-grade fuel. Some local regulations call for stricter standards. Because of these varying RVP standards, up to 20 different types of boutique fuel blends are sold throughout the U.S. during the summer [source: Slate]. Because RVP standards are higher during the winter, winter-grade fuel uses more butane, with its high RVP of 52 PSI, as an additive. Butane is inexpensive and plentiful, contributing to lower prices. Summer-grade fuel might still use butane, but in lower quantities -- around 2 percent of a blend [source: The Oil Drum]. Does your head hurt yet?

WOW looking very nice it sure turned out nice !!

Who knew... were industry firsts, with the ol' nut roasters, then followed 'em up with some bun warmers too.

Imagine how warm your "behind" would be with nuttin but thin sheetmetal and an inch of foam seperating your butt and a K-341!! Mike............

It helps to save old parts.My snow blower is a 36 inch auger and by adding a extra wing I now cut 46 inches wide. I had the extra parts off a junk blower. With a 1200 foot drive way it has worked great even in deep snow. Its mounted on a 520 H so it has the power behind it.

I like that!! I think you could make that even wider if u were to flip the one mounted to the blower around changing the angle? less angle though it might not push it to the auger as well. With that long of a driveway though u might want to try it haha.

Yes, Hort was also involved and Cohort is wanted for questioning.

That's getting pretty serious there.

Well that so called gag of yours bout made me upchuck,,, Now if you Jim ... decide to start a SEC thread I would hope that you would first negotiate with them SEC members and make sure they would offer better prices to potential buyers for us, from Ohio to Nebraska.

Is your battery connected as a negative ground?? Here is what I found: http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/17738-help-with-a-starter-generator/ 'motobreeder', on 02 Nov 2012 - 7:18 PM, said: If it's a generator, yes. If it's a starter-generator, no. A starter-generator is self-polarizing when you engage the starter.

Terry was first, new decals, helped but needed more. Decals are great and of course, the old decals really T'd me off. Not with Terry's fix 'em up Horsey decal set! Not shown in pic, added new donuts and this coming year a new 48" SD deck I just picked up along with a new mule drive. The deck and mule drive were a barn find, now in my barn waitin' on springtime. For winter preparedness a 48" dozer blade goes on.......just in case.... I feel like it.... SS muffler "bling" via eBay...needed the pazzazz!

I will not try to shift on the fly with my SR. I can and do however shift on the fly with my D250.

Combined, would that be 1 horse or a horse and a 1/2? Looks good. Rob

K series or a Mag you can't go wrong. I have a 414-8 and its older version from the late 70's a C-141. Ones a Mag the others K both strong tractors. You got a good one there. Should serve you well and handle just about anything you can throw at it.

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Guess it'll depend on what it'll take to restore it... The more you spend the more you'll have to charge... Just keep it in mind

I found a little time to dismount all the rims and clean them up some. Lots of No. 7 polish... I think they are gonna be just fine...

Assuming you have checked everything above: Definitely check the hydro filter. DO NOT use an engine oil filter. Heat the trans/pump for a long time (several hours) with a good electric disc heater (no flame) or magnetic block heater. 20 or 30 weight oil at 24 degrees F does not like to move in a hurry. Your pump/hydro assembly has cavities and journals that are much smaller than your typical engine- And one of the reasons it makes tremendous pressure. You need to get that stuff good and warm before it will really flow everywhere it needs to be. Keep the rear wheels just off the ground like before. Work your pump back and forth and work the lift up and down. Any time you bleed air from a hydro system you want to keep those tires off the ground to prevent any additional/premature wear. You won't hurt the system by moving the components (with air still in the lines) as long as you are free-wheeling and there is no load on the machine/tires. Again, assuming you have checked all else from previous posts (clogged suction line, etc) I would say the filter and cold fluid could be the culprit. Not trying to insult you but once you get it figured out and back up to speed make sure you always let that machine warm up, especially so on those frigid days. You would be amazed at how many people and "professionals" take off at full speed before their starter seems to even wind down. If it's hydro it needs to be warm if you want it to last a lifetime. If you bought your new pump from a known member of this site I am fairly certain it is a good working model as they said. The majority of this group are here to help and only want to see you get moving again. Best of luck and please keep posting updates.

I didnt get to see it. I do hope you repost it! Big fan of landscape photography of all varieties. I dont have a horse ornament yet, but I think I should get me one! Geno: need to test out any prototypes!

20hp....Nice!

I don't sell or trade everything that comes my way. There are some things that are near and dear...

Thanks James Yesterday was the day the last bit of the original Wh chassis was removed.. The new chassis certainly looks cleaner without the old rails inside The front end is starting to take shape. The big box across the front will become the new front axle after it has had a change of shape, some strengthening and something added to give it a real Hot rod look Oh... And I found a spare plug yesterday

As if proof was need that I'm doing the right thing with this build, while sitting down with a coffee having a look at the beast from a different angle I noticed a couple of words on one of the front tire's. A close up for you After watching the mower racing on Sunday and seeing how low all the machine were I knew I had to lower "Why Not" a bit to help it stay on all four wheels. As I want to be able to use this machine for also pulling a trailer once in a while and go for the odd drive around the fields, I don't want to go too low, so out came the ruler.. The chassis will be chopped and dropped by 2 1/2 inches, making the chassis 4 1/2 inches off the ground, where the blue mark is on the ruler. The front will also get chopped and dropped just behind the front axle mounting. The body tub will also be chopped and dropped but only by 2 inches. The extra 1/2 inch space created should just be enough to fit a standard Raider fuel tank in it's original place under the hood The back of the body tub will also get a bit more trimming to get the seat as low as possible.. This big old lump is the Honda's final drive unit.. Which I had been thinking of using backwards to get the drive from the bike gearbox to the WH gearbox... Until another part arrived, freshly dug out from Nigel's parts store (thanks Nigel), and thank you to Garry for picking it up for me.. The part in question is this right angled drive thingy from a rotovator I wasn't sure what the gear ratio was as it needed a bit of freeing off, but I'm guessing at a 1 to 1 ratio or very close.. The prop shaft will come in very handy as it allows me to mount the drive thingy where I want and get the output drive lined up with the WH trans