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Wow that thing is really scary, enough to give you real nightmares. Anyway that's enough about the dude in the blue t shirt . Love ya Bob . Take care buddy Regards to MJ

I know ours talks and consumes more!

Yep, you got it right now. The PTO groove closest to the engine is for the mower deck. The outer groove will run things like snow blowers and tillers. Your deck looks very good now. There are several threads on the forum where members have done various things to the underside of their decks to preserve them as mush as possible. Some have used different coatings to prevent corrosion, etc. Perhaps the easiest coating, and certainly the cheapest, is to thoroughly clean the underside every month or so, and slather it down good with used motor oil. Do the same thing at the end of the season when you put the deck up for winter. Won't completely stop deterioration, but will slow it down greatly. And thank you for acknowledging what so many members here do for the rest of us. Too often, some people will "pick the brains", and not even say thanks.

I finally was able to bring home what I feel is the ultimate garden tractor. Ever since getting my 518xi, I have been searching for a 523Dxi. Passed on a couple, missed a few but finally got a fantastic deal from a JD dealer in VA. I already have had offers to resell at a profit before I brought it home! It is a 1998 523Dxi with 605 hours that has a 52" mower deck, brand new snow cab, snow blade (with spare edge) that has been barely used, a pair of turfs, two pair of filled ags, clevis hitch, disc harrow, and rear grading blade. And a picture of: "Poncho", "Cisco", and now "Paladin."

AND HE WAS NO MATCH FOR "THE DUKE"

On Thursday we needed to put the best dog ever to sleep. Stout was my loyal companion who stood by my side day and night. Working from home, he and I spent more time together than anyone else and I will miss him dearly. But I am a dog person and feel empty without one. Today we went to the SPCA in Westchester County NY and found a beautiful baby girl Lab. They said she was pure, but looks to me like a mix. Doesn't matter, she's adorable, playful and sweet. We welcomed "Raven" to our home today, and look forward to a long time with her.

Yeah Craig, some of my favorite photos are of the Rodent on the Horse. She is my little darling, and I love her to pieces. Her mother (my daughter), is such a kill-joy though. Overly protective, she got on to me for riding Addie around the yard too fast. Was running just above idle in 3rd high, just fast enough to bounce around a little. Rodent has a blast. Of course I hold onto her pretty tightly on my lap, make very sure she doesn't touch anything hot, and keep the keys in my pocket. She has almost figured out how to start the thing.

Saw this at a local show this weekend it has the RJ35 channel frame with unidrive tranny,I was told or read it somewhere that W.H. made a conversion kit,thought it was a pretty cool tractor....

That's a good question. I will be curious on the answer my self. I am refreshing my 1964..854. I did the wheels the linen. Glenn

I first want to thank all the admins, supporters, members, and all of you guys that go on here and take time out of your day and answer questions and try to help out where needed! Without this forum and its vast knowledge of info I wouldn't even had tried doing all the stuff I had already done to my Wheel Horse. So far I have adjusted the carb, (it runs so much leaner now!), oil/filter change, took off 60" deck and scraped off the sludge and decayed grass. Changed the blades, replace spark plugs, greased all fittings, and installed Matts foot control. It works great! I thought not bad for a guy who didn't even know how to take off the park lever at first! here are some pics: Can you guys do me a favor and look over how I put the drive belt back on? I knew I should have taken a pic before I took it off, but something just doesn't sound right after I put it back on. Maybe its just me though. Thanks again for everyone's support!

Getting any clearer now... on what type of oil to choose?

I strongly concur with Craig's post above. There is nothing wrong with making your own lining, and if money is REAL tight, that is the way to go. That said, Bob Maynard is looking to go back into production of these linings since his agreement/contract with Tractor World is over. For my part, I try to purchase most of my parts from the members here on the forum. The benefit of doing such is manifold: 1. The quality is uniformly great. These guys make their products for their own tractors, as well as for sale. 2. None of them are getting rich doing it, but derive a tremendous pleasure in furthering the hobby. A little side cash made is certainly deserved. 3. The prices are very hard to beat. This goes along with number 3., I have never seen any "gouging", or inflated prices. They do try to make a little though, as rightly they should for their efforts. 4. They are forum members, and great people to deal with. NO ONE, have I ever have heard, got screwed by them. I am a 30 plus year toolmaker, and can make about any part on one of these tractors on my own. Outside of sheet metal, there isn't anything that I would find terribly difficult, only time consuming. That said, when it comes to the time when I will need a new lining, if Bob is back into production, I will get it from him. Ain't worth the time and headache to make it myself, and the price is dirt cheap. Hell, I own a complete machine shop, and will still buy it from Bob. My two Lincolns worth.

Can't be... I'm thinkin' our's has a bigger maw.

The weather has been good in the north of England today so I took the opportunity to do a bit of painting. The rear fender has had a lot of work done and a bit of sanding and primer was called for Had to improvise somewhere for drying Rear transmission all ready to put back together.

Belt shouldn't have that twist to it

I have been singing the praises of a Napa 1410 Hydro filter for a couple of years. I am not badmouthing OEM Toro, but not all of the members here have a Toro dealer nearby. Plus not all dealers (including mine) stock the Toro filter. It gives members another option and there will be no need to hesitate to buy a Napa (Wix) filter. My local Napa stocks the 1410 or can get it within hours if needed as opposed to over a week from the dealer. I cut open the Toro once. Wish I had pics.If I remember right the Toro had less pleats and a piece of tin (Like Fram) as opposed to the real spring in the Napa 1410. If another member removes a Toro filter maybe they can cut it open and post pics. If I ever run across another one I'll cut it open and post them here.

We used to sell and had great luck with it. I'm not sure if they make this anymore as I haven't seen any of it around. I had heard for a long time to always use the same oil. So I would go to Wally World and one time they'd have Texaco, and the next time they'd have something else. So I started using the Wal-mart oil, because I figured they would always have that. I'm not sure how good it is yet, but I haven't had any problems with it and I've used it for a few years. I'm not sure who makes it for Wal-mart, but it has the same rating as all the other brand name oils, so that is why I've started using it and so far I haven't had any problems. I've seen some other writers have mentioned Quaker State. A long time ago we carried "Quaker City" oil, which was made from recycled oil. I wonder if anyone else has heard of this or oil made from old oil? Another thing about Quaker State is that they used to make "Golden Chassis" grease, which I really liked, I wish i knew where I could buy some more of it or an equivalent. We have a lot of rust issues in New England, so I coat a lot of parts with grease and the Golden Chassis seemed to stay on stuff better than anything I've ever used. I've enjoyed reading about this topic as oil is the blood of all our engines! C-85

Hello Mike. What you have there is a 1999 270-H Lawn and Garden Tractor, The engine is a Kohler Command CV20S. C = Command Series, V = Vertical Crankshaft, 20 = Horse Power, S = Electric Strart.

i have done the Onan carbs both on and off the engines. On the engine gets most of the problems solved most of the time. Even if you are only having problems at high rpm, the idle circuits feed the carb throughout the rpm, so its best to look at every area of the carb. most of the junk that i have removed with tip cleaners, carb cleaner, sea foam or other cleaners wouldn't remove. so you need to check all the small holes and inside the brass tubes that they are clear. there is a tube or tubes (depending on whether its an emissions carb) that is pressed into the top of the carb, you will see it when you pull the top off, the little holes along the sides of the tube get blocked, the end is supposed to be blocked off on one of them (the older non emissions carbs with one tube is supposed to be blocked on the end) so don't worry about that. this is the top of an emissions carb..... also the idle tube that screws in to the main body of the carb needs to be removed and cleaned. this tube has holes along the sides and at the end, you should be able to see right through it from end to end and sideways through the holes...... heres a pic of the idle tube that needs to be unscrewed from the main body, this one is just sitting in the hole with the threads exposed.... make sure the fuel bowl is completely clean, anything there is going to be sucked up by the main jet. you will see that at the bottom of the bowl to the front of the carb as it sits on the engine. this can be removed by removing the plug in the side of the carb and then using a tight fitting flat blade the jet can be unscrewed. i have found junk behind the main jet in those passages too. they can be flushed by squirting carb cleaner down those holes in the top (see approx 3/16 size holes next to idle tube in above pic) and through the holes where the idle and main are. main jet plug location, main jet is back in behind this hole on the inside of the fuel bowl.... watch your eyes and skin, the carb cleaner can shoot back at you on occasions.... heres my first dealings with a p216 with the nikki carb, a 95 pre emissions one, there is a better pic of the idle tube removed and the holes to clean.....

This is the best oil lol

Jerseyhawg - nice looking set of wheels and tires! Mine have a long way to go ... Zieg72 - At least now I know that my 310-8 has the correct color wheels!

Unplug the connector going to the motor and see if she will start. If that doesn't work give her a shot of carb or starting fluid. Unplugging will disconnect the whole electrical from the motor except start. Carb cleaner will confirm fuel

Howdy the George. Being I am in Indiana, wouldn't have a clue about UK parts suppliers. That said, I think I know who might. Do a member search, or just poke around the website, and look up Neil, a very fine fellow, and one of our moderators here. Other very knowledgeable folks from the UK are meadowfield, and Stigian. All three know their stuff when it comes to Horse, all three are in the UK, and all three are more than willing to help you get the parts you need, at the best price, and highest quality. Neil was online earlier today, and may see your post and respond. The other guys spend a lot of time in the Euro Horse section. If nothing else, send them a PM.

Back at ya!

A friend of mine informed me last night of a 953 he found in a boneyard in Lucasville Ohio. We got together this morning to check it out, and....needless to say...I brought it home for $250.00! The wiring is a little messed up, but nothing major. It came with the deck and a turning plow off of who knows what! All the belt guards are there as well as the oil bath breather! Even had the original owners manual! The engine sounds wonderful, no smoke or rattles! Going to have to do something about the Chevrolet steering wheel someone put on it. Lol. I'm tickled to death! Always wanted a 953! Its still sinking in that I now have one! Maybe the 701 won't be so lonley now! Happy Horsing everyone! ;-)

That's kinda what I meant. What the heck is SB oil doin on the shelf ???? Those older engines pre 51 ish used babbit bearings and I think you have to be careful of what you put in those.

Mike, to attain a good minimum lifespan I can't see where running detergent vs. non-detergent oil matters in the long run as long as the oil is changed every 25 hours or less. You and I both know these old Kohlers run for decades when they have recieved even just the basic of maintenance. Time has proven this. For my own personal preferance I have been sold on LE for years. I seriously encourage you to give it a try, and see what you think for yourself.

That deck looks great!

stops the hubs sliding in, should they ever want to. Hides where the PO beat the crap out of them. Looks industrial and cool....

Bill, you are the only one who has ever done this. Remember "Lefty/Loosey & Righty/Tighty" Seriously though I'm sure you are not the only one. I recommend you take Matt's advise listed above. That should do it.

I like, berry much so. There is something very "tractor" about those models.

Yes the teeth are familiar! What squonk says makes

Welcome to RS! do you mean for the deck? or this?

Didn't manage to get it together, but it is all painted and shiny now Hubs painted too Insides all clean and shiny, new seals here, just a gasket to make.

That's where I leaning at the moment. I took off the flywheel shroud and I could wiggle that side as well, but when I did, Brittany didn't see the bell side move. I am thinking broken crank as well at this point. I don't have the time to tear it apart at the moment to confirm, but that's what I am thinking.

I got a little wheel horse like that from bowtie guy when I bought a 704 from him he made me take it I didn't really want it but know I have it running and my kids love bashing around the yard with it and there trailer trailer hook to it who would of thought

I know where there is an NOS KWIK-WAY loader for it.

OPTIONS: 1...Take the muffler off of the engine...then you wouldn't hear (here) the squeak. 2...Have spouse or kids do the mowing. 3...Ditch the Wheelhorse and pickup a good push mower. 4...Use hard plastic (nylon? ) wheels with new shoulder bolts. 5...Pour 2" concrete slab over entire mowing area. 6...Just don't do it. I chose option # 4.

Years ago I heard similar things about Pennsylvania oils. But on the other had I also heard it had more sulfur in it and left deposits. I never took any of it seriously. I got hooked on Valvoline in a bit of an odd way. Back in the early 70's they had cool rebates. Stuff like tackle boxes, etc. So I started buying it because of the rebates. Over the years I learned that it was doing a great job protecting my motors. For example, I had a straight 6 in a Ford pickup that I had bought new. At 160k miles I had to replace the rocker arm cover gasket. The rocker arms, springs, etc. all looked brand new after all those miles. In reality it was probably because of the meticulous care I give my vehicles and it would have been the same with most any oil. But I had used Valvoline for all those miles so I knew it was doing as well as any brand could have. The bottom line is that proper maintenance is far more important than oil brand. The quality of motor these days far surpasses anything that you could get when the majority of the Wheel Horses discussed here were new.

Looks like you may need to relocate the clutch pedal a little.

With the diff locker finished and the casings painted I got distracted yet again This time with the intent of getting the backend complete and painted I thought I'd make a 3 point hitch. Here's the build pics, firstly top link and lift arm pivot bracket Lower link arm axle bracket Lift arms All together

Who will get the most upset........... Wheel Horse fans for me welding a cub fender to Wheel Horse or cub fans for me cutting a cub seat pan and welding it to a Wheel Horse? It was rusted out below the seat anyhow.It will be red soon.

I see a Florida wheelhorse meet coming...... All five of us, lol

Well I did some measuring and found my rear width from outside of tire to outside of tire was too narrow for my plow blade fender to work. I took my wheels off and cut the centers out and ground everything smooth with a flap wheel.I had two rim centers from two old wheels that I had saved for this very reason.I took the wheels and flipped them around because they are not the same inner diameter all the way through.I pushed in the centers and set them for 3.5" backspacing giving me a 6.5" lip on the front.Being the inside diameter is larger than the back,I will be able to use my wheelhorse hubcaps and they will set way back in the rim. I still had to narrow the plow 4" to get the tires to sit where I wanted them as to the edge of the fender. The part I cut off was rusted anyways so I didn't ruin a perfect plow..I hope I make John(wallfish) proud as his idea was fantastic.Here is where she sits now until I get it mounted.Please don't mind the messy shed.I am in the process of many things with cleaning up being one of them.

Nice find and it was saved from the scrap heap! Here's a cool rare Brochure for the Walk Away!

'75 C-160-8 Model # 1-0381 Serial # 101843 16 HP Kohler Model # K=341S Serial # 8182086

Completely original and intact 1973 10 HP 8 Speed Wheelhorse Tractor (aka, Raider 10 No-Name) Model Number: 1-0365