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On July 4th, my wife and I drove from Richmond VA to Freeburg, PA to pick up a "restored" RJ-58. I have attached a few pictures below. This is the wife's tractor and she picked it out. I am going to add a tool box and rear fenders to the tractor. It's also missing the belt guard. I sent an email to Joe, and he is out of stock right now. Hope he gets some more in stock soon. I don't want the wife to ride it until I get the belt guard on. I think the wife is turning into WH nut too!

One of our members here, NorthForker was getting rid of his 312-8, so I loaded up the kids and took a nice scenic road trip to Long Island. I have to tell you, this was my first time in this area of LI and I have to say it's really nice. Beautiful farms, great farm stands and just lovely countryside PLUS the ocean is just minutes away! The machine is in great shape, everything is tight. There's an engine vibration which needs to be addressed. When running, the PTO will wobble, when I engage it it smoothes considerably, but there's still a vibration. I am not sure if it's an engine bearing, the PTO or drive pulley. I took the PTO Bell off and that is in perfect condition, but I didn't remove the clutch or race to check the condition of the drive pulley. I have already cleaned it so it actually looks quite nice, the black on the hood could use a touch up and of course some decals from Terry! In the mean time, I'll be continuing to check that vibration and decide what the final disposition will be, it starts up beautifully, so I hope it's easily fixable. So here it is, a 1995 312-8

Was in Illinois visiting family for the 4th this past weekend, and took a whirlwind trip over to southern Michigan and back to pick up a tractor and attachment. Wish I would have had time to arrange to meet up with some members since I know there are a bunch of you over in that area, but it was already busy being a holiday weekend and I needed to get back for a family cookout in the evening. Anyone live near this dealer? It's at the edge of Bridgman on the corner of Lemon Creek Road and Red Arrow Highway. Just curious, as obviously the old Wheel Horse sign on the left caught my eye. Or anyone live by Nyes Apple Barn? Stopped for some fresh produce at Dutch Market Farm in South Haven... fresh blueberries and sweet cherries.... can you say yummy!!!??? Also stopped at Lemon Creek Winery just outside Berrien Springs for a few more souvenir flavors to take home. I knew Michigan had some good fruit, but have never been there to experience it first hand. As a kid grown up on orchard fruit I know there's nothing better in the world than fresh fruit. Very jealous of what you south western Michigan guys have readily at hand! I had never heard of the area being such a wine producer though.... going to have to bring the wife back for a few days and check it out more thoroughly when we can. One last memory I'll share from the trip.... at the stop when I met and got my new tractor and attachment was the parking lot of a good old Mickey D's.... you know fast food restaurants don't allow walk-ups to the drive thru.... guess that doesn't apply when the vehicle itself is walking?

Sounds like you have it figured out. Yes, sometimes that is all it takes is a few pieces of wire stuck in the right pace, Glad you found it and figured it out...you should be good now. Let us know if that works for you.

Don't drill a hole in it. It already has a vent hole in it somewhere. Find the hole and clean it if it is clogged.

I think I found the culprit there was some metal bits in the guide that the fork rides in on the deep side of the trans axle i took a drill bit and ran it in revers in the hole and what looked like pieces of an old wire brush came out it seams to be shifting fine now. Also I had opened the tabs all the way out on my belt gaurd and I wast disengaging the pulley when I mashed in the clutch. Still haven't got them set going to try it when I get off work this evening, thanks for all the help every one.

The guy in Craig's video has it all wrong!!! Here's how to do it!

skrusins may be onto something, I had a problem sort of like this and a new gas cap was the cure. However, the first thing I always do is put in a new Champion H-10 plug, lots of times that is all that is needed. Another thing that helps is to run some "Seafoam" fuel conditioner in the fuel. If pulling the choke helps then it is starving for fuel; could be the previous owner has the float set too low. If pulling the choke makes it worse the float could be too high. These are a few things you can try and then let us know what you observe.

So one of the things that I have been searching for besides a loader, is a snow cab. After snow blowing this year and looking like frosty . Then watching horse fixer in his Tim the tool man Taylor snow chucker..... I knew I needed to have one. So , I searched everywhere and coming up empty, I finally struck gold at the show. I came up to the show early Saturday and sitting in one of the pavilions was a snow cab. I was surprised it had not been sucked up for the price. It was a little dirty/moldy. I also was unsure if it was missing any frame parts. The big problem is the missing door. So tonight I drug out the power washer and mean green. I scrubbed away with a brush , rinsed and repeat. To my surprised , it came out looking like new. There are no rips and the vinyl is still very soft. I then moved to the frame. A few pieces are a little rusty but will clean up nice. I was missing two pieces. The support off the dash and the piece that goes from the inner foot rest to the inner windshield mount. So I started bending up some steal and got this far tonight. I think once painted , no one will know it was not original. So all in all , had fun for the few hours I was at the show. Got to meet up with Bill Jenkins for a little , and meet Matt with the hydro pedal. Very nice guy. Got a few things I needed. I put up a wanted add, I am hoping someone out there might have a left side door for sale. Maybe someone with a beat up cab but the door is savable. If not , I will try and make one but its not ideal. Anyone know if I can still buy a door? PS , I would love to have a way to identify some of you guys at the show. I feel weird walking up and saying , Hey , is that you.... lol Kyle

Found this geezer lurking in a book. Anyone recognise him ? Should be quite easy , I'm sure ,,Maggie may ,, know how he is

Can someone give me a ballpark range for what an original Wheel Horse seat for a C-120 would be worth? The one I am looking at is in very good to excellent condition. It would probably only need the metal repainted. There appear to be no rips, tears or worn spots.

Couple of things here... 1) Is the rear hitch still in place, if so, could you post a pic...we need to see more of the tractor prior to dating it. 2) The original motor can be narrowed down by where the oil drain hole is drilled in the frame... its difficult to see in your pic where the hole has been drilled.... drilled in the center it was most likely a Kohler K90... offset drilled from the center of the frame... it could have been either a Clinton 1200 or A1200 3) Fiberglass hoods would be a 55 model only and of that only maybe a 100 tractor received them... not to mention no one has ever seen one in the flesh... and thats from the RJ Gods themselves. 4) Keep in mind that parts are swip swapped over the years so just because you have a part doesn't mean its original...

Looks great Kyle.....Nothing beats the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

And my Cobalt

That is not the original engine. It would of had a kohler k90 or a clinton 1200.

I'd say 57 as it has the 4 bolt hood and the new style steering wheel

Check and make sure the gas cap is vented

Sounds like it's in need of a rebuild. I wouldn't push it if it has a knock...never ends well.

a thanx for that !!!!!!!!!

Earl L. McEvers built this custom road grade in 1980. It has an International 1 1/2 to 2 HP hit and miss engine, hydraulics and a hydraulic pump run by belt, Wheel Horse rims and tires. David Ralph and I visited him this morning in Whitehall, Illinois to see this machine. The video shows this think in action and says it all about the inventiveness of Earl McEvers! Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&list=UU86fcdbU7QyIjmZSQTp8Obg&v=GJ4Qp8f8m-A

I guess I need to find some new friends.

Wow !! It always amazes me what some some guys can build.

That is real cool and Earl is one cool cat! Thanks for posting.

Have you tried removing the shifter and looking into the hole to see if the rear shift rail (2nd and 3rd gear) is in neutral (centered in the hole) when it is locked in reverse? Reverse and 1st is the front shift rail. Garry

Thank you all for the Welcome to this forum. Yes, this Charger came in the original excellant condition as shown. It has not been restored. I bought it quickly when I saw it without hearing the motor run or have the hydrostatic tested. I really got lucky with this purchase as everything is working. I just finished mowing part of our lawn after supper tonight and it sure likes to gulp the gas. I prefer to run non-oxy fuel in all my small engines so that does cost extra. The mower does a pretty good job cutting. So I am very happy with my purchase of this Charger 12! Also, I recommend wearing ear muffs to cut down on the racket! G.

With the diff locker finished and the casings painted I got distracted yet again This time with the intent of getting the backend complete and painted I thought I'd make a 3 point hitch. Here's the build pics, firstly top link and lift arm pivot bracket Lower link arm axle bracket Lift arms All together

I cut two rubber strips from a bicycle inner tube and stretched them over the metal pieces that press against the nylon block that the lever moves and now the lever stays in position. I was able to ride the tractor around for 10 or 15 minutes and even cut some grass.

This is a big thank you to Steveasaurus for the Texas road house ribs that he bought me, This meal kept me going for 3 days Cheers Steve

I don't know...with all the information you gave us here...I think I would scrap it.

Progress being made.... Today I bent up the frame pieces for the missing door on my cab. I am pretty impressed with the turn out. Last week I received the original material for the door and window from the cab company. Sometime this week I will be making a trip to my mothers to sew on the fabric. What do you think so far

I was just looking at the Commando 8 in the shed Thursday with my 10 year old grandson. He says it's not too bad, and that we should be able to fix it up the next time he comes to spend the night. Really! I guess these kids today know everything. Although, as slow as my leg is taking to heal, I just might have the Commando done before the leg.

Sure, while not your tractor the principle is the same. Walfish just did this at the show for WheelHorse 57 on his horse. Here are the pictures. In the pictures, you can see the rods that are bent and attached to the engine and frame that force the slack toward the engine pulley, and thus the belt stops rotating when the clutch is depressed. Wallfish took 2 screwdrivers and used the shanks to determine where the rods should be. This take 2 people...one operating the clutch (with the engine running and the trans in neutral) and the other person holding the screwdrivers above and below the belt...acting like the guides that are on the inside of your guard. Your tabs should operate like the 2 screwdrivers. Does this make since?

Everything sounds like you did it right. That gear that is on it's own shaft is the reverse idler...and the bevel needs to face up when installed. When you shift into reverse, the 1st and reverse fork gear engages the reverse idler...thus reversing the direction of all the other gears. Like Bob said...the belt guard enables the belt to stop rotating by forcing slack toward the engine pulley when the clutch is depressed. If your belt is not stopping, this may be your problem. The backside of the guard has some guides attached that direct the belt...these guides may also be mounted to the frame or engine block. I think there are usually 2 or 3 guides. Regardless, the guard has to be mounted for the clutch thingy to work. Let us know. Thank you for typing all that information...that really helps us try to figure out what is right and wrong and helps us make other suggestions.

You must have the belt cover on to be able to fully stop the belt.

how does the ball look on the end of the shift lever? and are all the gear teeth in good condition? is the two ball bearings spring and rod for the shift forks detente assembled correctly? Brian

wheelhorse66...I was not mad at all. You have to remember that when you start a thread, there are a ton of people that want to contribute and offer help...also, a lot of people will read your thread. If the wrong information gets put in your thread, because not enough information was given, it can lead to confusion and even someone going out and buying the wrong parts. I would not have even posted in your thread, because rmaynard had already answered your question, but came in to qualify what RacinBob posted. wheelhorse66...I just went back through the transmission section and re--read all of your threads. For one thing, you never seem to put in all the information needed to get an answer right off the bat...almost in every thread, someone is asking you for more information. For another thing, you never seem to come back in and say if the information you received, for nothing, helped...nor have you ever said "Thank You for your help". I am not attacking you...it is just that a little manners would go a long way.

I don't think Steve was mad, just a little annoyed. So many people ask questions that are vague, and don't include sufficient information to answer properly. The folks here on this forum really do want to help, but those of us that ask the questions need to make sure we give as much information as we can to assist them. You know it is a 4-speed, but the gurus here don't know what type of 4-speed it is. And yes, it does matter what tractor it is in, as that information can help to pin down the tranny type. Again, I don't think anyone is mad, they just want as much information as possible so that they can accurately help. Quite frankly, i am surprised that they are as accommodating and polite as they are. I see so many questions such as: "Does anyone know where I can get the manual for (insert tractor or attachment model here). I just inherited it from Aunt Millie?" Invariably, the answer is a link to the Manuals section for the specific machine, instead of: "Why don't you scroll down to the documents section on the main page and look it up yourself you dolt!"

I am going to throw up a few more then I will stop!!! I promise!!! Above you will notice a picture of an Elec-Trak A-65 with No cover, it's a real bummer that this has happened. This unit belongs to Carl who was bringing it over to the show Wednesday evening and the cover decides to leave. I am asking if anyone might happen to have one of these to where we could get the piece remade in fiberglass. You would really make Carls day if we could find one to have remade. Thanks ahead. Heres the last set for now. I believe Steve might have some also. It helps when you remember to add pics!!!

This years National Threshers Reunion for 2014 is now complete. Everyone had a good time with No rain this year!!! I have snapped a few different pictures so here we go. Enjoy!!

Here is what it looks like with just the pulley installed

Kenb and I met up after work today to go for a nice ride on our boats. I took video however not able to post it in the format it was. Here is a pic of mine sitting at the dock at a nice little place called Down the Hatch which is the only on the lake bar and grill. We stopped for a little supper...

It's probably not the same type of generator..and i'm certainly not the best to explain things in English But maybe you can do something similiar to what i did when the 10HP Briggs broke a rod on my generator. Mine also has a tapered crank and a long bolt thru the armature / rotor. I found a bolt a little big bigger than the hole in the end of the rotor ( where the long bolt goes ) and cut new threads in the end of the rotor and put a long piece of steel rod thru the rotor. The steel rod will then fit between the end of the crankshaft and the new bigger bolt that i cut the threads for. Tighten the big bolt and it broke loose. Sorry for my English spelling..it is the best i can do.

I found a model specific pump for $50 and it should be here tomorrow. I just want to go back to stock. I think the electric pump was causing more issues than it was worth. When I jacked with it a couple days ago it wouldn't even fill the fuel filter.....I'm going to start there.....I'll let you know the results!!!

Like the other guy said, the engines are expected to be run at 3600 RPM. The whole system is designed to cool the engine properly at that speed. Cutting grass at 40% of throttle is not a good idea. With that load, you will be generating a lot of heat and no way to dissipate it. Make sure that there is no debris under the tin surrounding the engine. That will also prevent the engine from cooling properly. That carburetor is very easy to work on. Very few parts. Use your cell phone and take photos as you take it apart. Especially when you remove it from the engine. Sometimes it is confusing when you go to reattach the linkage to the engine.

That is quite a project! Wow! Looks great and engineered!

That's an excellent job there. I can only imagine the amount of work that went into that, love to try that someday. Ed

That is so neat....Works just like the big ones!

IT could be spark knock, if your points are set at .020 try setting them at .018 and see if this helps , if it does and and still does knock a little go to .016 good luck