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Showing most liked content on 11/29/2012 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    The hell with buying them all... Just buy the name and design rights from Toro and open the factory back up. Just make sure you only hire people from Red Square :greetings-clappingyellow:
  2. 4 points
    The answer is 2 If I had unlimited funds and ample room I would be collecting cars and women.
  3. 3 points
    I was told about a craigslist ad in Boston from a friend about 3 days ago. Like many emailed the seller and asked that he give me a call as I was very interested. So yesterday I recieved a call from the seller he started off by saying that he was "taking bids" At this point the price was $900 over his asking price. I did not want to get into that type of bidding... I told him that I would match that offer and could be there first thing the next day. He informed me that he had to make 1 last call and then he would get back to me. I said fine, let me know. A little while later he called me back and said the tractor was mine if I wanted it. Well that part was done but the next step was talking to momma about the purchase. Well let me say it was momma's birthday yesterday. After telling her about the tractor I wanted to purchase for the most I have spend on any single tractor she was very understanding and gave me the green light to buy it. I called the seller back, got the information on where I was going and set up a time for the morning. After that, I told momma the if was not her birthday I would be in my truck right now driving up to get it. Well being close to 5pm already and having to make a stop at the place where money grows on trees (bank) I was not sure if I could do it anyhow. Well momma said if you want to go she was good with that. After a quick happy birthday song and eating some cake, I found myself on the way to get it. I got to the seller's place about 8:30pm chatted for a while (he was a really nice guy), loaded up the tractor and started to head back. The story is that his father bought it from the original owner back in 1960. It has been in the family every since. Last night it was dark and the tractor had frost on it from the cold. Rear tires are shot and the fuel sediment bowl needs a gasket. PO said the last time he ran it was 3 years ago. Overall it is a pretty nice original survior. Upon further inspection today I see the hood looks like it was repainted with a red primer at some point in the past. It is sitting in in the garage and I am lubing up all the moving parts. The plans are to take the rear tires I have on the Economy and put them on the SR. Hopefully I can get the rear rims off. It will take lots of atf/acetone and heat to get them off I am sure. I will then get her running, cleaned up and change all the fluids. I have NO plans to restore this machine and NO plans of selling it in the future. Hopefully she is a solid runner and I can get it to as many shows including the 2013 PA show in June. I think tractors like this one needs to be viewed by as many of use collectors as possible. There is a lot of history and being so original it may help the next collector with a restore. etc. Here are the pics. I will post pictures of my progress as I start to work on it.
  4. 3 points
    Not all of them have a headache at the same time........... :banana-wrench:
  5. 3 points
    And just like that John takes the thread straight into the gutter!!!!!! LOL The cars thing I get but woman???? I got one and thats more than I can handle!!!! I don't know how the Polygamists do it!!!!!!....LOL
  6. 3 points
    Thanks guys. It's a great hobby, a great website, and a great bunch of folks here at RS. I am always standing bye, ready, willing, and able to help anyone if they need it.
  7. 2 points
    I bought my first round hood I think its a 753 with sickle bar a front wheihgt orginal wheel horse and an plow here are pics in two weeks he will in my possession
  8. 1 point
    Well i have got an idea so i just had to test it out to see if it works.. I have installed an electric winch on my raider 10 to lift the snowblade/blower/deck and also the rear hitch.. i have put it where the battery is on it so i have to put the battery under the seat on it:) Here are some pict of it so far.. and a small vid of how it lift.. Thanks Lars
  9. 1 point
    My son wanted a fun tractor that he didn't have to worry about scratching but he wanted it cool and different from eveyone else's tractor. Most of the things that were done to it were his idea's, he has been getting his hands dirty working on it along side me. I'll let the pics speak for themselves of what we have done so far, we picked it up less than two weeks ago. The first picture it is riding on the back of my trailer the day we got it home. There are still quite a few things we are going to do to it, this is just a start. We might change the color of the rims, just not sure what color yet. He has named it Rusty in memory of our puppy we lost a few months ago.
  10. 1 point
    I will do a series of updates on the progress I have in restoring an old Ross Steering Gear Column for a 953 Wheel Horse restore project. Our tractor is Serial No: 62-560. My brother David and I were given a 1963 Wheel Horse 953 which we have begun to rebuild and restore. David took it all apart and I told him I would tackle the Ross Steering Gear rebuild. We do not have the original 953 steering wheel but most other original parts are there. Her are some photos of what we are starting with before all the parts were taken off the tractor: I ordered repalcement parts for the Ross steerign gear off of Ebay. I bought the kit before taking the steerign gear apart but the worm gear on this steering column appaears ok. Probably a good idea to take one all apart before ordering the replacement parts as they are expensive but also hard to get new. The first challenge was the end cap. The kit sold on Ebay is from Guy Louderback and he sells rebuilt Ross steering gears in additon to the replacement parts. These steering columns were used not only on the early model 953's but also on Cub Cadets, John Deeres, Case, Jacobson and Ford early model lawn tractors. So parts apper to come from several sources and there are slight variations in the Ross steering gears between models. Guy send you instructions from Brian Miller's rebuilds, John Deere and Cub Cadet with some of his own informaiton too. The original 1963 Wheel Horse 953 owner's manual also has two pages on informaiton on the Ross Steering Gear. Here are some photos: The worm gear box part of the Ross steering column Lever arm with taper stud still in it. Looking into the worm gear Lever arm, seal and seal retainer and jam nuts removed My end cap DID NOT have a cotter key pin through the end cap like some models do. Note that some end caps are made different with more of a star pattern on the cap. The cap has a straight slot in it and it was difficult to loosen up. I used a screw driver and then a chisel and could not get any movement to unscrew the cap. Finally I came upon the idea of using a 7/8 wood drill bit that fit snuggly in the cap raceway and I could get enough leverage on it to slowly turn the cap and unscrew it. Here are the remains of the bearings and ball cup just inside the end cap Now for a bigger issue The remains of the original 953 Wheel Horse steering hub is still on the steering wheel end of the Ross steering column. I began using my trustly PB Blaster on it this am and will continue to apply PB Blaster and check for progress on removal of the old hub.
  11. 1 point
    Last night I went to see my 75 year old neighbor whom I knew had a nice push blade for a Wheel Horse. I was hoping he would sell it to me because i was pretty sure he had no need for it, and I could put it to some good use. While we were sitting by the fire talking about Good Moonshine and Bad Women, he happened to mention to me he thought he had a Wheel Horse sitting in the barn, and instructed me to go look and see if it was still there. So with Maglight in hand I walked out to the barn in a light drizzling rain. I entered the barn and lo and behold sure enough there in all its dusty glory sat a 1980's model Wheel Horse, and that in itself was good. But upon close inspection I discovered it was not just any old Wheel Horse, it was one just like I have been searching for over the past two years. The Wheel Horse right n front of me, and only one mile from my house was a Kohler K-341 powered 416-8! After a few minutes I was able to regain my composure, I studied this newly found treasure, and decided right then and there I needed to give it a new home. I then left and went to my place and tried to get some sleep without thinking non-stop about what I had just found. Today during my lunch minute I went to see my friend and with the blessing of his son (who is also a dear friend) we struck a deal on the 416, the push blade, and a 42" SD mowing deck. I brought the blade and deck home tonight. The 416 is still under roof waiting for me to pick it up this Saturday. Here is a pic off the blade and deck, and a sneak preview of the 416. I need you guys to tell me what year model you think this is. Any and all feedack is appreciated. Thank you. Van
  12. 1 point
    I know, how many transmission rebuilds can we have? This one will be a little different. The WH #5007 transmission came with the 701 and the 551 Roundhoods only, but it is basically the same as the #5025 3 speed uni-drive and the other spur gear differential transmissions in group II in the manual. The manual link... http://www.mywheelho...ns/492-4004.pdf The only visual difference I found on the outside of the transmission for identification...the drain and fill plugs are the same size...1/4" NPT with 3/8" hex head.. The WH #5025 has different sized drain and fill plugs. I cleaned out and rebuilt this transmission for Brrly1 (John). It was in bad shape. The bearings were either froze or gone, the cluster gear and both forked gears and the 11/44 toothed brake shaft gear were worn beyond use. Evidence that, who ever had this horse, did not come to complete stop before shifting. Racinfool74 had the gears we needed and the #1533 bearings. All of the rest of the bearings and seals I was able to get from Motion Industries. I will put up a sheet with all of the bearing and seal cross over numbers at the end of this post. I managed to do a video of the build of the differential and my test counter for breaking in the transmission...sorry...no video of the trans rebuild. I was having technical difficulties with the camera. How about some pictures? Cleaned and painted case halves...minus bearings and seals. John, I used Rustoleum "Regal Red". All of the bearings and seals...minus the #1533 ball bearings. Bearings and seals in place...flush with the outside of the case. The inside bearings are flush with the inside of the case. The needle bearing in the input shaft was gone. Picture shows the new bearing and the spline shaft that rides in the bearing. The parts that make up the differential. Here is a short video of putting the differential together. Click on video. All the gears and shafts that go into the transmission. The input shaft and the forked shafts in place. Adding the 11/44 toothed brake shaft gear. All the rest of the gears...notice the differential having the nuts facing up. Also notice the reverse idler...the 5007 reverse idler is the same on both sides...usually it is beveled on one side and that bevel would face up. All done... Another short video of how I break these transmissions in and make sure they run and shift correctly. Click on video. Here is a list of the bearing and seal numbers...This works for 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, 5033 3 speed uni-drives. Description.....................................WH #...................Vender #..................Quantity.......size in side axle...ball...........................1533.......................n/a...........................2................1 1/2" ID out side axle...needle....................1528......................B-1616.....................2................1' x 1 1/4" x 1" input shaft...needle........................1508......................B-1212.....................2................3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4" 11/44 gear base...needle...cap......1532......................M-16121..................1.................1" x 1 1/4" x 3/4" brake shaft top end...needle..........1530......................B-1612.....................1.................1" x 1 1/4" x 3/4" cluster gear shaft...needle...cap....1529......................M-12121...................2................3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4" input spline shaft...needle...cap.....1531......................M-10121...................2................5/8" x 7/8" x 3/4" inside input gear shaft...needle......1518.....................B-108........................1................5/8" x 15/16" x 1/2" input gear seal...............................1303.....................skf-7410....................1 axle & brake shaft seals................1232.....................skf-9815...................3 Hope this helps ...
  13. 1 point
    How many would I have??....none....cause I don't think I'd have room for them on my private island in the Pacific!!!
  14. 1 point
    Unlimited funds? I believe I would start with a garage....um underground bunker capeable of handling all the Wheel Horse's, other branded GT's, & trucks that I desired. With heat, AC, internet, satelite TV, Netflix, 80" flatscreen, beer fridge, hot & cold water, bathroom, machine shop....I'm sure there are things I'm forgetting. After that was done I'd focus on 65-68 Horse's...then skip the AMC years & start again till Toro ceased production of the Classic.
  15. 1 point
    a nice find,in 87 they put magnums in the 416,so as stated allready its a 85 or 86,as long as its the orig engine
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I wasn't going to marry them Sorry for going off topic
  18. 1 point
    What we thought might look cool looked cooler before we put the rims back on the tractor, so its back to black! Left the white walls, we don't mind em too much.
  19. 1 point
    Evening Lars, yep they are Trelleborgs. All the wheels I have cleaned up so far have had the "welding line" across them, but only the one has what looks like lots of little hammer marks all in neat lines! I like your optimism about my axle straightening skills Evening Richard, yep the bent shaft is the left rear, but it's not why there was a bit more slack. If you have a look at my Part 41 video you can see the sprocket is running true when Pete was larking about in the yard, but when I'm driving back to the shack you can see a wobble, so the damage had only just been done! I'm not sure if I can straighten the axle (I have made a start on it today), I might have to reuse the hub but make a new axle bit.. We shall see. Lol, yes the bearing blocks and welds handled the strain.. I like your positive thinking Thanks Matt, yep the full throttle take of was quite mad, all 6 tires even span for a second.. It was a shame that Pete got the camera rolling a couple of seconds too late and missed the launch.. Not something I fancy trying again, once has caused enough damage! Well, I managed to get the axle a bit straighter today.. Not by much but enough to be able to get the bearing off.. The green line is where the bend starts. Not being sure on the best way to tackle the axle I turned to something I do know... More wheels.. Number four is painted awaiting a tire, and number five is in the E-tank after the easiest tire removal so far.. The valve spring compressor did me proud today..
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    as many c-160's as i could get with every possible attachment including loaders and backhoes.
  22. 1 point
    Received in the mail from the UK an aluminum parking sign. I needed one! Pay attention! No green, no yellow, no blue, "Red is for the blood we shed."
  23. 1 point
    Well... that's a loaded question. How do you want to qualify it? By who was in charge during manufacturing? Pond/Wheel Horse Products, Inc. AMC Munn Investment Group Toro Do you want to include export only models, or models made only overseas? Do you want to include Toro branded tractors that use the Wheel Horse name? (Like the 260 series?) Like Gerry said... do you want to include rear engine riders? (In that respect... do REO models count since they were "REO by Wheel Horse"? What about the "Work Horse" models? I know... I know.... shut up... right? :D
  24. 1 point
    Clem...yes the 5007 and 5025 have the same inside parts and are interchangeable...I would think that the 5046 would also interchange with the 5007 and 5025. The title of the service bulletin says "5025-5045". I believe this refers to the group of transmissions that includes the 5025 which are spur gear differentials (ie. 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, 5058) and the group of transmissions that includes the 5045, which are bevel gear differentials (ie. 5045, 5047, 5051, 5059, 5058). :)
  25. 1 point
    Vinyl guy on here also sells a neat one, couldn't get it to paste.
  26. 1 point
    Couldn't really find the category for this post: How do y'all see these posted photos in an enlarged state? Often I see where someone is able to pick out the smallest detail. My thought is you must have some oaded software that allows magnification, or y'all have eagle eyes or it's just the years of experience. Any enlightenment appreciated!
  27. 1 point
    This little C-81 is now tucked up in my workshop, making friends with the C-125. Thank you Martin, I'll take good care of it and continue posting progress here as it occurs.
  28. 1 point
    If that ain't a nice unexpected surprise I don't know what is! Looks like she'll clean up purty nice. It also looks like it has the extra wide 520 rear rims on it? Glad ya got it!
  29. 1 point
    Van, Very nice. If you still have the 520H rolling chassis - perhaps using the front swept forward axle and steering might make for a cool 16 hp tractor. Good luck, Bill
  30. 1 point
    Do yourself a favor and get under the rear end and see if the case is cracked and/or has been repaired (usually brazed). Even if it was broken and repaired it is worth the 200 for sure but that rear is a weak point for sure.
  31. 1 point
    The points cover is visible in both pictures of the tractor. It's definitely not a Magnum. A 12 vs. 13 fin block is irrelevant for a stock worker. Either version would be a good engine. My opinion on what to do with it...... Give it a good going-over, fix what's broken, and use it. That's why they were built. :thumbs2:
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    nice tractor! even nicer plow! can't wait to see it . Jay
  34. 1 point
    :handgestures-thumbupright: Like I said I dont need no tractors unless I can steal um. This Guy needs to go see the Wizard Of OZ and get a brain, cause he aint going to get into the Dukes Wallet that Heavy! I'm surprised Jake the Tractor Mogel didnt get the guy down to fifty bucks. I mean if Wheel Horse Tractors were compared to the last supper and Jake was present the Lord wouldn't even get a biscuit! I told MJ Ole Jake has sniffed these out and sure enough you didnt disapoint. Jake what would you say would be a good price being you have seen em? ~Duke
  35. 1 point
    go off of the serial number of the engine see the attachment for cross reference Doc1.pdf
  36. 1 point
    Nice pickup Wheel-N-It! Picked up a '85 416-8 a few weeks ago, nice. New seat, steel pan, from Tractor Supply. Today picked up a 48" blade, same as yours. Removed deck, mounted, excited! **Note** Got the blade wet in a little leftover snow, always set the blade down on a piece of 2" x 4". Guess forum members are somehow related. All Crazy Horses?
  37. 1 point
    Ouch , That really sucks Cut the front off the hood , straighten it up a bit and then turn the front part of the hood into a wall clock at least you get some use out of it. I feel your pain bro
  38. 1 point
    Yup, I hear you. I have a touch of that in me too. Also, I am pretty cheap. Add to that the fact that I despise planned obsolescence, and I am the perfect storm of always fixing something. Still, I have to admire your efforts and your willingness to share your learnings with us. There's no telling how many good pieces of old iron you have saved from the scrap heap.
  39. 1 point
    Ok let's get this over with!!! The negatives Night games suck!! Wait all day and your team plays like a bunch of WUSSIES!! (Bears fans know all about this) G'nats have Packers number Ted needs to spend some money this off season. Crime is still up in N.Y. Someone put the Packers train up on blocks and stripped it!! There are 2 Statues of Liberty in N.Y. last night. Eli had all day. Queenies have 2 good players Only 1 played against the Bears, NICE 1st player can't hang on to the ball against the Bores 2nd player will have a miracle recovery and play against the Packers Seattle gets their starting corner backs suspended just in time for the game against the Bears. NICE The Positives: Pack can go on another 5 game streak and win the division! Meat heads still run the Bears!! 15 of the missing Packer starters will come back at some point Cutler has at least another 10 INT's in him this year Packers sucked so got to go to bed early. 4:50 A.M. comes way to soon Tom Coughlin didn't have a heart attack on the sideline. TBSS!!!
  40. 1 point
    Other older tractors have their good points but the longevity of the classic Wheel Horse design puts them at the top of the list for 20 HP and under tractors that you can use daily, for years to come. They were overbuilt in the right places, avoiding unneccessary complexity. The belt drive system is easy to maintain. You can repair them yourself when they do need attention.
  41. 1 point
    Best storage way I've had is stand it up on end, Takes up less floor space then.
  42. 1 point
    Hey fellas i have now got the battery under the seat pan and i have wired up the winch.. and it works great. going to take it apart again and paint the parts i have put on it.. and the best of all i have not made any other holes in my horse to get it one.. Wohoooooo Thanks Lars
  43. 1 point
    I did something similar to my 416, but I found a set of hubs with 3/4 bearings that slip right over the original front spindles. The wheels are a 4 on 4 standard trailer wheel. Tires are 165/65 x 8. The hub is by Azusa manufacturing, part #2296
  44. 1 point
    I have a 1995 416-H with about 430 hours. So far I have not had any engine problems. I have experienced grass,leaves and other debris getting sucked up on the engine fan screen. Getting tired of stopping to clean the screen, I came up with this solution. I purchased hardware screen at the home Depot 1/4 X 1/4 and fashioned a sort of half round screen from the bottom of the engine fan shroud from the front to the back also it covers about 3/4 of the height of the engine fan screen. Now when I cut grass the outer screen loads up with debris and the engine screen stays quite clean, since most of the debris comes from the cutting deck it collects on the hardware screen and clean air can still get to the engine fan from the open part of the hardware screen. I also have been reading theories about valve seat failures and broken rods. I have worked in Research and Engineering for Ford Motor Company for 35 years in Dynamometer engine testing, so I have some ideas about the failures. The cylinder temperature differences do not seem to be that big a difference to me. But here is what I know, carbon buidup in a cylinder will raise the compression ratio. Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled engines, so air cooled eingines are more sensitive to fuel octane and spark detonation. If fuel octane is borderline sufficient with clean combustion chambers, when carbon buildup is present that will raise the octane requirements and cause spark detonation which in an air cooled engine may be hard to detect due to the fan noise and mower noise. Spark detonation will cause a very high tempertaure to occur in the cylinder and could be cause for the valve seat failures. I would suggest using non alcohol fuels in air cooled engines to get the highest octane possible as a means to avoid spark detonation. I am not sure what effect alcohol has on spark detonation but I know it's NOT GOOD for the fuel system gaskets, rubber and aluminum parts. One other observation on carbon buildup in the rear cylinder. We do not know what the fuel distribution is in the front and rear cylinders. You cannot asume that both cylinders are getting the same amount of mixture in the cylinders, in most engines that is not true. Usually one cylinder runs richer than the other, due to intake manifold and exhaust manifold flow. This difference in fuel distribution can be the cause of carbon buildup and it usually is the cause of temperature differences in cylinders.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Sorry. Forgot. Here's a pic!
  47. 1 point
    How to cook a Boom Shackalacka Turkey... Step 1: Go buy a turkey Step 2: Take a drink of whiskey Step 3: Put turkey in the oven Step 4: Take another 2 drinks of whiskey Step 5: Set the degree at 375 ovens Step 6: Take 3 more whiskeys of drink Step 7: Turk the bastey Step 8: Whiskey another bottle of get Step 9: Ponder the meat thermometer Step 10: Glass yourself a pour of whiskey Step 11: Bake the whiskey for 4 hours Step 12: Take the oven out of the turkey Step 13: Floor the turkey up off of the pick Step 14: Turk the carvey Step 15: Get yourself another scottle of botch Step 16: Tet the sable and pour yourself a glass of turkey Step 17: Bless the dinner and pass out :)
  48. 1 point
    You already had the rep Steve. We're just "broadening your horizons" so to speak. Heck, it won't be long you'll be some kinda folk hero, known from coast to coast, they'll write songs about ya, make a movie. You should tell the story about you and Boxcar Willie. Cracks me up every time I hear it. :)
  49. 1 point
    Jim...how did you know. I just re-racked the plum wine yesterday too. Shoom Bachalaka :thumbs:
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