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And came with the first decent snowfall. Six inches of one of the heaviest snows ever in the first wave this morning, and 5-10 more in the forecast for tonight. Blowers were useless in this saturated snow, but the rubber chained 312H plowed five driveways, mailboxes, and the stone road in about 0ne hour.

Drill and tap is the best way but you could also drill a small hole straight through at the groove for a cotter pin

Finished up the 518. Came out pretty well. With the Eaton 1100 I sailed up the Driveway the 700 would struggle going up. Very happy with the results. I would like to thank the members here for their assistance.

I also prefer the bolts in the spindle. Always liked it when a young auto tech would have to take the RH lugs off an old Dodge. He’d grab an air wrench and pound away until his fillings fell out or somebody stopped him!

Nothing wrong with the cotter pin idea. You can adjust tightness with different thickness washers and cover them with a pair of Glen's hub caps...

"Lefty Lucy / Righty Tighty" didn't always apply on the old MoPars

I figured I would start a thread on this tractor now I have all the parts and will be working on it between other projects. I blasted the worst spots of the hood to see what I had to work with. I have a little welding to do.

Anybody on here ever upgrade their old worn out non-adjustable tie rods like this? These are for my '79 C-81. The beefy 5/8" diameter tie rods were worn out so I cut off the old ends, and squared up a piece that was 5" long. Then I welded some 1 1/4" 3/8-24 grade eight bolts to the ends of that so I could use these nice rod ends. It was a pretty easy small project. On another note if you looked closely in my C-125 First Start Video you would have noticed that the trans pulley my C-81 was sitting on the right floor board. That's because I'm trans pulley swapping it. The problem with my C-81 is that the trans input shaft if 5/8" diameter with and odd size 5/32" woodruff key slot. I have a 5/8" hub with a 3/16" keyway. I'm going to try to file a 3/16 woodruff key into an adapter key or find a machine shop locally that can broach a 5/32 keyway into the hub I have. I'm looking for other ideas though.

Just a hand drill and you can use small adjustable wrench for the tap. You can buy a tap with the correct drill bit at HD , Lowes or any good hardware store or order online. This application doesn't need to be exact perfect and it's a fairly simple process. WAAAAAY cheaper and easier than finding and replacing spindles. You can even do it with the wheels on the spindles. https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21669-16-inch-Drill/dp/B000BQW6F0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521583961&sr=8-7&keywords=5%2F16+drill+tap

I have a complete and solid Lawn Ranger That was painted a dumb color during a restoration many years ago and I was thinking about repainting it. It's all together and straight so it wont require much if any body work or metal repair......just paint. I used to think it had to be completely disassembled first before blasting and painting but after thinking about it I'm not so sure. It's seems to make more sense to start by removing, blasting, and painting the outer parts and working my way down to the frame. It would keep the thing on wheels so it could still be moved around at least for part of the time instead of a big pile of parts all at once. I also plan to get into the 90's and make a feeble attempt at filming / pics of the process so at least my sons have future proof that I didn't just sit around the shop drinking beer and listening to Led Zeppelin.all those years. Hell I may even have them help.

No Glenn they are not hardened at all and will drill like butter. Center punch & use a good sharp drill bit.

I like the spindles that are drilled & tapped, this is the rout that I would go. I would even drill & tap a new set if I were replacing the old ones.

I never liked that clip design. I would find a set of used spindles off a 70"s C series machine with the 9/16"th bolt that threads into the ends of the spindle to hold on the wheel assembly.

...stepped out to find this little W-H cutie patootie sitting on my doorstep today. @dw753 Thank you Derek...thing is awesome.

Air line repaired and oil leak taken care of. Marked the surface with a Sharpe. After sanding with 220 grit. Remarked and sanded again with400.

NICE, Yes, believe he's referring to DOM tube but... Used threaded rod cut to the complete length, covered it with cheap small pipe and added a couple extra nuts with washers on each end to lock the pipe in place. That's what I already had so used that. No welding, crimping, filing or special tools needed, just a hacksaw.

I'm hoping the second wave tonight will be lighter and more blower friendly. The 520H needs some work, and that warm cab will be easy to take tomorrow morning.

Step keys are easy peasy. Paint the sides of the 3/16 key with bluing of black magic marker. Clamp it tightly in the 3/16 slot with both ends at the same elevation and scribe along the side. Clamp the key in a vise aligned to the scribe line. File one side only until 1/64 is removed keeping the filed side parallel to the unfiled side using a Micrometer. File the other side to get the 5/32" thickness using the Mic to keep the sides parallel.

Here's some original paperwork I recently acquired!

I hear ya Paul. It wasn't a good day for me either when I had to crawl under to jack up a wagon load of hay that had lost a wheel and was leaning over against a wall. Sorry Glenn, I got a little , but old guys minds wander.

I prefer the D & T fix. I use a bolt and lock washer. Never had one back out....yet. I have lost several wheels while backing hay wagons into the barn. These spindle nuts spin off often.

Bolts are not fool proof..They can back out, usually left side. Happened to me when plowing a few years ago with aC-175. Fell off several hundred feet from the shop major PIA (That is why old trucks had left hand thread lugnuts on the drivers side) Wheel horse spec'd bolts with a plastic plug in them to keep that from happening but over time plastic gives up. I am using these now.

I'm thinking the chain is loose too. Possibly a badly worn tensioner block. Its really hard to see the block. If the chain is really that loose, I would replace the tension block. I had trouble with mine and replaced the block with a an idler sprocket.

This came as a videotape with my 17-44HXL. Video quality is not the best but it is as good as I could convert and upload. My computer skills are somewhat limited. Cleat

Wheels are done. Just need stems and chrome lug nuts.

You can use the trans hydraulics for small stuff and It will be fine for any lifting type or small cylinder applications. But if you want to run something like a log splitter, you'll only be able to split branches with 700 psi. Also, the reservoir capacity of the trans has to be considered. Double acting cylinders will fill one side as it drains the opposite side but the volume of the rod of the cylinder is what will make a difference in capacity. For example, a large 5 inch cylinder, with a 2 1/2 inch bore (rod), times a 24 inch stroke will equal about 2 quarts of volume for the rod. That means the reservoir oil will change in volume by 2 quarts from full extension of the cylinder to full retraction. To operate small utility cylinders with a 1/2 bore (rod) certainly wouldn't be a problem as far as oil capacity changes. Best advice I can give is to do some internet research on hydraulics and there are many online calculators to help figure out volumes, psi, gpm, rpm ect. ect. There are many circuit applications too like power beyond valves, circuit selector valves, ect. ect. It's probably a good idea to search for the psi and volume of your hydro trans. I'm no hydraulic expert by far but did a lot of researching before building the hoe and surprisingly retained some of it. Just be careful as well, do an internet search for "hydraulic accidents" under images and you will quickly realize the dangers of dealing with high pressure oil. The pumps for FELs and such are commonly mounted to the side of the engine with a belt to the PTO. It could be mounted to the front Tach a matic but then that seriously limits what other attachment could be connected there. If you go external pump you will need to add a reservoir too. Here's a pic of mine. Factory FEL pump is to the right. Added another backhoe pump to the lower left. I run two pumps but this is not common or necessary. Just wanted to keep both systems completely separate units so one could be removed without affecting the other.

3/8 nc 5/16" driil 3/8 NF Q drill

For the time being you will probably want to use the new "C" Clips, keep in mind that they are stamped steel and the rounded side should face toward the wheel so the sharp side can grip the groove on the spindle shaft.

Why spend money on different spindles? Just take your electric drill and cross dill a 1/8" for a cotter pin. Simple. If you prefer take your drill and carefully drill a straight 5/16" x 1" hole in the end of the spindles and tap them w/ a 3/8 NC tap. Or simpler yet, if there is enough shaft sticking out be on the outer wheel bearing, install 3/4" split collars.

I think you have been given two good potential solutions. 1. Drill the spindle for a cotter pin. 2. Replace the spindles with ones that are tapped for a bolt on the end or tap the existing spindles yourself. Each solution is a good fix and better than the C clip and will depend on your personal preference. Personally, I don't have the equipment to drill and tap the end of the spindles nicely and I prefer the look of the bolt rather than cotter pin so I would find good used spindles from an earlier C series to swap with your tractor. Just my preference. Mike

I'm not certain Eric but I think maybe Craig is trying to make fun of you.... I mean, its so uncommon to see that here, perhaps you should suggest that Craig do some Late season ice fishing on the Hudson river, seeing as he is so close to it

That would be a 3/8" bolt, head is 9/16. I agree with John, drill it for a cotter pin.

Both of you (obviously sick individuals) are more than welcome to come on up to Maine. 😀

The trans only has about 700 psi so attaching a separate hydraulic pump would probably be the best option depending on what you're doing with it. My tractor runs 2 pumps with completely separate hyd circuits, one for a loader and the other for a back hoe. It's the same principle you are suggesting but they're dedicated instead of going to quick connects on front/rear of tractor. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329712_200329712

That probably explains why one of my C85 spindles had the circlip replaced with a cotter pin.

I think the circlip idea is very cheap and nasty. My Sears/Roper is much better. Spindle end is treaded and has a lock nut. You could drill and tap the spindle end for a bolt and washer. I will if ever I get the same problem.

Push them down as far as you can with a clamp or whatever and then spray PB Blaster in the gap all the way around. Did you mean to say BEAD breaker?

It has been a cold long winter here in west central ILLIFORNIA but thankfully not a lot of snow. Lake opens in a couple weeks so hoping for early spring to get the water turned on. Cant wait to start working the commando again. Hoping this is the last winter blast for all our east coast members.

This happened to me as well. Now you'll probably need to change that sprocket on the gearbox too. It's difficult to see clearly when it's all mounted but if you inspect that sprocket closely, it's probably now curved on each tooth. This will constantly cause chain slip since the rollers will ride up those curved edges. If the sprocket's teeth have sharp points on them, the sprocket is worn. Just had to go through one and found using a half link in the chain made a big difference in how tight it is now and went with an idler sprocket instead of a block.

Didn't have to Jim. Just the threat was enough to make it snow. And BTW, Spring has arrived.

Or you could just clamp a vise grips on it to get you by this storm. What's with all these storms you easties are seeing .... if Ed @Ed Kennell took off his snow equipment like he was supposed it would be spring!

Spent a little time with the dremel and a sanding drum. Cleaned up pretty nice. Ordered more sanding drums and will tackle the exhaust next

My idler sprocket if you decide to got that way. You need that aluminum colored extension to clear the frame. You will need a slightly longer chain. Also, a new chain is cheap. TSC had #40 chain for about $20. Enough for two chains. Good Luck with the Nor'easter. We are only expected to get an inch or two. No fun in that.

Ok, I stopped in to get a few more pictures of the casting numbers and the engine pulley arrangement etc. I tried to see if I could talk to someone to get some history but there was no one around. “C3654S” ?? @DennisThornton, I’m thinking it’s been shortened by the looks of that rough area there on the left hand side This oil can-as-hydro reservoir kills me! I’m not sure if the engine is free because I can’t disengage the engine from the transmission with that killer spring on there holding tension and I didn’t wanna go poking around on it too much since it ain’t mine. I’ll see if I can get someone to answer the door at a later date.

I admit it has only happened to me once...but that was not a fun day

You could check A -Z tractors and flea bay for a set of spindles with the bolt.

Thanks Jim,I really had fun at your plow days driving on your round hoods.And maybe somday I'll get a round hood of my own to drive.I'm going to be gone at a competition for the next several days so I won't be able to post on here until I'm back.I'll be running,singing, and speaking at convention and so I'm going to be busy.I'll see if dad can post some pics of me in convention in the off topic section.