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vogli

The horse is dead...Long live the horse!

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vogli

OK, not dead, just resting, waiting on its servant to produce a working transmission.

 

IMG_20210806_195253569.jpg

 

I've acquired a stand-in, until the old horse is back on its feet. Finally got the lawn mowed.

 

IMG_20210806_195331868.jpg

Edited by vogli
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ebinmaine

Looks like a '73 12, 8 speed. 

Current transmission repairable?

 

 

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vogli

I'm about to find out. Finally made some space, and hauled the transmission into my "work room". Emphasis more on the "work", since there's hardly any room.

 

Claustrophobes need not apply:

 

 

IMG_20210806_220928787.jpg

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ebinmaine

What was the symptom for taking it out?

 

Plenty of parts out there so it'll likely be fine. 

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vogli

A variety of things were going on, but primarily, I had increasing difficulty shifting, and finally I couldn't shift at all.

 

 

I've not done this before...so it should be educational, if nothing else :-)

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953 nut
7 hours ago, vogli said:

I've not done this before

@stevasaurus has done this before and was thoughtful enough to develop a great thread to help others.

 

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ebinmaine
8 hours ago, vogli said:

A variety of things were going on, but primarily, I had increasing difficulty shifting, and finally I couldn't shift at all.

 

 

I've not done this before...so it should be educational, if nothing else :-)

 

Ahh.  

Certainly a great idea to watch Steve's video about 37 times like I've been known to do. 

 

The Wheelhorse transmission is a fascinating piece of simplistic extremely rugged machinery. 

 

Whatever you find when you pop it open keep us posted and you'll likely find the parts you need. 

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ebinmaine

Hitch pin is out and hubs are off so the toughest work is done. 

 

I use a sharp wood chisel to "tap" at the case half gasket all the way around. Usually on the second circle around the transmission the halves will begin to separate easily. 

 

Be sure to clean everything more than you think you need to when reassembly time comes. 

I find the locating pins in the outer case halves to be an issue if not sanded a little. 

 

Looking forward to seeing pics of what you have going on in there.  

 

I have an 8 speed setting on the shelf waiting for a cleaning and new seals as well. 

If you need reference shots I'll pop that one open but there's great info in Steve's threads.  

 

 

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Zeek
9 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Looks like a '73 12, 8 speed. 

Current transmission repairable?

 

 

He talked about it here.

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peter lena

@vogli just curious , what was the state of the lubrication in the trans ?  was it milky ,shift boot missing or ripped ? visible rust in  shifter area?  brought a few of these back , with fuel oil , kerosene flushes ,and driving in yard , regularly check my fluid levels and condition for moisture. also found "  road time " was vital on transmission function . every gear and hi/lo range , lots of time in reverse , slowly starts to make them work. just my own experience , good luck with it , pete

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vogli

Yeah, I'm working my way through the @stevasaurus videos. Those are really helpful in getting a picture of what I'll be dealing with. Really awesome.

 

I'm not sure what I'll get done this weekend. My wife is away, so I'm on kid duty along with some other things, and I'm slow in the best of times. So, my goals are pretty modest:

  • hoping to get the exterior cleaned well
  • videos watched
  • get the case cracked open
  • and some pictures taken

Anything else is bonus :-)

 

Edited by vogli
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vogli

@peter lena  Lube was bad.

  • Both axle seals seem shot. I mean, really gone.
  • It also looked like maybe the seal on the input shaft was starting to go as well.
  • Boot on shifter was coming apart - clearly water in the case
  • Looked like maybe some rust on the shifter
  • So, oil was brown, smelled bad, watery, contained metallic particles.

I agree, I mostly expect that there won't be anything majorly wrong inside. Gears moved relatively smoothly, with no sound of broken bits or skipping from broken teeth or anything. I may have gotten by by just replacing the shaft seals.

 

However, I've got a replacement tractor now, and the pressure is off. So now I'm mostly hoping to learn something, and do some long neglected maintenance on the whole machine.

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peter lena

@vogli glad you got a spare , found them to be really bombproof , I regularly check my trans oil , always fresh and full , change out every other year , with horse jacked up high at front to increase the oil drainage .always have an extra shift boot on hand , just in case. keep it oily , pete

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ebinmaine
14 minutes ago, vogli said:

So now I'm mostly hoping to learn something, and do some long neglected maintenance on the whole machine

 

Likely you'll find a good interior cleaning will do wonders. 

I'd highly advise close inspection of all gears of course and pay particular attention to the shift forks for both shifters knowing it was binding. 

 

At minimum you can order:

Case half gasket. 

Shift boot. 

All 4 seals. 

2 qts cheap 80W90 or so. 

 

Be a good idea to order extras of all for the future or other projects or... If you're like me I've been known to bugger up a seal during installation. 

 

Trina and I have enough tractors to maintain and current/future projects that I buy in bulk and keep my own "Parts department". 

 

 

51 minutes ago, Zeek said:

He talked about it here.

Found that after...

Thanks!!

:handgestures-thumbupright:

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stevasaurus

Here is another great source, the Hand Book that does step by step.  You want section V...

 

 

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vogli

@stevasaurus So, looking at that, section V...it looks like the only difference over those years is in the differential?

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vogli

OK, so, some pix, in gory detail (looks like I've got a lot of cleaning to do :-( ):

 

IMG_20210807_150028100.jpg

IMG_20210807_150351375.jpg

IMG_20210807_151012673.jpg

IMG_20210807_152400517.jpg

IMG_20210807_152423980.jpg

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stevasaurus

Not so...Section V is the 8 speed section.  It shows the hi/low mechanism and how those different parts go together.  I use that section along with the videos and pictures I took, because the pictures in that manual are not very clear.  Reading how they are telling you to take it apart and putting it back together is excellent.  My pictures and videos are meant to enhance what you are reading and give clearer pictures.  

   If you have the time, page through that manual and then go to the reference section on Red Square / main page / transmissions and open up some of the other transmissions that I have done.  Yes, there are a lot of similarities, but each one is different.  :orcs-cheers:

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stevasaurus

I was typing the above as you posted those pictures.  You can see the abrasions in those #1533 ball bearings...a pair of those from Lowell is about $80 for 2...I think.  You need to replace those.  From what I can see, your gears look to be OK...need to see those after cleaned.  All of your needle bearings, see if they clean up...you know what to look for, see if you think they need replacing.  The big bucks is the ball bearings.  Well, let's see how it cleans up and what you think about all the bearings.

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ebinmaine
5 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

.you know what to look for, see if you think they need replacing.  The big bucks is the ball bearings

The outer needle bearings can be had for 12 to 15 bucks each. 

For the $30 or less it would be a good idea to just replace them.  

 

Lowell sells complete kits or individual parts depending on needs. 

 

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stevasaurus

Don't quote me on this, but if you replace all of the bearings and seals, gasket, shift boot you should be in the $200 range doing it yourself....and that is pretty much all the bearings.  It is worth it if you got it apart already...fixing the trans gives you another 50 years (thinking you will never leave it out side to get water in it).  As you go through this trans and clean things up, you will see how well it is made...seals and bearings...that is nothing after what that trans has been through.  

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vogli

@stevasaurus Unfortunately I can only give you one thumbs up per post :-/ Seriously, your pictures and videos make it seem approachable/possible. Many thanks for all that work.

 

I'm definitely going to do a lot more reading/watching before I actually remove any of the gears, though the differential seems like it should be pretty straightforward.

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ebinmaine
Just now, vogli said:

Unfortunately I can only give you one thumbs up per post :-/ Seriously, your pictures and videos make it seem approachable/possible. Many thanks for all that work.

 

I'm definitely going to do a lot more reading/watching before I actually remove any of the gears, though the differential seems like it should be pretty straightforward.

 

 

It really is pretty easy. 

 

Oh.... Pay close attention to the check balls for the shift forks. They're known throughout the land to fly across the garage/shop and ALWAYS land in the least accessible location. 

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vogli

@ebinmaine Who is the "Lowell" of which thou speakest? Is this the wheelhorse parts & more gentleman? I've been looking at the kits there.

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stevasaurus

I will send you my phone number in PM.  You can call me anytime if you have a question, but I want to keep this thread going also...it will help a lot of members.  :occasion-xmas:

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