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ebinmaine

Any soldering tips you can offer?

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ebinmaine

Trina has done a little soldering while making a couple of stained glass pieces in the distant past. I don't recall ever trying it before. We're going to learn how tonight while we are making a canoe dolly. I'll share some info on that Dolly later today.

 

As usual, we've read some stuff and watched a few videos and it looks pretty easy.

 

Any advice or teachings would be appreciated.

 

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stevasaurus

Eric, you are going to soldier a canoe dolly??  Are you using copper tubing??  I can see brazing, but unless you are going to put lights on the dolly...not sure where or what would be strong enough when soldiered.  :confusion-confused:  :occasion-xmas:

   I've done tons of soldiering, but outside of some copper plumbing, most of mine would be closing up lead sleeves for phone company splices. 

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, stevasaurus said:

Eric, you are going to soldier a canoe dolly??  Are you using copper tubing??  I can see brazing, but unless you are going to put lights on the dolly...not sure where or what would be strong enough when soldiered.  :confusion-confused:  :occasion-xmas:

   I've done tons of soldiering, but outside of some copper plumbing, most of mine would be closing up lead sleeves for phone company splices. 

We're making one out of copper pipe. 3/4".

 

Normally they're made from PVC or aluminum so copper should be plenty strong.

 

We're using copper because that's what we have on hand... Especially after removing part of the heating system.

 

We figured it would be a great way to learn a new skill as well.

 

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stevasaurus

AHH!!  OK.  Copper is too expensive to buy for that, but if you have it lying around...excellent.  Clean all joints to be soldiered with wire mesh or sand paper...inside and out.  Coat with flux, the cleaned areas.  With a butane torch, heat the joint from the bottom...it does not take a lot of heat  As the joint becomes hot, touch the soldier to the top of the joint.  Remove heat, the soldier will flow all around and inside the cleaned areas.  You can wipe with a damp cloth, before the joint cools, to get a nice looking joint.  :occasion-xmas:

If you have a lot of that copper, that works great for the runners for building an ice fishing sled.  Just sayin'  :banana-linedance:

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ebinmaine
1 minute ago, stevasaurus said:

have a lot of that copper

yeah well we have enough that we are removing the entire hot water heating system so...

We should have enough for a couple of arts and crafts projects.

 

:lol:

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Lee1977

After cleaning the pipe and fittings and adding flux, 3/4" takes a lot of heat before the soldier is drawn in. A butain torch might not get it hot enough. I had to get my acetylene torch to get some 3/4" fittings soldiered when building my house.

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pullstart

Map gas works too...  but never heat the soldier, heat the copper and test swipe the soldier for melting point now and then.  

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The Tool Crib
47 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

AHH!!  OK.  Copper is too expensive to buy for that, but if you have it lying around...excellent.  Clean all joints to be soldiered with wire mesh or sand paper...inside and out.  Coat with flux, the cleaned areas.  With a butane torch, heat the joint from the bottom...it does not take a lot of heat  As the joint becomes hot, touch the soldier to the top of the joint.  Remove heat, the soldier will flow all around and inside the cleaned areas.  You can wipe with a damp cloth, before the joint cools, to get a nice looking joint.  :occasion-xmas:

If you have a lot of that copper, that works great for the runners for building an ice fishing sled.  Just sayin'  :banana-linedance:

Beautifly done steve!

 

:clap:

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Ed Kennell

@stevasaurus   has you covered Eric.            When joining metal, tig, mig, flux core, stick wire, lead solder, silver solder, or brazing,  cleanliness to the bare virgin metal is imperative.

 

Be careful not to contaminate the clean surfaces with a dirty flame.  The solder  will go to the heat.   Heat the fitting and draw the solder into the joint.

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ACman
Posted (edited)

:text-yeahthat:.... clean clean clean . I preferred map gas myself and I always tried to heat the backside of fitting (where pipe goes into fitting) then moving to the front before adding the solder . The solder will follow the heat around and just for reference a 3/4” fitting should use about a 3/4” length of solder and a 1/2” fitting should take about a 1/2” length. Try not to over heat as the flux will burn turning black and making the solder not to take as good.

Edited by ACman
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OILUJ52

Best part of this EB is the joints will not be inside of a wall of your house. Great bunch of tips.........go for it!

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wallfish

I see no one mentioned to clean the surfaces so be sure to clean the surfaces well. :ychain:

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953 nut
7 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

acetylene torch

If you use an oxy/acetylene torch do not go to a neutral flame like you would use for brazing and gas welding, much too hot! A plumber's torch uses air and acetylene and is much cooler.

Air/Acetylene Kit

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ebinmaine

Great pile of excellent tips.

Thanks guys!!

 

I love this site ...

 

Ask a question and within a few hours ya get a dozen people trying to help you out.

AWESOME.

 

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wallfish
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

Check this one out...I want to make this.

Personally I like the boat idea probably because it's a little crazy but that little driving sled is certainly cool too.

Is the idea to use the ice auger engine to power yourself out there and then also use it again for the ice auger?

 

Never mind, found this.

https://www.outdoorhub.com/news/2015/01/08/ice-fisherman-develops-ice-auger-doubles-go-cart/

 

Edited by wallfish
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Lee1977
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, wallfish said:

Personally I like the boat idea probably because it's a little crazy but that little driving sled is certainly cool too.

Is the idea to use the ice auger engine to power yourself out there and then also use it again for the ice auger?

 

Never mind, found this.

https://www.outdoorhub.com/news/2015/01/08/ice-fisherman-develops-ice-auger-doubles-go-cart/

 

Pick up a vertical shaft Wheel Horse and adapt it for an ice-auger engine.  And go in style.

Edited by Lee1977
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JCM

Eric, If you need some help learning to solder Sept 7 would be a good time to let you practice while you and Trina are here. I will help the both of you become Pro's in no time and have plenty of scrap copper with new copper fittings that I will donate to the cause. Looking forward to the M & G and some teaching you both the correct way IMO to be the one of the best soft solderer in Hiram! Have a great weekend to the both of you.

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ebinmaine

@JCM

You're a gentleman and a scholar.

Thank you!

 

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