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I have a D-180 that broke an axle I have got all new parts and have removed transaxle from machine. The 2 parts I am missing for re assembly are the metal screen with magnet for inside trans and a new gasket from transaxle to pump. I have done some looking and can not find these parts. I have the old screen but the rubber gasket on the end of it has some rot and is apart from the screen. The gasket is still in place but i would feel better putting in a new one before re build. Thanks for your help
What brand of gauges are D series owners using for replacements?
I would like a matched set for a D200(oil pressure, transmission temp, volts or amps) with lights.
The ones on mine are in bad shape and don't work, except amps. I think the sending units may be bad or maybe the inside of the gauges are bad from sitting outside for so long.
Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now...
All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect....
Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully.
1973 18 Automatic for sale. Was restored in mid 90’s by local Toro dealer for previous owner, he then sold to me and was used regularly to mow for about 15 years. Since 2013 it has seen little use. Needs battery, will start and run with a boost. Has original 48” mower deck and 48” plow/dozer blade. Also has 48” snowblower in working condition. Also have single blade furrow plow that works great with the three point hitch. The tractor only has the front PTO but it works great. Hydraulics system works great. Lights work as shown in video.
About the yellow fuel tank. Once they started adding ethanol to the fuel the 30 year old tank started to have issues clogging the screen. I replaced the stock tank with the yellow one. I still have the original and it likely can be cleaned and reinstalled since the tractor was NOT modified for the yellow tank.
Asking $2500 for everything. Located in Morris, CT (north and west of Waterbury CT)