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Sarge

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Sarge last won the day on February 18 2018

Sarge had the most liked content!

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About Sarge

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    RedSquare Pro

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1277 , '73 16 Auto , '74 C-160 , '74/75? D-180
  • favoritemodel
    1277

Profile Information

  • Military Member
    Marines
  • Location
    Ohio, Illinois
  • Occupation
    Union Laborer , Local 393
  • Interests
    Wheel Horse's and fabricating , old Land Cruisers , welding
    http://pure-gas.org/

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  1. I spy a pedal tractor but can't make out the model? Sarge
  2. Sarge

    Emory at hospital

    Hope all goes well - he's already proven himself as a tough kid and will probably take it in stride like everything else. Hope they get some answers for you folks - we'll be thinking about you. Sarge
  3. Once you get the repairs done - go hunt for a can of VHT vinyl dye, this stuff will permanently dye the color on the wheel across any spots you've repaired. https://www.amazon.com/VHT-ESP942000-Vinyl-Black-Satin/dp/B000CPIN9S Then, cover coat the entire thing in a few layers of Eastwood's Diamond Clear. This coating is UV stable and will not wear off. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-diamond-clear-gloss-aerosol.html When done, that wheel will look new, not kidding. Sarge
  4. With a blank and smooth metal panel - you could have @Vinylguy make up some decals for it... Sarge
  5. Sarge

    PTO step up

    You can also use the bigger clutch off the K341 engine equipped C160 tractors. Due to the extra torque output, that clutch is a larger diameter than the earlier 10/12hp engines. If I remember correctly, all it takes is keeping the same pto sleeve and clutch hoop as a package. Sarge
  6. Must have been the same one that welded the scab parts on my D180 front blade - except in that case he used SuperMissle 100 rod, which is easily about the hardest rod in the world to grind or cut off later. I ended up making all new parts for it out of heavier steel and used low-hydrogen 7018 - nice and strong, yet ductile. I do a lot of stick work at my job but easily get out of practice these days - it is a skill worth keeping or learning how to do correctly. No excuse for hack work, especially if it is something that can fail and cause any sort of injury. It is not that tough to learn - beg, borrow or trade out work for someone to teach you at least the basics - you'll never regret it. Sarge
  7. Good for your son - earn and learn at the same time, the only real way to teach kids how to live responsibly. My vote would have been the Challenger, just can't get over having the Charger name on a 4-door car, just doesn't belong there... Sarge
  8. Sarge

    Opinions On These Wheels

    Here's my take on it - The tires/wheels have to fit the looks of the vehicle. Stick a set of machined/cast aluminum 20"+ wheels on a '68 Charger and I'd knock your teeth out - they just don't belong to the looks of the car. In fact, to me, they are so ugly it should be a law. I've only ever seen a very few tasteful larger versions of the right style to make things look right on vintage vehicles - it is a really tough thing to pull off. As to vehicles built in the '90s, well, that's sort of a gray area as the styles were changing a lot. If that truck in question was a square body - I'd absolutely vote to keep it on a 15" or 16" wheel. But, being a Stepside, now the possibilities have opened up more due to its styling cues. There is some light vintage looking 18" wheels available now as well as 17" sizes. Hunt around on sites like Tire Rack that allow a stock photo to change the wheel looks with the various options - I've found it quite handy if they cover your model to compare how they will look when installed. It sure beats buying wheels and having to return them. Another option is to search through Google photos at restored vehicles of the same era - you'd be surprised at people's various opinions but it can be tough to figure out what exact model wheel you'll find in a picture. Summit Racing and Jeg's are another good source for wheels that fit the looks of early '90s trucks - they have new, stock looking rims in both stock and larger diameters available now new versus trying to find a good set and restore them. On an early '90s stepside, I'd stick to nothing larger than a 17" wheel, otherwise, it would look out of place. My old Land Cruiser would have looked quite stupid with a set of 20" wheels under it, regardless of the tire size. But, the 20" Limited wheels on my '14 Dodge pickup look right at home - they must fit the looks of the vehicle. You're almost stuck with something larger than a 15" due to tire choices, that size is almost phased out now and going up in price a lot compared to just a few years ago. Sarge
  9. If the thing isn't going to get worked hard - I'd say just make a pair of the braces that Dave outlined and go with that. They are, after all - hidden underneath and shouldn't even show when finished. Simple to make from scrap iron is a plus, not to mention cheap enough. I know the feeling of being off work - I get it every year with working construction but what they have done to the government workers is criminal. There is no reason you folks should be affected by a political fight regardless of what it's about - that's just not fair. I hope for folks like you it's over soon and they do something about the loss of income - you never asked for it nor did you do anything to deserve it and should be paid back in full. Sarge
  10. Sadly, because of the issue and at the time could not find a good hydrogear for the 876, I gave up on it and later sold the thing. Bad move, as should have kept it and just swapped in a complete piston to piston unit sourced from a later C series - would have made a real beast of a tractor. I remember at one time I had 3 of those hydrogear units apart at the same time and found some differences in them - seems the '66 models did have a case difference not found in the '67 model. Too long ago to remember the specifics, but at the time I was fighting pump issues and repairing bad axle keyway slots. Sarge
  11. Sarge

    What do you have for a workbench?

    Old, used commercial kitchen equipment is like gold if you can source any - the stuff is heavily overbuilt and very often tossed when a business goes belly up. The problem around here is that sort of stuff is being snatched up by commercial reseller warehouses now - they want a fortune for equipment they got for basically nothing. I missed out on a 30' long work area table that was 46" tall, 6' wide and made from 3/16" thick stainless with far more than enough cross braces to make a few heavy welding tables - that one really got my temper up as the whole thing went to a scrap yard and got crushed as they would not sell it back out. I hate some of the local recyclers, they'd rather scrap some things versus just selling it back out - even at pricing double what they paid for the scrap in the first place. Anything stainless around here has become really hard to get your grubby hands on now due to their practices. Not sure if they know some huge markup is coming on scrap stainless or what the deal is, but it really sucks as that's how I used to source a lot of my materials around here. I can't get ahold of thick plate steel now, either, for whatever reason - they just won't resell it out of the yard. Sarge
  12. That pretty much nails it - the only time I've knocked mine off timing was with 6-7 layers of heavy canvas and running Kevlar thread through a modified commercial needle. Something has to be said for a sewing machine that weighs 66lbs, lol. Sarge
  13. Dave's bracket braces are a great fix and quite easy to make. Even if you only own a jigsaw you could cut them out of good quality angle iron if you use the right metal cutting blade and take your time. Those pictures are deceiving - if you sandblast that frame plate you'll find twice as many cracks at minimum or even find out it's completely shattered. Push that thing hard working in dirt or similar and the remaining cracks you can't see will open all the way up - giving you a sway-backed Horse. Those early rear frame plates were stamped steel - they just used the wrong alloy and it caused the part to become brittle. The stress from using blades, lifting decks or especially heavy rear implements causes that plate to flex under power - so it shatters. A good welding shop with Dave's transmission dimensions could easily build a new plate and weld it onto a stripped frame and prepped frame pretty cheap. If you ever even consider working it hard (and, why not?) I'd advise adding in Dave's bracing system. That will permanently fix the rear frame issue and not look out of place enough to detract from the tractor's value. Someone had to push that short frame pretty hard to break that plate - it's rare when those are broken since the short frame doesn't have nearly as much leverage against that mounting point as the long frame models. Might want to take a close look at the wheel hubs - the keyways are probably heavily worn from whatever it took to break the frame plate as well. Sarge
  14. Sarge

    1067 rebuild

    I always sort of go overboard - I've done the same thing but used bronze bearings to give the shaft a bearing surface as well as provide a bronze thrust bearing side against the axle itself. There is a tremendous amount of stress at those points and the only reason those parts have lasted as long as they have was due to the quality of the steel originally used by WH. Try that today with our polluted materials and you see why the newer equipment will never last as long. I fully bush the entire front axle at any pivot points - especially those steering spindles, which isn't exactly easy and requires some specialized tools. I'll bet the ones I've rebuilt will last 50yrs or beyond - at least far longer than I'll be around on this rock. Sarge
  15. Sarge

    Snowblower Question (disassembly)

    The last two I took apart to change out the chain sprockets had both bearings rust welded tightly to the shaft and required some serious oxy-acetylene heat to get them loose. Once apart, make certain to look over that chain drive sprocket - most are worn out to the point of having sharp points on the teeth, which means its shot and must be replaced. There are open center replacement sprockets out there, I get ones that are close to the correct bore to fit the auger tubing and had one I turn on the lathe to make it fit - makes a huge difference in how smooth it will run. Don't remember the bearing numbers - I just ordered mine by the dimensions since I couldn't find a bearing number on them after cooking them so hard to get it apart. Sarge
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