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BOB ELLISON

C160 IDLER PULLY STUPID

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BOB ELLISON

Some dummy forgot to do it when the weather was nice .

And  I know I waited to long to replace the idler pully on my C160 and I should have done it in the fall. And it cost me more by holding off on a cheap fix. MY BAD.

I noticed the idler pulley was bouncing in the spring but I thought I'll get it before winter. Last week while plowing snow I started to smell something burn. So I put it back in the garage and checked the belt. The top of the belt was starting to turn black. So I pulled off the guard and looked at the belt and the pulley was froze solid. I  Pulled the pulley off and  the pulley was welded to the bolt with rust . The Belt had a large deep crack in it . I ended up replacing the belt and idler pully. I have a toro dealer 25 miles from me and he had both the pully and belt In stock. 7478

belt and 112426 pully $67.00 for both.

Well I got both on and it runs great now.

I did notice the Parking brake handle has been repaired badly. 

The diagram shows a spacer goes in the handle so the bolt can be tightened that holds the idler pully. Well the hole was oblong so he welded a spacer to the handle and if I tighten the bolt it binds the handle. I put thread lock on the bolt hoping it holds until spring. I'll replace the handle with a new homemade one as soon as possible. I hope I don't wait to long again. 

So the morel of this story is .

DON'T BE A DUMMY OR IT WILL COST YOU MORE IN THE END.

And yes that is belt rubber on the pully.

20180131_140628.jpg

20180131_140618.jpg

20180131_144753.jpg

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Sparky

Been there....my C-121. Didn’t wreck the belt but the shoulder bolt was toast!

930B283D-29CB-48C4-BD9B-8BDF8D52AB1B.jpeg

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ebinmaine

No worries Bob. Many of us have been in the same or similar situations. As a standardized card-holding member of the state of Maine professional procrastinators club, I'm all too familiar with....... well nevermind I'll deal with it later.

 

 

6 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Been there....my C-121. Didn’t wreck the belt but the shoulder bolt was toast!

930B283D-29CB-48C4-BD9B-8BDF8D52AB1B.jpeg

Slightly worn. ....... yes. 

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squonk
6 hours ago, BOB ELLISON said:

Some dummy forgot to do it when the weather was nice .

And  I know I waited to long to replace the idler pully on my C160 and I should have done it in the fall. And it cost me more by holding off on a cheap fix. MY BAD.

I noticed the idler pulley was bouncing in the spring but I thought I'll get it before winter. Last week while plowing snow I started to smell something burn. So I put it back in the garage and checked the belt. The top of the belt was starting to turn black. So I pulled off the guard and looked at the belt and the pulley was froze solid. I  Pulled the pulley off and  the pulley was welded to the bolt with rust . The Belt had a large deep crack in it . I ended up replacing the belt and idler pully. I have a toro dealer 25 miles from me and he had both the pully and belt In stock. 7478

belt and 112426 pully $67.00 for both.

Well I got both on and it runs great now.

I did notice the Parking brake handle has been repaired badly. 

The diagram shows a spacer goes in the handle so the bolt can be tightened that holds the idler pully. Well the hole was oblong so he welded a spacer to the handle and if I tighten the bolt it binds the handle. I put thread lock on the bolt hoping it holds until spring. I'll replace the handle with a new homemade one as soon as possible. I hope I don't wait to long again. 

So the morel of this story is .

DON'T BE A DUMMY OR IT WILL COST YOU MORE IN THE END.

And yes that is belt rubber on the pully.

20180131_140628.jpg

20180131_140618.jpg

20180131_144753.jpg

That center pivot pin gets worn also. I have a couple of them repaired by welding the original hole shut and redrilling and welding on a new pin. Those handles like to rattle when worn. Is that a 1410 filter? :handgestures-thumbupright:

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953 nut
48 minutes ago, squonk said:

Is that a 1410 filter?

1-140.jpg.8226add8ad7b44f9f9d8a2d1b769c2d4.jpg    :confusion-confused:

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elcamino/wheelhorse

@953 nut You know Mike has trouble reading , plus numbers are a mystery to him.:ROTF:

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BOB ELLISON

@squonk nothing gets by Richard. I have a question for you . Am I correct in saying that the bushing goes into the hole so the bolt can be tightened ??

to me that's the only way it can go. Here's a diagram I got and I did a little makeover on it. 

 

assy.jpg

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953 nut

Bob, you are correct.

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squonk
1 hour ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@953 nut You know Mike has trouble reading , plus numbers are a mystery to him.:ROTF:

Looking on my regular monitor sitting in a chair I couldn't see it with my crappy eyes. Blowing it up on a tablet like I'm doing now I can see it. Plus I had to braze today without the aid of dark glasses. Eyes take a beating. 

 

You better hope I don't steal your suspenders. You won't be able or allowed to go outdoors!

Edited by squonk
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Sarge

Try the new gold lenses now available for brazing in #5 shade - they really help older eyes see the puddle more clearly. Or, in my case - #3 lens...lol.

 

I've had to fix a lot of those handles from wear - I just trace them out and build a new one, minus the worn areas and put better quality bushings in every moving part to stop the issue. The jumping from the belts can wear those parts pretty badly , even the brake arms can get cut off where they contact the linkage.


Sarge

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BOB ELLISON

@Sarge is that bushing brass or bronze?  And yes I'm just going to make a new one . The other parts I'll inspect and if needed replaced them also. I'll do it when its warmer.  Thanks guys:greetings-clappingyellow:

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Sarge

IIRC, the original seemed to be straight brass - I use bronze oil impregnated on mine. Any of those linkages that I've welded up get ER80SD2 filler rod , it's closer to tool steel and a lot tougher but expensive.

 

Sarge

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