ebinmaine 67,017 #2401 Posted June 2, 2019 7 hours ago, Goldann520 said: Its just the metal tube in a tube holder. Looks like the lower piece is bolted to the block. No seal, metal slid in metal. O ring seal missing? Parts diagram not much help. I can check one of mine tomorrow. I'm not at all sure why that's loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 54,840 #2402 Posted June 2, 2019 2 hours ago, MIGHTYMO said: front of a 314-8 is stronger than the bed of a Silverado. Looks like the plastic knob on the mule drive was stronger than the truck bed! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adsm08 1,930 #2403 Posted June 2, 2019 2 hours ago, MIGHTYMO said: Today I learned that the front of a 314-8 is stronger than the bed of a Silverado... I am not surprised by that. Many years ago I learned that the front of a 310-8 (same hood by the looks of it) is NOT stronger than the bumper of a Ranger. I got the tractor stuck, dad pulled me out, he stopped, I didn't. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,298 #2404 Posted June 2, 2019 I rigged up a set of LED lights on the 16 Automatic which happens to be the tractor I use for snow blowing. With the tall chute blower being in front of the stock headlight location it wasn't very good at night. This I'm hoping will make a big difference. I somewhat copied the way the lights are mounted on the 854 If this works out the way I think it will, I'll make it out of something more sturdy than the copper pipe I used. 10 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,017 #2405 Posted June 3, 2019 @Goldann520 I don't see why that tube should be loose. Mine are a tight press fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractor boy 239 #2406 Posted June 3, 2019 Alot happening here. Pulled seat on brothers 312. Got a new one coming soon. Started on the wiring harness on the 1056. Got most of it put together but need to grab a fuse block for the lights and new battery terminal ends. When i was pulling the tank to get to the dash i made the shocking discovery that the plumbing was leaking. Figured id replace everything from the petcock coming off the tank to the hard line from the carb. Upon pulling the non working shut off discovered the screen was clogged. Since i am replacing most of the fuel system i would like to flush the tank. I was thinking a new shut off valve and then filling with mineral sprits. Would that hurt the tank? (No fuel line hooked up). Sorry for the book and no pictures guys.....Tractorboy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,017 #2407 Posted June 3, 2019 Yesterday evening Trina and I used the Cinnamon Horse and the orange Agri Fab trailer to move a radial arm saw from the upper driveway to the workshop shed. @wallfish.... The man. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldann520 241 #2408 Posted June 3, 2019 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: @Goldann520 I don't see why that tube should be loose. Mine are a tight press fit. Thats what i thought. Have to replaceit i guess Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,017 #2409 Posted June 3, 2019 5 hours ago, Goldann520 said: Thats what i thought. Have to replaceit i guess Or JB Weld it in place? Maybe you could post a video showing what it does and some of the engine gurus could chime in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chip61 658 #2410 Posted June 3, 2019 Here is a pic of most of my herd in Mathews. The C100 and Automatic10 had been written off, but neither took a whole lot to get them running. I also have another 416H that is pretty rough although it runs pretty good on one cylinder (I guess that makes it a 408??) but I took the battery out to get my neighbor up and running. 6 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldann520 241 #2411 Posted June 3, 2019 5 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Or JB Weld it in place? Maybe you could post a video showing what it does and some of the engine gurus could chime in. Thanks, i thought of that, was just worried with the heat and vibration it would end up in the oil and be slung into the moving parts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,017 #2412 Posted June 3, 2019 Just now, Goldann520 said: Thanks, i thought of that, was just worried with the heat and vibration it would end up in the oil and be slung into the moving parts Mmmmmm..... Honestly not sure about that. I have very little experience using J-B weld. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 5,767 #2413 Posted June 3, 2019 Onan and Briggs use a rubber seal that gets installed into the block then the dipstick tube plugs into that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
itsmeraymond 4 #2414 Posted June 4, 2019 On 6/3/2019 at 4:48 AM, rjg854 said: I rigged up a set of LED lights on the 16 Automatic which happens to be the tractor I use for snow blowing. With the tall chute blower being in front of the stock headlight location it wasn't very good at night. This I'm hoping will make a big difference. I somewhat copied the way the lights are mounted on the 854 If this works out the way I think it will, I'll make it out of something more sturdy than the copper pipe I used. I hope this will work out! Best of luck 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldann520 241 #2415 Posted June 4, 2019 Alright, callling out the big guns on this one. @WVHillbilly520H , @ACman, @pfrederi, @AMC RULES, @ebinmaine. Got my new drive belt, idler, and spring. Its still throwing the drive belt like when i got it to the tire side. (Right). From drive sheave to idler looks like a little twist and rolling right off the idler. Sheave on trans is not ideal, i chiseled and wire wheeled the rust best i could. Seems like engine wants to go to the flywheel side a half inch or so. Cannot find any ajustment for engine on cradle or mounts to frame. Isolators not the best. Btw, installed new head gasket and reset valves. Engine running pretty good. Ps drive belt is aftermarket and seems a little short. Ive had a lot of ratty wheelhorses and none ever threw belts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,298 #2416 Posted June 4, 2019 9 hours ago, itsmeraymond said: I hope this will work out! Best of luck Had the tractor out Sunday night, the lights just about shine the length of the driveway. My driveway is close to a 1/4 mile. Does just what I wanted. Thanks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,017 #2417 Posted June 4, 2019 @Goldann520 We have no hydro tractors here at all so I'm going to defer to the other guys for helping you out. The only thing I can really add is that if you have any rust or crust or chips left on the pulleys you may have to replace them instead of cleaning them up. Also, Trina just reminded me that if they are too worn on the inside and the curvature is not correct, they will not be usable. The belt itself will sit too low and not work correctly. It will burn out the belt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 37,861 #2418 Posted June 4, 2019 That right front engine isolator in your second picture appears to have completely pulled thru the cradle allowing the drive belt to pull the engine clockwise when under load. I would can the isolators and bolt that engine rigid to the frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldann520 241 #2419 Posted June 5, 2019 48 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: That right front engine isolator in your second picture appears to have completely pulled thru the cradle allowing the drive belt to pull the engine clockwise when under load. I would can the isolators and bolt that engine rigid to the frame. Ok, ed, i can do that? This problem has been there since i first fired it up. Engine does shake quite a bit and isolators not so hot like i mentionedbefore. It will bolt to the frame and line up properly? Ive never had a wh with a cradle and isolators 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldann520 241 #2420 Posted June 5, 2019 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: @Goldann520 We have no hydro tractors here at all so I'm going to defer to the other guys for helping you out. The only thing I can really add is that if you have any rust or crust or chips left on the pulleys you may have to replace them instead of cleaning them up. Also, Trina just reminded me that if they are too worn on the inside and the curvature is not correct, they will not be usable. The belt itself will sit too low and not work correctly. It will burn out the belt. Thanks, belt rides high on both sheaves Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,354 #2421 Posted June 5, 2019 Trying to hook my 7-1211 tiller to my C161 and I don't know how to hook up the lift cable. I'm thinking if I hook it to the top of the bar near where I'm stretching it to it will work shown in the eighth image. However, I would have to drill a hole in the top of the bar to attach the chain. It also will be very close to the gas tank when lifted as shown in the seventh image and I'm concerned whether it will damage the gas tank. Maybe I can cut off a section of the bracket where it comes near the tank? I'm also looking for a replacement idler pulley because the bearing is rusted tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,586 #2422 Posted June 5, 2019 I do believe Lowell has those pullies 'Foose give him a shot.. All else fails send it to me I'll put a new bearing in it for ya. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,578 #2423 Posted June 5, 2019 2 hours ago, cafoose said: Trying to hook my 7-1211 tiller to my C161 and I don't know how to hook up the lift cable. I'm thinking if I hook it to the top of the bar near where I'm stretching it to it will work shown in the eighth image. However, I would have to drill a hole in the top of the bar to attach the chain. It also will be very close to the gas tank when lifted as shown in the seventh image and I'm concerned whether it will damage the gas tank. Maybe I can cut off a section of the bracket where it comes near the tank? I'm also looking for a replacement idler pulley because the bearing is rusted tight. I think part of your problem is that style tiller was designed to work on the older raider style tractor with the gas tank in front. Take a good look at the newer style tiller mounting and see what you can do to convert yours over to that type of mount. I've personally have never seen that style mount in use. I might be able to get some pictures, but my tractor with the tiller on is buried in the shed and not sure I plan on getting it out any time soon. good luck eric j 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,354 #2424 Posted June 5, 2019 12 hours ago, cafoose said: Trying to hook my 7-1211 tiller to my C161 and I don't know how to hook up the lift cable. I'm thinking if I hook it to the top of the bar near where I'm stretching it to it will work shown in the eighth image. However, I would have to drill a hole in the top of the bar to attach the chain. It also will be very close to the gas tank when lifted as shown in the seventh image and I'm concerned whether it will damage the gas tank. Maybe I can cut off a section of the bracket where it comes near the tank? I'm also looking for a replacement idler pulley because the bearing is rusted tight. Looks like the pulley and bearing are available separately Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Tuul Crib 7,335 #2425 Posted June 5, 2019 On 6/1/2019 at 8:01 PM, adsm08 said: I am not surprised by that. Many years ago I learned that the front of a 310-8 (same hood by the looks of it) is NOT stronger than the bumper of a Ranger. I got the tractor stuck, dad pulled me out, he stopped, I didn't. Lucky it missed the glass!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites