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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, Goldann520 said:

Its just the metal tube in a tube holder. Looks like the lower piece is bolted to the block. No seal, metal slid in metal. O ring seal missing? Parts diagram not much help.

I can check one of mine tomorrow.

I'm not at all sure why that's loose.

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953 nut
2 hours ago, MIGHTYMO said:

front of a 314-8 is stronger than the bed of a Silverado.

:confusion-confused:     Looks like the plastic knob on the mule drive was stronger than the truck bed!    :scared-yipes:

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adsm08
2 hours ago, MIGHTYMO said:

Today I learned that the front of a 314-8 is stronger than the bed of a Silverado...

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I am not surprised by that.

 

Many years ago I learned that the front of a 310-8 (same hood by the looks of it) is NOT stronger than the bumper of a Ranger.

 

I got the tractor stuck, dad pulled me out, he stopped, I didn't.

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ebinmaine

@Goldann520

I don't see why that tube should be loose.

Mine are a tight press fit.

 

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Tractor boy

Alot happening here. Pulled seat on brothers 312. Got a new one coming soon.  Started on the wiring harness on the 1056. Got most of it put together but need to grab a fuse block for the lights and new battery terminal ends. When i was pulling the tank to get to the dash i made the shocking discovery that the plumbing was leaking. Figured id replace everything from the petcock coming off the tank to the hard line from the carb. Upon pulling the non working shut off discovered the screen was clogged. Since i am replacing most of the fuel system i would like to flush the tank. I was thinking a new shut off valve and then filling with mineral sprits.  Would that hurt the tank? (No fuel line hooked up). Sorry for the book and no pictures  guys.....Tractorboy 

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ebinmaine

Yesterday evening Trina and I used the Cinnamon Horse and the orange Agri Fab trailer to move a radial arm saw from the upper driveway to the workshop shed.

@wallfish.... The man.

 

 

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Goldann520
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

@Goldann520

I don't see why that tube should be loose.

Mine are a tight press fit.

 

Thats what i thought. Have to replaceit i guess 

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ebinmaine
5 hours ago, Goldann520 said:

Thats what i thought. Have to replaceit i guess 

Or JB Weld it in place?

Maybe you could post a video showing what it does and some of the engine gurus could chime in.

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chip61

Here is a pic of most of my herd in Mathews. The C100 and Automatic10 had been written off, but neither took a whole lot to get them running. I also have another 416H that is pretty rough although it runs pretty good on one cylinder (I guess that makes it a 408??) but I took the battery out to get my neighbor up and running.

 

 

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Goldann520
5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Or JB Weld it in place?

Maybe you could post a video showing what it does and some of the engine gurus could chime in.

Thanks, i thought of that, was just worried with the heat and vibration it would end up in the oil and be slung into the moving parts

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ebinmaine
Just now, Goldann520 said:

Thanks, i thought of that, was just worried with the heat and vibration it would end up in the oil and be slung into the moving parts

Mmmmmm.....

Honestly not sure about that. I have very little experience using J-B weld.

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cleat

Onan and Briggs use a rubber seal that gets installed into the block then the dipstick tube plugs into that.

 

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itsmeraymond
On 6/3/2019 at 4:48 AM, rjg854 said:

I rigged up a set of LED lights on the 16 Automatic which happens to be the tractor I use for snow blowing.  With the tall chute blower being in front of the stock headlight location it wasn't very good at night. This I'm hoping will make a big difference. 20190602_160601.jpg.ed00fb2c099bab395d8d52497ba22233.jpg20190602_155627.jpg.5ff6a80a1bae15f07194f709026d23b4.jpg

 

I  somewhat copied the way the lights are mounted on the 854

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If this works out the way I think it will,  I'll make it out of something more sturdy than the copper pipe I used.

I hope this will work out! Best of luck

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Goldann520

Alright, callling out the big guns on this one. @WVHillbilly520H , @ACman, @pfrederi, @AMC RULES, @ebinmaine. Got my new drive belt, idler, and spring. Its still throwing the drive belt like when i got it to the tire side. (Right). From drive sheave to idler looks like a little twist and rolling right off the idler. Sheave on trans is not ideal, i chiseled and wire wheeled the rust best i could. Seems like engine wants to go to the flywheel side a half inch or so. Cannot find any ajustment for engine on cradle or mounts to frame. Isolators not the best. Btw, installed new head gasket and reset valves. Engine running pretty good. Ps drive belt is aftermarket and seems a little short. Ive had a lot of ratty wheelhorses and none ever threw belts. 

 

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rjg854
9 hours ago, itsmeraymond said:

I hope this will work out! Best of luck

Had the tractor out Sunday night,  the lights just about shine the length of the driveway.  My driveway is close to a 1/4 mile. Does just what I wanted.  Thanks. 

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ebinmaine

@Goldann520

We have no hydro tractors here at all so I'm going to defer to the other guys for helping you out. The only thing I can really add is that if you have any rust or crust or chips left on the pulleys you may have to replace them instead of cleaning them up.

Also, Trina just reminded me that if they are too worn on the inside and the curvature is not correct, they will not be usable.

The belt itself will sit too low and not work correctly. It will burn out the belt.

 

 

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Ed Kennell

That right front engine isolator in your second picture appears to have completely pulled thru the cradle allowing the drive belt to pull the engine clockwise when under load.   I would can the isolators and bolt that engine rigid to the frame.

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Goldann520
48 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

That right front engine isolator in your second picture appears to have completely pulled thru the cradle allowing the drive belt to pull the engine clockwise when under load.   I would can the isolators and bolt that engine rigid to the frame.

Ok, ed, i can do that? This problem has been there since i first fired it up. Engine does shake quite a bit and isolators not so hot like i mentionedbefore. It will bolt to the frame and line up properly? Ive never had a wh with a cradle and isolators 

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Goldann520
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

@Goldann520

We have no hydro tractors here at all so I'm going to defer to the other guys for helping you out. The only thing I can really add is that if you have any rust or crust or chips left on the pulleys you may have to replace them instead of cleaning them up.

Also, Trina just reminded me that if they are too worn on the inside and the curvature is not correct, they will not be usable.

The belt itself will sit too low and not work correctly. It will burn out the belt.

 

 

Thanks, belt rides high on both sheaves

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cafoose

Trying to hook my 7-1211 tiller to my C161 and I don't know how to hook up the lift cable. I'm thinking if I hook it to the top of the bar near where I'm stretching it to it will work shown in the eighth image. However, I would have to drill a hole in the top of the bar to attach the chain. It also will be very close to the gas tank when lifted as shown in the seventh image and I'm concerned whether it will damage the gas tank. Maybe I can cut off a section of the bracket where it comes near the tank? I'm also looking for a replacement idler pulley because the bearing is rusted tight.

 

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WHX??

I do believe Lowell has those pullies  'Foose give him a shot.. All else fails send it to me I'll put a new bearing in it for ya.  

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ericj
2 hours ago, cafoose said:

Trying to hook my 7-1211 tiller to my C161 and I don't know how to hook up the lift cable. I'm thinking if I hook it to the top of the bar near where I'm stretching it to it will work shown in the eighth image. However, I would have to drill a hole in the top of the bar to attach the chain. It also will be very close to the gas tank when lifted as shown in the seventh image and I'm concerned whether it will damage the gas tank. Maybe I can cut off a section of the bracket where it comes near the tank? I'm also looking for a replacement idler pulley because the bearing is rusted tight.

 

20190603_102458.jpg

20190603_114912.jpg

20190603_115001.jpg

20190604_115928_resized.jpg

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 I think part of your problem is that style tiller was designed to work on the older raider style tractor with the gas tank in front. Take a good look at the newer style tiller mounting and see what you can do to convert yours over to that type of mount. I've personally have never seen that style mount in use. I might be able to get some pictures, but my tractor with the tiller on is buried in the shed and not sure I plan on getting it out any time soon. good luck

 

 

 

 

eric j 

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cafoose
12 hours ago, cafoose said:

Trying to hook my 7-1211 tiller to my C161 and I don't know how to hook up the lift cable. I'm thinking if I hook it to the top of the bar near where I'm stretching it to it will work shown in the eighth image. However, I would have to drill a hole in the top of the bar to attach the chain. It also will be very close to the gas tank when lifted as shown in the seventh image and I'm concerned whether it will damage the gas tank. Maybe I can cut off a section of the bracket where it comes near the tank? I'm also looking for a replacement idler pulley because the bearing is rusted tight.

Looks like the pulley and bearing are available separately

 

7-1211 tiller.PNG

tiller idler pulley.PNG

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The Tuul Crib
On 6/1/2019 at 8:01 PM, adsm08 said:

 

I am not surprised by that.

 

Many years ago I learned that the front of a 310-8 (same hood by the looks of it) is NOT stronger than the bumper of a Ranger.

 

I got the tractor stuck, dad pulled me out, he stopped, I didn't.

Lucky it missed the glass!!

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