This started out as mostly a "can we do it?" project, but I believe that some of you here might be interested in buying some of these. My daughter's boyfriend is an engineering student and has a 3-D printer. He modeled the bezel shape, and we did a few test runs which I tried out on several tractors here. These are NOT NOS, but I bought a pair of those a while back for $40 plus shipping and was not happy about spending that much. And, I like this new plastic quality better. I think the NOS bezels were so old they had warped some anyway. The texture is "line-y" or striated, but they could probably be sanded and painted with a good plastic paint to look more like the originals. But personally, I don't care. Maybe the show-tractor purists do, but that's okay - don't buy them if you want perfection.
The only challenge so far has been that most used hoods have bumped into a tree, fence post, or something over the years and are not in perfect shape. These bezels fit my tractors pretty well, but I was told by someone I sent a sample to that they were a bit of a loose fit on a NOS hood. But that's okay too. If you have an unblemished hood, give me the exact Width/Height measurements of your headlight holes, and we can adjust the size of the bezel for a tighter fit if necessary.
I'm looking to get $25 per pair, plus shipping (USPS Priority is about $9.50). Discount on multiple pairs, and I should be able to ship at least 5 pairs in one box if you want a bunch. Also, these could be done in just about any color by request. The first tests were in white and silver, since that was what was handy at the time. All later ones already made are in black. This is PLA material, not ABS, which is more brittle. In my opinion, these are probably more durable than the originals, but that's just a feeling. I have several pairs available, but as soon as those are sold there will be at least a few days lead time before I can get more made and shipped.
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About a year ago I bought a C-121 auto with the intention of using it as my go-to mower. Shortly thereafter I got a great deal on a low hour 314-8. It ran perfect and had several attachments - it became my new go-to mower. So, I decided to repurpose the 121 to be a front end loader. After purchasing the build plans from P.F Engineering (which are excellent), I realized I couldn’t build it for less than $2k in material. I decided to look for a used one and found a Thompson TC10 local to me, mounted on an “end of life” 1077, for $1,000. The loader swap itself was pretty straight forward. The only modifications needed were drilling a couple of mounting holes in the tractor frame, grinding away a little of the loader top frame so the hood opened/closed and welding in a new hydraulic pump mount. I have a few things to button up still and the bucket itself needs attention but it’s fully functional. I also bought a pair of clamp-on pallet forks.
I also did a “refresh” of the 121. The total project cost is shown below. Roughly $2,300, with just the FEL itself being around $1,300.
C-121 Auto $500
Solid engine mounts $50
Front End Loader
Johnson 10TC $1,000
Hydraulic fluid $35
Spare hydraulic hose $40
Battery cables $20
Points & Condenser $20
Carb & Gasket $65
Electric fuel pump $60 (later removed)
Air filter $10
Fuel filter $15
Fuel line $10
Spark plug $5
Decals and Paint
Headlight Lens $45
LED Headlights $25
Rear lights $25
Great condition C-121 for sale. if any ones interested lets dm. I'm based in North Yorkshire near Harrogate
Hello, I recently purchased a single stage snowblower attachment for my C-121. Currently going through my first storm with it. Made some passes down the driveway and blower was blowing a bit of snow backwards under the tractor. Snow is very fine and light snow. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this or has suggestions on remidies.
Just wanted to show a modification I did to my 1990 310-8. I recently picked up a 36” tiller for my horse and I tried it out on my new garden area. After hitting a rock, it knocked one of the axle brackets open dropping the right side of the tiller. On a manual I viewed, it had clevis pins to hold the lever in, but my bracket did not have them. I drilled a 1/4” hole through on each lever and mounted a 1/4” clevis pin and hairpin cotter to reinforce the lever. I read on another post to just tighten the bolts on the levers, but I think this will work a little better. Hope this helps someone!