Jump to content
Nuzmuz

Rear Mounting Bracket Mod for Tiller and Plow

Recommended Posts

Nuzmuz

Just wanted to show a modification I did to my 1990 310-8. I recently picked up a 36” tiller for my horse and I tried it out on my new garden area. After hitting a rock, it knocked one of the axle brackets open dropping the right side of the tiller. On a manual I viewed, it had clevis pins to hold the lever in, but my bracket did not have them. I drilled a 1/4” hole through on each lever and mounted a 1/4” clevis pin and hairpin cotter to reinforce the lever. I read on another post to just tighten the bolts on the levers, but I think this will work a little better. Hope this helps someone!

07D5F026-242E-4F21-9FAB-0C61FBE1D49A.jpeg

B2BCE2E8-A7F1-441F-A5F6-1374E3165504.jpeg

8869DCEF-1D37-41DC-8AA4-501DA6F0EA7C.jpeg

  • Like 4
  • Excellent 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs:       Axle bracket lever locks are a great idea.  Especially useful when plowing snow.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
R. L. Addison

I thought that was a good idea until I lost pins & spring pins. If that is done picker pins must have cotter pins so they can't get knocked out. I went to 1/4" bolts with the nylon locks.

Dun dere, been dat!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
seuadr

Nice!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti:, thanks for sharing!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JAinVA

I'm with RL.,1/4" bolts and elastic stop nuts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • loudtractor
      By loudtractor
      96-42BA01 plow. Brand new in box. I assembled to make sure all parts were included. Did have to add a trip spring, spring rod, and index rod. Someone "borrowed" them as it sat in the warehouse for 50 years. Box is a bit rough, but I could reinforce it for transport. I will disassemble it, need workbench space.
      Made for (per manual):
      1974 A800,
      1975 A80
      1976-7 A90 A100
      I believe vertical shaft tractors. Maybe others?
      Thanks for looking
      Matt 





    • 87buickt
      By 87buickt
      Listing for a friend, late 70s I believe D200 deck and plow. Been sitting for a while, make reasonable offer, friend also has tons of literature he may part with, if Interested let me know

    • Bill Winn
      By Bill Winn
      For sale. 1981 WH C-175 Kohler twin series 1
       
      1. Tractor has brand new ag tires all the way around, brand new seat, new points and condenser, new rear blade quick attach bracket, lights have been rewired with LEDs, it has a brand new lift cable and bracket,seat pan is from a 410... it's surface rusted but at least it isn't busted up like the oem plastic one, starts and runs but smokes a bit on startup if it's been sitting for months but she runs smooth and strong.
       
      2. Tiller is like new. It had been used only about once when I bought it and now it has been used 4 times more. Tines still have much of the factory paint on them.
       
      3. 42" mower deck works perfectly, 4. snow blade was/ is rough but I repaired it so it is quite functional,
       
      4. Brand new rear grader blade,
       
      5. Wheel Horse brand plow,
       
      6. Wheel Horse brand disc- I added a piece of motorgrader blade for a drag. I also welded a post to the top to hold weights,
       
      7. Wheel Horse brand cultivator,
       
      8. Home built furrower. (Makes good rows)
       
      The original Wheel Horse plow/disc/cultivator originally came as a modular kit and in order to use it the draw bar and clevis hitch had to be swapped back and forth. (big pain) I fabricated draw bars and hitches onto each piece so this is no longer necessary.
      I think this is a fair asking price at $2200 for all.















    • Donavon
      By Donavon
      Need ideas to convert my 1054 A Frame plow into a snow blower
      Any idea's?
    • oliver2-44
      By oliver2-44
      Anyone have any Troy Bilt  Pony Tiller Gear Box Experience?

      So about a year ago an older neighbor gave me this Troy Bilt Pony Rear Tine tiller.  Said he forgot he drained the engine oil and started it.  Bore diameter was actually good, but has a bunch of large vertical scars on cylinder walls.
      Fast forward, my wife has volunteered us to help a Youth Summer Camp that runs an  "Outdoor School" during the 9mth  school year.  They had a fairly large garden for several years, but it has been neglected & overgrown for a couple of years.  So she drives past this neglected garden daily! 
      There's some scheme emerging where we have half the garden to ourselves and help with the other half where students will plant and weed and pick their produce.  I enjoy a garden, but not real keen on some of the aspects on this one...( a bunch of 6" high raised beds with paths to narrow for my big feet to turn sideways. But I've already been committed, O I mean volunteered.  
       
      So engine is shot (aluminum block)  but I have a Predator or a K181 I could put on it. 
      The wheel shaft seals looked shot and had a bunch of play so brass wheel bushings were shot. (the other 2 shafts have tapered roller bearings).  
      No model number, but from the "Pxxxxx" serial number and Briggs engine I've dated it to a 1981.  
      MTD now owns Troy Bilt and their "on-line manuals" go back to 2000.  Called their Tech Supports and got "Deer in the Headlite" comments regarding a 1981 Service Manual. 
      Searched online and founds lots more info on the larger "Horse" model, and a 1991  Pony service manual.  
      While they basically look the same, there's been several generations of re-engineering the internals to simplify manufacturing and eliminate castings it appears.
      I found this parts diagram to be the close's match to what I have.  
      https://www.partstree.com/models/20462-troy-bilt-pony-i-rear-tine-tiller-sn-p001001-p101750/wheel-tiller-shaft-assemblies-7/
      I disassembled it and I think I marked everything as to what faced the front, back or R,L side.  Internals looked OK, but the wheel shaft seal area is not the greatest. 
      Most parts are NLA but found bearing. seals & bushings on ebay. $130
      Reassembled everything and used the 1991 Service Manual as a "Guide" to shimming the 3 shafts end play.
      Everything turn freely in both directions when in neutral. But when I engage the Wheel Shaft "Clutch" it binds up. The clutch lets the wheels roll freely or engages them to power.  It uses belt idlers to reverse direction from a second shaft on the briggs (like a walk behind snow blower drive)  
      photo from phone here 
      This internal clutch actually works by using a pawl disc which is keyed to the shaft to engage the wheel

      shaft gear which is free wheeling on the shaft. 
      I've loosened the bolt on the bearing end caps slightly and no change.
      This uses worm gears and I know "some" worm gears are designed where they must be "power driven"  in each direction (My boat lift is like this)   
      So the rear tine gear shaft turn freely in each direction.
      The wheel shaft locks up when the clutch is engaged amd trying to turn it in what would be the forward direction.  But it will turn freely with the clutch engaged if going in the backwards direction.
      The wheel shaft gear cannot be turned backwards because of the clutch mechanism on the one side.
      The rear tine shaft bevel gear turn freely in both direction in neutral but is bound up when the clutch on the wheel shaft is engaged.??
      There is a Main Drive Shaft that has the Worm Gears on it to drive the Wheel Gear and a second worm to drive the Tines Gear.
      https://www.partstree.com/models/20462-troy-bilt-pony-i-rear-tine-tiller-sn-p001001-p101750/main-drive-shaft-gear-assemblies-4/

      This shaft is made up of a smooth shaft with the worms keyed to it and spacers in between them.  I disassembled it (and carefully laid out each piece in order) to wire brush everything clean on the grinder as there was some rust from water in the very bottom of the gearbox. 
      I find it hard to believe that I could have one of the worms backwards because it seems it would not turn freely when the wheel clutch is not engaged??
      To remove it I have to disassemble everything and might ruin my seals as I have to drive them out. (dumb me, I tested everything to turn freely before I installed the seals, BUT I didn't engage the clutch)
       
      Just a note,, I didn't try to turn everything with the "clutch engaged" "Before" I disassembled it so I don't know how hard it should turn, but it had to turn via a belt drive verse's now totally locking up. 
      Regrettable a nonworking tiller doesn't get me out being volunteered. 
      Did I say I actually enjoy a garden! 
      Thanks for any suggestions and listening to my rant.   

      This is the input shaft from belt pulley

      Special woodruff key

      Tiller Tine Shaft

      Some one was in here before me. These are threaded holes with removable set screws to drive the bearing cone out. No set screws just filled with caulk or body putty. 
×
×
  • Create New...