Raider 12 axle leaking

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Alright running into two small problems but I think I may have identified the location and reason why the leak was there in the first place. First problem I am having is removing the axle gear from the shaft. I don't want to break it but which way does it come on or off the shaft? The location right at the end of the shaft where the C Clip was seems to be raised relative to the other sections. Is that the way it comes off?

Also, it looks like where the axle was leaking was missing a few of the needle bearings in the axle. How easy are these to pop in and is there any special technique to do it? Was probably going to go to ace hardware/ tractor supply to find the 1-1/8 needle bearings. Any part number to find them or does it have to be from wheel horse? (I assume p/n 1526) Thanks.

[stevasaurus 22,231]

Bob. if you have not seen it, here is the thread I did with videos for the #5060 transmission. 
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/49386-6-speed-5060-10-pinion-ls-trans-rebuild/

Be sure to put new nuts on those differential bolts.  The bearing you want is #1526...crosses to KOYO or Torrington # B1816.  NAPA may have it, but I bet they will have to order it for you...same for Motion Industries.   Use a good punch, or arbor to tap out the bearing by working your way around.   That axle gear should come off the splin end of that axle.  File it a little if you have to. 
 

Edited October 30, 2015 by stevasaurus

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Thank you for the help. I watched the videos you did and you did an excellent job. That's how I have gotten this far thus far. I must of missed some of the parts about this stuff. I will see what I can get done.

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Just wanted to do a little follow up. I completed the teardown and clean up and I put it back together. Believe it or not part of my biggest issue at the end was receiving wrong axle seals. I got a ball bearing in my SKF6105 seal and the seal that goes on the axle one of them was a 1/8 ID seal, but the other axle one was correct.

 

One last question. Is the input pulley mounted the correct way or should it of been reversed?

 

Everything is spinning in all gears and looks great. Now just have to mount it on the tractor. Hopefully today. Thank you everyone for all your help.

[stevasaurus 22,231]

Transmission looks great.  I think the pulley is OK...take a look at it when you put the belt on...everything should be in line.  It looks like the input shaft is not flush with the outside on the input pulley though.  Was it like that when you took it apart??   

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

That's what I am trying to figure out. I honestly don't remember. I took a few pictures but none of them show how it was seated. I found it weird as well that the pulley is a lot wider than the actual shaft. I guess I will find out when I try and connect the axle. I might just reverse it quickly to see how it sits that way, because the one side seems much flatter than the other side of the pulley (the outside of the pulley, the way I currently have it.

 

Edited November 28, 2015 by mmmmmdonuts

[diamondred 63]

On 6/5/2015, 4:47:04, mmmmmdonuts said:

Sorry for the confusion. I meant I got the oil seal shipped to my house. I did not get it onto the tractor yet. Sorry for the confusion. I am just going to get the grinder going and see what I can do.

Always be careful of the gas fumes if nothing else.

 

[stevasaurus 22,231]

I think you would have noticed it when you took it apart...it is the same input gear right??  I went back and looked at your earlier photos...every angle except the one we need.  It is the right pulley...something is not right.  What does it look like when you turn it??    I don't think I would put it on the horse until you figure it out.  Does the hi/low shifter work??  Just asking. 

[diamondred 63]

On 10/30/2015, 10:33:26, mmmmmdonuts said:

Alright running into two small problems but I think I may have identified the location and reason why the leak was there in the first place. First problem I am having is removing the axle gear from the shaft. I don't want to break it but which way does it come on or off the shaft? The location right at the end of the shaft where the C Clip was seems to be raised relative to the other sections. Is that the way it comes off?

Also, it looks like where the axle was leaking was missing a few of the needle bearings in the axle. How easy are these to pop in and is there any special technique to do it? Was probably going to go to ace hardware/ tractor supply to find the 1-1/8 needle bearings. Any part number to find them or does it have to be from wheel horse? (I assume p/n 1526) Thanks.

 

 

I hope that either the needle bearings worked their way outward and not inward. And if they did, that you found all of them. I had a 8spd eat itself up because there was needle bearings inside of the the transaxle. But get this, I looked at EVERY bearing in that transmission, and not one bearing was missing any. I have a feeling it happened at the factory during installation of one of the bearings that went wrong and they never retrieved the 8 loose needles. 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

I found all the needles. It was completely blown out and scrubbed out after I removed the needle bearings and replaced them. That stinks it came from the factory like that. I have seen that happen before at work with screws shorting electronics out.

 

I reversed the pulley. It now sits flush against the case, but the input shaft is still probably 3/8" from the end of the pulley. The whole input shaft extends out probably 1-1/2" out of the case. The high low gear seems to work. It stops in both positions and the wheels rotate at different rates on the same gear (2nd gear/ on both high and low). I can take a picture of the two positions of the high/low gear. When I took apart the case I never really changed the position of that shaft, since the shifting was very smooth as it was. The input pulley lines up with the rest of the tractor pulley's when it is seated this way. Basically is it a concern that the shaft does not extend out the length of the pulley?

Edited November 28, 2015 by mmmmmdonuts
Added photos

[stevasaurus 22,231]

3/8" isn't as bad as it looked.  I think flipping that pulley was the right thing to do.  If it shifts and turns freely, I would think you are OK...put it together and go for a ride. 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Alright. Thanks for the advice. It looked really off to me and once I flipped it, it looked quite a bit better. Hopefully I will be taking it for a ride sometime tomorrow. (Or at least that's the goal)

[stevasaurus 22,231]

We want pictures of riding around. 

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Got it mounted but am 1 bolt short in the front. I am going to have to run out and get a 3/8-16 bolt sometime tonight. I did have one more question and it is regarding the parking brake. I never had it working before and I really would like to get it working this time around. From what I remember it would go down, it would just never stay engaged. Thoughts? Definitely will post some pictures riding around.

[stevasaurus 22,231]

You probably have this, but if you don't, download the 3rd PDF...it shows and explains the parking brake and how to adjust it.  Good pictures. 

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/1830-tractor-1968-raider-12-late-production-da-om-ipl-wiring-snpdf/

[mmmmmdonuts 274]

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the help. Finally got it all back together. Got a new drive belt because the other one was stretched really bad. Got new tires for the rear as one tire was not holding any air and when I brought it to the mechanic to patch it and he laughed at me because they were both so far dry rotted, and destroyed.

 

Took it for a ride about an hour ago before it got to dark and the only thing I got to further adjust is the brake. It is way to loose for my taste, but the shifting was much smoother than before. Need to put my wheel weights on and the snowblower and it should be good when the snowflakes fly.