I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that
The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.
The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal.
The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500.
My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information.
Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below.
I am hoping someone can help my. I recently acquired a c160 for the engine for another tractor. So I did a motor swap and wanted to see what the hydro was like. I put a plow on it C-160 (which now has a 12hp engine on it). I did a quick test run and everything was good. I drained the fluid and change the filter (Napa 1410 filter and sae 30 transmission fluid as it stated to only use this fluid on the tractor.) everything was working great after the fluid change. I plowed two driveways and the sidewalks near my house... all the sudden the tractor would not go forwards or in reverse. I tried to pick the plow up and nothing... I checked my drive belt it was turning like it should. I started to push the tractor and the rear was engaged so it would not move. Of course I was 400’ from my driveway and the plow was down which made it fun. I put the tractor in forward and started to push it and the thing took off. So I hopped on and took it to the front of the garage. I put it in revers and it cut out again so I pushed it in the garage. Today I went out to check the tow valve. I took it out and cleaned the threads up put it back in and it did not change anything. According to the dipstick I have the proper amount of fluid in it. I did have a drip that I fixed on the cylinder still nothing... does anyone out there have any tips to help me out? I’ve never had a transmission like this only manual transmissions. The model of this transmission is the sundstrand 90-1140.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I know in the past someone posted up the sizes/numbers for the o-rings that fit between the hydro pump and the steel lines' manifold blocks on the D-series - I'd imagine the ones at the pump end and rear axle are the same ....?
Will be changing my pump soon due to the hydro to engine coupler blew out it's splines and took out the shaft along with it . Evidently a trailer weighing around 2.5 tons was too much....
I'll try to write up a post on how to build a new coupler from a later model C series pump pulley's center ring and a worn D coupler as well - trying to finish up the Ross steering box right now .
By Horse's ass
I can't seem to locate the oil plug on the transmission/hydro of the C161 auto. Can someone please show me where the heck it is!?!? I would think it was right on the bottom somewhere near the filter but I do not see or feel anything that looks like a oil drain.....
Thanks for your help,
I am currently towards the end of a 1276 restoration project, I just got everything back together and sent power to the transmission for the first time. Without the pump on and the gear in neutral, I can spin the axels by hand, one goes one way, the other, the other way, giving me indication that I don't have a differential problem. When I put power to it, everything appears to work as advertised, except when in gear I can stop the Axel from spinning with my hand, little to no resistance. I do have a bit of a rigging problem from worn linkage, but I can move the cam by hand to get it fully in gear. The tow gear in completely closed. Just flushed and filled with fluid. I have not changed the filter.
Any idea on why there seems to be no power in the axels??