701 Steering Support

[MalMac 1,328]

Has anyone welded the steering support that you always find broke on 701's. I know some cast can be welded. Don't know the quality of the cast this support is made out of. I have had in the past some welding that just would not hold on cast because the cast just was not the best.

Really don't want to have it welded then just break again. I have been checking and doing some measurements on it and I believe I might be able to mill a new one. Would like to keep it original though.

[dclarke 4,011]

Tim,I think Ray (surburban550) welded his a while back. If I remember right it came out pretty good.

[Kelly 1,028]

I've welded cast with my mig welder but it is best to preheat the part, I have brazed cast also both with good results

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Tim, You Want To V GROOVE the Two Pieces To allow more suface area to bond to. I have had my best reults welding cast Iron with Nickel Rod. Nickeloy I think its called and As Kelly Mentioned you want to Pre Heat The Cast Iron and let it Post cool Also. Just bring the Part up some weekend we will drink a couple QTS of apple juice and that will help me Lay Down a reel Good Bead.

Here is a site, this Guy Claims he has a good Rod and he might http://www.muggyweld.../?view=castiron Ill hafta try it sometime.

Cheers !Duke

:beer:

[MalMac 1,328]

Duke I will probably take you up on that. When I get things settled down around here and can head up that way.

[kpinnc 10,846]

When you guys say "preheat", how hot are you talking about? I have a couple cast parts that I'd be interested in trying to fix.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Kevin, I would say somewhere between 400-800 deg I have never seen anyone take it up past a dull Red which is prolly 1K deg. I have welded cracked well pumps, pitcher pumps, cast engine blocks, Cast flange bearing Assembly's all with great success.

~Duke

[kpinnc 10,846]

And what about cool down? I know you want to cool it slowly, but what methods are the best?

I have a stick welder, because I'm too poor for a wire welder- or multi-daughterly challenged, to be politically correct.

I've seen rods for cast, but know nothing about them. Anyone used a stick welder on cast?

Thanks!

[HorseFixer 2,012]

And what about cool down? I know you want to cool it slowly, but what methods are the best?

Kevin as I mentioned in Post #4 Post cool down is indeed important also I have a pair of Welding Leathers and just cover the object welded Not tight but prop it up over it to keep the heat in. Low and slow. I suppose you could cover with a carboard box or something just as long as there is an air gap between the piece and the carboard. All your wanting to do is slow the cooling process down a bit.

~Duke

[kpinnc 10,846]

I was thinking if I heated the parts in an oven to 500F (out in the shop, yes...) and then quickly put them back in the oven after a short run on a bead or two, that I could just turn the oven off and let it cool in there. Would probably take quite a while to cool. Sound reasonable, or am I way off?

I can stick two pieces of steel together, but I am by no means an experienced welder. Sorry for the number of questions. I really want to try this!

[sorekiwi 761]

Sounds reasonable to me Kevin.. There are stick welding rods for cast iron, actually I saw some at TSC last weekend.

At work they put stuff in the (Gas) BBQ to preheat, do the weld and then back into the BBQ for cool down.

[kpinnc 10,846]

At work they put stuff in the (Gas) BBQ to preheat, do the weld and then back into the BBQ for cool down.

My wife and I like to cook out on Friday nights. Steaks on one side, cast iron part on the other...

She will get a good laugh out of it when she sees it! Let the Facebook posts begin!

Thanks Mike! Great idea.

[sorekiwi 761]

My wife and I like to cook out on Friday nights. Steaks on one side, cast iron part on the other...

Better to do the welding before drinking the customary "waiting for it to heat up" beers, otherwise you get welds like this:

[Kelly 1,028]

I welded a engine block up in a car I forgot to drain the straight water out of was a demolition derby car, I cleaned it up with a wire wheel, used a die grinder to V out the crack, and that let me pound the piece back in place, about a 4" x 6" piece of block right at the motor mount, I heated it up with a torch till dull red then laid the weld to it, I used a mig welder 110V turned up all the way, I used the motor in derby cars for about 4 more years till a rod let go, the block never gave way even with the abuse I gave it, as for the cooling I normally just let it air cool, I have never covered the items, but I've always done this in the summer when it is hot out.

The oven idea is good, but most of the stuff I have done will not fit, like a 74 Impala .

[puddlejumper 67]

I agree with the nickle rods, you also need to reverse polarity on your welder. Preheating is not necessary but a blanket to slow the cooling process is a must along with a peening hammer as it cools. run short beads so the item doesnt get to hot since your not preheating and let cool between beads. I welded up a block (for lack of a better term since its just a casting with a inner cylinder sleave) for a old delmag diesel pile hammer a few years back in thisfashion and drove several feet of piling before we retired the hammer due to the cylinder walls being way out off tolerances to get enough compression for the hammer to run well. I was a little nervous about it because I had never welded cast before. but My welds held and if they will hold up to beating of the pile hammer jumping up and down it should hold that steering gear together.

[kpinnc 10,846]

otherwise you get welds like this:

Mike, my welds are crooked like that when I'm straight-up sober!

The oven idea is good, but most of the stuff I have done will not fit, like a 74 Impala

Good point Kelly!

I have been reading up on different rod types for cast. Looks like some require preheat, and some don't. Some are machinable afterward, and some aren't- not that this would be an issue for the work I need them for. I'll be trying this soon!