Wooden truck bed build thoughts

[ebinmaine 79,077]

Over the next several months I'll be contemplating, designing, and building a unique bed for my 1986 Ford F250. 

This will be a flatbed mostly designed for hauling tractors. At least 2, maybe 3. 

Also designed for hauling dirt/mulch/rocks etc...

It'll be functional, extremely strong, and very nice in appearance.  

 

I've made a BUNCH of notes:

 

  "Bed build thoughts: 

Ideally the size would be for holding two C series fore n aft at the headboard and another tractor crossways at the back. 

85" wide across flat inside x 108" - 110" long should work. 

Do not exceed total length of twice the "cab to axle" measurement. (Bed should be centered over axle)

 

Wood parts should be fully protected from weather and look good. 

Colored stain(?) on all oak parts.

Red tinted to bring out oak color? 

Full pigment paint on Advantech to hide text. Black?

 

Oak rails bolted through frame. Scribed to follow all curves in steel. Minimum thickness over suspension bump at 2". Front of rails near cab may be closer to 5" thick. 

 

 

Oak cross beams at every stock original location except at/over tire position. May need to add extra beams fore & aft of tire to get support for outer edges of Advantech. 

Or consider boxing wooden frame there.  

Cross beams should be bolted through frame combined with fore & aft rails. 

It would be preferable to bolt the flat surface Advantech as well. 

Install spacers on top of the frame rail in between all the cross beams for extra support.

Side supports at outer edges should be appropriately sized Oak beams as well. Probably four inches tall to match up with cross beams. Consider decorative wheel Arch over tire.

 

 

Add 12" to 14" of steel at frame rear for support of rearmost oak crossmember.

 

 

Widen trailer hitch with spacer plates to better match bottom of frame rails. 

Tie in trailer hitch with new rear frame. 

Use 1/8" plate steel with tapered bottom corners as end face plate/cap like a commercial truck.  

 

 

Rear bumper??   

 

 

As part of bed design and build be sure to incorporate splash guards of partially solid, partially soft at bottom, material. Sheet plastic? With rubber bottom? 

Mount a marker light as low and outside as possible on hard part. 

 

 

Headboard idea:

Install direct to frame to increase effective bed length. 

Attach to far outside of forward cross beam. 

Come up 12" to 15" vertically. 

Cap front with Advantech. 

DO NOT BLOCK MIRRORS. 

Do not block third brake/courtesy light. 

 

Make vertical/angled posts for each side that follow just outside body contour & are 4" taller than cab. Crossbar, 2" lower than top so there's a bump stop on each side to hold materials. 

Then run verticals lined up with the truck frame for support. Confirm that verticals don't block rear window view too much. Or box to avoid. 

Use some type of grating to protect glass while preserving view. 

For the sides and tailgate, some sort of 12" to 14" + tall removable board, as thin as possible. Advantech? 

 

 

Bed should have at minimum, a strip of metal around the outside edge to support lights. Perhaps C channel with lip on the upper side to protect the lights from falling objects."

 

 

 

 

 

 

[953 nut 66,435]

Take a look at @Pullstart's Norman, that sucker can load four  and the removable sides are his ramps.

[ri702bill 12,207]

Rear bumper with integrated hitch receiver?? What about fuel fill access? Fixed illuminated rear licence plate?

Pictures of the truck as is would be helpful.

[pfrederi 20,629]

Now maybe oak is cheaper up there but when I went to the local sawmill a couple years ago just  enough to redeck a 5x10 trailer caused me to stop...

[adsm08 4,525]

If you are looking to build a custom flat bed I would look into the lighting requirements of federal regulations. 

 

Even if your state has no inspections it is illegal to operate a vehicle that doesn't meet federal regulations on any road that is owned by or maintained with money from the Feds.

[ebinmaine 79,077]

19 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Rear bumper with integrated hitch receiver??

 

Not sure what I'm doing there yet. Depends on laws.  

 

19 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

What about fuel fill access?

 

Easy. Side fill.  

 

19 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Fixed illuminated rear licence plate?

 

Also easy. 

I have a pair of Peterbilt cab & chassis rear lamps. 

 

19 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Pictures of the truck as is would be helpful.

 

 

[ebinmaine 79,077]

22 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Now maybe oak is cheaper up there but when I went to the local sawmill a couple years ago just  enough to redeck a 5x10 trailer caused me to stop...

 

This is red oak I bought several years ago. 

Here, red is accessible. White oak is huge $$

[ebinmaine 79,077]

10 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

If you are looking to build a custom flat bed I would look into the lighting requirements of federal regulations. 

 

Already have. Remember my CDL. We do lighting inspections daily.  

 

 

10 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

 

Even if your state has no inspections it is illegal to operate a vehicle that doesn't meet federal regulations on any road that is owned by or maintained with money from the Feds.

 

We do have annual inspections here. 

I'm having several different State Inspection Stations give me instruction. 

 

This build will exceed every rule.  

 

[ri702bill 12,207]

And Collosus takes a trip to the back burner - again!

 

Truck frame looks excellent for its age....

[Pullstart 70,050]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Take a look at @Pullstart's Norman, that sucker can load four  and the removable sides are his ramps.

Norman will be hauling his deck here in a couple weeks 

[ebinmaine 79,077]

13 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

And Collosus takes a trip to the back burner - again!

Colossus is doing just fine. Being patient. 

 

 

13 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Truck frame looks excellent for its age....

 

This was restored between the early 2000s and 2015.  

 

 

[Handy Don 16,732]

Not really a truck guy. Torn between oak's great retro look (and my personal attraction to wood carpentry) on one hand and what metal can offer on the other.

 

I can heartily appreciate the “stake” sides becoming ramps although the transition from a straight ramp onto the flatbed can challenge the clearance of a tractor with an under-hung implement, e.g. a grader or mower deck. Depending on construction, the sides could help constrain small stuff like lumber. Being able to secure the sides flat on the bed when unused might help aerodynamics (only a highway speed issue). 

Sturdy enough to support side loading as well as rear loading would be cool.

Numerous strongpoints for load tiedowns

Hold downs within the flatbed, as opposed to only at the edges, will make both full and LTL (less than a full load) a LOT easier to secure. 

A plan & tie points for a tarp or other load cover might be “Maine-ly” useful

Under-bed storage boxes for straps, tarp, sleepers, etc.

Maintenance accessibility for worn/damaged deck member?

Work lights for loading/unloading in darkness--cab top mount?

Weight, i.e. keep as light as possible to preserve maximum load capacity. 

 

Edited 16 hours ago by Handy Don

[DLF 63]

My boss bought a 76 250 that the bed was trashed and had a oak bed put on it.  I moved the bumper back 16 or 18" and down maybe 8", also cut the ends bumper off just past the frame and mounted the tail lights there.

Goodman Lumber Co. built the bed to match the ones on there trucks.  Don't have any pictures, left there in 1998.

Edited 4 hours ago by DLF

[ebinmaine 79,077]

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

..... Torn between oak's great retro look (and my personal attraction to wood carpentry) on one hand and what metal can offer on the other.

 

Me too. That's why I'm adding steel to appropriate places. 

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

 

I can heartily appreciate the “stake” sides becoming ramps although the transition from a straight ramp onto the flatbed can challenge the clearance of a tractor with an under-hung implement, e.g. a grader or mower deck.

 

Methinks that's neat as well but I have a nice set of extra long "up" bowed aluminum ramps. 

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

 

Depending on construction, the sides could help constrain small stuff like lumber.

 

This was my thought process. 

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Being able to secure the sides flat on the bed when unused might help aerodynamics (only a highway speed issue). 

 

There are no "highway speeds" for this combo. It's a transmission with no overdrive and 4:10 gears. Top speed is probably 65 without a screaming engine. Most often 55 to 60. 

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Sturdy enough to support side loading as well as rear loading would be cool.

Numerous strongpoints for load tiedowns

Hold downs within the flatbed, as opposed to only at the edges, will make both full and LTL (less than a full load) a LOT easier to secure. 

 

Points of tiedowns are - to an extent  - something still in the consideration stage. Type and quantity. 

I know I'll need 3 across the front and one at each side two ft from the back. Minimum. 

I'd certainly like more. 

I know that wherever I choose will be no truck frame so the tiedowns will go through the wood beams as much as possible.  

THIS IS ONE OF MY MAIN CONCERNS.  

 

Steel reinforcement and top quality hardware will be used.  

 

 

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

A plan & tie points for a tarp or other load cover might be “Maine-ly” useful

 

I see what you did there. And good idea. 

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Under-bed storage boxes for straps, tarp, sleepers, etc.

 

I have room on the passenger's side behind the cab for an under-hung frame mounted box. Definitely a plan for that. 

 

The driver's side has the park brake brackets but perhaps a smaller box could hang off the bed...?

 

Also behind the seat... but there will already be a few things taking up space there. Road tool kit. Some extra parts. First aid. Fire extinguisher. Etc...

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Maintenance accessibility for worn/damaged deck member?

 

Good point here too. The entire assembly will be bolted through each other for strength. Individual piece replacement would still be possible though.  

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Work lights for loading/unloading in darkness--cab top mount?

 

The cab has a third brake lamp. I'm looking at swapping to a modern LED assembly that would have a white light in that. Possibly also at the top corners of the bed/ cab protector/  headboard.  

 

7 hours ago, Handy Don said:

Weight, i.e. keep as light as possible to preserve maximum load capacity. 

 

 

This is a concern... but not much. The truck will hold more than I need by weight and I'll be adding capacity in the form of increasing springs.  

 

[squonk 46,773]

Shall we get a " Poll" started?  

 

Chicken or Egg? 

 

Bed or Colossus? 

 

[ebinmaine 79,077]

15 minutes ago, squonk said:

Bed or Colossus? 

 

Bed.... probably. 

[953 nut 66,435]

11 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

This is red oak I bought several years ago. 

Here, red is accessible. White oak is huge $$

White oak is well worth the extra money because white oak is significantly more rot-resistant than red oak. Red oak is porous open grained wood and will warp and rot as a result. It is fine for interior use like cabinets but not for outdoor use. 

[ebinmaine 79,077]

29 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

White oak is well worth the extra money because white oak is significantly more rot-resistant than red oak. Red oak is porous open grained wood and will warp and rot as a result. It is fine for interior use like cabinets but not for outdoor use. 

 

I realize that and thank you. This particular application is going to be a little different from most. The truck is stored indoors and likely will never see winter.

 

Most people probably aren't aware of it, but there are thousands of wooden flatbeds on the road that are made out of red oak. As long as it is well treated and/or allowed to dry thoroughly, it lasts for years.

This bed will do both.

[Sparky-(Admin) 25,474]

  Personally I would opt for a manufactured aluminum or steel flatbed. Just bolt it on and go after it gets back from having the rear axle done.
  This way you can start using it, as opposed to having it still outa commission for weeks/months/years etc. 

  This is just an example, plenty of less expensive steel ones for sale. 
  

 

[peter lena 9,896]

@ebinmaine  nice project , suggest  https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+anti+rot+lubrication&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=wood++anti+rot+lubrication+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUY  also  very related is the totally open body seam areas , now is the time , with total access  to every concealed , seam moisture holding area / spot area  , lubrication in a closed , area will literally show you its  tracking , those dry rusty  leaf springs , fords , no drain moisture holding , frame mounts , every spot welded , connection , has a lubrication  related , lower , vent  drain area , VERIFYING , creep / tracking . basic , lighter  aerosol  creeping penetrant  , finds / shows you the way , then open gear  /  chain and cable lubrication . for me its a no brainer ? none of my stuff has body rot / rust , eliminate the starting  areas . trucks are an awesome  opportunity  , to stop  rust , glairing to me , now is the opportunity  , oily pete      

[squonk 46,773]

58 minutes ago, Sparky said:

   still outa commission for weeks/months/years etc. 

  

 

 

Situation normal! 

[SylvanLakeWH 31,500]

3 hours ago, squonk said:

Bed or Colossus?

This will be the trail cam pic at @ebinmaine's place shortly after Colossus makes its first run...

 

 

[dodge78 96]

Here is a bed I built some years ago. The sides would come off by loosening 2 bolts. In had a pin at the top with 2 clamps at the bottom and was as solid as a stock box. Solid enough I used the stock hardware to make a functioning tailgate. I cut the end of a box off that had the catches and straps to hold the tailgate.

I used strap hinges so I could remove the tailgate and put a solid rod into to lock in the ramps. I put metal over the tires to keep the height lower and were removable so I could put in a flat piece if needed. But I do not think I ever needed to.

This was built the size of a bed liner so it was smaller.