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Rob R

GT14 (1970)

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Rob R

I finally broke something serious on my GT14 the Lift arm that is attach (by chain) to the plow snapped off at the receiver arm top which is attached to the Hydro cylinder on the bottom. It appears the broken arm was welded there (see pics) my big question is how do get the "H" arm which is mounted on each side of the tractor by the steel plates the go up from the tractor frame out. I took off the four mounting bolts for it but it is tightly fit in aforementioned side plates I can move it up and down but cannot get it out. Is it relatively easy to remove one of the side plates and if yes which side is the easiest the pedal side left side (from the back) or the right side (from the back). Has anyone from the square experienced this problem, does anyone have this lift assembly. Any and all comments welcomed. p.s. I have used this beast for 10 years with zero major issues guess the stress of the lifting finally got to the arm which obviously is under tremendous pressure......Rob

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squonk

I had a special lift arm made for my 953. It broke at the weld. I took it to my welder friend ( Who made it) and he said it looked like the metal chrystalized from the heat. He redid it by TIG welding it and added reinforcement

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ri702bill
1 hour ago, squonk said:

and added reinforcement

The crucial key to a proper repair. Concentrated force or flexing will fatigue the metal. Spread that force over a greater area and you have a chance....

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Rob R
1 hour ago, squonk said:

I had a special lift arm made for my 953. It broke at the weld. I took it to my welder friend ( Who made it) and he said it looked like the metal chrystalized from the heat. He redid it by TIG welding it and added reinforcement

Thanks my current problem is how to get off the H frame inside the rails that the lift arm mates to...... I have it loose inside the rails so question is how can I get it out?  Do I have to remove at least one of the side rails? Has anyone done this and what is the best procedure? 

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Pullstart

I have lots of GT14 lift/rock shafts Rob.  Let me know if you need one.  It’s pretty busy to get the side plate off to access it, but doable.

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8ntruck
4 hours ago, ri702bill said:

The crucial key to a proper repair. Concentrated force or flexing will fatigue the metal. Spread that force over a greater area and you have a chance....

Not to mention that the weld itself creates sudden changes in the crystalline structure of the metal, which in turn create stress concentration points that provide points that encourage cracks (fatigue or overload) to start.

 

Reinforcement or shot peening are ways to improve and prevent weld repairs from cracking.

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Rob R
9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

I have lots of GT14 lift/rock shafts Rob.  Let me know if you need one.  It’s pretty busy to get the side plate off to access it, but doable.

Great news Pullstart I will message you I think it would be better if I put a replacement in as the break is at the top of the lever. Which side of the tunnel is the best to take off belt side or the brake pedal side and do you have to remove it completely it appears that the side mounter guides come off perhaps making enough room to sneak it out the top or bottom? Much appreciated your experience here. 

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Pullstart

Honestly I’ve never taken one down that far, but I have a basket case project or three that has a lot of those parts.  @19richie66 has the GT14 experience that many will never dream of.

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gt14rider

The shift looks like it bolts in, but can't remember if you can pull it out with out taking side plate off. Might be able to slide down, maybe just loosen some bolts up front

 

Here's so pic's 

 

 

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gt14rider

20260120_092146.jpg

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gt14rider

I added  bushings on mine 

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nylyon

@Rob R call me if you need an extra hand, might want to get this going for this weekend!

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Rob R
21 hours ago, nylyon said:

@Rob R call me if you need an extra hand, might want to get this going for this weekend!

Thanks Karl still trying to figure out how to get the Lift Link assembly out and it has been soo cold..... so what I did is moved the plow to my 310-8 so as to give me some time and get through the on-coming snowstorm. Welcome your help and experience. A second set of eyes would be GREAT! Thanks Rob  

Edited by Rob R

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Rob R
On 1/20/2026 at 7:43 AM, Pullstart said:

Honestly I’ve never taken one down that far, but I have a basket case project or three that has a lot of those parts.  @19richie66 has the GT14 experience that many will never dream of.

Those pics show the lift arm assembly and the deep channel it is installed in. Need to get that lift arm out somehow with messing something else up. Thanks 

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nylyon
On 1/22/2026 at 12:36 AM, Rob R said:

Thanks Karl still trying to figure out how to get the Lift Link assembly out and it has been soo cold..... so what I did is moved the plow to my 310-8 so as to give me some time and get through the on-coming snowstorm. Welcome your help and experience. A second set of eyes would be GREAT! Thanks Rob  

 

Let me know when you’re working on it (except for Sunday)

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Retired Wrencher

Rob sounds like you’re on the right path and you have lots of help here and at home. Good luck with the project. Hopefully it all works out for you. Stay safe up there.

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Rob R
On 1/19/2026 at 9:50 PM, Pullstart said:

I have lots of GT14 lift/rock shafts Rob.  Let me know if you need one.  It’s pretty busy to get the side plate off to access it, but doable.

Thank you, sir, did you find the time to package and ship the part? Total appreciate the offer and effort. Please let me know what I owe you. 

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Rob R

So made contact with Kevin (Pullstart) he has been fantastic yesterday he found and sent me pictures of the used Lift assembly he got out of his stash (in the freezing Michagan cold) and include his ideas on how to get the old one out by possibly spreading the side tunnel. He will be sending me the part when he gets a minute... THANK YOU in advance Kevin for all you have done to save the "beast". 

 

Obviously, I will be replacing he Lift arm when it arrives. One additional item the lift cylinder has a slow leak (been like this for years) and I have just lived with it. While I am in there does the cylinder come out reasonably easy, does it come apart easily (no special tools) and is there a seal replacement kit available for the rebuild? p.s. I can live with the leak if I have too. Thanks guys Rob 

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AlexR
45 minutes ago, Rob R said:

THANK YOU in advance Kevin for all you have done to save the "beast". 

People on this forum are the best!! I have never seen more helpful people anywhere else. 

 

I have gotten a lot of help on my projects as well. 

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pfrederi

The GT-14 uses a cylinder like the D series short fat and welded. ...They are welded like early Charger /Electro cyliinders.  Wheel horse parts and more will rebuild one for you.  it is not a do it yourself job.

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Roger R
On 1/19/2026 at 4:31 PM, squonk said:

.... it looked like the metal chrystalized from the heat. He redid it by TIG welding it and added reinforcement

Just a bit of advice I got from an old welder / Blacksmith many years ago, and have made it a practice of mine: Get aggressive with your chipping hammer, while the bead is still cherry red,  it works like a forging operation and adds strength to any weld.  (Chipping hammers are not only for chipping off slag) 

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19richie66
On 1/20/2026 at 7:43 AM, Pullstart said:

Honestly I’ve never taken one down that far, but I have a basket case project or three that has a lot of those parts.  @19richie66 has the GT14 experience that many will never dream of.

Not me 🤣 I left mine out as I was going to put power steering in there but never got around to it. Now I am planning on going back to the original lower lift setup and having the split hydraulic setup for three point. She’s going back to being able to use around here. Only thing I was thinking of is possibly using a small scissor jack to barely spread the tunnel open from the bottom to get the shaft out easier. Really not sure if it is possible without looking at mine. 

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8ntruck
28 minutes ago, Roger R said:

Just a bit of advice I got from an old welder / Blacksmith many years ago, and have made it a practice of mine: Get aggressive with your chipping hammer, while the bead is still cherry red,  it works like a forging operation and adds strength to any weld.  (Chipping hammers are not only for chipping off slag) 

:text-yeahthat:  that is pretty much poor man's shot peening.  If you have a needle descaler, keep running it over the weld after the scale is gone to produce kind of a stippled finish on the weld.  Hammer strikes and needle strikes introduce compressive residual stressen into the surface of the metal.  These compressive stresses make it harder for cracks to start.

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