Garden tractor adapter for car scissor lift? Suggestions?

[Blue Chips 165]

I have a full-rise automotive scissor lift, and I was just thinking today how handy it would be to have an adapter for garden tractors or other types of equipment that have a narrower track width than the average car or truck. I haven't even started the design phase yet, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to get some suggestions to kick-start the design process.

 

Ideally, here are some basic characteristics that I have in mind:

 

• Safe, solid, and stable.
• Easy to install and remove by myself (not some massive contraption that weighs a ton).
• Easily and quickly adjustable (if adjustments are needed).
• Simple drive-on, lift, lower, drive-off operation (e.g., no extra jacking required).
• Fairly compact when not in use and stored.
• Allows good access to the tractor chassis (i.e., doesn't get in the way too much when working on or under a tractor).
• Still allows me to drive over the lift to park a car or truck when it's installed. This might be a little tricky.
• You folks might think of some other desirable features.

 

I can fabricate parts as needed, but I'd still like to keep it relatively simple, as I have other projects to work on.

 

Ideas?

 

[ebinmaine 74,343]

@Handy Don 

@c-series don

[MainelyWheelhorse 2,028]

1 hour ago, Blue Chips said:

I have a full-rise automotive scissor lift, and I was just thinking today how handy it would be to have an adapter for garden tractors or other types of equipment that have a narrower track width than the average car or truck. I haven't even started the design phase yet, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to get some suggestions to kick-start the design process.

 

Ideally, here are some basic characteristics that I have in mind:

 

• Safe, solid, and stable.
• Easy to install and remove by myself (not some massive contraption that weighs a ton).
• Easily and quickly adjustable (if adjustments are needed).
• Simple drive-on, lift, lower, drive-off operation (e.g., no extra jacking required).
• Fairly compact when not in use and stored.
• Allows good access to the tractor chassis (i.e., doesn't get in the way too much when working on or under a tractor).
• Still allows me to drive over the lift to park a car or truck when it's installed. This might be a little tricky.
• You folks might think of some other desirable features.

 

I can fabricate parts as needed, but I'd still like to keep it relatively simple, as I have other projects to work on.

 

Ideas?

 

Maybe something like a bolt on aluminum plate that slides over the existing ramps for cars? If it was fairly thick like a ramp to unload tractor trailers, and had some of the bracing, it could handle the 600+ lbs tractors. But being aluminum still be relatively easy to move if needed.

[oliver2-44 10,948]

To help keep access underneath open could you put to ramps 90 degrees to the car ramps 

[kpinnc 15,477]

Not sure what the primary purpose you'd be using would be, but I'll tell you how mine works:

 

I built my lift so it would fit nearly any standard tractor. It locks onto the frame crossbar and has a plate that catches under the transmission mount. The part that catches the crossbar is a modified belly hitch so it locks and the tractor can't fall off. The lift only raises about 30 inches, but that puts it at the perfect height to work on. 

 

My 701, 523-H, Bronco 14, 310-8, Charger, and 867 all fit. The distance between the footpeg crossbar and tranny plate is fairly common on most Wheel Horses. Long or short frame makes no difference. Of course GT14, 953, 1054, and any D series is different. I don't have any of those machines to test. 

 

Of course if you want to be able to leave a mower deck on this isn't what you need. I made my lift to be able to start with a bare frame and build from there or tear down to a bare frame if needed. 

 

 

 

Edited 19 hours ago by kpinnc

[Blue Chips 165]

10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

To help keep access underneath open could you put to ramps 90 degrees to the car ramps 

 

Very interesting idea! I'll have to give that some thought. I'll check the wheelbase of my 522xi and GT18 tomorrow (working on getting our dock out of the water today) and compare it to the lift platform spacing to see what might be involved.

 

1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

Not sure what the primary purpose you'd be using would be, but I'll tell you how mine works:

 

I built my lift so it would fit nearly any standard tractor. It locks onto the frame crossbar and has a plate that catches under the transmission mount. The part that catches the crossbar is a modified belly hitch so it locks and the tractor can't fall off. The lift only raises about 30 inches, but that puts it at the perfect height to work on. 

 

That's a very impressive lift, and I can see where it would be great for your collection. If I had more time (and storage space) I'd consider building a specialized lift. Don't be misled by the apparently empty garage; it will soon be filled to bursting with tools and 'stuff.'

 

Here are a couple of photos of the lift, which I recently installed in our new garage, and my current restoration project vehicle, a 1954 Dodge M37 (shown with most of the body parts removed). The concrete blocks on the end of the chassis are to adjust the center of gravity so that it's centered over the lift pivots for stability.

 

 

 

[peter lena 9,422]

@kpinnc  like the roll around , swivel wheel idea, frequently  refer to a roller stool , on my snoopin around  look  for a repetitive problem . being able to  WATCH A  REPEDITIVE PROBLEM , IS WHAT YOU WANT !  another interesting  aspect of that , is that its typically  simple / easy,   say that easily  , because  i,m not going to  duplicate the problem, more often than not , its making  initial  movement phase , more EFFICENT , caballing and linkages , were initially  never  helped , due to added costs of trim areas . thats why they were so sloppy. done a lot of that  ever compare a SHOULDER BOLT  to a regular bolt , at a movement spot ? you can washer up / lubricate what you want . been doing this for years , immediately  do , what's most effective . nothing sarcastic  or offensive  implied , have years of  function , on used to be , problem areas . hydraulic oil  inside a  , cable run out , spring assist , to close ,how easily  does that work ?    pete

[Pullstart 68,005]

Is that lift adequate to lift two project tractors next to each other?  Twinning!

 

I have a single post lift in one bay of my shop.  I used a simple pallet and OSB to adapt a tractor lift out of it.

[kpinnc 15,477]

3 hours ago, Blue Chips said:

Here are a couple of photos of the lift,

 

That is a very nice lift! 

[Handy Don 14,536]

@kpinnc, @c-series don, and @Pullstart all have great responses.

I needed something safe, sturdy, and easy to make. Mainly for tractors on their wheels but adaptable to wheel-less. Short frame and long frame. Something I didn’t have to reach over to get at the tractor, i.e. footprint only a couple inches bigger than the tractor itself. I also wanted good access to the underside for working on steering, frame, or under-mounted implements like a mower or grader. 

My stand is two 2x12 planks with a gusseted 2x4 frame and legs to support them at about 24” off the ground. The large components bolt together so that I can disassemble for storage (where it is buried just now!). I use ramps and a come-along to get the tractor on or off. I also have a 1000 lb. HF wheeled lift table/cart that fits under the stand so that I can reposition the stand within the work area while the tractor is on it. I also use the table/cart alone with a custom frame block pad when changing wheels or mounting tire chains. 

With the two-post lift, for wheels-on tractors, I’d consider: a) securing sufficiently strong ramps spanning between the post’s lift platforms. You’ll still have to reach around the platforms to work, or b) securing the ramps atop ONE of the posts. 

For wheels-off, I’d go with a secured cradle atop only one post. 

 

Edited 13 hours ago by Handy Don

[Blue Chips 165]

I'm taking a short break from prepping our floating dock for removal, so time for a few quick comments:

 

I just took a couple of quick measurements. The wheelbase of my two 5xi-type tractors is roughly 53 inches, and the lift platforms are about 55 inches from center to center, so the 90-degree approach suggested by @oliver2-44 might work well for those machines, placing the wheels almost over the exact centers of the platforms when driven onto them at 90 degrees. 

 

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

With the two-post lift, for wheels-on tractors, I’d consider: a) securing sufficiently strong ramps spanning between the post’s lift platforms. You’ll still have to reach around the platforms to work, or b) securing the ramps atop ONE of the posts. For wheels-off, I’d go with a secured cradle atop only one post. 

 

The cradle-on-one-post/platform idea is something that I'll think about for wheels-off work. Or possibly a wheels-off variation of the wheels-on cross-platform approach with raiseable cradles either built-in or individually placed on the platforms, allowing you to drive onto the platforms and then raise the tractor just enough above the platforms to remove the wheels.

 

As to a 90-degree cross-platform approach, I'm thinking that the entry ramps could be detached after driving onto the platforms to allow better access. In any case, it should have some kind of built-in wheel 'chocks' to prevent rolling while on the platform.

 

Still early in the idea stage. I'll have to do some sketching.

 

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Is that lift adequate to lift two project tractors next to each other?  Twinning!

I have a single post lift in one bay of my shop.  I used a simple pallet and OSB to adapt a tractor lift out of it.

 

Definitely adequate. It's rated at 8,000 pounds plus a safety factor, although I don't plan on putting that much weight on it.

 

Nice single-post lift you have. When I was in college back around the time that fire and the wheel were discovered, I worked in a couple of places with single-post in-floor hydraulic or air-over-hydraulic lifts. You don't see too many of those any more. Probably due to the cost. 

 

15 hours ago, MainelyWheelhorse said:

Maybe something like a bolt on aluminum plate that slides over the existing ramps for cars? If it was fairly thick like a ramp to unload tractor trailers, and had some of the bracing, it could handle the 600+ lbs tractors. But being aluminum still be relatively easy to move if needed.

 

I'm thinking that at least part of it could be aluminum to save what's left of my lower back.

 

 

Edited 12 hours ago by Blue Chips

[Handy Don 14,536]

8 minutes ago, Blue Chips said:

save what's left of my lower back.

This was my goal for building the work stand. I’ve also added a 5-caster mechanic’s stool and, when I can get my grandson off it, it’s a great help!

[clueless 3,317]

6 hours ago, Blue Chips said:

 

Very interesting idea! I'll have to give that some thought. I'll check the wheelbase of my 522xi and GT18 tomorrow (working on getting our dock out of the water today) and compare it to the lift platform spacing to see what might be involved.

 

 

That's a very impressive lift, and I can see where it would be great for your collection. If I had more time (and storage space) I'd consider building a specialized lift. Don't be misled by the apparently empty garage; it will soon be filled to bursting with tools and 'stuff.'

 

Here are a couple of photos of the lift, which I recently installed in our new garage, and my current restoration project vehicle, a 1954 Dodge M37 (shown with most of the body parts removed). The concrete blocks on the end of the chassis are to adjust the center of gravity so that it's centered over the lift pivots for stability.

 

 

 

how wide is the gap between the two ramps?

[Blue Chips 165]

2 hours ago, clueless said:

how wide is the gap between the two ramps?

The gap between the ramps/platforms is about 30 inches. For my 5xi-type tractors, if I drove them onto the ramp in the normal way as if they were a car, the tires would be about halfway on and halfway off, plus I prefer to center the load over the platforms as much as possible for stability. I don't know how their track width compares with other Wheel Horse tractors.

Edited 7 hours ago by Blue Chips