C175 Auto

[tmix61 90]

Well look what came home with me. Now I have a lot of questions. Thanks to you guys I figured out what transmission it had in it and it was the pushable type LOL hasn't ran since 2019 so I have my work cut out for me had a massive oil leak as you can see below the clutch not sure where that's coming from yet. Here is the tag off the wheel horse maybe someone could decipher what year it is and what all them numbers mean? In one picture there's a little mechanism on the left side above the floorboard not sure what that's for it says up and down? Another picture shows the cracked and missing rear fender part not sure if you call that the fender pan or what where would one go about getting a new one of them okay a used one I know you like the boat seat lol it also came with a snowblower that looks like it had very few hours on it not that I'm going to use it because I have a gravel driveway them rocks can fly very very far and doesn't like vinyl siding on a house don't ask me how I know I own a D200 LOL. I did take a picture of the tag on the motor it's a 17 horse Kohler not sure what carburetor is on it I would like to rebuild it seen it has been sitting since 2019 anybody know where I can get a Kohler rebuild kit and what carburetor might be on it?

[tmix61 90]

[tmix61 90]

More pictures

[ebinmaine 74,182]

2 hours ago, tmix61 said:

Kohler rebuild kit

 

That should be a Kohler kit number 

2575702S

 

The fender pan can be replaced with a metal one. 

 

 

[953 nut 61,689]

It is a 1980 model. Take it to the car wash while it is on the trailer. Get all that gunk off first then when you get it running you can tell where the oil came from. Could be the previous owner just spilled a lot of oil.

[oliver2-44 10,922]

Nice score.

Enjoy cleaning it up and bring it back to life. 
 

Kohler changed from Series 1 to series 2 engine pressurized rod oiling design at spec 23400. So that is a Series 1 engine. Series 1 engine are good engines if used on flat land and oil kept a little over full.  On hilly ground the series 1 engine some parts got starved of oil. 
1st order of maintenance might be to jump the starter for a compression test and to listen for any rod knock. Since it has been setting a lond time make sure the carb intake is clean (no mice nest etc)

 

Maybe spray some light oil in the cylinders since they are dry from setting so long. Then spin it over with plugs still out. Of course check crankcase has proper oil level. 
 

Others more familiarize with the KT 17 engine can help you if you have more detailed questions. 
 

Then give poor oily horse a bath. 

Edited October 13 by oliver2-44

[c-series don 10,446]

I’d do like @oliver2-44 said. Pull the spark plugs and shoot some Marvel Mystery Oil in cylinders, then let it sit for a day or two. Looks like it also might need an axle seal, which shouldn’t be a big deal because the hub should come off relatively easily if it has been leaking oil on the axle for a while. Tractor is a 1981. My C-175 was in worse shape before I brought it back to life. 

[tmix61 90]

56 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

Nice score.

Enjoy cleaning it up and bring it back to life. 
 

Kohler changed from Series 1 to series 2 engine pressurized rod oiling design at spec 23400. So that is a Series 1 engine. Series 1 engine are good engines if used on flat land and oil kept a little over full.  On hilly ground the series 1 engine some parts got starved of oil. 
1st order of maintenance might be to jump the starter for a compression test and to listen for any rod knock. Since it has been setting a lond time make sure the carb intake is clean (no mice nest etc)

 

Maybe spray some light oil in the cylinders since they are dry from setting so long. Then spin it over with plugs still out. Of course check crankcase has proper oil level. 
 

Others more familiarize with the KT 17 engine can help you if you have more detailed questions. 
 

Then give poor oily horse a bath. 

That's not a really good thing having a series one. Because I planned on plowing with it and I have hills both sides of my driveway

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,670]

1980 was the year Wheel Horse switched from Sundstrand to Eaton hydro's. It happened between April 17 and June 4.

16650 is a 1980 serial number.

The 01-17KE01 model number used in 1980 model year carried on in 1981 model year.

All other hydro models got a new model number for the 1981 model year.

[JoeM 8,702]

9 hours ago, c-series don said:

Marvel Mystery Oil

What's in that Don?

[JoeM 8,702]

8 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

1980 was the year Wheel Horse switched from Sundstrand to Eaton hydro's

I got tricked on one of those thinking it had the eaton. The guy said it was a 79 but it had the square hood. It was an early eighty model.

Of course the Kohler was vented. 

[953 nut 61,689]

9 hours ago, tmix61 said:

not a really good thing having a series one. Because I planned on plowing with it and I have hills both sides of my driveway

That depends on how long and how steep the hills are. The rod bearings on the series one K-Twins didn't have a pressurized lubrication flow, a nozzle from the cam shaft oil flow directs a spray of oil onto the connecting rod bearings. If you are on a steep incline gravity will allow some of the spray to miss the rod journal while on the incline.

Over filling the crank case on a K-Twin will allow the crankshaft to splash some oil around but will also lead to oil burning.

  All you can do is use good common sense and try to avoid long duration operation on steep hills. 

 

[c-series don 10,446]

@JoeM Damned if I know what is in it? It’s a mystery!!! All I know is that it works. I had a small block Chevy that was seized, people told me it was junk. I filled the cylinders with MMO, every day I put a breaker bar on the crankshaft. After two weeks I got it to move a little bit. After three weeks it broke free and I got it running just fine. Anytime I store an engine or have a tractor I know I’m not going to use for a while I put it in the fuel until it smokes like crazy, then run it out of fuel, then pull the plug and shoot some in the cylinder. Smokes a bit on start up but quickly clears up. I truly believe it helps.

Edited Monday at 11:09 PM by c-series don

[peter lena 9,398]

@tmix61  terrific job on that !  glairing to me . 3rd photo down,  pto  swing clip  ?  round circle at corner  ? add a  light / medium extension spring  to that , attach to  HITCH PIN CLIP ON FRAME , circular end ?  that  simple tension , eliminates related  linkage noise / bounce , also  like  SUPER LUBE  hydraulic oil on movement / vibration areas  . pete 

[peter lena 9,398]

@953 nut    often refer to rislone zinc additive  in any  recovery engine , you want to cut engine varnish ?  its recovered a number of engines for me . run in an unknown engine on a seperate gallon of heavily treated fresh fuel , also  fresh oil and 4 ounces of  rislone zinc , bottle specks , engines , smooth out  , smoking stops , regularly refer to experimental , repetitive  problem areas . have a step by step trial  that has worked for me . another thing I  go after  is , fuel system and related fuel hose breakdown , none  of my engines smoke , and have  very quick easy starting , experiment on one of them , and add or subtract to the others . only suggestions , pete 

[tmix61 90]

12 hours ago, c-series don said:

I’d do like @oliver2-44 said. Pull the spark plugs and shoot some Marvel Mystery Oil in cylinders, then let it sit for a day or two. Looks like it also might need an axle seal, which shouldn’t be a big deal because the hub should come off relatively easily if it has been leaking oil on the axle for a while. Tractor is a 1981. My C-175 was in worse shape before I brought it back to life. 

Can the axle seal be removed and replaced without splitting the transmission?

[Gasaholic 333]

15 minutes ago, tmix61 said:

Can the axle seal be removed and replaced without splitting the transmission?

Yep! Hardest part is getting the hub off. Then it is just details like making sure the axle shaft is clean and smooth (file down the keyway ridges that build up on sides of keyway so the sharp ridges don't cut the new seal) and things like that, but other than getting the hubs off which can be a struggle (without breaking them that is) it's a fairly simple job - all the transmission gearcase seals can be replaced without splitting transmission. 

[JoeM 8,702]

1 hour ago, c-series don said:

know what is in it?

Back in the old days, the old timers ( I suppose that is some of us now) used  ATF as a motor flush. Kind of a running flush thing. They would put a quart in the engine prior to an oil change to clean it up. Says it had more detergent. I figured it did. 

Some mixed ATF with acetone 50/50 for penetrating fluid. I have some of both might give it a try. Might be close to MMO?

I really never had seized up engine. But have had some old ones that turned rough. I used Kroil oil in those and it helped. I actually used Kroil once to clean a steal gas tank with nuts. Worked okay and seemed much less aggressive than acid. Expensive tho

[tmix61 90]

12 minutes ago, Gasaholic said:

Yep! Hardest part is getting the hub off. Then it is just details like making sure the axle shaft is clean and smooth (file down the keyway ridges that build up on sides of keyway so the sharp ridges don't cut the new seal) and things like that, but other than getting the hubs off which can be a struggle (without breaking them that is) it's a fairly simple job - all the transmission gearcase seals can be replaced without splitting transmission. 

Where would I find information on getting the right size oil seal for that axle?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,670]

Go to the Wheel Horse illustrated parts list to find the original WH part number - 6449 item #9

https://www.partstree.com/models/01-17ke01-c-175-toro-garden-tractor-1980/transaxle-24/

Then go to the top of our transmission section where you will find some pined posts. Look through them for an alternate SKF/Chicago Rawhide part number which you can get from any auto jobber and Napa. There are other seal makers like National that will have a replacement for the 6449.

[Pullstart 67,731]

7 hours ago, JoeM said:

Back in the old days, the old timers ( I suppose that is some of us now) used  ATF as a motor flush. Kind of a running flush thing. They would put a quart in the engine prior to an oil change to clean it up. Says it had more detergent. I figured it did. 

Some mixed ATF with acetone 50/50 for penetrating fluid. I have some of both might give it a try. Might be close to MMO?

I really never had seized up engine. But have had some old ones that turned rough. I used Kroil oil in those and it helped. I actually used Kroil once to clean a steal gas tank with nuts. Worked okay and seemed much less aggressive than acid. Expensive tho

I’m not much of an old timer yet, but I use ATF quite often as well for fuel system and engine oil system cleaning.  

[8ntruck 8,101]

I took @Pullstart idea and added some atf to the gas in the pontoon when it had cold starting issues last year.  Solved the issue last year, and had no cold start issues this year.

l'm assuming that the added detergent in the atf de gunked the cold start enrichment circuits in the Honda carb.

[953 nut 61,689]

44 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

I’m not much of an old timer yet,

              After all, you did turn 40.         Ask your girls, they will tell you                     You're getting to be an old timer.