Need help installing belly grader on 418C

[Wheelhorse4me 1]

I'm installed a belly grader on a new to me 418C.  I thought I had the arm installed correctly, but it does not go up and down.  I have one end of arm connected to the grader.  The other end is on the right arm of the rocker shaft (1st hole).  Any help would be appreciated.

[SkyCrafter 3]

Sounds like you’re close, but something might be off with the linkage geometry or positioning. Have you checked if the arm needs to be in the second hole on the rocker shaft instead of the first? Sometimes the first hole doesn’t give enough leverage or movement. Also, make sure there’s no binding in the grader mount or linkage. A photo might help if you’re still stuck—someone here might spot it right away!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,358]

Using wrong arm on the lift bellcrank?

 

[Retired Wrencher 5,695]

@Wheelhorse4me  There should be a manual for that. I am sure some one will chime in to help. Not my area of expertise.  Enjoy the site . Much help and manuals to look at. Thanks Garry for the diagram.  

Edited Wednesday at 10:03 AM by Retired Wrencher

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,358]

You have the older grader version that is pulled but suspect it should work.

 

[squonk 43,193]

7 hours ago, Wheelhorse4me said:

I'm installed a belly grader on a new to me 418C.  I thought I had the arm installed correctly, but it does not go up and down.  I have one end of arm connected to the grader.  The other end is on the right arm of the rocker shaft (1st hole).  Any help would be appreciated.

Turn the arm around so the bend goes forward

 

Edited Wednesday at 10:37 AM by squonk

[peter lena 9,175]

@Wheelhorse4me  , often refer to OPPORTUNIC  AREAS  AS A GOLD MINE , FOR FUNCTION , first was , lift arm  reversal ,  the schematic  drawing from  @gwest_ca  shows  you all the  regularly never serviced , bronze  mounting movement points , penetrating oil makes the RUST RUN OUT , then a red aerosol spray grease , extension tube , for functional  verification of movement ease . lower dash face and shifter plate , removal is very easy . typically anything I see is  frozen in rust , usually a rusty related trail , how about  cables that don't move ? have spring assist on mine , smooth / easy. pete

[Wheelhorse4me 1]

Thanks to everyone for your input thus far.  @squonk Thank you!  The picture tells the story.  I wondered if I had the arm turned the wrong way... 

 

@peter lena do you have a photo of the spring assist?  I'm curious what size spring and how/where it is attached.

 

I was told by someone with a lot of experience to use the first rocker shaft hole highlighted in the drawing below.  Thoughts?

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,358]

The closer to the pivot point of the shaft you are the more leverage you have.

You can go farther out but will get heavier to lift.

[squonk 43,193]

Those blades are pretty light but use that hole closest to the center. 

[Wheelhorse4me 1]

You are right, the grader blade is light so I will use the hole closest to the rocker shaft.

 

Lifting the grader blade is one thing.  However, downforce is required to make the blade work, right?

 

Thanks everyone for your input!

[c-series don 9,628]

We are going to need pictures of your 418-C as they are quite rare. Plus we just like pictures of all Wheel Horses! I’m lucky enough to own one as well 👍🏻

[Handy Don 13,559]

21 hours ago, Wheelhorse4me said:

downforce is required to make the blade work, right?

 Not always--depends on what your are trying to do.

These blades work fine for spreading as smoothing loose material--grave, topsoil, sand, etc.--without a lot of down pressure.

They are not as good at loosening or moving compacted materials. 

The angle of the blade edge where it meets the ground is key: more vertical = more “spread”; more leaned back = more “dig in”. This is adjustable on big motor graders but is fixed to an “average” angle on the WH mid blades.