416-8 - Clutch Piston Replacement

[TC10284 113]

Not sure if this is the correct sub-forum, but got a newer 416-8 with model 73420 and serial 4900182. I need the piston for the idler on the drive belt side. The one I have is shot and not doing anything. 

Number 53 here:

https://www.partstree.com/models/73420-416-8-toro-garden-tractor-sn-049000001-049999999-1994/clutch-brake-and-speed-control-linkage-6/

 

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-78-3240/

 

I can't see paying $210 for a piston. Does anyone have an equivalent? 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1jMgvyjQ1pAQ9N2L9 

[Ed Kennell 42,179]

Most replace those with a coil spring.

[JoeM 8,435]

E Bay has them for 110$ but I would call Wheel Horse Parts and More, they carry the seat cylinders for $30 maybe able to get the one you need.

Questions about your tractor and the parts needed please text (507) 213-3115 

Hours: M-F 8:00 am - 5:00 pm  Sat & Sun Closed

[lynnmor 7,858]

If you want to stay with a gas spring, Google gas spring to find all kinds of options many of which are short money.

[953 nut 60,353]

Lowell @wheelhorseman has the spring for $ 12.00 plus shipping.          https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/1014-spring-for-wheel-horse/

[TC10284 113]

Is it just the spring I need, or do I have to make any modifications or have other parts for the spring to attach, or just use the existing holes? 

[953 nut 60,353]

Spring attaches to the eye of the cotter key on the clutch linkage and the other end connects to the little ear on the rear axle.

[JoeM 8,435]

Remember if you eliminate the dampener shock, there is less control with the clutch engagement. What I am trying to say, your foot is the only control and someone who is used to running with the shock will be surprised when the clutch pedal is released. 

Just throwing that in.

[peter lena 9,309]

@TC10284  the original set up , requires some functional detailing , the piston is known for failure and erratic function , agree with @Ed Kennell  on the spring replacement , interesting  no mention at all  about  lubrication to motion / movement points ? typically  there is rust  in movement areas , that idler pulley is known for  rough erratic function , kroil penetrating oil or 3-1 penetrating oil , really gets into  rusty spots , like to follow up with red aerosol grease , extension tube for spot on grease assurance .  do yourself a favor , remove the shifter plate , 4 phillips screws , knobs , get after the lift lever  side bronze , bushings , any related point , get some penetrating oil into the lift lever top squeeze button , to lubricate lower spring area , love to recover , previous , neglect /  make it better , make he rust run out , pete   

[953 nut 60,353]

11 hours ago, JoeM said:

if you eliminate the dampener shock, there is less control with the clutch engagement

Don't have to remove the shock, just add the spring so the clutch will tension the belt better.

[Racinbob 11,989]

17 hours ago, TC10284 said:

Is it just the spring I need, or do I have to make any modifications or have other parts for the spring to attach, or just use the existing holes? 

 

Just the spring. Holes are there and no other parts needed. Do a search on the Flea for 108035. These tractors have worked fine for decades with just that spring and they still do. 

 

Edited May 24 by Racinbob

[JoeM 8,435]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

Don't have to remove the shock

He said it is shot, could leave it on tho it is not damping the travel.,