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About TC10284

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Wheel Horse Information

  • favoritemodel
    520-H, 414-8, 312-8

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lexington, NC

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  1. TC10284

    520H Possibly not charging?

    I'll try that most likely tomorrow. I already have replacement connectors, so I guess I can go ahead and swap them out. I did use my voltmeter and connected the B+ on the regulator to the positive on the battery WITHOUT the redwire connected to the terminal and saw 12.79V. Although I don't recall the voltmeter changing to a more normal range.
  2. TC10284

    520H Possibly not charging?

    OK, I finally had some time (and weather nice enough) to run the tests. On the alternator output test, here are my results: Test 1 - 12.5v battery Test 2 - 11.97v to 12.04v (Step 3 is checking connections and wiring) Test 4: 15v at idle 1800rpm 44v at 3600rpm Additionally, I swapped the regulator rectifier from another 520H and am seeing the same results. I did find one of the main red wires looks like it had a lot of resistance on it, and melted the plastic around it. Pics are here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMwYVSzPlpS-l_BBgJtB2wq0DxCXKHQYnA0EcOXphKgrDPuQF5D6jPEr5hoJXavwA?key=dTB0LTF4V084YU9FOXA3MnpaVXRwejBXY2l6SGNR I'm at a loss at this point as to what could be causing it.
  3. TC10284

    520H Possibly not charging?

    Yep, I did. Sorry for asking a question that was probably already answered in that manual. Didn't know if anyone had any other experiences with this issue is all.
  4. I have a 1991 41-20OE02 520-H. I started it up yesterday to let it run a bit. Noticed the voltmeter was showing in the red. Yet it turned over fine and ran fine. Let it idle for about 10min before revving it up. Voltmeter stayed the same whether it was at idle or wide open. Voltmeter appears to be working, as when you shut off the engine, the gauge drops down to below 10v like it should. Connected a voltmeter to the battery terminals and I'm getting a solid 12.5 to 12.6v whether idling or wide open. Is there something wrong with my stator, or wiring? Any way to test to make sure it's charging and engine is not running entirely off the battery?
  5. TC10284

    520H High RPM

    Update: Got the replacement ignition rotor. Installed, put everything back together and it fired up perfectly! Thanks as always, guys!
  6. TC10284

    520H High RPM

    Yeah, I actually wondered about that when I took it off. I wasn't paying attention when I took it off (the second time), but I THINK it may have been flipped around. I didn't think about it until after I had put up all my tools. And after I had taken apart the rotor to look at the magnets. I asked myself if I remembered seeing the "Flywheel side" text facing me and I don't think I do remember seeing it. Does anyone know if the magnets in the rotor has to be facing a certain polarity? I ordered a new one anyway, just in case.
  7. TC10284

    520H High RPM

    After a little more testing today, I have a feeling it's the ignition rotor. Is there a way to test these things? The magnets inside seem fine.
  8. TC10284

    520H High RPM

    Once again, you guys were right on the money! Took me a while, but I finally had time to work on this and replace the flyball spacer. I had one that came from another P220G that has the extended tab. This one apparently did not. Hopefully you can see the pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/BEpaNvzxBhyYp45s7 Let me know if not. Anyway, put everything back together. Made sure to reinstall all governor balls, C clip on cam shaft, put the timing cover pin aligned with the governor cup. Made sure to put the key back on the shaft and reinstall the ignition rotor. Put everything else back on. Tried to start and it will not run. Turns over fine. Pulled plugs. Both plugs seem to get fire. Both plugs seem to be getting fuel (I think I smell it). Tried squirting some gas into carb. Still no start. At one point, it backfired kind of loudly when I kept turning it over and unspent fuel got pretty heavy coming out of the muffler. Not sure why it won't fire and run at this point. Last time this happened on a different 520H, I had to replace the ignition rotor. Note that this tractor ran prior to the work. Although it over-revved after 15-20min of running due to the flyball spacer. .
  9. Does anyone have a PDF or link for the factory jet and idle screw settings for the carb on this 312-8? Pics of the carb can be found here: https://imgtc.com/a/7kbkbk1 I may just need to take it off completely and have it cleaned/soaked. I could only get it to run for maybe 20-30sec with squirting fuel in the carb. I have some replacement fuel line to replace that when it isn't so nasty and muddy out.
  10. Was finally able to work on this without sinking into the mud (not literally). Was able to get the PTO rod replaced. Didn't have time to test it before it got dark though.
  11. Is there anything that needs to be removed to be able to access the lever besides the battery?
  12. My issue is that I cannot physically get to the key with pliers or needle nose pliers (part 12 in the diagram above) at the end of the shaft to remove it. Maybe I don't have the right kind? I am removing it because re-threading the threads, along with WD40/PBBlaster did not help. It was so rusted that it snapped the rod in two at the threads when trying to free up the trunnion. I have an extra one on a parts 520H that is is good condition, but am having difficulty figuring out how to get either one of them removed.
  13. Right, I can see it, but I cannot access it easily. Is there a trick?
  14. TC10284

    520H High RPM

    Can the process in your "FIX" link be used with the original plastic flyball spacer and loctite?