Alrashid2 382 #1 Posted December 31, 2024 Hey guys, thanks for the advice here! Did a ton of reading here on previous posts as well as other discussions/sites online and I'm just more confused at this point. I am thinking of getting some tire chains for my Wheel Horse 312-8. I'd like to try plowing my driveway with it this year. However, I will also be using this through the yard and wooded property moving firewood. I've got so many questions! Do they make tire chains that are easily removeable? I was hoping I could just install chains quickly before plowing during a snow storm, then remove when done plowing If that isn't possible, do tire chains do more damage to a muddy yard? I was worried the chains would leave bit ruts in the yard when muddy What size do I need? My rear tires are 22x7.50-12 What's the cheapest place to get these? Amazon? Any vendors here? I read somewhere something about 2 vs 4 link chains? No idea what that means? Thanks guys!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrc 953 #2 Posted December 31, 2024 2 link means that there is a cross chain every 2nd link on the diameter chains. 4 link means there is a cross chain every 4th link on the diameter chains. 4 link yields a bumpy ride because there is such a big gap between cross chains. 2 link are generally a little more money but, worth it in my opinion 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,716 #3 Posted December 31, 2024 Do I recall you have an asphalt drive. I believe @Ed Kennell is a fan of the rubber Chains for asphalt drives. I usually don’t have snow to contend with in Central Texas. ButI keep chains and rear weights on my C160 since it my dirt work and general moving thing tractor. In summer they don’t mess up my irrigated yard unless I spin the tires. If I spin them anything would spin and do grass damage. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JimSraj 511 #4 Posted December 31, 2024 1 hour ago, mrc said: 2 link means that there is a cross chain every 2nd link on the diameter chains. 4 link means there is a cross chain every 4th link on the diameter chains. 4 link yields a bumpy ride because there is such a big gap between cross chains. 2 link are generally a little more money but, worth it in my opinion Not only less bumpy ride but better traction as well. I recently scored a really good 2 link set for $25 that I now have on my 312-8. Keep a watch on CL and Marketplace. With some patience I think you will find a set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 5,787 #5 Posted December 31, 2024 (edited) I have a short driveway. I have been blowing first then plow. The plow has a solid link which is great for more pavement contact by pushing down on handle a little. I like a clean driveway so no ice can build up also so this way I do not even use chains but I do use wheel weight. Just my . Edited December 31, 2024 by Retired Wrencher Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,408 #6 Posted December 31, 2024 I plow three flat concrete driveways with my C-105. No chains. Have done it for years with minimal slip. Added a weight box to back end last year - 200 lbs - makes a difference. Steel chains will damage asphalt drives and will mark concrete drives. Go with 2 link. You will not want to take them on and off often... no fun. @Ed Kennell can advise on rubber chains... I have not used them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Racinbob 11,929 #7 Posted December 31, 2024 I've always used 2-link steel until a few years ago but I've switched to rubber to save our asphalt drive. They work as good or better than the steel in the snow. The blade stays on the 76 for summer use and I'd say the same for the rubber in the dirt. As far as the difficulty installing them it really isn't bad. he first time with new chains I fit them to that particular tire and from there on out that's the only tire it gets used on. Any extra links are removed and they are tagged when I remove them. I let the air out and get them tight then reinflate. I have never needed those spring tensioners. I'd say 10-15 minutes per set max. after the first install. I've never seen two link rubber chains. You could add the extra links but because of the surface area I don't think it would do well. Look closely at the two different brands I have. The ones on the left have bolt on links. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyToro Jr. 1,963 #8 Posted December 31, 2024 8 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: Do I recall you have an asphalt drive. I believe @Ed Kennell is a fan of the rubber Chains for asphalt drives. I usually don’t have snow to contend with in Central Texas. ButI keep chains and rear weights on my C160 since it my dirt work and general moving thing tractor. In summer they don’t mess up my irrigated yard unless I spin the tires. If I spin them anything would spin and do grass damage. On my C-145 I keep rear chains and weights on all year round. Just as @oliver2-44 said they’ll only really do damage when they spin. Other then that you can’t even really tell you even have chains on! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,013 #9 Posted December 31, 2024 @midpack has a set for sale on here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,988 #10 Posted December 31, 2024 For plowing a paved driveway the rubber chains work much better than the steel chains and they don't damage the pavement. You can see when plowing the drive wheels are actually on a bare pavement and steel chains on bare pavement have very little traction. With steel chains, I could never push this heavy snow up my steep driveway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,988 #11 Posted December 31, 2024 11 hours ago, Alrashid2 said: Do they make tire chains that are easily removeable? Installing or removing chains is a 15 minute chore. I lay both chains over the top of the tire, then pull forward till the end of the chains are at the bottom rear of the tire where they are easy to reach. Then I connect the inside chain using one of these threaded connector links. Then I connect the outside using the tightener hook. The size is determined by the width of the tire. Each link is 1" in length. I like one link plus the connector hook to be on the side if the tire. So if your tire measures 7.5" wide, i would use a 9 or 10 link cross chain. The side chains are easily adjusted to fit the tire by cutting to length or extending with the threaded connector links. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MainelyWheelhorse 1,513 #12 Posted December 31, 2024 I’ve got chains that I use on my 308 to plow my dirt driveway. I got them with my 312 and they are supposed to fit the wider tires of the 312. I put them on the narrower 308 tires that are the size of yours. Besides running a bungee cord for tension though them and securing down the extra length. They have been fine and the difference between with and without is very noticeable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,670 #13 Posted December 31, 2024 While I leave these chains on all the time they were designed for easy mounting do not have to move the vehicle to install. (In Europe many mountain passes have chain up rules that is what these were designed for easy on and off.) Used them on our 1981 Honda Civic while we were over there.(Old Civics had 12" wheels...) The zig zag pattern gives excellent constant traction and a smooth ride. Classic German engineering. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D_Mac 9,302 #14 Posted December 31, 2024 I personally don't use chains when plowing. I have wheel weights font and back. I don't really slip on the back tires but I do slide on front tires when turning sometimes. I can deal with it but others put chains on front tires. I prefer not to take chains on and off so I leave them off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,988 #15 Posted December 31, 2024 Weight is your friend when looking for traction. Rear weight is really needed when you have a 300 lb. snow blower hanging over the front that is trying to lift the rear wheels. Filled tires, wheel weights, 200 lb weight rack and a 200 lb operator helps to keep the rears pressed to the ground. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites