Jump to content
Horse Newbie

New to Me 1977 Wheel Horse C-160

Recommended Posts

Horse Newbie
36 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

We had a great time yesterday afternoon, we need to do it more often. 

Yes we do !… I thoroughly enjoyed driving your Toyota truck.

Next time we need to drive some tractors.😆

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ineedanother

Nice work, and I love that truck @Lee1977! I had a '78 (specialty auto after-market 4wd, prior to factory 4wd from Toyota) and wish I still had it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

I got an email from ISaveTractors saying my order had shipped. Can’t wait to get the K341 put back together…

Edited by Horse Newbie
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Can’t wait to get the K341 put back together…

 

Then you can bring it back and we'll rewire the whole thing!

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

So waiting on parts for the K341, but trying to think ahead…

I was thinking 16 gauge wire for wiring the 1977 C-160, but I seen 14 gauge wire on the shelve right beside the 16 gauge.

 

Would you guys go ahead and use 14 gauge for a heavier wire and possible better current flow ?

 

UPDATE…

Parts for the K341 from ISAVETRACTORS just arrived…

 

Progress to be made !

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine

When I build my own wiring harnesses I use 4 or 6 gauge for the battery cables, minimum 14 on everything else. Ignition switch down to battery is 12 gauge.

All FULL COPPER wire.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
31 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Would you guys go ahead and use 14 gauge for a heavier wire and possible better current flow ?

 

Feel free, it’s your tractor, but the recommended gauges specified by Kohler and WH are more than adequate. Attention paid to using well-attached connectors, though, will be worth your extra effort.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

Attention paid to using well-attached connectors, though, will be worth your extra effort.

 

Agreed.

 

Crimp-on connectors are ok for plugs, but otherwise I prefer to solder and shrink wrap terminal connectors. That way you never have to go back to them. The positive battery cable terminal will corrode just as bad as the battery post, and you can't get to it to clean it once crimped. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Treepep
On 10/22/2023 at 9:12 PM, Horse Newbie said:

Today I took a little road trip to @kpinnc’s

stables and carried the K341 with me to remove the balance gears.

@Lee1977 (Don) dropped by too. The balance gears had a little slop in them but Kevin said they weren’t real bad. I wanted them out regardless.

We also cleaned the valve stems up and lapped the valves.

When a few gaskets come in that I ordered I will begin putting the K341 back together. First the carb will get a cleaning.

 

Don let me drive his 1980 Hi-Lux 4x4 Toyota Pick Up to Bojangles for some grub and it was a real treat as I had not driven a stick in a long time. It took me back to when I was driving my 1981 Hi-Lux 4x4.

Thanks a lot Kevin and Don !

IMG_3158.jpeg

IMG_3159.jpeg

IMG_3160.jpeg

IMG_2169.jpeg

IMG_2165.jpeg

IMG_2164.jpeg

IMG_2168.jpeg

IMG_2167.jpeg

 

 

My grandfather (dads dad) would be considered a hoarder I guess however it was all usable mechanical stuff so one could argue differently.  He had a collection of toyota and datsun trucks along with a lot of old volkswagons.  Sadly when he passed the siblings liquidated most of it.  If only I could save just one...Very cool little truck!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie
4 hours ago, Handy Don said:

the recommended gauges specified by Kohler and WH are more than adequate

What is the recommended gauge wire ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

So today while waiting for the colonoscopy prep medicine to work, I put the K341 oil pan, flywheel, and oil dipstick tube back on. Cleaned the stator before reattaching…

Had to make a dipstick tube gasket…

I had to drop things and run a few times…😆

71995457178__3709842D-0411-493D-8AD1-1A0EA8963612.jpeg

IMG_3166.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

What is the recommended gauge wire ?

 

I believe it is 14 from the factory in the mid 70s. 

I use a 7 conductor trailer wire for the differing colors. 

 

I buy a separate roll of 12 gauge for the ignition switch to battery wire.  

 

 

Definitely agree with the extra attention being put into the ends and heat shrink although I don't solder my harnesses.  I use good quality connections and try to be sure all ends are sealed.  

 

I've read on boat and plane forums that a soldered connection can be a breaking point for the wire.  Particularly if poorly done. 

I'm not by a long shot halfway decent at soldering so I stick to known skills. 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

Okay, so it’s been awhile since I messed with my C-160. I finally got my welder/ blacksmith/ artist/machinist to weld the tab back on the front axle kingpin ( that’s what I call it).

It had some worn places on it. I know there’s a lot of you fellows who would not take this approach to the repair, but I decided to just fill the worn spots on the shaft with some JB Weld. 
I think it will go another 40 years or so with this repair.

I know there will be plenty of filing and sanding to get it somewhat back round…

 

IMG_3802.jpeg

IMG_3803.jpeg

IMG_3804.jpeg

IMG_3805.jpeg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

Not planning a refresh or restore on this C-160…

was cleaning and true to my nature I started taking things off to clean hard to reach places.

Well I was taking off the height adjustment lever and when I did a little corner of the cast iron base piece fell off.

Would you guys try to get my welder friend to try to weld the corner back, or maybe just tap the hole deeper and use a longer bolt ?

The hole already goes about an inch deep so I wouldn’t have to drill it.

IMG_3806.jpeg

IMG_3807.jpeg

IMG_3808.jpeg

IMG_3809.jpeg

IMG_3810.jpeg

IMG_3811.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

Also found a stress/ metal fatigue crack in the dash tower where the base piece for the height adjuster bolts on.

Guess I will have my friend weld the crack up…

IMG_3812.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

I have a few questions concerning the brake band and the small metal plate that bolts on top of the brake band to the cast piece on side of tranny…

The way I took the piece off, it has a gap and doesn’t bolt down flat… the cast piece on side of tranny holds it up.

You can see in the picture…

But if I spin it around then it lays flat , but then more of it hangs out toward the left side of the tractor.

Would you bolt it flat, as long as it doesn’t interfere with anything ?

Next, I noticed the brake band pad has cracks… use or order a new pad ?

IMG_3816.jpeg

IMG_3818.jpeg

IMG_3819.jpeg

IMG_3820.jpeg

IMG_3821.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977

I still have that front spindle that you need, You just have to come after it. You were about 12 miles from my house when you were over at Goldhill a couple weeks back.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

the height adjustment lever and when I did a little corner of the cast iron base piece fell off.

Would you guys try to get my welder friend to try to weld the corner back, or maybe just tap the hole deeper and use a longer bolt ?

You could try to tap that but it may be cast iron. Still doable but special care. 

 

I'd do that instead of welding it.  

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Horse Newbie said:

Also found a stress/ metal fatigue crack in the dash tower where the base piece for the height adjuster bolts on.

Guess I will have my friend weld the crack up…

 

 

Definitely repair that. 

I've never seen one but I understand that's fairly common. A LOT of stress there.  

 

 

 

 

25 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Would you bolt it flat, as long as it doesn’t interfere with anything ?

 

 

Yes.  

 

 

25 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Next, I noticed the brake band pad has cracks… use or order a new pad ?

 

 

DO NOT use that shoe. The cracks are from heat stress and age. 

Reinstalling it would  "get you by"  but you're only exacerbating the issue.  

 

If you need shoe material McMaster Carr sells it. ...by the foot (?)

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie
15 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

I still have that front spindle that you need, You just have to come after it. You were about 12 miles from my house when you were over at Goldhill a couple weeks back.

You tracking me Don?…

Guess I need to stay off Fakebook…image.png.018c3cb333ddcb9d96765696fd4de9a3.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie
11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

If you need shoe material McMaster Carr sells it. ...by the foot (?)

Who’s the brake pad man on Redsquare… would rather support a member…

  • Heart 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977
1 minute ago, Horse Newbie said:

You tracking me Don?…

Guess I need to stay off Fakebook…image.png.018c3cb333ddcb9d96765696fd4de9a3.png

You provided pictures right here on Redsquare, I don't do Facebook.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Who’s the brake pad man on Redsquare… would rather support a member…

 

@rmaynard

Our friend Bob.  

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie
14 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

You could try to tap that but it may be cast iron. Still doable but special care. 

 

I'd do that instead of welding it.

Thanks Eric,

That substantiates what my welder/ machinist says..

and with you being a masta mo-can-ic, I went ahead and tapped the 5/16-18 hole and will use a longer bolt upon reassembly.

19 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Definitely repair that. 

I've never seen one but I understand that's fairly common. A LOT of stress there

He said cast can easily be tapped…

just use plenty of lube and go easy. Said it may dull the tap a bit. Will definitely be welding that stress crack…

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

5/16-18

Get a grade 8 bolt in there too. Extra strength won't hurt. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse Newbie

Guys,

I hate to ask so many little questions, but I don’t know things… what are the little bushings called that go on certain shafts where they pass through sheet metal pieces?…

Like in this particular case, the PTO engagement lever going through the steering wheel tower…

and shouldn’t it be like a ring/ washer type thingy with a shoulder?

Hmmm… would it be called a shoulder bushing ?

IMG_3823.jpeg

IMG_3824.jpeg

IMG_3825.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...