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Found 4 results

  1. Duramax7man7

    T-WH 418-6.. Worth it to purchase?

    Hello gang, Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered. It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago... With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end... I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off. There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750... Thoughts and experience? Thanks. Andrew C.
  2. I have discovered some aftermarket parts that seem to be out of place and or incorrectly installed. The manuals I am able to find don''t really help me out to much or at least I have not been able to understand them well enough to diagnose my potential problem. The engine runs well, it seems to charge correctly but I am wondering if I should correct the poor work that was done by the PO. Also the coil (not shown) is nothing like the pictures I have seen in the parts catalog. Its more of a cylindrical coil like you see in an automotive application. It is just sort of floating around in the space where the factory coil SHOULD be. As far as the grey wire that goes to the tach (did a continuity test) I tried jumping between the contacts of what I think is the regulator and the tach wire and just got sparks (I tried both black wire contacts) so I am wondering if all this aftermarket stuff means that I have no way to get a signal to the tack and if thats the case what other problems might this cause. If you could send a picture of the correct set up, and any warnings I would appreciate it.
  3. While I've got my GT 14 up on floor stands....at the back end anyway......attempting to deal with some very stuck wheel hubs, I'm looking around for other things which could use some attention. Given the time of year, its the perfect situation to give some areas that may have been neglected or even half-assed to work when things were of a more pressing nature during mowing season. Let's see.......rear axle seals, a change of tranny fluid and filter, belts perhaps..........oh yeah.......lest I forget that nagging rectifier I've had some trouble with last spring when the battery wouldn't charge and the electric clutch refused to work because of low voltage. I discovered one of the three rectifier male spades about 2/3rds broken off and the wire connecting it dangling in thin air. Yeah, that's definitely too long an arc to jump voltage across, be it AC or DC. I fiddled with trying to get the spade to accept a female terminal.......but there just wasn't enough "meat" left for the connection to work. As usual, I was pressed to get the yard done, and didn't take the time to research and seek out a new replacement rectifier. Somehow I managed to solder the wire lead to what little was left of the spade.......and remarkably it held all season. Amazing. Anyway, I need to address this problem permanently and replace the rectifier and the terminal leads which attach to it. Nothing in any of the WH literature I have gives the slightest clue about a rectifier specifically......not in diagram, not in the parts list......and nowhere else have I read what that part is and how to identify a replacement. One would almost assume there isn't one from researching literature. But we all at least causally know, that's not true. You gotta have a rectifier to charge that battery or you won't be running very long. My only minor hint in the owner's manual comes from the electrical info listed on page 5 under Specifications. The following info is given: "Changing System: 10 Amp. Alternator w/Solid State Regulator" So, I'm going to assume, the GT 14 originally came equipped with a 10 amp rectifier. Seems reasonable and I'm relatively sure the one on the tractor is probably the original. At some point during the 35 years I have had this tractor, the original 14 hp Kohler and its integral connecting rod decided to leave the building, so to speak. End result: destroyed block and crank. Remedy: a new 16 hp Kohler K341 installed. Hooked up to the same original rectifier. Ran like a charm for years.......until a spade gives up a significant portion of its length. Fast forward to 2/5/16: What do I replace the ailing rectifier with? 10 amp? 15amp? another rating? What brand? From whom? Anything special or noteworthy to be aware of in my quest? I'm wandering and babbling a bit, but if anyone here can help lead me to the Promised Land of Replacement Rectifiers, I would be most grateful and appreciative. Steve
  4. Hoping for some help, advice, anything to make my months-long mission to get my 520-H running a success story. Inherited the tractor from the previous owner of my home. He rarely used it -- preferred his zero-turn -- and advised that I always keep it on the float charger when not in use. I used it for one month's worth of cuts last summer, and then began having problems. At first, the engine was surging. It would fluctuate from high to low rpm with the choke off. However, if I played with the choke (thereby getting way too much fuel and oil into my system), it would run for at least the rest of that cut. After having to keep it running with the choke, it eventually stopped turning over AT ALL. I did the general maintenance: changed both plugs, dropped the oil, drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter, removed all of the visible (and accessible) electrical connections and cleaned them up. Bought a new battery as well, and the tractor started right up. Sounded better than ever. For one cut. By the end of the cut, I had to start messing with the choke again to keep it running. So, I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter (because it was making a strange knocking sound), cleaned the (new-ish) plugs, bench tested the solenoid, changed the solenoid. When I connected the battery and went to start, I got (what sounded like) very little power to the starter. Loud clicking/rattling sounds ensued, so I brought the batt to Autozone to check the juice. It was at 50%, and it was only one month old. They charged it, and when I reconnected the batt...nada. Nothing. The same old clicking, metal-thrashing-like sound/s. I've tried to jump the solenoid directly -- same result. I've bypassed the solenoid and put all connections directly to the starter -- same result. I've downloaded as many Wheel Horse PDFs as I could find, including the demys guide. Now, I'm thinking about the regulator. Thinking about it as it sits in front of my laptop. It's an Onan 14v 20a. Two ACs and one B+ connections. I'm really hoping it's not the stator and/or the starter. So, any advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated. I have experience with small engines from my years taking apart and racing dirt bikes, but things are just a bit more challenging to access with this beast. But, from EVERYTHING that I have read/heard, a working/running WH will be well worth all of my effort. Sorry for the long post. I am an English teacher : ) -O
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