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Showing results for tags '550'.
Found 11 results
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Well I got it on my buld table and started the tear down. Only thing getting in my way rite now is the roll pin in the steering wheel is locked and some one broke a punch off it the other side ! But my snap,on man says he can get me a bit to drill it out. This was a one owner and man it show it ! Everything is solid and not worn out like most you see. Also being in a shed for 30+ years helped. Can someone tell me how to find the year on this or if its a 400 or 550 . Here are some pics. I will keep you all posted if you like.
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well some previous identification led us to this possibly being a early 400 suburban due to the hood and its lack of pluged hole for the 550. but as I cleaned her up I found this number on the cast....coincidence or does it mean what it says?? not sure my brain is confusing me... one manual sais they used tranny 5010 my tranny doesn't say that... they made 400 401 502 and 550 but I don't find any tractors that are a 501??
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Are new throttle and choke cables available for 1960 suburban? Last thing I need on this resto. Old ones are pretty rusty. Thank you.
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Pics first What's left of the decal Ok lets start with these if you need some other view let Mr know and I'Lo get them. Thanks for the help
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I bought this 1960 400 from Taycotrains a couple years back now. I was missing a couple of the usual suspects, belt guard, throttle controls... I tracked down what I needed here and there and with the help of a couple RS members. Last fall I finally got around to disassembling the tractor and started to freshen things up. Currently I don't have access to a sand blaster so I used a combination of e-tank, chemical stripper sanding and wire brushes to get the parts down to clean metal for new paint. I've replaced some hardware as needed or just for personal preference. At the show this year I picked up a pair of '61 cast foot rests and cast brake pedal. There where two pieces that needed some repairs. First the hood had torn in two places where the rear tank strap was spot welded and second the hood stand was cut up at some point to accommodate a different engine. Learning as I went, I managed to weld the cracks from the tank straps without burning through the hood and when I was done (after I wiped the sweat from my face and unclenched my teeth) decided I didn't want to do any more welding on that thin original metal. One morning while having a coffee and perusing the forums I stumbled on Duke's RJ Hood stand modifications and decided I would do something similar. First, since I'm still tying to learn to weld, I wasn't going to modify an original part. I needed to build a RJ style hood stand that I could bolt onto the frame, then I could add some hood support and maybe even hang the tank from this structure instead of damaging the hood again. This is what I have so far...
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The tractor as it sat when I first started to tear it apart to do the restoration. A friend had given me this tractor after his son had decided he no longer had a desire to keep it and put any money into it. It came with the orginal paperwork showing it had been purchased by a Catholic Church in Saratoga Springs New York to do work in their cematary. The tractor was originally used as a mower the ARK loader was added a year later along with the Brantley backhoe. -
Thanks everyone for a quick lesson on these tractors. It helped very much when buying this one. So here it is. Looks to be a really good original. No paint underneath this paint. No decals appear to have been taped off. I think it does have the lauson engine on it still. Have not had it running yet. I will be needing to find the rest of the air cleaner and a muffler shield? Will probably put the smaller wheels back on the rear and leave this one as it is for awhile. Took a long time to get it looking like this.
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found these #on tranny any idea what they are a23-0 and 3501
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any help will be nice ty
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My 551 had a brandy new H60 Tecumseh bolted to the frame when I got it but it had never been hooked up or run. It then sat for 25 years in a dry basement. I've gotten it running but now have a clutch issue. I've adjusted the clutch, brake rod and clutch finger by the ops manual, made sure all pulleys align, but cannot put it in gear with the engine running. The trans pulley turns so easily it just never stops even though the belt is loose with the idler disengaged - or even removed! The belt looks new and is correct (WH #1569). 551 pictures I seen on this site show the idler pulley and trans pulley about the same diameter. My idler is 3" and and the trans pulley 4". The belt guard fits well. What am I missing? The trans pulley would have to be stopped to put it in gear and that ain't happenin.
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When I picked up my 1960 Suburban 550, the main drive belt would not disengage when I pressed on the clutch pedal. I took the belt off and it ended up being a 28" belt which is 1" smaller than the factory 29". Yesterday I purchased the correct 29" belt and installed it but it still will not disengage. If I start the tractor in gear while pressing the clutch pedal, the engine drive pulley will not spin the belt, but If I release the clutch pedal and then press it again, the belt will not stop spinning making it impossible to change gears. So is the belt routing incorrect or am I missing some parts here???
