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Well, I did another Work Horse over. This one I will use weekly at my Rental property. This started out as repairing the shifting linkage and brakes. While waiting on parts, I degreased it and thought, I might as well touch up the frame paint on the frame. Then I took the sheet metal off and bead blasted it. It now has base coat clear coat paint. All tires are used and in good shape for now. I chose not to fill in the rust pitting with body filler since it is going to be used and didn't want to get more time and money into it. So it has character, looks decent and will continue to work.

Finally got my WH leaf vacuum functional, and was out doing our lawn. Stopped to take a picture and a thought stuck me.. The tractor is an 83 WorkHorse GT1848, with a 1988 414-8 engine (using a 1969 starter motor), and rear wheels from a Bolens tube frame. The deck is a 1986 42SD with cast iron 60's era spindles and Double-D pulleys. The leaf vacuum is a 1972 model, with a 1984 Kawasaki FA210 JohnDeere leaf vacuum motor (of which the fuel pump failed, so it's using an antiquated Tillotson pump off my snowmobile), with a 70s era PeCo impeller housing .. using a semi modern Cyclone Rake impeller. All tied together with the mower deck boot off a 32" cut WH A-81 rear engine mower, which coincidentally fits the 42"SD perfectly. ..If the women don't find you handsome, they could at least find you handy..

The old owner stopped by to visit “old red” as she used to call it. She took it for a ride down the road and had a blast ! 😁 We sent her dad a video of her wheelie and now he wants it back.😲😲 This was her grandfathers tractor and after his passing her dad gave it to her. She mowed with it for awhile. She got a new mower and offer it to me. It was a rusty hulk back then, about 15 yrs ago.

Picked up a 656 at a local auction today. Probably paid to much.

Just an update, I put the OTR Lawn Trac 24x12.00-12 rear tires on my 520H and they fit pretty good. they measure right at 23" diameter on the 8.5" 520h rims with 10psi in them. To be as accurate as possible, I use a level when I measure from the top of the tire to the garage floor. I also changed the front tires to the Vredestein V61 tire in the 170/60-8 (16x6.50-8) size. The V61's are right at 16" with 15psi on the factory 520H front rims. In an attempt to get the highest cut possible from the 60" deck, I also replaced the 8" deck wheels with some 10" deck wheels from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-x-2-1-2-half-inch-solid-rubber-tire-35459.html). In the end I got what I was trying to achieve: a 4" cut from the 60" deck (measured at the chute with the blade perpendicular to the tractor frame). If not using the 60" deck, I would have used an 18x8.00 front tire. As it is, the front tires are about an inch away from the leading edge of the 60" deck. The 24" rear tires may rub the deck during extreme articulation of the deck, but for a relatively smooth yard it should't be a problem. If using a 48" deck, I'm certain the tires would rub on the height adjustment sector on the deck. Not perfect but I'm happy and out of ideas without fabricating. -Scott

Looks like we may have three to display next year!

I bought this 702 that I call "the closest living relative" a while back and put in in the basement next to the washer and dryer. Got tired of going to the other garage for parts to fix my wife's Dad's 702 we were using all year long. Just like AMC, there has been a laundry basket on the hood from time to time. Bill

my son stopped by tonight and we just couldn’t wait till tmw. Got the belt situation figured out. I put on a 63” belt with the jack shaft in the full rearward position. We found out that the engine mounts were at the full forward position. We slid the engine back and the 35” belt disengages now. We tucked the wiring in and pulled the cover on the voltage regulater and found a set of points burnt. Cleaned them up with a point file and the gen light is now out! We’re charging! I’ll meter it out tmw. I’ve got a lil wiring to fix up. My son ran it up and down the road. One headlight was actually working. We drained the trans and there’s a magnetic drain plug!! The fluid was full of bronze but otherwise great. I’m guessing that’s the axle bushings. I hope I can replace those without opening the trans. There was no evidence of moisture at all! There was no gear oil smell to it but it was gear oil. It maybe the original oil. Refilled it and I went for my ride but no headlight. Found out the headlight wire shorted out on the grille. Seems with the engine in the full forward position had rubbed the headlight wire thru on the air cleaner we never checked that wire. That was probably the mystery load we had @JBall when we had it on the WH. ☹️ Also!!! There’s no fuses on that circuit except 2 55yr old headlight bulbs. ☹️☹️ Check all of your wires!!!! It runs great and drives well. My leather brake band isn’t thick enough but does work for now. I still can’t figure out how the parking brake lever is supposed to be setup but I’m going to keep at it. I’m close. 😁 I’ll post some more pictures tmw. Here’s it’s very first ride in who knows how long. 22004AD5-0177-411C-996A-8D5D910A63C1.MOV

Thank you! Looks like it has adapter. Off to college when the rims and original rally wheels were installed. I replaced all of the wiring changed oils and got the wonky steering wheel off.

Welded up the rim for the dual on the 1054. Need to get longer bolts for mounting it. Then get the tire mounted.

Clamps made and bolted on, little paint and a tire.

Finally got my little horse hauler all put back together!

You ain’t kidding!! Cleaned right up without a kit. It starts up instantly and runs great!!😇 I had to pull the steel line between the fuel pump and carb and swap in a new one. It’s got a very cool choke plate. I hope it stays together. 😲😁

1990 312-8, with 607 hrs. Any guesses to the "HRS" left in the ole girl???

My wife tells me I hijacked Bianca thred. I am new to this so I will pre apologize. I just acquired my fathers 1969 W.H. gt 14. We did a mechanical restore in the eighties. It has the hood. Looking to restore again. It has been sitting in a carport for 18 years. Cleaned lines, flushed gas, new battery and plug and fired right up. Pretty excited

And the anti hoarders say if you ain't used it in a year get rid of it RIGHT , this is why I, we never get rid of anything, at least tractor related eric j

Been smelling gas in the garage for a week. Didn't see any stains on the concrete or puddles. This morning I opened the overhead door and could smell it from 100 ft. away. Found the leak in the C-160 gas tank. Thought it was a bad grommet but turned into a seam leak. I still had a tank off of a parts tractor in my basement. Been there for about 8 yrs.

My honey and I had a great day of yard puttering and organizing. She spent a lot of today disassembling, sanding, and repainting the wood stove that we will be putting upstairs. I'll post a couple pics of that in another section. I did a bunch of organizing. Cleared out a spot in the forest next to the parts and project tractors for some pallets so I can lay my parts assortment out in a much more organized and protected manner. I still have a few things to put out there but for the most part everything is in its place and just waiting to be covered. I also took a little while and messed around with the idler pulley on the Cinnamon Horse. I tried installing a cast-iron idler and I wasn't super pleased with the way the belt set on it. It was high in the groove... so I took it back off. I managed to remove the dust seal from the bearing in the existing idler and I sprayed it out with brake clean and then put dry lube in there. Ordered a new part but this one should be okay for a little while more.

My son @JBallstopped at the junkyard on his way over to work on his Jeep. Found out the tractor came from a horse farm about 25 min away. He found a steel tractor seat bolted to a milk can so now we have a work seat. And I put her to work. My WH has a bad front wheel bearing that I’m glad I caught in time. So the Massey gets to sweep leaves.

If there is a auto electric shop near you, take the genny in to get tested. Brushes stick, commutators oxidize, field wires break ect.

what I thought was a s/g is sure on my 854 was a wiring issue. a full rewire fixed it the issues. alot of the 1964 was heavily oxidized etc even though the casing looked good

if needed, you can drill out the spot welds on the stamped pulley and match up a replacement bearing at NAPPA or a bearing supply house. Then just bolt the two haves of the stamped pulley back together with nylock nuts,

if you saved it.....so what is too much,,?? they rarley live again,,,,,,other than a seat.....your lookin pretty good,,,,, once its running...doing to much or to little is your decision ,,,,but getting seat time is the reward.... good job,!!!!!!!!!

As close as mine are allowed to get ..,

Those carbs are a piece of cake to clean up and re-build. Re-build kits on E-Bay and cheap.

You’re correct about the curing. I prefer rustolium sunrise red.

The engine had a Carter model N carb on it. Would this be the original carb? I’m going to ask over in the engine forum also. Googled my answer and @stevasaurus backed it up over on the engine forum. Cleaned it up and it works great.

Yesterday, we did a bit island hopping in greek. Chartered a small Boat for a whole Day and have some Fun with. We found several hidden Beaches, mostly with gravel, but they invite to Stay for a Break.

When I removed the cylinder heads this brass thing secured by a head bolt got my curiosity. HIGH TEMPERATURE SAFETY SWITCH SYSTEM As a safety precaution against overheating,engines can be equipped with a high temperature switch mounted to the cylinder head at the No. 2 spark plug. When cylinder head temperature becomes critically high, the safety switch will automatically stop the engine by shorting out the ignition system. A waiting period of about 15 minutes will be required before the switch has cooled off sufficiently to re-start the engine. An overheated engine will score the cylinder walls, burm out connecting rod and crankshaft bearings, also warp pistons and valves. The cause of the overheating condition will have to be remedied before the engine is re-started.

I'll bet he is hauling pig iron as well.

The size of my herd has gone from two to twelve in the past decade, but that isn't the most important part. The number of friendships I've made and the knowledge we have shared through Red Square is what is most meaningful to me.

Johnny Cash would be proud!

Well played sir. Love the Red Green.

You haven't truly found nirvana... until you find the wife is stacking laundry on them... the cat is napping on them... and you find yourself decorating with parts from them for the holidays.

This is close to my prep for winter storage of my outboard engines. These are two strokes motors used in salt water so all steps don't apply. I make a concentrated mixture of fuel. Two cups non ethanol gasoline One half cup of Sea Foam. One half cup of 2 cycle oil. I start the engines as normal, then pull the fuel line off at the tank and stick it in the container of super fuel. The idea is to allow it to be sucked into the lines ,filters, fuel pump, carbs, and cylinders. Then I cap the fuel line. I then pull the plugs and spray each cylinder with fogging oil as I rotate the crank several rotations. I drain all the fuel from the tanks and actually burn the 50/1 mix in my 4 stroke engines. I like to turn the engines over monthly to redistribute the oil on the cylinder walls and to reposition the fins on the rubber water pumps. My engines always start easily in the spring although it takes a few minutes to burn off all the excess oil.

BE SURE TO POST PICKS,,,,,WE LUV'UM

Thanks.

I was checking $bay for awhile... No $50 decks on there!! This is JohnDeere country, VERY few WheelHorse tractors were sold around these parts. Anything local would have been sold for scrap few years back when steel hit $400 a ton!!! I would have to pay $300 for GOOD wheelhorse spindles! and the fact its MY deck! I helped build!!!!!!

it is the gen Terminal. Take that wire to the A terminal on the generator and see if things work

He painted the used gasket to assure of a good seal.

Hello, all. I have an 80s 42SD on my WorkHorse at the moment. Just went all through it. Still has the original WH wheels on it. Set the deck lever, etc. But even with the deck all the way lifted, it only seems to cut at about 2 1/4" which is just way too low for our yard. Setting it lower will drop the deck right onto the ground.. Would it hurt anything if I just stuck some larger wheels on? I can't seem to find any other way of getting it to cut higher, tough the adverts claimed it could cut up to 3".

I keep telling myself it comes with age. Though I'm not in bad shape, for the shape I'm in.

bigger wheels will do the trick on your Setup or Wheels with bigger diameter (AS) i had similar problems, especial on some slope within the yard or when i have to mow arround the House. Especially after i inserted the Hydraulicpump, the lever cannot lifted fully, just one click before max, otherwise it scraps on Pump Pulley. But that was an issue, i seen before my rework and i ignored that. I investigate that later a bit closer and found out, that for my issue i just can extend the liftheight with bigger Tyres at all. Maybe a grinding or reworking on levers can also do the trick, but unfortunately i loosing once stability, or the Mowerdeck grinding sometimes onto Pulley’s, what is a nogo for me. So the Ground clearance at all increases easiest, by using bigger Tyres and i have more gap to lift or drop. After increasing ground clearance, a bit bigger Wheels on mowerdeck can also be used to keep the cut higher. For the moment i just dealin with a deeper (lower) mowing, (Mowerdeck on middle) because other Tyres depends on other Rim‘s they seems to big to fit between mowerdeck and rearaxle. The gap i have between Axle and Mowerdeck ain‘t fit with bigger Wheels on my Tractor.

Do it similar to Ed. It depends wich Engine i need to Store and how long it will be stored. On short Term storage (Normal used Engines) for Winterbreak, i start the Engine and warm it completely up, than i disconnect the Fuel line and connect it to a separate small Fueltank 300 ml and let it run with a mixture of fuel plus bit added 2 stroke oil (1:75) to conservate the Carb itself until Engine stops.(just on Carb fitted Engines)a to When engine is stopped, i opened the Carb drain to drain all out of float chamber and let it dry. Whilst Engine was still warm, i normally changed the Oil and Filter, depending how long the oil was in and how strong the Engine was used and how the Oil looks. After Engine was Cooling down, i remove spark plug and spray the cylinder with a mixture of Fog oil and 2 Stroke Oil 6:1 to keep Engine (primary the Pistonrings) prevented from Rust. Sealed intake and Exhaust with selfmade Silicone Plugs, to keep moisture outside, that also prevent hornets or Wasps find a new home in there, and no mice can be insert any things into exhaust or in Airpurifier. On Racingengines (motocycle spare) i had to store for longer times i make a schedule, when they had to be verified. Engines will be stored dry and moisturefree in Basement with very thin Oil in a bit overfilled. put a Sticker on them, that i remember it must be serviced before use. Cranking them by hand or by Starter, depending what is available, but don‘t forget to remove the Silicone Sealplugs before and resealed after moving. That‘s the reason i use Sevicesticker. The Batteries for motorcycles will be hung on second output of Solarcharger (Starterbattery output) on the Shed by a selfmade charging line and a simple Car Plug, each of my Vehicles will be retrofitted with. So i‘m able to charge each battery on each vehicle i had.

Cool 👍 Good Job

Jeeeesus .... r u kidding me.

... of your drive home.

If you go this route to the files https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/ You can select a category As soon as it opens click on the "SORT BY".near the top right of the page. Select "Title" from the drop down menu and everything in that section will go into chronological order. Then they make sense. Garry

This is for a 1980 (other years are similar) you can find other years in the manual section here.