Jump to content

Recommended Posts


On 12/2/2017 at 7:10 PM, lak1965 said:

My brother and myself are currently tackling one of two 1978 D-250's recently purchased. I was considering using one for a parts tractor but it runs well and seems to only need some front axle / PTO bearings and the 3rd / 4th gear  and fork. So here is my attempt to document the repairs. I purchased a shift assembly on ebay from a 1976 but the parts I need are the same and Shuboxluver is sending me some gears. It may need the 6 spline shaft also.  


Thats me on the beast.

IMG_1758 2.JPG

Inspection of problem. Where is 3rd / 4th gear?



Missing 3rd / 4th gear shifting fork.



New used fork from ebay shifter assembly with spring and bearings. Tomorrow I will upload a picture of a tool we made to reinstall the fork keeping spring and ball in place.

Edited by lak1965
  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you have your work cut out for you, but getting it done!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Both engines run great. The only problem is neither one came with the complete oil bath air cleaners. Ill probably convert to paper filters.

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

:text-coolphotos:               Not too many threads on 250s so glad you are planning to pass along your adventure.       :text-bravo:

  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not hard to work on a D-250 all you need the repair manual and a set of metric tools and a parts dealer :D

Been there done that and still doing it :)

Really like the detail pictures good work guys

Edited by maxiblue

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I uploaded a file called Gutbrod 2500 transaxle, from what I gather it is the same as the D-250. I hope it helps others as it is a bear trying to find meaningful info for these things. here is the link .


  • Excellent 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Definitely going to follow this thread, @Big_Red_Fred Fred promised to buy one with a FEL so I need to know how to work on them. How is the engine. It does look like a beast. Good luck with the repairs.

Cuz, you better make some Dang room in that Corral before a 250 starts wallering it a home LOL

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


In the upper righthand corner is the tool I made from a part from the ebay shifter. It is needed to hold the spring and ball in while installing the gear fork. Also you can see some gaskets made by my brother.IMG_1768.JPG.77b1456a635db9316a7a666d950cf2bf.JPG

This is the repaired shifter with all three gear forks.IMG_1769.JPG.cddf9dd3a7b939b44f6532107e0b81db.JPG

The repaired one and the one from ebay, you can see the rod missing that I used to make the tool.IMG_1771.JPG.0c10909d910f130e83399cf0d3cac923.JPG

Here is the transmission off. What a huge pain to remove. Now the real fun will begin.IMG_1766.JPG.13f19a54a90bb9742d6ad984419cf72d.JPG

Here is the 54 inch hydraulic John Deere plow that will go on this monster when I figure out what the proper male connector size is on the D-250. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Edited by lak1965
  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Started to take off axle from gear reduction box. Locktabs bent up on bolts need to be knocked down.



Used a gear puller to remove hub.



Split the cover off. Used a chisel to break the seal.



Here is the front of the case. Be careful of shims and needle bearings in the case.



After unbolting the 8 mm Allen headed bolts,  we discovered we couldn't remove the right hand gear shaft. We investigated online looking up youtube videos of Gutbrod transaxle repairs and found that we should have removed the PTO cover and gears to remove the shaft. Should have followed the manual step by step instead of skipping around. More to come.







Edited by lak1965
  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Saturday we decided to tackle the transaxle again. The manual said to remove the right hand tire.



Thats me getting ready to remove the rear PTO on the back side. You are looking at the front side.



Removing bolts on the cover plate of PTO.




 Cover plate removed.



Some shims to be removed.


Now removing the face plate.



The manual said to use a plastic hammer to remove the PTO but I had to use a steel hammer with gentle persuasion.

There is a big clip behind the PTO bearing that needs to be removed and it was not as easy as you would think it should be.




More gears to remove after the clip was removed. 



The other shaft has a clip to remove to allow the shaft to be roved from the front.



This washer on the left doesn't look like it belongs there.




Edited by lak1965
  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Time to finally remove the shaft.



Gear, washer and gear reduction case removed.




 Time to crack the case. 10 bolts removed.



Removed 10 bolts holding case together.



Two more on the under side of the case then ........



Case is separated by gently tapping with dead blow hammer .



Here is a shot of the other side of the case.



worm gear drive shaft removed.



Brass on orbit gear chewed up a bit. Maybe I can polish it out.



Splined end of shaft chewed up also, filed it down a bit to get the 3rd / 4th gear on but it is obvious it is trash. It also looks burnt.



That is my brother trying to remove the parking brake disk that is also chewed up as well as the splines on the PTO end. There is a clip that needs to be removed. The brake disk will need to be cut off.



Here are a bunch of gears I received from shuboxlover , he is working on getting me the shaft I need also.



Here is what we have surmised so far, 3rd / 4th gear blew up and destroyed the shifting fork and shaft. Parking brake removed , maybe locked up and chewed up brake disk and chewed up orbital gear a bit. PTO shaft not working because there was a clip missing behind the bearing making it slip past the engagement gear. A spacer was also in there that doesn't look like it belongs that probably chewed up the PTO side of the shaft spline. Now its clean things up, paint and wait for more parts.

Edited by lak1965
  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/17/2017 at 9:54 PM, lak1965 said:

Brass on orbit gear chewed up a bit. Maybe I can polish it out.

:text-coolphotos:     Thanks for the wonderful detail and photos you have been posting. The brass gears in a worm gear drive has always been a problem.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So we changed the hydraulic fittings on the other D-250 today. The tractor would not turn to the left and it was speculated it froze and that was a correct assumption because it was fine on Saturday after the 45 degree weather.We  siphoned out the old steering gear oil out and flushed with diesel fuel to remove water and replaced it with fresh 80-90 gear oil. I am sure there is rusting going on because of the color of the oils coming out but that is a project for another day. We also tightened the belt to the altinator now the light doesn't come on.



We had to loosen the dash panel to have enough room to take out the glass coolant reservoir. There is a plastic screw type cap between that and the battery that isa little awkward to get to on the steering gear box.



You can see the hand pump siphon I used to remove, flush and refill the gear box oil.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By JP56
      I purchased what I was told by the seller, to be a "partially restored" 1975 C Series. I have it now for 3 seasons & have concluded that this restoration consisted of replacing a few bolts and repainting it and replacing some of the decals. The seller told me he "screwed up" on the Model Decals when he ordered them, & put the wrong one on it (C120), but did not tell me the correct one that should be on it, and he gave me a 1975 C Series Owners Manual with it. I am wondering if the Model Numbers correlate to the horsepower of the engines. If that is the case, I must have a C100, because mine has the Kohler 10 HP engine, which is labeled as a K241S. It has an 8 Speed Manual Transmission.
      After getting it home and using it, I put it in my shed & the next time I went to use it, I see the transmission/gearbox has leaked oil onto the shed floor, appears to be coming from the seam between the two halves of the rear-end. I also see a heavy black greasy film build up at both axle seals & also around the brake drum seal. I am now in doubt of the recommended oil for the rear end. Some of the online forums say that they had begun using transmission fluid as a replacement for older types of lubes, while others say 10-30 motor oil. I saw someplace which I can't seem to find again right now, that 85W-140 gear lube was what should be used. The oil level on the dipstick has not dropped to low levels, and appears to be motor oil, so after searching around and also checking the manual given to me with the tractor, I top off the level with 10W-30 as spec'd on page 5 of the manual(if this is indeed the right manual for my year and model). 
      My problem now, is that last season, it suddenly seemed to get a bit sluggish & slow down as it gets warmer during use. I believe my sluggishness problem might be due to the leak in the box seam and possibly also the type of fluid/lube in the case of the transmission/gearbox. I had already tweaked the carb as best I could, changed the fuel filter, replaced the spark plug due to a hard starting condition and rough running, & it seems to be running fine right now except for a backfire when shutting it down. I have purchased a replacement carb for it that I have to put on now, & I am pretty sure I need to locate & change the points as well. 
      Anyway I am hoping that someone can point me towards the right manuals, by placing all numbers I have been able to find on it here so I can hopefully find the right service/repair manuals (hopefully as free downloads someplace online) for the different systems. 
      Model: 103909
      Serial Number: 47404
      Model: K241S
      Specs: 46636D
      S/N: 6097616
      Deck: 0542M505
      All Numbers on Transmission/Gearbox Casting:
      8163 or B163 ?(Cannot Read Clearly)
      101761 or 1017G1 ?(Cannot Read Clearly)
      Any and all advice/info anyone can supply me with on this would be greatly appreciated! Also, any tips on good places to purchase reasonably priced parts would be good as well.
    • By Walnut1
      I am selling my 1976 Wheel HorseD-250. I believe this was the first year they produced theD-250. Tractor runs good. Package include a 60" mower deck and a tiller. Tiller has been welded. I am asking $2000 OBO. Tractor must be picked up. Please call (217) 249-3793 or email anderson.jeffreyalan@gmail.com

    • By 19richie66
      I have a toro Continental “R” series parts manual and owners manual. Not sure if it the same as the Wheelhorse D250 but it has some good reference as far as wiring and other illustrations. Mods, If in wrong section, I apologize. Please feel free to move it. 

    • By Seacrestbf
      When we try to push the machine with out it running or in gear. The rear wheels are locking up. Is there a release valve? I have to push it from the storage area to the shop, the motor is rapping.  
      Thank you