D-250 transaxle repair

[lak1965 52]

 

On 12/2/2017 at 7:10 PM, lak1965 said:

My brother and myself are currently tackling one of two 1978 D-250's recently purchased. I was considering using one for a parts tractor but it runs well and seems to only need some front axle / PTO bearings and the 3rd / 4th gear  and fork. So here is my attempt to document the repairs. I purchased a shift assembly on ebay from a 1976 but the parts I need are the same and Shuboxluver is sending me some gears. It may need the 6 spline shaft also.  

Thats me on the beast.

Inspection of problem. Where is 3rd / 4th gear?

Missing 3rd / 4th gear shifting fork.

 

New used fork from ebay shifter assembly with spring and bearings. Tomorrow I will upload a picture of a tool we made to reinstall the fork keeping spring and ball in place.

Edited December 4, 2017 by lak1965

[KC9KAS 4,746]

Looks like you have your work cut out for you, but getting it done!

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,363]

Definitely going to follow this thread, @Big_Red_Fred Fred promised to buy one with a FEL so I need to know how to work on them. How is the engine. It does look like a beast. Good luck with the repairs.

[lak1965 52]

Both engines run great. The only problem is neither one came with the complete oil bath air cleaners. Ill probably convert to paper filters.

[953 nut 68,189]

               Not too many threads on 250s so glad you are planning to pass along your adventure.       

[maxiblue 352]

Not hard to work on a D-250 all you need the repair manual and a set of metric tools and a parts dealer 

Been there done that and still doing it

Really like the detail pictures good work guys

Edited December 3, 2017 by maxiblue

[lak1965 52]

I uploaded a file called Gutbrod 2500 transaxle, from what I gather it is the same as the D-250. I hope it helps others as it is a bear trying to find meaningful info for these things. here is the link .

 

[Big_Red_Fred 1,548]

13 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Definitely going to follow this thread, @Big_Red_Fred Fred promised to buy one with a FEL so I need to know how to work on them. How is the engine. It does look like a beast. Good luck with the repairs.

Cuz, you better make some Dang room in that Corral before a 250 starts wallering it a home LOL

[lak1965 52]

In the upper righthand corner is the tool I made from a part from the ebay shifter. It is needed to hold the spring and ball in while installing the gear fork. Also you can see some gaskets made by my brother.

This is the repaired shifter with all three gear forks.

The repaired one and the one from ebay, you can see the rod missing that I used to make the tool.

Here is the transmission off. What a huge pain to remove. Now the real fun will begin.

Here is the 54 inch hydraulic John Deere plow that will go on this monster when I figure out what the proper male connector size is on the D-250. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Edited December 3, 2017 by lak1965

[lak1965 52]

This is what it should look like for reference.

[lak1965 52]

Started to take off axle from gear reduction box. Locktabs bent up on bolts need to be knocked down.

 

Used a gear puller to remove hub.

 

Split the cover off. Used a chisel to break the seal.

 

Here is the front of the case. Be careful of shims and needle bearings in the case.

 

After unbolting the 8 mm Allen headed bolts,  we discovered we couldn't remove the right hand gear shaft. We investigated online looking up youtube videos of Gutbrod transaxle repairs and found that we should have removed the PTO cover and gears to remove the shaft. Should have followed the manual step by step instead of skipping around. More to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 12, 2017 by lak1965

[lak1965 52]

Saturday we decided to tackle the transaxle again. The manual said to remove the right hand tire.

 

Thats me getting ready to remove the rear PTO on the back side. You are looking at the front side.

 

Removing bolts on the cover plate of PTO.

 

 

 Cover plate removed.

Some shims to be removed.

Now removing the face plate.

 

The manual said to use a plastic hammer to remove the PTO but I had to use a steel hammer with gentle persuasion.

There is a big clip behind the PTO bearing that needs to be removed and it was not as easy as you would think it should be.

 

More gears to remove after the clip was removed. 

 

The other shaft has a clip to remove to allow the shaft to be roved from the front.

 

This washer on the left doesn't look like it belongs there.

 

 

Edited December 18, 2017 by lak1965

[lak1965 52]

Time to finally remove the shaft.

 

Gear, washer and gear reduction case removed.

 

 

 Time to crack the case. 10 bolts removed.

Removed 10 bolts holding case together.

 

Two more on the under side of the case then ........

 

Case is separated by gently tapping with dead blow hammer .

 

Here is a shot of the other side of the case.

 

worm gear drive shaft removed.

 

Brass on orbit gear chewed up a bit. Maybe I can polish it out.

 

Splined end of shaft chewed up also, filed it down a bit to get the 3rd / 4th gear on but it is obvious it is trash. It also looks burnt.

 

That is my brother trying to remove the parking brake disk that is also chewed up as well as the splines on the PTO end. There is a clip that needs to be removed. The brake disk will need to be cut off.

 

Here are a bunch of gears I received from shuboxlover , he is working on getting me the shaft I need also.

 

Here is what we have surmised so far, 3rd / 4th gear blew up and destroyed the shifting fork and shaft. Parking brake removed , maybe locked up and chewed up brake disk and chewed up orbital gear a bit. PTO shaft not working because there was a clip missing behind the bearing making it slip past the engagement gear. A spacer was also in there that doesn't look like it belongs that probably chewed up the PTO side of the shaft spline. Now its clean things up, paint and wait for more parts.

Edited December 18, 2017 by lak1965

[953 nut 68,189]

On 12/17/2017 at 9:54 PM, lak1965 said:

Brass on orbit gear chewed up a bit. Maybe I can polish it out.

     Thanks for the wonderful detail and photos you have been posting. The brass gears in a worm gear drive has always been a problem.

[lak1965 52]

So we changed the hydraulic fittings on the other D-250 today. The tractor would not turn to the left and it was speculated it froze and that was a correct assumption because it was fine on Saturday after the 45 degree weather.We  siphoned out the old steering gear oil out and flushed with diesel fuel to remove water and replaced it with fresh 80-90 gear oil. I am sure there is rusting going on because of the color of the oils coming out but that is a project for another day. We also tightened the belt to the altinator now the light doesn't come on.

 

We had to loosen the dash panel to have enough room to take out the glass coolant reservoir. There is a plastic screw type cap between that and the battery that isa little awkward to get to on the steering gear box.

 

You can see the hand pump siphon I used to remove, flush and refill the gear box oil.