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ebinmaine

Can somebody share a schematic for late 70s B or C Series?

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I'm installing the proper ignition switch and rewiring some.

I'd love to see a proper schematic drawing that is a little better than the one from a 74 B80  Factory Sketch. It's a bit vague.

@BOB ELLISON, you have one for a c-160 that you redid I think.?

Edited by ebinmaine

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1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm installing the proper ignition switch and rewiring some.

I'd love to see a proper schematic drawing that is a little better than the one from a 74 B80  Factory Sketch. It's a bit vague.

@BOB ELLISON, you have one for a c-160 that you redid I think.?

Yes I rewired my 1974  c160 and the B80 is the same wiring diagram. I did add a volt gage instead of the amp gage so that's the only difference . If you use a amp gage just rewire it as the old diagram says. Here is the diagram I used.

I replaced each wire by color and this made it much easer.

volt meter relay.jpg

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10 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

Yes I rewired my 1974  c160 and the B80 is the same wiring diagram. I did add a volt gage instead of the amp gage so that's the only difference . If you use a amp gage just rewire it as the old diagram says. Here is the diagram I used.

I replaced each wire by color and this made it much easer.

volt meter relay.jpg

Excellent. Thank you Bob!

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@ebinmaine I also forgot to mention in this diagram I added different lights so I added a relay it's the blue wires. If you want a diagram without the relay I can post one . I made this diagram with a relay so I could add brighter headlights that draw more amp's without destroying the key switch.

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5 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

@ebinmaine I also forgot to mention in this diagram I added different lights so I added a relay it's the blue wires. If you want a diagram without the relay I can post one . I made this diagram with a relay so I could add brighter headlights that draw more amp's without destroying the key switch.

Thank you for offering Bob but I'll use your diagram just as it is. I'm going to wire my lights that way as well. I'm using LEDs but I figure it's worth the cheap insurance.

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Hello,

Not sure to start a new thread since my question is similar, so If I may hijack this thread as I have a

Similar request.

I recently purchased a rusty 1977   C160-8    71-16K802. The wiring is a mess and that is putting it light. Someone wired in an engine cutoff switch and mounted it in the Dash plate.  But they put some effort into it by changing out the dash plate, as the switch location is labeled Electrical Clutch. And they added an ATO fuse in the modification.

But someone has butchered the wiring further by using the wrong headlight switch, splicing wires, etc. There is no wire loom left at all. Wires are bare and dangling everywhere.

It was as running when I purchased, but seller had to jump it off. It had a U1 battery.

Yesterday was my first opportunity to purchase the correct battery and attempt to crank. I bought a group 51 as this 1977 C160 has a narrow battery tray. I cleaned all the connections at starter, magnetic switch, etc., and added post type battery ends. The first sign that something was wrong was there was no arc spark when connecting the battery cables to the battery. I have a good ground. And as you might have guessed nothing happened when I turned the key.

I fiddled a couple hours trying to match up the wiring with that on my 1976 C160 which is correct, but they are not wired the same at the starter solenoid or ignition switch. And to complicate matters 2 wires are missing from being connected to the ignition switch on this rusty 1977 C160 as you can see in one of the pictures.

I found a wiring diagram in the manual section on this site, but I also noticed a colored versions in this post that looks easier to follow.

So I think my next step will be to order an ignition switch 103990 and headlight and began rewiring the entire tractor.

I included some pictures showing the wiring. It may not appear, but I did clean all the terminals except the rectifier. I just now opened that assembly up to view wiring.

My questions:

·         Please will can someone supply a link to a colored wiring diagram like the above without relay mod and for amp gauge. (I have tried to read factory wiring schematics and I fail at that).

·         What gauge wires and any suggestion for good terminal ends?

·         Do you recommend wiring back in the PTO and Clutch switch?

·         Finally do you use wire loom to make up your harness? If so what size would you recommend

 

Thank You

Johnny Walker

DSCN0011.JPG

DSCN0012.JPG

DSCN0014.JPG

DSCN0015.JPG

DSCN0016.JPG

DSCN0017.JPG

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@jwalk2cc No worries about hijacking one of my threads. ..ever.  I don't mind at all. 

One of us will get your rig straightened out with you. 

I'm in the middle of a very similar project on a 1974.

When I get to my pc I'll read this more thoroughly and tell you what I can. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, jwalk2cc said:

found a wiring diagram in the manual section on this site, but I also noticed a colored versions in this post that looks easier to follow.

So I think my next step will be to order an ignition switch 103990 and headlight and began rewiring the entire tractor.

I included some pictures showing the wiring. It may not appear, but I did clean all the terminals except the rectifier. I just now opened that assembly up to view wiring.

My questions:

·         Please will can someone supply a link to a colored wiring diagram like the above without relay mod and for amp gauge. (I have tried to read factory wiring schematics and I fail at that).

·         What gauge wires and any suggestion for good terminal ends?

·         Do you recommend wiring back in the PTO and Clutch switch?

OK let's see if we can narrow this down a bit....

 

The colored schematic is a great service done by @BOB ELLISON so thanks again Bob !!

Maybe he or someone can show you the correct one for an ammeter set up.

( I REALLY don't like ammeters so I took them out of BOTH of tractors and replaced with volt meters )

 

Most of the wire in a :wh: is fine at 14 Ga. Obvious exceptions would be battery cables, ammeter feed, Maybe the battery to key switch wire, old school non-LED lights may want 12 Ga.

Go heavier if in doubt.

Here's a link to table that shows some suggestions:

 

https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html

 

As to terminal ends, I use the cheap ones and be careful... and Tape the ends if you can to reduce corrosion. You can get 1/4 female with heat shrink covered ends. (better but I'm too.. umm ... frugal)

 

PTO safety switch YES.

I don't wire in the clutch switch but only you can make that call.... Inexperienced operators or kids around? Put the safety switches in.

 

Loom... Both of my rigs are still waiting for a full re-wire and in prep for that I picked up some 7-wire trailer harness.

I'll cut up a few feet of that... it'll be "self-looming" so to speak 'cause it's covered.

 

NOTE: Use ALL COPPER wire, NOT copper clad aluminum if you can find it. Many folks say it lasts longer.

 

Hope this helps!!

 

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@jwalk2cc I'll rework the color electrical diagram with the AMP gage . And remove the relay. It will be the basic wiring diagram.  

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6 hours ago, jwalk2cc said:

The wiring is a mess and that is putting it light.

:WRS:             That is a very accurate description!        :ychain:  I would pull all of the old wiring out and use the diagram one wire at a time.     

Bob's drawing is great and Eric has given you some good advice on wire size, but I would suggest using the Delphi Packard terminals. They will hold tightly and save a lot of headaches in the future. You can get them at good auto parts stores or on Ebay. I crimp and solder all and use shrink wrap.

s-l1600.jpg

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@jwalk2cc I'll rework the color electrical diagram with the AMP gage . And remove the relay. It will be the basic wiring diagram.  Well here is the basic what you need to start and run good. I would suggest you fix or replace the PTO and the Clutch  switchs as soon as you can. If you don't have the switchs or they don't work just run a single wire from solenoid to the S terminal on the key switch. It's the RED wire

BASIC WIRING B80 - C160.jpg

Edited by BOB ELLISON
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Guys I can't thank you enough!

Ebinmaine I appreciate all the information.

Thank you 953Nut, I like the Delphi Packard Terminals, and I enjoy soldering and using shrink

Wrap.

Thank you Bob for reworking the wiring diagram,

I may as well wire in the clutch and PTO switch while I am at it.

Where do you guys purchase these safety switches?

Do you use the Toro brand?

Thanks again for all this help.

Johnny Walker

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12 minutes ago, jwalk2cc said:

Where do you guys purchase these safety switches?

Johnny,  I haven't had to buy a new switch yet but maybe you could peruse our Vendors section and see who may offer them.

A - Z Tractor maybe?

 

Maybe the others could chime in later with a better answer. .....

 

 

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I like that wiring diagram, I printed it out for future use on my B-80.  Thanks!

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I might print both of them just for reference - eyes are about shot and my hand drawn references aren't exactly as neatly done ..thanks.

 

Sarge

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That's what I did, printed both.  Just for reference.  Can't have too many papers with important info for my hobby.

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:text-yeahthat:             Saved it to the computer and a flash drive. I have shared Bob's diagram with a few members who needed wiring help. Thanks @BOB ELLISON, you are the best.

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@953 nut  ,@jajiu , @Sarge and @ebinmaine. That's  $29.95 for the electric diagrams please. No just kidding guys use them and give them to all the RedSquare guys that have a need for them.

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5 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said:

@953 nut  ,@jajiu , @Sarge and @ebinmaine. That's  $29.95 for the electric diagrams please. No just kidding guys use them and give them to all the RedSquare guys that have a need for them.

Hahaha. Now wait just a cotton-picking New York minute here Bob. Seeing as to how I was the o p on this one, shouldn't I share in some of the profit? Wait. Hold that thought. Seeing as to how I was the o p on this one it's possible I also caused all this misery on your part of having to share your hard work. So you could potentially charge me double. Okay, never mind.

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Hello All,

I do have another question and I hope it helps the original OP at some point.

The question concerns the wiring at regulator-rectifier.

The wiring diagram shows 3 wires connected to the regulator-rectifier arranged in a side by side

pattern.

The Kohler 41-403-06 regulator-rectifier has 2 terminals on top and one underneath as you can see

in the picture..

And they are marked

A                             A

C                             C

B  +

Which terminal does R from switch connect too, and which terminals do the 2 wires to engine connect?

Thanks

Johnny Walker

IMG_0828.JPG

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51 minutes ago, jwalk2cc said:

Hello All,

I do have another question and I hope it helps the original OP at some point.

The question concerns the wiring at regulator-rectifier.

The wiring diagram shows 3 wires connected to the regulator-rectifier arranged in a side by side

pattern.

The Kohler 41-403-06 regulator-rectifier has 2 terminals on top and one underneath as you can see

in the picture..

And they are marked

A                             A

C                             C

B  +

Which terminal does R from switch connect too, and which terminals do the 2 wires to engine connect?

Thanks

Johnny Walker

IMG_0828.JPG

I believe it the bottom single  connector. You want the B+ connector to go to the R on the key switch.  Every post on the regulater has a letter. It's the orange wire on the diagram.  B+ only if you cross and use a A it will short out the regulator. 

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The two side by side are labeled AC (Alternating Current ) from engine  The B+ goes to the R (regulator) terminal on the ignition s

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On 2/11/2018 at 5:46 PM, ebinmaine said:

OK let's see if we can narrow this down a bit....

 

The colored schematic is a great service done by @BOB ELLISON so thanks again Bob !!

Maybe he or someone can show you the correct one for an ammeter set up.

( I REALLY don't like ammeters so I took them out of BOTH of tractors and replaced with volt meters )

 

Most of the wire in a :wh: is fine at 14 Ga. Obvious exceptions would be battery cables, ammeter feed, Maybe the battery to key switch wire, old school non-LED lights may want 12 Ga.

Go heavier if in doubt.

Here's a link to table that shows some suggestions:

 

https://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html

 

As to terminal ends, I use the cheap ones and be careful... and Tape the ends if you can to reduce corrosion. You can get 1/4 female with heat shrink covered ends. (better but I'm too.. umm ... frugal)

 

PTO safety switch YES.

I don't wire in the clutch switch but only you can make that call.... Inexperienced operators or kids around? Put the safety switches in.

 

Loom... Both of my rigs are still waiting for a full re-wire and in prep for that I picked up some 7-wire trailer harness.

I'll cut up a few feet of that... it'll be "self-looming" so to speak 'cause it's covered.

 

NOTE: Use ALL COPPER wire, NOT copper clad aluminum if you can find it. Many folks say it lasts longer.

 

Hope this helps!!

 

I noticed the wire from the coil to points appears to be different than other twisted copper wire. It is silver stranded and heaver than the other wiring.

What wire do you recommend for this on a 16HP K341 Kohler.

Thanks 

Johnny Walker

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4 minutes ago, jwalk2cc said:

I noticed the wire from the coil to points appears to be different than other twisted copper wire. It is silver stranded and heaver than the other wiring.

What wire do you recommend for this on a 16HP K341 Kohler.

Thanks 

Johnny Walker

oooooooooo..... ya got me there John. I don't know. Haven't had to mess with that one yet....

 

Maybe someone else could chime in?

 

 

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1 hour ago, jwalk2cc said:

What wire do you recommend for this on a 16HP K341 Kohler.

14 gauge copper wire would be fine, The silver colored wire is probably "tinned" (solder covered) copper wire, nothing wrong with that.

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