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7 hours ago, WHX12 said:

So lemme get this straight @Racinbob ...you're saying some '61's (551's or others) did have a two piece in them?  I was always under the thought that 2 piece tranny were not brought out till early '62? Was it just late 61 that the f plate frames were being produced? Please excuse my ignorance on your thread Aldon but I like to pick Bob's brain... lots of good stuff :wh:wise in ther!

Never mine Bob ...in thinking now a 701 would have had a two piece!

 

6 hours ago, evanloock said:

All 1961 701 and 551 tractors had the two piece transmission while the 401 retained the three piece trans.

 

evanloock is spot on Jim. Also as @stevasaurus said, there are no 500's. Someplace I did see a 500 on a list but it was an error and it misled folks. :)

 

Aldon, here's another thought for your steering wheel depending on how close to original you wanted it. I filled a few minor issues on mine and used Dupli-color truck bed coating on it. It gave the wheel a great feel, looks great and seems to be really durable. :)

 

59c399abef88e_Steeringwheeldone.JPG.d86f34b9364cc5ece53f0f5706ce28b8.JPG

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Moderators, @stevebo,

 

Rather than start another thread in restorations, perhaps this thread can be moved?

 

All, There really is not much to these beasts once you have torn it down it is really quite an efficient design. I like these little tractors more and more.

 

The whole tractor minus frame disassembled:

IMG_1471.JPG.3d3f459b5953b92859f9e560dc18181b.JPG

 

While frame is not destroyed it is for the purposes of an original patina tractor. So I'll be using the frame from Ol'Joe.

 

IMG_1468.JPG.634e1577e34f8504ca2720d526063123.JPGIMG_1469.JPG.ccdb1af6131db480d969deca24f12517.JPGIMG_1470.JPG.ab34712c93f4cd85e6e8ba124da87584.JPG

 

I was able to save the original serial number by gently heating the underside of frame and using a freshly sharpened putty knife.

 

IMG_1467.JPG.08ec6bc320f59b0da97bee0df11265e7.JPG

 

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Ok experts, it seems straight forward that you drain the oil by pulling the threaded plug from bottom of tranny.

 

is the refill location this angled spot on drivers left rear side? How much gear oil  should I expect it to take? I ask as very little drained out.

IMG_1472.JPG.ca6aed159f547dd079ba155c2f2045e5.JPG

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Make sure you raise the front to get the oil that's trapped in front of the humpy doobie in the middle. 1.5 quarts of 90w140 is listed. I use 80w90 in all mine. I don't refill through that hole. I put the plug back in an fill through the shifter hole.

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Thanks Rob. Shifter hole makes a lot of sense.

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It was the "Transmission Usage" sheet that had the error.  It had listed a suburban 400 & 500 for 1960.  Correct that to read 400 & 550 for 1960.  :)

Aldon, once you have the trans drained and you go to put oil back in...you fill until it starts to come out that oil level check plug on the side.

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Aldon, how about doing me a favor since you're in a position to do it. I've always intended to but kept forgetting until it was too late. Go ahead and leave the plug out as you refill. Then see how much oil it takes to start coming out. Here's something to think about Steve. I've never used the overflow point as an indicator when it was full. I just now went out and took some measurements and if you fill through the overflow hole it's likely that it will tell you it's full before any oil gets in front of the hump. Filling through a seat spring hole would do the same thing. Filling through the shifter hole would get the oil in front and then fill the back to the overflow point and likely be much closer to a quart and a half. That's why I'm a 'put a quart and a half in and be done with it' guy. Just something to chew on until we Skype next. :)

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Ok.

 

i was at that point having drained and swapped trannies.

 

It took about 1 1/3 quarts for it to start to flow out the check port.

 

Thanks for the assist guys.

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That's pretty close to 3 pints Aldon.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  The manual says to fill until level with top of hole...it also says "it will take ABOUT 3 pints".  My issue with using the fill level hole as a gauge (unless you have a dip stick) is you have no idea how much oil you have in there if it is over full...and these transmissions use a splash method to lubricate everything in there.  Notice that hole is below the axles, if you have too much oil in the trans, you may not be lubing the transmission correctly.  I know it looks close, but I think the hump is below the top of the fill hole.  :)

 

702 transmission 020.jpg

 

It is not much, but it looks to be 3/8" to 1/2" from this picture.

2008_0122TRANSNEW10015.JPG

 

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Not concerned about what the inside may be like or going to flush it  Aldon?

 

Hey how are you gonna get anything done on the Predator project you keep messing with these little beauts?!?!?

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7 minutes ago, WHX12 said:

Not concerned about what the inside may be like or going to flush it  Aldon?

 

Hey how are you gonna get anything done on the Predator project you keep messing with these little beauts?!?!?

The inside of tranny appeared fine from what I could see through the shifter opening and the fluid I drained was good. So no need to flush imo.

 

As far as the GT22-8, progress continues. Currently waiting on a critical part. However updates to the build thread will occur after the Stevebo meet and greet.

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Almost done.

 

Steering Wheel and wiring/ignitions switch installed but got too dark for pics.

 

The clutch and throttle cables on theses beasts is a royal PItA.

IMG_1475.JPG.7a928306c4dd714aa83dbcb832715187.JPG

 

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Ok. Ol'Joe is not quite as good as new but is now ship-shape. Transmission, wheels, hood and several other parts swapped out. Electrical issue sorted out. Also new drive belt. Basically complete except for minor tweaks such as choke and throttle cable routing for optimization and it could use a patina muffler shield. 

 

If anyone one has an original patina exhaust shield that's willing to part with it, please PM me. 

 

@stevebo Ol'Joe is good to go for the most part now.

 

@formariz The electrical issue turned out that B connection had been to engine shroud and was intermittently open. I ran it to negative battery terminal like my other 551 and the key works perfectly. Ignition switch turns the motor off. Thanks for you assistance.

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1 minute ago, Aldon said:

@formariz The electrical issue turned out that B connection had been to engine shroud and was intermittently open. I ran it to negative battery terminal like my other 551 and the key works perfectly. Ignition switch turns the motor off. Thanks for you assistance.

 

Glad to hear it all worked out. Nice to see another one working with the correct parts the way it was intended.

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