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formariz

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formariz last won the day on April 28

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About formariz

  • Rank
    Senior Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/29/1958

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
    1956 RJ35 --LITTLE WIDOW MAKER
    1958 RJ58 --SWAMP RAT
    1959 RJ59
    1961 551 --OLD MILLY
    1963 653
    1969 ELECTRO 12 -KENNY
  • favoritemodel
    RJ

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Occupation
    Architectural Woodwork

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  1. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    Governor is functioning perfectly as always. I am positive that problem was not starter. For the time being as a quick peace of mind fix I am going to drain oil and examine oil pan. This engine does not have a dipstick, only a plug where that would be. It does have a 3/4" plug also at the pan where one actually checks oil level. I can see the bottom of pan there and can even insert my magnetic flexible tool and see if I "fish" anything out.
  2. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    The logical reason I agree would be the starter as the cause of the binding and then the subsequent noise.What baffles me is the fact that I am able to watch the Bendix move back and forth as I turn the key, and I can be sure that it is retracted all the way when not engaged. It was also very obvious where the noise came from and it was not from starter area. I get a feeling something is brewing in there.
  3. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    Checked ACR and that seems to be working properly. Will probably drain oil and see if anything is on bottom of pan.
  4. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    Will check shortly.
  5. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    Came to mind about them also. I am not familiar with them but i don't see what could cause that type of noise inside engine. Noise came from the lower end of valve section it seems. Hopefully some engine guru chimes in.
  6. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    Unlikely since with tractor shares shelter with two cats. Never have problems with rodents here.
  7. formariz

    What happened to my Electro????

    PTO was not engaged .I tried to turn it also without the belt.Starter Bendix was fine. It would engage flywheel and since engine would not turn it would retract back all the time. Noise of "meshing gears"came from inside engine not starter once i forced flywheel to turn with a breaker bar. Used again today and no problem. What ever locked it up was inside engine. However I cannot think of what it may have done that. This thing was really locked up tight.. It took a little effort to turn it with breaker bar.
  8. So yesterday I used my Electro the whole day moving stuff around getting ready for the snow storm. As always no problem always reliable. Now into the storm I have probably 8 inches of snow so I go to get it and motor will not turn over. It is dead locked up. Cannot even turn engine by hand. Check everything ,oil starter all is normal. Decide to take flywheel screen off and use a socket wrench to turn flywheel. Now it turned but for about two seconds there was a noise like meshing gears coming from inside. Noise then disappears and now flywheel turns normally. Try to start it and now it starts on first crank as always. What happened??What could that noise have been that locked up engine after it was stopped? Is it a sign of bad things coming? Engine is a replacement K301 and it has very low hours.
  9. formariz

    STILL...no spark

    Pretty crazy. He has pretty much tried everything. We will see how the tests suggested by Gary will go. I am also sending him a complete working magneto including spark pug wire from a working H55. If that along with the flywheel I already sent him from same engine does not work, then we will really need a higher intervention. I don't know how it is affecting him but it is driving me nuts and I have never met that stubborn Techy.
  10. The thing is that if a Tecumseh is working correctly, particularly in the timing department, one is best leaving it alone since it is so time consuming and frustrating to set timing in one, due to the labor involved and how finicky they are when it comes to timing. On a Kohler not a big deal since it only involves dealing with the actual points which are readily accessible. So having said all of that, I think its up to you Eric to do probably the first experiment in one since you are going to have it apart anyway.
  11. Since setting the timing a Tecumseh is a labor intensive process due to flywheel having to be removed perhaps more than once if it is not right on the first attempt using the module would be a great improvement. I have done a few successfully on Kohler's but never attempted it on a Tecumseh. There are a few restrictions as to what Tecumseh's they will work on. Here is some good information on it from Brian Miller: Replace the Ignition Points and Condenser in a Magneto Ignition System with a Universal Solid State Electronic Ignition Module Upgrade the magneto ignition system on virtually any engine with the latest technology! Do away with the ignition points and condenser/capacitor, and install a solid state ignition module. It should be the end of your ignition problems. The ignition points and condenser/capacitor is not to be connected to the coil or module. They need to be removed from the engine and plug the ignition points pushrod hole (Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engines). Universal and high performance. Improves engine performance by producing a strong spark, and by stabilizing the spark, much like my custom-made crank-trigger and flywheel-trigger electronic ignition does, except the detectable target is the magnets on or underneath the flywheel and the coil laminations. This module has a durable die-cast aluminum housing. Weather-proof and very reliable. Ignition timing is automatically set. No kick-back and no timing adjustment required. Works excellent with virtually any magneto ignition coil! Suitable for use with most 2 leg or 3 leg magneto coils and with a flywheel having one or two magnets mounted internally or externally, and with coil mounted underneath or outside of flywheel. Works great regardless of the polarity of the magnets, too. Works on most lawn mowers, chain saws, trimmers, garden tillers, snow throwers, brush cutters, various one or two cylinder outboard boat motors, etc., with ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition. But will not work with most Stihl trimmers and chain saws, or when the ignition coil is energized by a generator that gets its power from the magnet in the flywheel, such as various outboard boat motors. Usually, the coil don't need replacing when substituting the ignition points and condenser/capacitor with one of these solid state ignition modules. If the engine ran, then the coil is obviously good. Works only with magneto type ignition coils originally connected to contact ignition points and a condenser/capacitor. They will not work with solid state ignition (CDI) coils, battery ignition coils or with flywheels having a ring of magnets mounted internally to which the ignition coil (mounted underneath flywheel also) operates off of, such as the bigger aluminum block Tecumseh engines (8hp and up). Engines can't start under full compression and with advanced ignition timing. One or the other must be "suppressed" in order for the engine to crank over without "kicking back" to start. Either it needs to have an automatic compression release to relieve about half the compression, then the compression will return to full upon start up, or the timing needs to be positioned at TDC, then it can automatically advance upon start up. (With the module, as each magnet pass the coil, it'll produce a spark. And if the spark don't occur at the precise time with the piston at a certain position in the cylinder, the engine will either "kick back" or will not run.) "Kick back" occurs when the crankshaft/flywheel suddenly and violently rebounds or rotates in the opposite direction, which is could bend or break the starter armature shaft or the aluminum starter housing. If the magnets for the charging system won't interfere with the magneto coil(s), then these modules should work well. But if the magneto coil(s) operate off the same magnets for the charging system, then neither module won't work. The modules senses when the magnet pass the coil and that's when it makes the spark. If a bunch of magnets continually pass the coil, then the coil will produce an array of sparks. How the timing is automatically set and how it works: First of all, with ignition points, the point gap determines where the ignition timing is set (on systems with a fixed or non-adjustable ignition coil). Therefore, the spark occurs when the magnet in the flywheel pass the coil laminations the moment the ignition points open. But with no ignition points, the magnet still pass the coil laminations at the same moment, which sends an electrical current through a transistor and electronic components within these modules. This current is sent in the form of a signal to the module; within, a transistor opens the primary circuit in the coil and the spark occurs. All this happens at the speed of electricity, which can be anywhere from about 50% to 99% of the speed of light, depending upon the quality of the electronic components and wire connections. Either module provides unlimited RPM. The conventional ignition points and condenser/capacitor ignition system is less responsive. This module should work very well with most magneto ignition coils. However, a new coil is recommended to use with this module. If a used coil is utilized, a weak spark may occur. This module is not for use on engines equipped with battery ignition, solid state ignition coils or multiple magnets under the flywheel with ignition coil under the flywheel, too. Scroll down for wiring diagrams and installation instructions Ê. Solid State Ignition Module w/Two Terminals. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return to previous paragraph, section or website] Universal Magneto Solid State Transistorized Electronic Ignition Module Wiring Diagram and Installation Instructions Ê Use the supplied short wire with the female connector and ring connector to connect to the negative terminal of the module to engine ground with the supplied self-tapping screw. Secure the module with the self-tapping screw to the engine sheet metal with good ventilation and air-flow. Disconnect or cut-off the ignition points and condenser wire from the coil (leave long). Connect this wire to the supplied long wire to the positive terminal of module and to the kill switch. Use the supplied wire nut to connect the two wires together. Fasten the module to the sheet metal of the engine Replace the blower housing (if removed), crank the engine rapidly and check for spark at the spark plug's tip. If no spark, recheck the wiring for proper or correct connections.
  12. formariz

    Garages

    I use my two car garage part of house for my woodworking shop. A little disorganized now from the small flood we had. It occasionally doubles as a winery and distillery also. Tractor shop is in another shed which is a one car garage size.
  13. formariz

    Re-engine a 1969 Wheel horse 700

    I wouldn't change it. Lots of character. When you see something like that and still functioning after all these years you have to look at it with respect.
  14. I have to say that you always take the greatest photos. Great eye for angles and backgrounds.
  15. formariz

    520h throttle problem

    Have the same issue on my 520. It will come down from full throttle to about half.Same happens with my Electro. In the spirit of making things easy specially with something which will occur again in the future due to wear, this is my solution on the 520.
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