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Hello, everyone and thank you in advance. I got bit by the bug a few months ago and bought a 1974 b 80  the rod broke, about a month after i bought it. So to keep my 4yr old mowing i picked up a c120 auto and i was going to change rear wheel seals pulled the hub to find the axle moves up and down and side to side about an 1/8"  what's involved in put in new bearing and does it need to be done now or a winter project. Thanks  

 

 

 

         PS sorry about the grammar

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I would not wait personally. The longer it runs the more damage can be done, and if these particles go through the pump/motor, then it can get expensive and require facing or replacement of VERY expensive parts. Hopefully the strainer is ok and the broken needles are still in the axle housing.

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 Thanks for the quick response. I kinda figured that would be the answer. Well looks like i need to find out more info. The model #90-1136 if anyone knows of any manuals or info  to help the adventure please post

  thanks

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Thanks racinbob i wasn't able to find the file for my specific tractor, it has the sundstrand hydro i will look again tonight.  Thanks 

 

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I'm pretty sure you have a 90-1136 hydro. This one should cover it. :)

 

 

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Thanks again racinbob,  and you a correct. Once this adventure starts i will post pics and probably more questions.😁

 

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Sorry no pics yet, definitely in need of a new 1 new hub. The side with bad bearings has good hub the other side has good bearings, but  the hub key way is all buggered up. Someone has opened up the transaxle before. Where is a good place to find a hub.

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To find the axle bearings you need to look at the parts list for the tractor model you have. The transaxle has it's own page and there will be two different part numbers listed. One for the 1" diameter axles and one for 1-1/8" diameter axles. These are not the best parts lists as they fail to identify what model uses what bearings. We may have original parts lists that will be more easily understood.

Toro Master PartsViewer Model Search Advanced Search Help
 Matches Found: 10
Model # Serial Range Year Product Name Links
1-0485 None
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1974 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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1-0490 None
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1974 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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1-0491 None
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1975 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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1-0495 None
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None
1974 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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61-12KS01 None
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None
1976 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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61-12KS02 None
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None
1976 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
Attachments and Accessories
61-12KS03 None
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None
1976 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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61-12KS04 None
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None
1976 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
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71-12KS01 None
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None
1977 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
Attachments and Accessories
71-12KS02 None
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None
1977 C-120 Automatic Tractor
Assembly Drawings
Product Details
Attachments and Accessories
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Search Criteria:Go Back
Model Number/Product Name  =  c-120 auto
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Well, little update on the rear end i guess  I'm going to buy a used one and save this one for a winter job. Will post pics as soon as i can thanks again for all your help

Edited by Horse playing

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Update, bought 1 hydro rear, and a 1969 electro 12 with no pto  and has 16hp Kohler on it. Hydro trans and lift might swap on to c120. Any idea how to fix a buggered up key way on a axle?

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2 hours ago, Horse playing said:

Any idea how to fix a buggered up key way on a axle?

Read this thread by @Ed Kennell.

 

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Thanks alot, thats a great idea. Good news is I'm a welder by trade, bad news work is shut down for the week. Wait i guess that's also good news

 

 

PS what's the best way to post pics

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1499012294905587060382.jpg.5ab433271d05d77a35732ba32d7c82fc.jpg1499012179236-812265142.jpg.e5a3c882b81654f86d1bfca592f4c156.jpghere is a pic of one of the hydros i bought, with chewed up key way. got the  rear-end out of the c120 this morning.

14990124923411063073493.jpg.a5d1037d82dbe64cfbf887c9ae8bc41c.jpghere is the 69 electro 12, i had to buy it. Rough, but hopefully one day i will make time for it

Edited by Horse playing
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I did something similar to the link above, got a piece of copper the correct thickness matched the radius of key to one of my hole saws and

cut a piece out Put a flat on it so i could clamp it in place and welded around it. Came out pretty good.

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Once, i get back to work i will try to weld it and see what i can do. Thanks, alot for the advice i will make sure to take pics.

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I just went thru all this on my C160 about 2 months ago. Let me know what you need to know. Looks like you need 2 new axels. That much play in the bearing means the axel is also chewed up. Those axels are also induction hardened, but only in the bearing area. Finding good axles takes awhile. I pulled my transaxle apart. I got 2 great hubs from A-Z parts. The local machine shop wanted $175 each to fix my keyways. Newer axles have a bigger woodruff key to stop this from happening. I found 2 used axles. 

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After i do the swap, i will open up the old rear end and see what i need. I bought a parts hydro so hopefully i can make one good one. Searcher60  Thanks for the advice I'm sure i will have questions once i get started. You wouldn't happen to have any pics of the inside of the rear?

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Be careful, as there are like four different pump/transaxles. There are differences inside. 

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1499722110137-2064796698.jpg.0a8a249869a542a9a3caafc0efecdb47.jpgnot the prettest thing, some of the copper is still in there. I will clean it up tomorrow and take better pictures

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Good luck! I gotta say, I think you mite should just bite the bullet and find an axle and hub. Both my axles and hubs were tore all to hell. Cost me about $300 in used parts to get it straight. The correct used axles in good condition are hard to find. The machine shop wants just as much as new axles cost to fix those. 

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