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moe1965

Keyway on axle help

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moe1965

Looking for ideas other than tearing trans apart and replacing axles .    I'm having two new hubs machined and having two set screw locations to tighten down.  One on axle and the other on keyway  I have done this in the past with success but not with this much damage to the axle where the key goes.

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ebinmaine

@Oldskool Mike has used a 4" angle grinder to hand cut a new groove.  

 

Another option would be to contact Lincoln at A to Z Tractor. He sells hubs that don't need a groove. 

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Rob J.
24 minutes ago, moe1965 said:

Looking for ideas other than tearing trans apart and replacing axles .    I'm having two new hubs machined and having two set screw locations to tighten down.  One on axle and the other on keyway  I have done this in the past with success but not with this much damage to the axle where the key goes.

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Wonders to myself how in the heck did that happen? I’ve had a few wallered out a bit but nothing like that. That’s a sign of something being wrong and just running the hell out of it. Like EBINMAINE said easiest solution is to call Lincoln on one of his heavy duty repair hubs. While I’m certainly not an expert I wonder if anyone has welded the keyway up and shaped a new one? 

Edited by Rob J.
Misspelling

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953 nut

@Ed Kennell has you covered on this one, this thread he did is great.

 

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Rob J.
7 minutes ago, Rob J. said:

Wonders to myself how in the heck did that happen? I’ve had a few wallered out a bit but nothing like that. That’s a sign of something being wrong and just running the hell out of it. Like EBINMAINE said easiest solution is to call Lincoln on one of his heavy duty repair hubs. While I’m certainly not an expert I wonder if anyone has havre welded the keyway up and shaped a new one? 

Grinder, emory cloth to get that back to round. Dremel with right tip would work better. Take your time. 

Edited by Rob J.

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moe1965

I agree  PO must have abused this one.  Said he only used it the last 8 years or so plowing snow.  Must have tried to push a mountain by ramming back and forth .    I hate seeing abuse like this   

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ineedanother
5 minutes ago, moe1965 said:

I agree  PO must have abused this one.  Said he only used it the last 8 years or so plowing snow.  Must have tried to push a mountain by ramming back and forth .    I hate seeing abuse like this   

 

Yep. Have a look at the alignment of your drive belt with the cover off to give an indication as to whether or not the frame is bent or cracked where your gear box bolts on. Abusing a dozer blade by driving into weight, especially on angles can do considerable harm.

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moe1965

I will definitely take a l@@k

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edgro

Weld just a bit at a time to not get axle hot, then grind to fit key. I set a piece of angle iron to axle, made a straight line and ground a full length groove for key. have done this several times. Next time I am going to just fill the hole and make the new key way on the opposite side 

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moe1965

I like your idea Ed.  I'm gonna give it a shot.  I'll have to get my tank filled for my welder.   Hope it's under 1000 dollars😆

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, moe1965 said:

I like your idea Ed.  I'm gonna give it a shot.  I'll have to get my tank filled for my welder.   Hope it's under 1000 dollars😆

999 absolute tops.  

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edgro

Last time I exchanged my small tank it was $48

 

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ebinmaine

@edgro excellent work there!

 

@WHX?? And @Oldskool check this out guys.  

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edgro

Thanks. Have done this on several axles, so gar so good

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Brooklyn581

Reaching out in an older post here looking for opinions. It looks like I'm having the same problem here. Axles are beat up but the hubs are far worse. I picked up 2 new hubs with the 2nd set screw,  2 new keys and some JB weld but I don't want to get crazy on the axles if I don't have to. Definitely don't want to open up the transmission. What are everyone's thoughts?

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pfrederi

A to Z sells a hub that clamps on so the bad Keyway is not an issue.  I made a duplicate woodruff key out of brass then welded around it to fill in the gaps (weld doesn't stick to brass)  Then grinding and filing to clean it up.  if the tractor is not going to get heavy use yo can try JB weld..

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edgro

I have welded and ground down several times. Next time I think i will grind out a new keyway on the opposite side using a full length square key

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Handy Don

Given the degree of damage and assuming that you are working your machine vary hard, I’d go straight to the clamp-on style of hub from A-to-Z.

The setscrews in the hub are mainly to prevent it from moving side to side on the axle, not to prevent rotation.

Axles and hubs that do not mate tightly and evenly on the shaft and the key without any play whatsover will gradually fail.

Edited by Handy Don
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Brooklyn581

Thanks for the input. I did take a look at A-Z and it looks as though they are out of stock or no longer make the clamp on Hub in 1 1/8. Does anyone know if there is another fabricator?

 

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squonk

I would call A-Z and ask when he will have more. That stock level may not be accurate

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ebinmaine
34 minutes ago, Brooklyn581 said:

Thanks for the input. I did take a look at A-Z and it looks as though they are out of stock or no longer make the clamp on Hub in 1 1/8. Does anyone know if there is another fabricator?

 

 

2 minutes ago, squonk said:

I would call A-Z and ask when he will have more. That stock level may not be accurate

 

 

Absolutely agreed.  

 

Always CALL Lincoln.   

 

 

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Wayne0
20 hours ago, Brooklyn581 said:

Thanks for the input. I did take a look at A-Z and it looks as though they are out of stock or no longer make the clamp on Hub in 1 1/8. Does anyone know if there is another fabricator?

 

If you know your specs you can probably get them from McMaster Carr.

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