Wheelhorse#1 1,814 #26 Posted February 14, 2022 Most import thing is to change out oil regularly.It’s all just dinosaur juice. 2 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stegs 327 #27 Posted February 14, 2022 Just a fyi If you have a rural king near you, they sell kohler synthetic blend 10w30 with zinc for 5.99 a quart Also, if you have amazon you can order a 12 pack of that same oil (works out to about the same price per quart) 6 dollars isnt that much for a quality oil, that is a synthetic blend, and has your extra zinc I buy it on amazon by the case (12) and run it in my c141, 417A, and now my 520H. I even have it in my 2018 toro grandstand mower and my yamaha golf cart It seems to last forever. Golf cart i change 2 times a year. My toro grandstand it every 50 hours, and the garden tractors i shoot for 25 hours, but mostly just check the level and condition. If its darker brown it gets changed 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #28 Posted February 14, 2022 Rural King is a great store. Even better than Tractor Supply.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briankd 819 #29 Posted February 14, 2022 1 hour ago, roadapples said: Rural King is a great store. have one here locally and it junk they have bare shelves and never have what you want . you ask the store clerk and they say "i duno when they will get stock things in " Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briankd 819 #30 Posted February 14, 2022 i don't know if zinc would have helped this or not . this was my k301 after 4 hours run time when i realized the machine shop machined crank wrong . the piston had some scuffing and the bore weird looking . they cleaned right up with scotch bright on piston and ran a hone thru the block piston rings was correct end cap also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #31 Posted February 14, 2022 17 minutes ago, briankd said: 4 hours run time when i realized the machine shop machined crank wrong How did you know there was a problem? What did they do wrong that would cause scuffing of the piston and walls? That looks more to me as if it wasn't properly cleaned after the machine work. 18 minutes ago, briankd said: don't know if zinc would have helped this or not No, probably not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #32 Posted February 14, 2022 20 minutes ago, briankd said: i don't know if zinc would have helped this or not Yeah... ZDDP is mostly for cam lobes/follower protection... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,733 #33 Posted February 15, 2022 Cast iron is porous metal that needs to be cleaned with dish soap and hot water after honing or glaze breaking. The scratch lines appear to be coming from grit embedded in the surface from incomplete cleaning. No, washing it down with solvent will not completely clean it. You can get assembly lube that will help protect a new rebuild till it runs a bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
richmondred01 2,302 #34 Posted February 16, 2022 On 2/13/2022 at 3:48 PM, Jeff-C175 said: ALL oils have cut back the Zinc content! Not just NAPA. Has to do with the API specifications. WALMART has the best price on Rotella T1 straight 30W, about $17 a gallon last purchased. If you add ZDDP to the T1, ONE OZ per quart is all you need.to get to about 1200-1400 ppm of Zinc. More is NOT better! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #35 Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) PRECISELY what I use @richmondred01 I use that in the Ranger, and all my machines. @peter lena... that is the stuff I told you about... Don Edited February 16, 2022 by Snoopy11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,222 #36 Posted February 17, 2022 I called Shell's tech support line. Rotella T1 30w has 1,240 ppm zinc according to the rep. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #37 Posted February 17, 2022 45 minutes ago, Bill D said: I called Shell's tech support line. Rotella T1 30w has 1,240 ppm zinc according to the rep. I didn't think it was that high... I saw a Blackstone report somewhere on the net a while back that as I recall said something like 1000 or there about. I'll see if I can find it again. There may also have been a PDF of the MSDS that said something similar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briankd 819 #38 Posted February 17, 2022 12 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said: I didn't think it was that high... I saw a Blackstone report somewhere on the net a while back that as I recall said something like 1000 or there about. I'll see if I can find it again. There may also have been a PDF of the MSDS that said something similar. well i need to talk to our shell oil rep at work we use shell oil but he only comes around every other week . they bring 6000 gallon at a time but it is the shell rotella 15 -40 synthetic low ash oil don't know if it would work will see what he says . i could borrow a gallon they won't miss a gallon . they have the tolerances so close on the bearings in theses new Detroit diesels and we run them million plus miles should be a good oil even for small engines but wouldn't run that weight in winter in them . boss kinda funny about borrowing stuff from work zip ties electrical connections etc. and stuff lol just put it in my lunch box and bring it home Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
briankd 819 #39 Posted February 17, 2022 On 2/14/2022 at 6:44 PM, Jeff-C175 said: How did you know there was a problem? What did they do wrong that would cause scuffing of the piston and walls? That looks more to me as if it wasn't properly cleaned after the machine work. No, probably not. well after using it to roll the yard it started to have a slight knock and progressed to get louder tore it down and found they turned it down 1 thousandth too much . bought new rod and another used crank and took it to a well known machinist and now it perfect . took the block to the local guy that does alot of kolers and he didn't know why the cylinder did that . i bought new rings and run a deglazing hone thru it and it cleaned right up and i checked the ring end gaps on the new rings and they were in spec. this machine shop does alot of race and puller motors I assumed it was good when I installed the crank I won't ever use them again the other shop I used was a 2 hour drive but worth it they also used to be a big W H dealer back in the day . the owner still has a huge collection of horses when i put this together didn't quite have the governor right and i might have over speed it a bit maybe that did it ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hgpsmerk 8 #40 Posted February 21, 2022 I just recently switched to Royal Purple synthetic 30 WT oil. I use 1 1/2 qts of that with 1/2 a qt of duralube to make 2 QTS. K321 has over 3200 hours on it. No smoke and runs smooth. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #41 Posted February 21, 2022 37 minutes ago, hgpsmerk said: duralube Duralube what? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,577 #42 Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Duralube what? Probably #1. Some of these have been around forever. They all claim to do great things and have lots of testimonials and some "scientific" testing. If it makes you feel better to use this stuff I doubt it will hurt your engine...just your wallet.\ Edited February 21, 2022 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hgpsmerk 8 #43 Posted February 21, 2022 Duralube engine treatment is the one. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,733 #44 Posted February 21, 2022 Sniff Sniff Did someone spill snake oil in here? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hgpsmerk 8 #45 Posted February 21, 2022 Nope. Just constant use with 30 WT oil with a 1/2 qt of duralube engine treatment at every oil change. No Bull. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,523 #46 Posted February 21, 2022 On 2/17/2022 at 12:57 PM, briankd said: boss kinda funny about borrowing stuff from work Remind him how ANY help is hard to find these days and you heard a burger flipper at Micky D's get paid pretty well and a discount on meals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dmoore 962 #47 Posted February 26, 2022 I've been using Brad Penn (The green oil) in my muscle & classic cars for years. It is a semi-synthetic oil available in 10w30 or 10w40. I will be changing out the oil in my K301 this week and using it. Lots of zinc /phosphorous and clings to surfaces better than most anything. Great stuff! https://penngrade1.com/ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dmoore 962 #48 Posted February 26, 2022 https://penngrade1.com/products/high-performance-oils/penngrade-1-high-performance-oil-sae-30/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,902 #49 Posted March 12, 2022 i had been following the oil and zinc discussion on this thread and then came across this You Tube from Kohler that offers lots of insight to the issue of additives including zinc plus basic chemistry of oil for small engines............... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78p7hw9CZKw&t=182s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,902 #50 Posted March 12, 2022 here is a second video - much more about the science and chemistry of oil and additives and the why and how of what they do - but worth the few minutes of a science lecture Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
