SnoJet 20 #1 Posted January 12, 2022 Hello, New to group. Thanks ahead of time for the wealth of knowledge. A few months ago I got lucky and found a 90's 416H for sale with a 42" side discharge deck and plow/chains. It had been sitting for a few years in a garage. 220 hours, original owner, with the manual. Very nice shape with a new battery. $200. Needless to say I bought it immediately! I needed to remove the tank and flush it clean with new gas, replace the fuel filter, and clean the carb. It runs very well. Both the engine and hydro were serviced at 200 hours but I am going to service them anyway as it was 12 years ago! The manual states 30 W oil for operating temps 30-100F and 10W-30 for 0-30F. Here in PA the overwhelming majority of times it will be 30-100F while mowing in the summer but occasionally it snows and I will be plowing. It's very rare that I would be plowing in extreme cold but in the 20's is likely. I am a bit shocked that the manual suggests 10-30 only for temps below 30F! So... any recommendation for 30W vs 10-30? Filter- Napa 1762 for the engine and Napa 1410 for the Hydro- Are these correct? Also- I am not sure of the year. I attached a picture. Hydro control on the column. Model 73421 S/N 3900541. The seat isn't cracked buy the edge material has come loose and despite my efforts I am unable to compress the foam enough to get the edging back on. Any tricks for this? Thanks for listening and checking out my new tractor. This is my second Horse but first hydro and so far I love it. It was a joy to sell my 2015 x300 John Deere and get back on the Horse at a fraction of the cost! Now I can mow, plow, and move my trailers around. I do wish it mulched and that hydro pedal kit might be in my future! Sorry for the long post. IMG_7238.HEIC 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chaz54 79 #2 Posted January 12, 2022 The Model 73421 S/N 3900541 makes it a 1993. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 10,762 #3 Posted January 12, 2022 Were you wearing a Do you see red light in your rearview mirror! You stole that horse with those low hours and that price! I'm in the warm state of Texas so I don't have to worry about low temp unless we have another Snowmageodon like last February. Your really concerned about oil viscosity at the time of startup. So from an oil standpoint, do you keep your Horse in a warm garage? NAPA 1410 is the correct Hydro filter. You've found the most helpful site on the net, others will be along with more info 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 67,015 #4 Posted January 12, 2022 Horse Thief! You know you got a great deal, we don’t have to tell you three or four times! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,177 #5 Posted January 12, 2022 WOW!!! I've had a few 'good' buys but I cant come close to that 'steal' Welcome to the crazy home (crazy for horses!) Lots of good people here and can answer most any question/problem you might come up with. What oil?? That one comes up often - and since I'm 'down south' like @oliver2-44 Below 32° is pretty rare, so I use straight 30wt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 67,015 #6 Posted January 12, 2022 As for northern oil, I too use 30W. I’m pretty sure the normal consensus is that changing oil of any kind is better than most! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,537 #7 Posted January 12, 2022 I’m in Michigan and I run straight 30 wt rear round… 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 42,114 #8 Posted January 12, 2022 Gotta ask, any interest in doubling your money.??? I see a for sale sign...was that just sitting in a yard? I live on the other side of the river from you and it was never on Marketplace or Craigslist or I would own it. to the 2 1 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SnoJet 20 #9 Posted January 12, 2022 Wow- thanks for all of the feedback and year ID! While the tractor stays in the garage it isn't heated. I am firm believer in always allowing an engine to warm up sufficiently before introducing a load. I guess 30W or 10-30W isn't really going to matter. I took a closer look at my seat. I need to try to re-glue the cloth-backed vinyl to steel frame. Contact cement and clamps will be my first attempt. Thanks everyone. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SnoJet 20 #10 Posted January 12, 2022 1 minute ago, Ed Kennell said: Gotta ask, any interest in doubling your money.??? I see a for sale sign...was that just sitting in a yard? I live on the other side of the river from you and it was never on Marketplace or Craigslist or I would own it. to the Hello Ed- a gentleman had just pushed it out to the edge of his driveway as I was on my way to work. I pulled over, asked about 3 questions and gave him $40 to hold it until I could come back at the end of the day with my trailer. Luckily he stood by his word and held it for me. My son tried it out by mowing the lawn and it ran fine at first but then started starving for fuel. My son and I took it apart and cleaned the fuel system and carb. New gas, fuel filter and fuel line and we were in business! I used it all summer without issue. It still idles a bit "uneven/surgy". I will be cleaning the carb again as it was a mess and very hard to clean well without completely removing! Thanks for the offer but I am holding on to this one for a bit! I just plowed with it for the first time last week- what a treat! Hoping for more snow soon! Thanks 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SnoJet 20 #11 Posted January 12, 2022 2 more questions if you don't mind- Does anyone like the "recycler" deck? My one gripe with this is the side discharge blowing grass everywhere. Also- when I raise or lower the deck the hydraulic system works great but sounds a bit like it is against it's limit while in mid stroke. Hard to explain and could just be the nature of the beast. Perhaps a new filter and oil will change the sound a bit. Thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #12 Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) I'll throw my hat in the loo... Here is my analysis. Mobil-1 10w-30... year 'round. This replaces 10w oils completely. The fact is, the 10 in 10w-30 is defining how well the oil flows in cold temps. The 30 is how well it flows in hot temps. Regardless, engines cold crank even on a 60 degree day. The oil isn't as thick... obviously as it would be if the temp was 30 degrees... but when you have an oil that can survive hundreds of degrees, 60-70-90 degrees at resting temperature does not seem like a lot. Higher quality 10w-30 oils can maintain their viscosity in warmer temperatures (thus why you don't want to buy low quality oil). SO... if you use a high quality 10w-30 oil, both SAE 30 and 10W30 act the same at 100°C. You could pick any cool Spring or fall day, and do your own test. Take some 30w oil and pour it into a bowl. Take the 10w-30 and pour it into a bowl. The 10w-30 will be notably less thick. However, you do the same test on a 90 degree day, and you won't be able to tell the difference between the oils. Ambient temperature above 60°F... feel free to use straight 10w... but it isn't necessary. Run quality 10w30... and never think about it again... I also recommend: Lucas @peter lena and Klotz Now... I go slither back under my rock... Don Edited January 12, 2022 by Snoopy11 oil choices 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #13 Posted January 12, 2022 2 hours ago, pacer said: Welcome to the crazy home Thus... why my signature says... Wheel Horse Forum: You may be normal when you come here, but you won't be when you leave! Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #15 Posted January 12, 2022 3 minutes ago, roadapples said: @roadapples... you reminded me... I almost forgot... to Redsquare!!! Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,301 #16 Posted January 12, 2022 @Snoopy11 agree with your oil theory , my son has his 312-8 , like 17 years , always used Mobil 1 , 10 30 oil , lives in Vermont , never had any kind of oil problem or issue , he thoroughly services his unit regularly , and its been bombproof. obviousely there are a lot of variables to lubrication , but agree with your , quality 10-30 oil . just like to keep in touch with the horses, and get on anything early . pete 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SnoJet 20 #17 Posted January 12, 2022 Would you also recommend full synthetic (Mobil 1) 10-30 for the hydro as well? It would be great to buy one oil for both hydro and engine. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #18 Posted January 12, 2022 2 minutes ago, SnoJet said: Would you also recommend full synthetic (Mobil 1) 10-30 for the hydro as well? It would be great to buy one oil for both hydro and engine. That is precisely what I use, yes sir. Might be able to get away with buying a gallon and 1 small quart... (not positive on that calculation right off hand)... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #19 Posted January 12, 2022 Better get 2 gallon. Transmission holds 4-5 quart.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WheelhorseBob 1,550 #20 Posted January 13, 2022 6 hours ago, Snoopy11 said: I'll throw my hat in the loo... Here is my analysis. Mobil-1 10w-30... year 'round. This replaces 10w oils completely. The fact is, the 10 in 10w-30 is defining how well the oil flows in cold temps. The 30 is how well it flows in hot temps. Regardless, engines cold crank even on a 60 degree day. The oil isn't as thick... obviously as it would be if the temp was 30 degrees... but when you have an oil that can survive hundreds of degrees, 60-70-90 degrees at resting temperature does not seem like a lot. Higher quality 10w-30 oils can maintain their viscosity in warmer temperatures (thus why you don't want to buy low quality oil). SO... if you use a high quality 10w-30 oil, both SAE 30 and 10W30 act the same at 100°C. You could pick any cool Spring or fall day, and do your own test. Take some 30w oil and pour it into a bowl. Take the 10w-30 and pour it into a bowl. The 10w-30 will be notably less thick. However, you do the same test on a 90 degree day, and you won't be able to tell the difference between the oils. Ambient temperature above 60°F... feel free to use straight 10w... but it isn't necessary. Run quality 10w30... and never think about it again... I also recommend: Lucas @peter lena and Klotz Now... I go slither back under my rock... Don Ok you got me to bite. My name is bob but I’m not the oil guy. Modern SN rated oils should be avoided and that includes Mobil 1. In any viscosity. Diesel oils are better and Rotella in 15-40 or straight 30should suffice. Other than that look for a straight 30 that has a rating of sl, sj, or sh. Lowe’s carries one called pro select and TSC has Briggs oil in those ratings. Your flat tappets will thank you. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #21 Posted January 13, 2022 4 minutes ago, WheelhorseBob said: Ok you got me to bite. My name is bob but I’m not the oil guy. Modern SN rated oils should be avoided and that includes Mobil 1. In any viscosity. Diesel oils are better and Rotella in 15-40 or straight 30should suffice. Other than that look for a straight 30 that has a rating of sl, sj, or sh. Lowe’s carries one called pro select and TSC has Briggs oil in those ratings. Your flat tappets will thank you. No problem here buddy! I like the discussion. I know that oil conversations can get... ugly... but it won't go there with me... as I won't attack your logic or experience. NOW... let's dig in! You realize that those are API ratings... correct? API ratings for the automotive world, may I add. Feel free to explain more of why those ratings are important in our conversation. And that the most important aspect for flat tappets is ZDDP. Mobil-1 has high(er) levels of ZDDP than many other brands... thus why it is recommended by certain small engine performance groups. (That, lucas, or Royal Purple). I have some experience with royal purple... not enough to make me want to use it all the time. Just my experience. Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,206 #22 Posted January 13, 2022 I use Rotelle T1 straight 30 with 1 oz of ZDDP per quart. API classifications dictate the amounts of additives included in the blend. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,270 #24 Posted January 13, 2022 18 hours ago, SnoJet said: My son and I took it apart and cleaned the fuel system and carb. New gas, fuel filter and fuel line and we were in business! I used it all summer without issue. It still idles a bit "uneven/surgy". I will be cleaning the carb again as it was a mess and very hard to clean well without completely removing! Many fuel related problems are caused by the ethanol in most gas today. If you change over to ethanol free gas and add some Sea Foam gas treatment that should help. This site will tell you where to get gas without ethanol, https://www.pure-gas.org/ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,258 #25 Posted January 13, 2022 (edited) 23 hours ago, SylvanLakeWH said: I’m in Michigan and I run straight 30 wt rear round… Down here I put that s**t in everything. Actually I use their SAE 40 in any of my old flathead engines, those old L heads are pretty dirty running engines with no filters. If you run a 10w30 in them you'll burn a little more oil than the straight weight. Your 16 hp has a filter and tighter tolerance especially with only 200 hr. I would think any quality 10w30. be it straight, a blend, or synthetic well work just fine all year round, just depends on how much you want to spend. We sometimes tend to over think thing here, it's a 16hp garden tractor designed to do what it's suppose to do with the oil the manufacture recommends, it's not a Bugatti Veyron . Edited January 13, 2022 by clueless 7 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
