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DeepH2O

Broken Bolt Help

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DeepH2O

In process of restoring my 312-8. Aghhhhh!! Ran into my first headache!! Was going to remove the engine covers for painting. I tried 2 the other day. BOTH heads broke off, leaving the rest of bolt in the block! I tried drilling out and removing with bolt extractor. Couldn’t get it to budge. I applied some heat to it and the darn bolt extractor broke off in the bolt. I know it’s harder steel than the bit! Well, to add insult to injury, my dumb butt attempted a 3rd bolt after heating it up. It BROKE!! Now, the cover is partially loose. I’m stumped now! 

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Maxwell-8

Looks like it wasn't your luckiest day..

 

The previous owner tighten the heck out of it.

 

It is to late now, but a tip. First tighten the bolt a hair, before unscrewing. It sounds backwards but helped me out a numerous occasions.

Edited by Maxwell-8
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953 nut

Those bolts are steel and are threaded into aluminum resulting in "Galvanic Corrosion".  The best procedure I have found is to begin by tightening the bolt a bit first then begin to remove it.

@Maxwell-8 beat me.

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squonk

You can buy another head and bearing plate.

Edited by squonk
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Gregor

If you are taking the head and bearing plate off, they will be much easier to deal with. I have done the same thing, and have tapped some out to 5/16.

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oliver2-44

Yep, I suspect most of us have broken some of those same engine bolts off. On the remaining bolt you might heat the bolt head up with a brazing torch tip, then let it cool.  Soak it with you favorite penetrating oil several times over a days time. Then as others have said tighten then loosen just a little, tighten a little a little, loosen and repeat. When you reassemble be sure to use some anti-seize compound , especially on those steel in aluminum bolts. 

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DeepH2O

Do you guys know if there’s a difference in size of cylinder head on 10 & 12 HP Kohlers? I found one on EBay but it’s labeled part number KH10261 and advertises it’s for a 310-8. But, part number for 310-8 is KH10260 (10HP). I’m assuming since there’s different part numbers they’re different sizes. 

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Pullstart

If you have access to a welder, set a 5/16 or 3/8” nut over top of the broken parts.  Run the temp high and feed slow.  Fill the hole in and the weld wire will only stick to the steel parts.  It should turn out once cooled.  You can even use that heat cycle to quench the threads with some wax or oil.  It’ll pull it down deep into the threads.

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Snoopy11

I concur with @Pullstart

 

Either use a nut, or use a small wrench "using the round end" and fill the end of the wrench, holding the welding rod further away then normal to build up in the wrench.

 

Bolt should turn.

 

I used this method in the past (and there are videos of it online)... works very well if you have access to a welder! :banana-dance:

 

If you don't have access to a welder, I would go with @squonk's suggestion :)

 

Don

Edited by Snoopy11
more info

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DeepH2O
23 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

I concur with @Pullstart

 

Either use a nut, or use a small wrench "using the round end" and fill the end of the wrench, holding the welding rod further away then normal to build up in the wrench.

 

Bolt should turn.

 

I used this method in the past (and there are videos of it online)... works very well if you have access to a welder! :banana-dance:

 

If you don't have access to a welder, I would go with @squonk's suggestion :)

 

Don

I don’t have access to welder although I’ve been looking for a reason to get one. But, I’m already close to over budget for this project. May have to wait. I’ve already ordered a head, not having any luck finding bearing plate. 

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, DeepH2O said:

I don’t have access to welder although I’ve been looking for a reason to get one. But, I’m already close to over budget for this project. May have to wait. I’ve already ordered a head, not having any luck finding bearing plate. 

Get a JEGS 110... (Jegs Part Number: 555-81540)

 

Very good starter welder, and not that expensive! :banana-dance:

 

Don

Edited by Snoopy11
Part number

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pacer

OK, heres a thought on the fan shroud --- IIRC the nut is tack welded to the back side of the shroud, you might be able to use , say, a Dremel/diegrinder and cut the tack weld at the tack points removing the nut, clean it up and JB weld another nut to the shroud --- JB weld epoxy is some good stuff!!

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Maxwell-8
9 minutes ago, DeepH2O said:

over budget for this project.

That's how it goes.. 

Happens to me every single time. haha

I already have €1000/$1130 in my c141D and it ain't even running.

Just under €1000/$1130 in my raider 10.

With both I was hoping to stay under 800€/$900.

The C175 is still within budget :dance:

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

$1130

I've got a couple grand in HellHorse... (most of that is just the engine alone...)... and the $800 blade... :rolleyes:

 

Don

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Maxwell-8
12 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

I've got a couple grand in HellHorse... (most of that is just the engine alone...)... and the $800 blade... :rolleyes:

for a student a grand in a horse is more then enough haha

Do you guys in the US also pay 50% tax on your earnings? 

On average person earns 3000$/month, they have to give $1500 of that to the government. 

Edited by Maxwell-8
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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, Maxwell-8 said:

for a student a grand in a horse is more then enough haha

Do you guys in the US also pay 50% tax on your loan? 

On average person earns 3000$/month, they have to give $1500 of that to the government. 

We have to pay tax, close, but not quite 50%.

 

The interest on my loans is what kills me... it ranges from 12-20%

 

Working while in college... you are correct. Half of what you earn in your job goes back to the government to pay for your loans...

 

Don

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RED-Z06

I broke one off on the M12 in my 312-8, still have like 5 others intact so im just going to pretend i didn't see it..🤫

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DeepH2O
13 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

I broke one off on the M12 in my 312-8, still have like 5 others intact so im just going to pretend i didn't see it..🤫

I’m wishing I would’ve stopped at 1 😩

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DeepH2O

Right now, I’m at $870 w/ paint and parts. But, I’m my eyes, this being my Dads Horse, and him passing in June, the Horse is priceless.

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DeepH2O
33 minutes ago, pacer said:

OK, heres a thought on the fan shroud --- IIRC the nut is tack welded to the back side of the shroud, you might be able to use , say, a Dremel/diegrinder and cut the tack weld at the tack points removing the nut, clean it up and JB weld another nut to the shroud --- JB weld epoxy is some good stuff!!

No nut tack welded. BUT, one of them has some threads on back side that I can possibly work with. Would have to remove fan and flywheel. Do you guys think I’ll open up a bigger can of worms? Should I just leave it be?

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WHX??

Kev's idea is the best but you will find a ton of threads here on the broken bolt subject. We've all been through it. As far as the over budget yep we been ther done that too. 

Here's a pic of over budget, tractor and rider! 

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Snoopy11
3 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

20200419_133155.jpg

Who is prettier?

 

Hmm... who will slap me in the face if I say... the horse... :confusion-confused: :scared-eek:  :hide: :bow-blue:

 

:laughing-rolling:

 

Don

Edited by Snoopy11
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Gregor

Budget?  we don't need no stinkin' budget!1699856485_20210331_170045(2).jpg.828c7c886bf0dddd4e6277a042b3ef7a.jpg

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Snoopy11

@Gregor... your tractors are beautiful as well.

 

I think... every one of your Horses that I have seen... I have loved! :banana-dance:

 

Don

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