ebinmaine 71,935 #26 Posted November 29, 2021 2 hours ago, ri702bill said: Eric: Perhaps he used it to check the runout on sawblades??? Now that there is a real possibility because this guy would have come from the days when you got saws sharpened, not replaced. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,367 #27 Posted December 1, 2021 Here they use one for measuring If their is a bad bearing: 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #28 Posted December 1, 2021 Interesting, but I would not call that end play. I would call it radial play. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 41,429 #29 Posted December 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Gregor said: Interesting, but I would not call that end play. I would call it radial play. Yep. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,472 #30 Posted December 1, 2021 On 11/29/2021 at 8:15 AM, ebinmaine said: very well known for starting a project to mess with it some and then not finishing it. Often on purpose. Sounds like @19richie66..... I use this one for checking crank end play. Was at the bottom of a box of junk at auction for 5 bucks! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #31 Posted December 1, 2021 5 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said: Here they use one for measuring If their is a bad bearing: I watched the entire video. Yeah. I am that bored. In the video the guy replaces bearing races in the axle housing. He uses a mig welder to weld a bead around the races, in order to shrink them, to make them easier to get out. Before installing the new races he puts them into the freezer to shrink them, to make them easier to put in. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,935 #32 Posted December 1, 2021 41 minutes ago, Gregor said: I watched the entire video. Yeah. I am that bored. In the video the guy replaces bearing races in the axle housing. He uses a mig welder to weld a bead around the races, in order to shrink them, to make them easier to get out. Before installing the new races he puts them into the freezer to shrink them, to make them easier to put in. Wicked neat trick for when you have very tight tolerance interference press fit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,984 #33 Posted December 1, 2021 41 minutes ago, Gregor said: Before installing the new races he puts them into the freezer to shrink them, to make them easier to put in. That's what I did when rebuilding motorcycle engines. I used to put the crankcases in the oven to warm them up as well. Not when my mother and later ex wife was at home of course. B.O.T. I've three dial test indicators and a magnetic base. My late fathers and uncles plus one I got with the lathe I bought. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #34 Posted December 1, 2021 On 11/29/2021 at 5:47 AM, Gregor said: With the amount of time involved, I would think it would be just as cheap to buy a new rim. Hand laced rim patterns are stronger than machine laced simple pattern. Main article: Bicycle wheel Most conventional bicycle wheels now use 32 or 36 spokes front and rear, although the asymmetry of the rear wheel (to allow for the cluster of sprockets), and the additional weight it carries, means it benefits from having more spokes than the front. Commonly used models vary from 18 spokes for racing bikes to 36 for cross-country touring bikes to 48 spokes on tandems and heavily abused BMX bikes. The minimum number of spokes allowed for competition is 12.[1] Some lowrider bicycles use as many as 144 brightly chromed spokes per wheel, although these are not meant for serious riding. Wheels can be built by machine instead of by hand. However, machine-built wheels are rarely as satisfactory as handbuilt wheels, partly because it is uneconomical to allow the machine to spend long enough on each wheel for a perfect result but also because most machines leave spokes with some residual twist. Machine-built wheels can be identified by their lacing pattern (if it is not radial), as the spokes are laced the same on each side, rather than mirrored as on hand-built wheels[citation needed]. More modern "factory built" wheels such as Mavic's Ksyrium series are of quite different construction from that of a conventional wheel, trading a deeper and stronger rim for fewer spokes. They are popular, and quite light (in the more expensive models) but not as durable, readily repairable or maintainable as a conventional wheel. Stainless steel is the most common material for spokes, although most mass-produced budget wheels use galvanized steel spokes. Other materials such as titanium or aluminum are often used to reduce weight. Some wheels are designed around carbon fiber spokes, which are often completely integrated with the hub and rim and bladed in shape. Non-steel spokes are normally reserved for racing bikes and other specialist applications where weight, aerodynamics and performance are valued over durability and cost. Rims were traditionally made of steel but currently aluminum is by far most common and best choice due to its light weight, high durability and stiffness. Wood is also used. Composite materials such as carbon fiber are sometimes used, typically for racing competitions such as time trial, triathlon and track cycling, although carbon fiber is becoming more common for recreational uses such as road cycling or mountain biking due to its looks, strength and feel. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 71,935 #35 Posted December 1, 2021 Back in the mid 80s from the time I was maybe 12 or 13 up until 17? 18? I had a lot to do with BMX and freestyle bikes. Friends of mine owned a bike store in town and I helped them out occasionally. Back then at 20 inch rim was the standard. Seems to me we had spoke counts of 24 28 32 36 48 and 72. I kind of remember some racing rims with a 16 count but I'm not sure I ever saw one. Higher spoke counts used thinner wire spokes so even though there was twice as many they didn't actually weigh that much more and the strength difference was quite a bit. My friend's dad used to build enough wheels by hand that he didn't even use a jig. Straightening was done by mounting the wheel and spinning in my hand then touching the side of the rim with a very expensive tool called a magic marker. 😃 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #36 Posted December 1, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: Wicked neat trick for when you have very tight tolerance interference press fit. I understand that, but, in one instance he heats up the race, (to shrink it) in the housing, to remove it from the housing. In the other instance, he freezes the race,(to shrink it) to install in the housing. I can see freezing it, I have done the same thing, when installing INTO the housing. Unless welding ALL THE WAY around it, sucks it in. Edited December 1, 2021 by Gregor 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,984 #37 Posted December 1, 2021 I think, and only say think, when welded the race has only one way to expand and that's in. It does work though. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites