414-8 upper steering shaft thoughts

[Mustang67ford 234]

Got the upper steering shaft out due to play in the lower block and at dash bushing.  Here are photos.  Is it worth saving, or replace it? The teeth look worn and there is shaft wear at the dash bushing an inch wide.  The end of the shaft where it goes in the lower block measures about 3/4", not sure if its worn or not.  Also, the diameter of the hole where the steering wheel pin goes is 1/4", is that correct? 

Edited November 28, 2021 by Mustang67ford

[peter lena 9,278]

@Mustang67ford looks pretty worn to me , too much wear to compensate for , if you can pick up an entire set up , that is not sloppy in wear areas , broken record , lucas x tra hd chassis grease , would not have happened , use this a reference ,https://thebigbearingstore.com/3-4-two-bolt-flange-bearing-ucfl204-12/  , have these on my horses , in dash area , very strong ,no issues , look up amazon , with that size . if interested , you  have related opportunity to upgrade a few things while you are there , with the dash open , pete 

[Mustang67ford 234]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford looks pretty worn to me , too much wear to compensate for , if you can pick up an entire set up , that is not sloppy in wear areas , broken record , lucas x tra hd chassis grease , would not have happened , use this a reference ,https://thebigbearingstore.com/3-4-two-bolt-flange-bearing-ucfl204-12/  , have these on my horses , in dash area , very strong ,no issues , look up amazon , with that size . if interested , you  have related opportunity to upgrade a few things while you are there , with the dash open , pete 

Thanks.  For that flanged bearing you mentioned, is that the one to get? Also, does it fit or do I have to widen the dash hole? What else should I upgrade while opened up?

Edited November 28, 2021 by Mustang67ford

[pacer 3,177]

Yeah, thats way beyond help, start looking to replace it and ---- likely, all of it!

[rmaynard 16,299]

@Mustang67ford I just got a 1992 416-8 that I am parting. I will take a look at the parts you might need and see what is left. If the parts are okay, I am giving all profit to Wounded Warriors or Tunnel to Towers. I don't know where you are in PA (good reason to put your town as well as the state), but you might be able to pick it up and save postage. 

[peter lena 9,278]

@Mustang67ford  ist photo , that stack of washers , is the slop on the end of your PTO LEVER  , at least 3/8" or more . do that and lubricate related linkage . that elastic nut is on side of the flange bearing on my steering column , the heim joint on my pto foward rod , makes for consistent smooth easy engagement  the ground rail next to battery , that the pto lever ends at , add a 4 ga ground wire from battery ground bolt to that same spot , down to corner of engine to frame , last photo , also note the battery tender plug in mounted on the choke cable , quick easy plug in . that added ground point can also go to your RECTIFIER mount bolts for improved grounding , and on to headlights grounding . just some ideas , on my 3 horses , pete   

 

[peter lena 9,278]

@Mustang67ford  you do not have to enlarge the hole to mount that flange bearing , pete

[Mustang67ford 234]

5 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford  ist photo , that stack of washers , is the slop on the end of your PTO LEVER  , at least 3/8" or more . do that and lubricate related linkage . that elastic nut is on side of the flange bearing on my steering column , the heim joint on my pto foward rod , makes for consistent smooth easy engagement  the ground rail next to battery , that the pto lever ends at , add a 4 ga ground wire from battery ground bolt to that same spot , down to corner of engine to frame , last photo , also note the battery tender plug in mounted on the choke cable , quick easy plug in . that added ground point can also go to your RECTIFIER mount bolts for improved grounding , and on to headlights grounding . just some ideas , on my 3 horses , pete   

 

Great info, thanks.

[Mustang67ford 234]

5 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford  you do not have to enlarge the hole to mount that flange bearing , pete

Good to know, will order the bearing.

[Handy Don 14,063]

21 hours ago, Mustang67ford said:

Good to know, will order the bearing.

You will need to get the steering wheel off the shaft to get the shaft through the bearing. Separating steering wheels from their shafts being one of the true tests of WH repair craftsmanship.

[Cee245 827]

I was just in this boat... just replaced the steering block theat the steering shaft goes into. I also put a flange bushing on the upper part of the steering shaft and eli.inated the other bushing and snap ring clip... the flange bearing on top, I needed to drill 2 holes. 

I got lucky and after 3 days of PB blaster soaking, I was able to use a 7/32" roll pin punch and got the steering wheel off rather easily. 

[Mustang67ford 234]

On 11/28/2021 at 5:21 PM, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford  you do not have to enlarge the hole to mount that flange bearing , pete

Does the bearing you mentioned go on top the dash lip or the bottom like cee245 posted above?  Also, when you drill the 2 mounting holes, how do you make sure the shaft is at the correct angle / location thru the dash so the bottom block does not wear?

[Lee1977 7,214]

This is what I used. 

It's the same flange bearing as on the lower shaft.  I just line up to center the existing hole.

[Cee245 827]

@Lee1977

I think I did the same as you?  

 

NOTE:

In my Pic above, I had to pull the steering shaft again and install the original collar on the bottom of the new flange bearing so the steering shaft is secure. 

[Cee245 827]

@Mustang67ford as you can see I put a flange bearing on the bottom.  It's a custom job, I don't think there is room to put it on top.

[Mustang67ford 234]

On 11/28/2021 at 2:48 PM, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford looks pretty worn to me , too much wear to compensate for , if you can pick up an entire set up , that is not sloppy in wear areas , broken record , lucas x tra hd chassis grease , would not have happened , use this a reference ,https://thebigbearingstore.com/3-4-two-bolt-flange-bearing-ucfl204-12/  , have these on my horses , in dash area , very strong ,no issues , look up amazon , with that size . if interested , you  have related opportunity to upgrade a few things while you are there , with the dash open , pete 

@peter lena, is that the same bearing you use?  It looks like there are set screws, do you need to use them?  Did you put it on the bottom side of the dash?  Thanks.

[peter lena 9,278]

@Mustang67ford put mine on top side , yes used the set screws , if your mount set up is different , use either side to benefit your fit. also added  couple of pieces of metal side to side from bolt mount holes to increase the lateral strength. very strong and solid now. also did some wiring improvements while in the area , like eliminate tight curving , chafing wires. found a cracked , powdery , plug in ,connection . replaced that , added wire cable wrap and secure mounts , just went from wire to wire , and verify connection, thats the time to do it , you are right there . emphasize  check as you go on any repair , so you do not come to the end , and where did you loose your gain?  my mistakes of the past , have taught me to pay attention and take advantage of the OPPORTUIITY , to correct anything while there , pete  

[peter lena 9,278]

@Cee245 refering to  open dash / battery tray picture , did I pester you about the opportunity to tighten up your pto lever?  see it ? to the left side of starter switch, cotter pin and washer coming thru side of  battery tray. typically add 3/8" or more of washers and lubricant to that sloppy point , firms up and improves pto leverage and function . lube detail every movement point , to make it slick and solid . also note the pull in on the side of the dash area , lube that area too . use the opportunity of area exposure to find and get things better (  only if you want to  )  saw a few other areas that could use a tune up , but just how i see things , pete 

[Mustang67ford 234]

11 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Mustang67ford put mine on top side , yes used the set screws , if your mount set up is different , use either side to benefit your fit. also added  couple of pieces of metal side to side from bolt mount holes to increase the lateral strength. very strong and solid now. also did some wiring improvements while in the area , like eliminate tight curving , chafing wires. found a cracked , powdery , plug in ,connection . replaced that , added wire cable wrap and secure mounts , just went from wire to wire , and verify connection, thats the time to do it , you are right there . emphasize  check as you go on any repair , so you do not come to the end , and where did you loose your gain?  my mistakes of the past , have taught me to pay attention and take advantage of the OPPORTUIITY , to correct anything while there , pete  

Thanks.  Was already thinking of adding a piece of metal strip as that area is quite flimsy.  Glad you mentioned it so at least I'm not the only one thinking it.

Edited December 20, 2021 by Mustang67ford

[peter lena 9,278]

@Mustang67ford , regularly improve exposed areas ,  TAKE ADVANTAGE OF WHAT YOU HAVE UNCOVERED, AND MAKE THAT BETTER TOO,  only if you want to . if it has to be nut / bolt original , I  do not worry about the w/h police, upgrade /improve as you go . your related problems will go away . seen too many problem areas that are a quick fix , to not fix them , the solid reliability state  my horses are in , is what I want , take advantage of a problem , study , ITS INTENDED FUNCTION , make it better at every stage , done that at every PIA, make it go away.  done many middle of the night , call in failure / repair responses.  you can bet that I did a failure design set up change . anything else you might need give me a shout , pete

[Cee245 827]

@peter lena thanks for the reminder to fix or lube things that are accessible while working on another issue. It is appreciated

[peter lena 9,278]

@Cee245 , I see that all over the original set up , tight chafing wiring with , cracked / powdery shorting connections ? not only renew that area , but reroute it , eliminate sloppy wiring and CABLE WRAP THAT ,  use stick on tye wrap mounts , clean mount / stick point, lets you make a good upgrade. I often refer to easy things like this , after reading about another  member having the same problem .  look up , CABLE WRAP AND  STICK ON  TYE WRAP MOUNTS , both are probably available at your local H/W store or local big box store.  by the way after a change out of the problem area , the reliability issue very solid , once doing that , you look for the next  PIA . this is a no brainer for me , chronic problems  let me look at a total re do , to a problem . do something easy , build confidence , constantly verify your gain , good luck with it , pete 

[Mustang67ford 234]

@peter lena, I got the bearing, but there is no way I can get it to fit into the upper console.  If I put it on the bottom, it sticks out thru the front.  Bearing seems way too big so not sure what I am missing.  Here are some pics.  Did they send me the wrong thing?  Any photos of your install so I could match?

[peter lena 9,278]

@Mustang67ford  that looks like the bearing , had very little to curve on dash area , but on the other  hand , your shaft  needs replacing  , still you should be able to do a mock build up to see what will work. I  built mounting area , and went for the best fit . sitting horizontally on cross brace . mine fit in there , you should be close to getting its spot , pete

[dalez 139]

Looks like you bought a better bearing and housing. The one on the tractors are just thin steel housing not cast. If you look right behind the pivot for the front axle you will see the bearing you need. See post #13

Edited December 31, 2021 by dalez
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