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D_Mac

My Little Pony

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squonk
1 hour ago, D_Mac said:

. Then I used it to cut the grass in the front yard. Did a really nice job..

 

 

Nobody started playing a Calliope whilst you were out there? :lol:

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pfrederi

Someone hacked your belt guard.  That is why you are having gear grinding.  You could get a new belt guard form A to Z or elsewhere  In the interim you could fabricate some steel rod to make a support under the crank pulley.   Belt guard should look like this.  Yellow line approximates what you need.  Ignore my bent rods they were for the snowblower

 

 

belt.JPG

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IMG_0316.JPG

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D_Mac

Ok so after work today I went out to the garage to address the grinding of the gears. I noticed the tab on the end of the belt guard was bent way back. I bent it up towards the pulley.  I also made a bracket to hold the belt closer to the engine pulley so it will balloon off of the transmission pulley. Sounded good on paper but it didn't seem to help. I'm wondering if the wrong size belt is on. Anyone know the proper length? Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I also drilled holes and put this seat on it. I planned on using this seat on the 875. Guess I still need to find another.

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Handy Don
3 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Ok so after work today I went out to the garage to address the grinding of the gears. I noticed the tab on the end of the belt guard was bent way back. I bent it up towards the pulley.  I also made a bracket to hold the belt closer to the engine pulley so it will balloon off of the transmission pulley. Sounded good on paper but it didn't seem to help. I'm wondering if the wrong size belt is on. Anyone know the proper length? Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I also drilled holes and put this seat on it. I planned on using this seat on the 875. Guess I still need to find another.

20210918_173715.jpg

 

 

The tab should be clear of the belt when the clutch pedal is released. The tab should touch the belt when the clutch pedal is depressed and the belt gets a little slack. In other words, the tab should apply friction only when the pedal is depressed to stop the belt turning.

Belt is part # 1576 in my OM.  the internet parts guru shows that as widely available for under $10 as a 4LK 1/2 x 70in OC.

 

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D_Mac

Well I went to tractor supply and picked up a new belt for this little pony. Got home and installed it and it worked perfectly. No more gear grinding when putting it in gear. So I decided to mow the back yard with it.  Got halfway done and it just stopped. Ughhhh. Engine just quit. Pulled it a few times and nothing. Pushed it back in the garage. Look at it later.

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D_Mac

Went out after dinner. One pull it started up again. <head scratch>. So I took the blower housing off. Cleaned out a small nest. I also ran the fuel line through it like it should be. I always said how easy it is to work on Wheel Horse tractors. Who ever designed these Lawn Rangers ??? Nothing is easy with these little horses.

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Handy Don
53 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

Went out after dinner. One pull it started up again. <head scratch>. So I took the blower housing off. Cleaned out a small nest. I also ran the fuel line through it like it should be. I always said how easy it is to work on Wheel Horse tractors. Who ever designed these Lawn Rangers ??? Nothing is easy with these little horses.

I had mine running the other day (still a list of to-dos, but hey, grab some fun when you can)!

It has the dozer/snow plow and I was disappointed that there wasn't anything I could find that needed plowing around my house. Mentioned it to a friend and he invited me over later this week (with the LR) to level out a pile of gravel at his house--oughta be fun to see what this little guy can do. There will be pictures, of course. 

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pfrederi
1 hour ago, D_Mac said:

Went out after dinner. One pull it started up again. <head scratch>. So I took the blower housing off. Cleaned out a small nest. I also ran the fuel line through it like it should be. I always said how easy it is to work on Wheel Horse tractors. Who ever designed these Lawn Rangers ??? Nothing is easy with these little horses.

If you think Lawn Rangers are difficult to work  on do not ever buy a D series:P

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D_Mac
46 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

If you think Lawn Rangers are difficult to work  on do not ever buy a D series:P

Its just you have to remove the steering wheel and unbolt the hood to remove that. I had to take the seat and the rear fender off to remove the belt guard. No Tach-a-matic for the deck. Pain in the butt compared to other models.

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Handy Don
6 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

No Tach-a-matic for the deck.

The plow on/off is quite challenging, too, but remember none of the early 60's horses had the slick attachamatic!

 

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D_Mac

Well went out again this morning gave it 2 pulls and it fired right up again. Don't know why it quit on me yesterday. I did notice seemed very hot when I was mowing. Maybe because of the muffler style ? Anyways I have a new battery for it. Might install it later today.

 

 

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rjg854

how's the vent on the gas cap?

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pfrederi

Muffler is not correct.  Should be a pepper pot type aimed out to the side.  That much heat trapped next to the carb may cause issue of gas boiling in the carb bowl.

 

You also are missing the piping and support bracket for the muffler.  Thinking motor may not be original...

 

 

muffler.JPG

muff 2.JPG

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Handy Don
15 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Muffler is not correct.  Should be a pepper pot type aimed out to the side.  That much heat trapped next to the carb may cause issue of gas boiling in the carb bowl.

 

You also are missing the piping and support bracket for the muffler.  Thinking motor may not be original...

Good spotting @pfrederi!

That style of muffler was often found on the HH60 engines of late 60's and early 70's and it is definitely trapping a lot of heat under the hood around the carb. I have an HH60 with that same muffler and am in the process of trying to get the bolts holding it unfrozen since I also have a gap in the gasket that seals the muffler to the manifold. I've been running mine with the hood off until I can get the muffler replaced with a proper one (or a stack?) vented out the side.

 

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D_Mac

I will check the cap. As far as the engine being original I don't know. I do believe it is correct though. 6 hp Lauson Tecumseh ? Maybe I will look into changing the muffler.

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pfrederi
7 minutes ago, D_Mac said:

I will check the cap. As far as the engine being original I don't know. I do believe it is correct though. 6 hp Lauson Tecumseh ? Maybe I will look into changing the muffler.

 

 

Look on the air shroud Tecumseh stamped Model/Spec numbers into the metal.  Yours should be 75117E

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Handy Don
8 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

 

 

Look on the air shroud Tecumseh stamped Model/Spec numbers into the metal.  Yours should be 75117E

It should also show H60 as the model.

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D_Mac

20210921_101619.jpg

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squonk

Tecky Tecky Tecky! :) Make sure the kill wire isn't chafed somewhere. My 704 kept shutting off until I found the worn spot by the steering shaft. That had a Kohler so I new it wasn't the engine! :lol:

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pfrederi

Correct spec number but also could be Cover was swapped on to a different engine.  Original engine was painted red all over.  End Plate on yours seems to be black with no red peaking through.  No big deal as it fits and works but you should re-plumb the muffler to avoid overheating the carb.

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D_Mac

Better book an appointment with my exhaust guy. He hates tecumseh so I dont know if he will work on it. Last time he was over he put the whammy on my 500 Special Tecumseh engine.:ychain:

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Handy Don
3 hours ago, D_Mac said:

20210921_101619.jpg

KA-CHING! Original spec H60 shroud on there (nod to @pfrederi)!

So a PO changed the muffler at some point--probably 'cause it rusted out or maybe the threaded pipe broke off. Not gonna make your "muffler guy" happy!

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squonk

My sledge hammer is all polished up! 

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