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Mark Bartlett

Dozer blade mounts.... opinions welcomed!!

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Mark Bartlett

Here is a picture of my dozer blade axle mounts.  These mounts with hold 2" x 2"  x 3/16" square tubing full length to the blade. The material is 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle with Gr. 8 x 3/8" bolts.  Strong enough?

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peter lena

MARK,  absolutely the way to go , if you can over build any attachment area and then combine it with a ubication detail , you are adding life and and a very smooth mechanical advantage to movement. done that on a number of horse engagement areas , making them work with little to no effort , good job , pete !

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Mark Bartlett

Thanks!

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ebinmaine

VERY nice work. 

 

You'll do just fine with those. 

 

I made a similar set for my Cinnamon Horse C160. 

I needed to move the whole setup forward 2" to clear the oversized front tires I use. 

I also moved the back of the plow down about 1.25" to raise the front for extra ground clearance. 

 

I used a cut section of Wheelhorse frame and made a 3/4" notch at the bottom to hold the rod on the plow frame. 

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Mark Bartlett

Thanks for your opinion!

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Mickwhitt

Im making a plow bracket for my C-125. 

A bit of fabrication has resulted in this so far...

20201116_160232.jpg.6263dcdf08220f678217210ec1fa2a88.jpg

I have welded a piece of angle iron onto the base plate to take the thrust directly to the axle casing. 

Unequal angle is welded below to make the frame hanger. 

just deciding whether to cut the notch for inserting the frame bar into the bottom face or front face of the angle. If I cut it in the front it may be easier to mount.

20201116_155003.jpg.f59fb295bf3279cbca3f05be6646b701.jpg

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ebinmaine
40 minutes ago, Mickwhitt said:

just deciding whether to cut the notch for inserting the frame bar into the bottom face or front face of the angle. If I cut it in the front it may be easier to mount

Going to depend on ground level and IMHO how accustomed you are to setting implements in place. 

 

The front would theoretically give the advantage of being able to let the frame "hang" on place while setting levers but you may have to struggle with the frame to pull it (or roll the tractor a bit) into position. 

 

I'd use the mounts from the bottom for that reason. I find it easier to pull straight- UP into the bracket. 

 

Again. ... Personal preference. But that's the food for thought I can offer your process. 

 

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Mickwhitt

That was my thought process, whether it would benefit to hang the implement bar whilst latching it in place.

If I did go for a forward facing slot it would put more pressure on the latch mechanism when reversing, the plow trying to pull out as it were.

I think notching from the bottom kills two birds with one stone.

Mick 

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Mark Bartlett

Mickwhitt,  may I ask you what the diameter of round bar is you selected for your hitch?  I am rethinking how I will attach the tubes for the blade.  I was just going to use two individual pins, one for each side.  After looking at yours and the ensuing remarks I think I will make an "attachomatic" type hitch.  Mounting the blade would be much easier if I did I am sure.  Thanks in advance.

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ebinmaine

Mark having dismounted and mounted my plow a good many times on cold snowy ice covered unlevel ground I can tell you with rested assurance it won't make a lot of difference if you have two short pins or the attachomatic with one big one going all the way across. 

 

I rebuilt my own hitch so as to use the attachomatic levers but you still have to have small pins going through those levers to hold them in place.

 

I'll try to remember to get some pictures sometime in the next 2 or 3 days but it's basically the same thing Wheelhorse did. 

 

 

The one thing I can tell you for sure is that whether you're going to use your own pins or the attachment notches with levers you want to try to get the size as close as you can so that it's as tight as possible and also make a decent attempt to use a front end side to side float eliminator.

 

@pfrederi 

And

@WVHillbilly520H

 

Might each have pictures that would explain what I mean. 

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Mark Bartlett

Thanks!  Looking forward to seeing  your design.  As I build this blade I can understand the difficulty of mounting the rear  "hitch area" of the unit might be...especially on an uneven surface.  Thanks so much for the input and advice.  

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ebinmaine

No worries Mark that's what we're here for.

 

I forgot to mention above that  if you use two short pins it would help you quite a lot while lining them up to get the type that have a cone shape to the end of them. Doesn't seem like much of a big deal but it would save you quite a lot of struggle while lining them up hole to hole because they would become partially self-aligning. 

 

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WVHillbilly520H

Front home brew  attac-a-matic "anti-sway bar". 

post #30

IMAG3757.jpg

Edited by WVHillbilly520H
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Mark Bartlett

Yes, adding a taper to the end as an alignment aid is a good idea.  I thought about adding a lever to the pin to enable one to grab it to help get it through slightly miss-aligned holes in the dozer arms....even an end to hammer them in....thanks again. 

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Mark Bartlett

 WVHillbilly520H

Great idea!  

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WVHillbilly520H
Just now, Mark Bartlett said:

 WVHillbilly520H

Great idea!  

Look above i added the "blueprints" thread.

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Mickwhitt

I've done a bit more work today.

Made the drop out latches out of 1/4 flat plate.

I mounted them vertically rather than horizontal as they work better on my design. 

Just got to make a locking bolt to hold them in the closed position. 

I did the cut outs vertical and it is easier to put the attachment bar in.

20201117_165408.jpg.e14546069ef18412687f3575352a9450.jpg

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20201117_165243.jpg.59a80d33521b2abfdaf10d5614da765d.jpg 

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Mickwhitt

The bar which will go through my frame and into the drop outs is 3/4 inch bright bar. 

Im pretty sure that the plate I've made the hangers from is man enough for the job at 1/4 inch thick. But its a prototype so very much a test bed for my ideas.

 

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Mark Bartlett

As you can see I am not too far along with the blade yet so I am toying with your idea...and thanks for the photos!  You are right in that regardless of what anchoring system is used

getting alignment is a challange..laying on your side!   I used 1/2" dia. pin material...I probably should talk myself into 5/8" diameter.

 

Thanks again to all for sharing your advice and ideas...fun stuff!

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IMG_20201117_105702933[1].jpg

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ebinmaine
8 hours ago, Mark Bartlett said:

Thanks!  Looking forward to seeing  your design.  As I build this blade I can understand the difficulty of mounting the rear  "hitch area" of the unit might be...especially on an uneven surface.  Thanks so much for the input and advice.  

Mark I've put the video right below that I just went out and made for you.  Hopefully other people will find it useful at some point or another.

 

 

 

 

 

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Mark Bartlett

Hey, great camera work!  Thanks, I like what you have done there.  Looks to be a 5/8" rod or pin diameter, right?  Really appreciate all the effort you went to with

the video.  

 

This is the most useful forum I have ever used

 

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, Mark Bartlett said:

Hey, great camera work!  Thanks, I like what you have done there.  Looks to be a 5/8" rod or pin diameter, right?  Really appreciate all the effort you went to with

the video.  

 

This is the most useful forum I have ever used

 

Pin diameter on this one is whatever the stock Wheelhorse is using. I really want to say it's 3/4" but maybe somebody could confirm that for me. 

 

Like most of the guys on here I don't mind helping out at all whenever I can. I've been here maybe three and a half years now and I can't even begin to tell you how much I've learned about tractors, yes, but so soooo much more. 

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Mickwhitt

Hey Eric, thanks for the video too. 

 

Im going to start out on the plow frame tomorrow based on the dimensions of my mounting.

3/4 inch is the diameter of the bars for tachomatic implements i believe.

 

Mick 

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WVHillbilly520H

Here you can see my locking clips for the bar levers and "riser" blocks for more snow plow ground clearance out front.

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20200123_171041.jpg

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Mickwhitt

Hi all.

Had a decent stab at the front end of the plow frame. Cutting the angles was fun.

20201118_171041.jpg.f9359a61ca930a696ebc97878d1626bf.jpg

Hopefully I will be able to graft the plow blade from my walk behind machine onto the frame.

20201118_170808.jpg.860bea71f7420e741f13ffee0e615ea5.jpg

I will have to move the new silencer that I mounted low down under the chassis. But it will be nice to have a stack I think. 

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