55reasons 171 #76 Posted May 25, 2020 5 hours ago, squonk said: Your clutch switch is by your left pedal. They are usually junk. That could be what the mystery switch is for since you said the wires from it went down by the lift cylinder Ahhhh-Ha. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #77 Posted May 25, 2020 Dump cart question. Pulled the wheels off today so I can send all the wheels off to powdercoat in one batch. The dump cart doesn’t have bearings? Just flanged sleeves through the wheels? Should I just stick with it, or is there a conversion to switch to sealed bearings? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,937 #78 Posted May 25, 2020 1 hour ago, 55reasons said: Dump cart question. Pulled the wheels off today so I can send all the wheels off to powdercoat in one batch. The dump cart doesn’t have bearings? Just flanged sleeves through the wheels? Should I just stick with it, or is there a conversion to switch to sealed bearings? Unless your hauling a Detroit Diesel or @ebinmaine or @Stormin's logs your trailer wheels are fine. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,975 #79 Posted May 25, 2020 Those flanged sleeves will be plain bushes/bearings at a guess. Are there grease nipples in the wheels? If so, just grease now and then. That's what my Saxon trailer is like. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,852 #80 Posted May 25, 2020 If the flanged sleeves are 2 pc they are cast iro which mages a great old school bearing. If the are 1 pc tap them out and they are probable A stamped metal roller bearings. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #81 Posted May 25, 2020 1 hour ago, squonk said: Unless your hauling a Detroit Diesel or @ebinmaine or @Stormin's logs your trailer wheels are fine. Now that you mention it... I upgraded my orange dump trailer with a set of Wheelhorse front wheels that have bearings. We do run heavy a LOT. Loads of wood weigh 400 to 600 LBS or more. Loads of gravel/stone can easily top 1000. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,721 #82 Posted May 25, 2020 On 5/24/2020 at 2:57 PM, 55reasons said: Reading the FSM, it would seem that this 74 Auto just takes regular motor oil, so I guess I don’t need to use a hydraulic non-bypass filter eh? Just a standard oil filter will do I assume. The bypass in the automotive filter will bypass the pressure in you hydr system and the tractor will struggle to move or lift. Use the hydraulic filter on your hydraulic system! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,852 #83 Posted May 25, 2020 Some WH came with ATF and some with 30 at motor oil. You don’t want to mix those. So regardless what the manual says check what’s in it now. Red-brown =ATF yellow-black = motor oil 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #84 Posted May 26, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: If the flanged sleeves are 2 pc they are cast iro which mages a great old school bearing. If the are 1 pc tap them out and they are probable A stamped metal roller bearings. This is what I’m looking at. Stamped with a “5” near the flange. I assume these are the cast iron you speak of. A flat side running along each so that grease can pass along and make its way to the flange seat. Edited May 26, 2020 by 55reasons Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #85 Posted May 26, 2020 (edited) Also, I cut wood all day, every day. Currently, I drag it with my ‘84. This tractor couldn’t pull these loads, I don’t think, but it would be nice, on occasion, to load up a trailer full of wood cut for the fireplace (small stuff of the oak variety) and jerk it around. Edited May 26, 2020 by 55reasons 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #86 Posted May 29, 2020 Dropped off all the wheels, including the dump cart wheels, at the Powdercoater today. They were pretty rough, hopefully they’re halfway decent when they come back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #87 Posted June 3, 2020 Picked up the wheels, and dropped off the seat hardware at the powdercoater today. I’m hoping the red powder with a RAL code comes out close. If so, RAL coded powder has a direct paint matching code as well. 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #88 Posted June 3, 2020 Anyway, got the back tires on at least! 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #90 Posted June 3, 2020 What's the intended use for those tires? Never seen that tread pattern before. Pretty cool looking. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #91 Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, 71_Bronco said: What's the intended use for those tires? Never seen that tread pattern before. Pretty cool looking. They are actually golf cart tires. I chose them because they are 6 ply, they looked like they could be aggressive in soft stuff, but wouldn’t tear up the turf like an ag tire. I’m going to be planting a clover lawn and it doesn’t take kindly to the rough stuff. Edited June 4, 2020 by 55reasons Typos. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #92 Posted June 4, 2020 Front tires came in the afternoon FEDEX delivery. Drove it for the first time. Immediately had flashbacks of my childhood. I couldn’t be happier... What an awesome machine. 1 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #93 Posted June 4, 2020 (edited) BTW., I am obviously aware that the correct color for the wheels is white. I mean no disrespect to the lineage. I went with black for this project, but I’m going to get another set of white ones with Ag’s and triple ribs when it’s all over. Edited June 4, 2020 by 55reasons 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #94 Posted June 4, 2020 7 hours ago, 55reasons said: wheels There's several different ways to look at the coloring of these machines. Traditionalists or restorations of course everything would be correct. What it really comes down to at the end of the day is that it's your tractor and you should make it exactly what you want it to be. Please don't hate the poor thing green though. Something about that just sets me sideways. I don't know about the entire Wheel Horse line but most of it the wheels weren't actually white. It was an off-white. Linen. Trina and I use a Rust-Oleum 2x color called Navajo Beige which is a dead match to some of the insides of the 60s wheels we have taken apart that have probably never seen sunlight. But a lot of people prefer a slightly lighter or whiter shade. If you look at our lineup here, she and I have none that are all red. Each has something about it that is red or a tone of red. Cinnamon for instance is either reddish brown or brownish red depending on the light. All the engines we've done seem to end up the same color as the wheels for some reason. I suppose it's because we both like the contrast. Treat it right. Maintain it. Fix it. Make it your own. Use it. That's what it's all about. 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #95 Posted June 5, 2020 Today is the first day of real work. Luckily, the blades on the deck turn freely. Managed to score some original WH belts at the dealer, and two WH logo’d tranny filters. Came home, fired it up, made three passes, and snapped a tie rod. Luckily, the dealer had a replacement. I’ll go with this until I make my own with some heims and rod, etc. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #97 Posted June 5, 2020 Meanwhile, she’s putting in WORK and I’m loving it! (The headlight assembly is at the chrome shop) But I still need a hood ornament. I can’t aim without it. 👁 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #98 Posted June 5, 2020 Also, while I’m waiting for the seat parts to come back from powdercoat, I have an increased appreciation for transmission coolers. Sitting on this auto tranny only happens in 20 min intervals. 😂 1 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #99 Posted June 5, 2020 (edited) I ordered the sealed bearings off eBay and I can’t get these things to go on right for some reason. The bearing sleeves stick out and I’m at a loss as to the best way to get these things to torque down properly. There’s gap on the front and the back exactly the amount that the bearing sleeves stick out. Edited June 5, 2020 by 55reasons Share this post Link to post Share on other sites