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Darren Southard

Transmission swap

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Darren Southard

Hello all, need some help, as I can't find the answer, or maybe looked right past it.  

I have a 1257, 3 speed and found out outer bearing and seal are bad, now I know I could rebuild it I think, seen a lot post and videos, but my question is would a transmission out of a B80, which is a 6 speed which would actually make the tractor a 1267, but are they same size??

Would it be a direct replacement???

Thank you in advance for any help and advice you can recommend. 

Darren

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stevasaurus

Yes, you can do it that way, but I think the bolt pattern (the 4 bolts that hold the trans to the frame) are not the same pattern.  Your 1257 has the #5058 transmission.  It means it has the bevel gear differential.  Just between you and me, I would rather open the #5058 trans and replace the bad bearing and seal for about $20, then mess around trying to make something fit and then figure out witch drive belt I now need.

   The B-80 has the 8 speed #5091 or the #103907.  The brake drum on your 1257 is mounted on the 11/44 toothed mushroom gear.  The B-80 has the brake drum mounted on the cluster gear shaft.  This means that you would also have to fabricate the brake linkage a little to make it work.  By the way, the 1267 has the #5060 trans.  This is the 10 pinion Limited Slip differential and the brake drum would be in the same place as your 1257.  If you could find a #5060 trans, the brake linkage would be the same, but I still think the bolt pattern is different. 

    The #5058 transmission is considered a heavy duty transmission, it has 1 1/8" axles.  The bolt pattern is about 1/4" or more distance between the bolts.

   If you can do any of the above, you can re-build that transmission.  We can help with any way you decide to go.  :orcs-cheers:                       

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Darren Southard
Posted (edited)

Stevasaurus, thank you for info, I was looking for ease of what to do, and trying to find a direct bolt and play per say, so with transaxel already separated, trans was very hard to turn if at all, once out I filled with Marvel and atf, to soak clean, all leaked out, but as soon as put fluid in trans moved freely which surprised he'll out of me. So I'll probably go that route

Now would you do a complete rebuild or just whats bad, I know don't know what condition things are in inside, but if everything inside is good, should I just do bearing and seal, slap her back together and call a day. Thanks again for your knowledge

Edited by Darren Southard
Misspells

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WHX24
Posted (edited)

Crack it open and clean and inspect. Then you will know what bearings will need to be replaced. Lowell has complete kits or just the separate bearings as needed. I like to go through and replace everything... learned the hard way not to. 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html

Edited by WHX24
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stevasaurus

Pardon my manners...Welcome to Red Square.

 

I'm glad you decided to fix this transmission.  Obviously, you really will not know what you have until you open it.  They are all pretty much bullet proof and worth every penny to fix.  Like Jim said above...open it up, clean it and inspect the bearings.  Every thing is available.  Check out this thread with videos to see what is going on.  This is a sister to your trans...has a pinion differential and 1" axles.  Take some pictures so we can see to help.  I would fix what is bad and replace the 4 seals and gasket.  If it is good , don't worry about it.

Also, use this manual with the videos.  You want Section II.

 

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Darren Southard

Wow!! Thank you so much guys for great info.  

My son drove and cut grass with this tractor when he was 5. It was his step uncle's, and years later was given tractor. Right after receiving he was senior and redid motor for senior project, and then went into storage.  Well lost storage and now wanted to see what was wrong with trans. So after reading and deciding to join, (so glad I did) going to make trans right.  Probably take me a while(weeks) but will order parts I know I'll definitely need to have on hand, and go from there.  

Hats off to you gentleman

Thank you. 

Sincerely Darren

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stevasaurus

Darren, wait until you open and clean it to order parts.  The parts can be ordered and had the next day and shipping will be less if you get it all at one time.  Use this same thread to put in pictures and show us your progress.  Knowing now the history behind this horse...this is the right decision.   :occasion-xmas:  Replacing all of the bearings, seals and gasket is around (guessing)  around $170 to $200.  Replacing what is bad should be around $20 to $50.  In other words, if one axle bearing is bad, I would replace the other one.

   I'll make you a list of the bearings and seals and you can check out prices before you tear into it.  Give me a day.  I have some lists for the transmissions, but not for yours.

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Darren Southard

Okay, that makes sense, didn't know parts were that quick to get, that's great.... Thank you again so much

And only felt like swap was way to go, was thought tranny with hi-lo would be heavier duty then what is in it now. 😁😁

 

 

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stevasaurus

Bearings and seals for a #5058 bevel gear transmission.

 

differential carriage bearing (2) WH #1533  From Lowell  

outer axle bearing (2) WH #1526...KOYO #B-1816

outer axle seals (2)  WH #1213...SKF #11050

mushroom gear rh   WH#1532...KOYO #M-16121

mushroom gear lh  WH#1530....KOYO #B-1612

seal brakeshaft  WH#1232.....SKF #9815

cluster gear shaft bearing (2)  WH#1529.....KOYO #M-12121

input shaft  WH#1508 (1)...KOYO #B-1212

input shaft seal  WH#1303....SKF #7410

spline shaft bearing WH#1531...KOYO M-10121

case gasket...#3912

Here ya go...KOYO is the same Torrington numbers.

 

The low gear range is cool to have if you are running a roto tiller or climbing trees...other then that, most guys do not use the low range.

    You probably do not need to replace the #1533 bearings...2 are around $80, and most of the others may be OK.  Change out all the seals and the gasket.  Lowell has all of it.

 

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ebinmaine

@Darren SouthardSouthard

:text-welcomeconfetti:

 

 

Glad you found us!

Would love to see pics of that tractor and all the work you do.

 

You go ahead and pay real close attention to that fella Steve a saurus that's been giving you info.

 

He'll steer you in the right direction for sure.

 

I broke open my first horse transmission two or three years ago and lost all of my intimidation right then and there. They're nice and easy to work on. Rugged as all get-out.

 

For the most part, if you can figure out which direction to turn a ratchet you'll be able to get one of those fixed up.

 

When you get to the point of replacing the outer wheel bearing you can use a correct sized socket as a driver if you don't already have a set of them around.

 

 

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The Tuul Crib

:text-welcomeconfetti:T😎 :rs:

:wwp:

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Darren Southard

Will get pictures up as soon as can, probably by weekend, you know how that goes.  Thanks again gentleman!!! It's a real pleasure, finding guys that have the knowledge, but who are willing to share

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WHEELHORSEFAN*19

You are so correct Darren. There is a ton of people here who want to and will help, theres many many years of knowledge and experience here, I've been around Wheel Horses all my life but I've only begun to scratch the surface. If I get stumped I know where to go and get direction and info. Great bunch of guys here, by the way, Welcome to the Horse gang ! 

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WHEELHORSEFAN*19

aviary-image-1546561436731_1546561490769_001.jpg.18131184dd8806b67a51174dbf261571.jpg

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WHX24
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Darren Southard said:

 was thought tranny with hi-lo would be heavier duty then what is in it now. 

I field plow with a 1257 with that tranny Darren and I don't treat it gently... it's bullet proof and if it does break I can fix it! :) BTW I learned most of what I know about :wh: trannies  from the Dino!

20191012_103037.jpg

20190921_192712.jpg

Edited by WHX24
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roadapples

When you take the tranny or anything else apart take plenty of pictures while you go. Easier to put back together especially if you don't do it right away...

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Darren Southard

WHX24,   wow that is a sweet tractor, looks like what I have just ALOT prettier!!

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Darren Southard

Here's tractor day my son brought home from school

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Darren Southard

Tried posting a video, don't know if worked but here's tractor in current state

Screenshot_2020-04-06-21-21-38.png

Screenshot_2020-04-06-21-21-54.png

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stevasaurus

Start soaking bolts, roll pins, carter pins, hubs and pulleys to help ease of removal.  I like to use diesel to clean the inside, gears, case, etc.  A wire brush and/or wire wheel works wonders also.  Be firm, but gentile.  Shallow side of transmission (input side) goes down when you take out the bolts to open the case.  :occasion-xmas:

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ebinmaine

I use a 1.5 or 2 inch wide wood chisel and gently tap around the gasket for the perimeter of entire case to try to break the gasket free a little bit.

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Darren Southard

Okay great info thanks for that gentleman. Will do

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Darren Southard

Ok guys, started working the old girl today, ya it's been a little while, thought going to be easy, nut after four hours this where I am at

15869796559192357061552866920428.jpg

15869796927814772732010345285118.jpg

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Darren Southard

Broke a hub don't think that big of deal, but hitch pin that goes through case is frozen, was going to grind of both ends and beat down more since it is moving. Didn't want to sacrifice pin but figured a bolt or maybe find another pin down road after together.   

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ebinmaine
Just now, Darren Southard said:

Broke a hub don't think that big of deal, but hitch pin that goes through case is frozen, was going to grind of both ends and beat down more since it is moving. Didn't want to sacrifice pin but figured a bolt or maybe find another pin down road after together.   

If the hub is already broke and you can obviously cut that off.

Hubs on these normally require a puller and many of us actually use an old hub as the puller mechanism.

 

That  hitch pin in the rear....

I've had to cut those into 3 pieces to separate the transmission halves.

 

You can get a hardened pin from TSC or whatever Farm supply.

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