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oliver2-44

Replacing Implement Spring on my C81

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oliver2-44

The spring that pushes the rod to lock the implement lift In position on my C81 broke.  The parts breakdown shows a roll pin in the lower part of the rod, but I don’t see it.  So what am I missing, how does this come apart?   Also Im thinking of applying a little heat with a heat gun to get the rubber grip off. However I’d appreciate any suggestion for what has worked for you to get the black rubber grip off. 
Thanks 
C5478384-6342-4A30-AA99-9A448D2C16F5.jpeg.73dca67846e0d733fe3220cb2d29d483.jpeg56D0E2E1-885A-465D-B28A-9D418B11B87D.jpeg.9e67f3a9beca4fadfe01637892d92db2.jpeg

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Mickwhitt

That's not something I have ever replaced or stripped down. 

I will have a look at my manual and see if anything jumps out at me.

The hand grip on mine looks to be plastic rather than rubber, a little heat may free it but I'd be very cautious. 

Mick 

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daveoman1966

To get the grip off, find an open-end wrench that just fits over the steel tube.  Put that wrench up against the rubber grip and hammer the back of the wrench to drive the grip up and off of the tube...   they come off easily this way.  

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Stormin

 As above, but warm up with a rag soaked in hot water.

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Skipper

Or use a heat gun carefully ;-) 

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rjg854

do as Daveoman suggested, that is how I've done it

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rjg854

It would be easier if you took the implement arm off the tractor, then you could access the spring without taken anything else apart. It's only held on with 3 bolts.

Edited by rjg854
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peter lena

i would also access the transmission shift plate area , and the lower lift rod to frame plate / cover , that would give you the entire picture of its working / mount. while you are in there take the time ,to lubricate any movement point that is leaving a rust stain. jmoo, pete

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oliver2-44

My elderly mom was under the weather and I had to go help her this weekend.  Hopefully tomorrow evening I'll get a chance to work on this. Looking at the parts diagram I think I'll first try removing the hand grip with the wrench and maybe a warm wet reg with the heat gun carefully blowing on it.  Thanks @daveoman1966 

To remove the complete lift arm it looks like there is a roll pin to remove which can always be a challenge!

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rjg854

You don't have to remove the roll pin to fix that spring.  The spring goes under the block at the bottom of the arm and base of the handle.  Remove the 3 bolts that fasten the arm to the dash tower and the R pin that holds the shaft in place. That will give you enough play to change the spring.  Fairly easy to do.

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gwest_ca
1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

You don't have to remove the roll pin to fix that spring.  The spring goes under the block at the bottom of the arm and base of the handle.  Remove the 3 bolts that fasten the arm to the dash tower and the R pin that holds the shaft in place. That will give you enough play to change the spring.  Fairly easy to do.

That applies to the 1977 and earlier models.

 

In 1978 they went to the style used on the later 300-Series.

https://www.partstree.com/models/91-08k802-c-81-toro-lawn-tractor-1979/lift-linkage-16/

https://www.partstree.com/models/91-08k802-c-81-toro-lawn-tractor-1979/lift-linkage-cont-d-17/

 

Garry

 

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rjg854

I see that now :hide: thanks for keeping me on the straight and narrow :ychain:

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oliver2-44


BA854A28-596F-4D7F-AC0F-3A282D1F085F.jpeg.d371f49da07e00937b55b130d468437e.jpeg
So, I Applied just enough heat with the heat gun so the plastic felt warm to the touch. Used a wrench and hammer as Dave suggested and the grip came right off

5DBD3E00-4917-4F3C-A9BC-A8692E4358CD.jpeg.b356899bee4be8529230f803006d9e72.jpeg
There was no sign of a spring. The spring retainer is not budging

ECB3DBEA-36B2-4677-8BE9-2B326A69ACB1.jpeg.edb1e3557383dc080c1480c6fad94439.jpegThe lower lift rod is stuck in the position. It won’t move with light/medium hammer taps.  

Any suggestion how to get spring retainer out without removing lift arm?

Edited by oliver2-44

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gwest_ca

I would spray some penetrating oil on the retainer and keep tapping it with screwdriver and hammer to see if the retailer will loosen.

Do the same with the spring. The spring may be rusted to the rod.

The retainer should be like a cup that supports the bottom of the spring.

 

Garry

1978 C-Series Lift lock.jpg

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oliver2-44

Thanks for enlarging that Garry, I didn’t see the spring down in there.  I’ve started Hitting it with penetrating oil 2-3 times a day and hoping patience will get everything free

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gwest_ca

Try raising the attachment height control knob up to the end of the threads. Looks like the rod may be up as high as it will go. That may prevent any movement in the lift latch rod.

 

I had a problem with the knob rotating from vibration and would pull the rod up all the way so an attachment could not be lowered. Ended up adding a 3/16" x 3/4" x 2-1/2" piece of flat bar threaded in the center to the rod. Then put the knob on the rod. The flat bar is like a wing nut and serves as a jamb nut to prevent the knob from turning on it's own from vibration. To adjust height I loosen the knob, spin the flat bar to the attachment height limit I want and then tighten the knob against the flat bar to lock it.

 

Garry

C-81 attachment lift limiter.jpg

C-81 attachment lift limiter flat bar.jpg

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oliver2-44

Thanks Gary, I like your plate idea.  I have the attachment height know turned down to temporarily keep my dozer blade out of the dirt.  I've been lowering it each time I put penetrating oil on the retainer and tapping the rod up and down with a hammer.  I'm beginning to get a little up/down movement now.   

@gwest_ca,  Is the spring actually sitting inside the retainer and held in place by the rubber grip as shown in the parts breakdown, or is the spring actually below the retainer and sitting on the roll pin?

 

This tractor had been sitting outside in an overgrown area, neglected at the PO's yard with the carb removed and lost when I got it two winters ago. I drive down that street often and had never seen it until a winter freeze knocked the weeds down.  I knocked on the door and asked if he wanted to sell it.  So for $50, 4 used tires, a Chinese carb and a good service on everything, I've put it to work.  Now I'm gradually finding and fixing the additional neglect items as I use it.    

 

I was pushing dirt with the dozer blade, and can't get the tractor back in shed with the blade on.  However I have a large gas grill cover I picked up at Goodwill that makes a good tractor cover. 

Edited by oliver2-44

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pfrederi

 EDIT:    Sorry just realized you have a newer tractor this doesn't apply

 

 

 

The spring holds itself in place after you fit it over the nipple on the block.  The roll pin holds the block to the rod

 

 

 

Edited by pfrederi

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gwest_ca

To be honest I have never had one of these apart.

I suspect there is a counterbore in the tube of the lever. The retainer would sit at the bottom of the counterbore.

The retainer is not drawn to scale as it should be big enough to have the spring fit inside it. There should be a bottom in the retainer for the spring to sit on with a hole in the center for the push button rod.

Perhaps the hole in bottom of the retainer has worn and allowed the spring to work it's way through the hole a bit which would reduce the spring's effective length.

The spring should sit between the cup in the retainer and the roll pin.

Sounds like you are getting it.

 

Garry

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photoguy

I had A 312 that I thought the lift lever lock spring was broke. Turned out the lift lever was bent just enough at the base to bind the spring.  Pushed forward on the lever till the lock button felt spring tension again and its been fine.  The tractor previously had a 2 stage snow blower on it and the weight tweaked the lever a bit.

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