Pullstart 59,674 #476 Posted March 18, 2019 The rest of the rubber was stripped away and the spoke was welded all around. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #477 Posted March 18, 2019 Part 3 under way! I spent 40 minutes rolling the tank to coat all surfaces, now time to spend 30-40 minutes draining excess from the tank! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #478 Posted March 18, 2019 I was able to get most of the 8 oz can back out. I guess it’s important to get as much out as possible and maintain a thin even single layer. I’ll continue rotating the tank for the next 40 minutes or so. I also removed the plug on the bottom and put a thin layer of grease on the threads, then re-inserted the plug. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #479 Posted March 18, 2019 A piece of paper towel stuffed in a chunk of brake line makes for a good way to clean out the excess in the outlet bung 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #480 Posted March 20, 2019 Well, coverage is decent but not perfect. I drained the tank as long as possible but somehow it still pooled pretty bad. The thicker the coverage, the worse the results as the chemicals drying will bubble and leave voids. It takes a full 96 hours to cure and I’ll be heading out of town for the weekend with some race car guys so I’ll do a water test next week. If it leaks, I’ll have to get another can of sealer and try again I suppose. The next time, if there is a next time, I’ll use as little sealer as possible and spend more time rotating the tank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #481 Posted March 25, 2019 It’s water test day, I’ve got my fingers crossed! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #482 Posted March 25, 2019 Another order of business coming soon is wiring. Call me crazy, but I like the old school ammeter idea. The hour meter is accurate to the best of my knowledge, but the engine is not original and hours are unknown. Feel free to weigh in, as I am not convinced what to do. Should I: Omit the ammeter and stick to the “keep it simple stupid” theology? I know how to check for charging and load with a meter, if need be. I believe when I build my harness, I would just jump the two terminals for the ammeter and keep running wire, right? Replace the hour meter with the ammeter? I could keep tabs on the electrical system easier, but it might hinder the maintenance plan. Typically I stick to the annual oil change and service and call it good. Relocate the key, wire them both up? I could move the voltage regulator to free up space for the key switch relatively easy, or possibly move the key into the tank portion of the dash. Regardless, I have some holes in the dash tower and tank casting to fill. I might as well lay it out how I want it now, instead of wish I would have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #483 Posted March 25, 2019 Well, this big hole in the tank dash settles things now, doesn’t it? Open mouth.... insert foot. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,093 #484 Posted March 25, 2019 Perhaps the other fellows could weigh in and tell you how to wire an ammeter safely if it can be done. @squonk @953 nut @pfrederi I'm not at all a big fan of ammeters and have not been for most of my life having seen problems in both cars and tractors. A voltmeter is more my style. They are definitely two different gauges with two different purposes. I've just always understood how to look at a voltmeter and see what is going on just as easily and a voltmeter that isn't working is just a pain. A shorted out ammeter can melt stuff. Bad bad bad. I like the idea of an hour meter and we use them on some of our equipment at work but on my own home tractor I change the oil once or twice a year anyways and really don't pay a lot of attention to the reading on an hour meter so I don't put them back into the ones that we've been building. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,911 #485 Posted March 25, 2019 Ammeter is wired in series. Where the battery positive cable connects to the solenoid if equipped with one, the smaller wire is the power feed to the ign switch. Connect the ammeter in series between that post and the switch. If you do not have a solenoid, wire it into the battery feed wire.in series. You want all power going thru the ammeter. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #486 Posted March 25, 2019 I’m calling this day a Wheel Horse success! No leaks, time for more notable progress to happen! 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,093 #487 Posted March 25, 2019 Super excellent! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #488 Posted March 25, 2019 Fr@nk’s first family ride! 5 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #490 Posted March 25, 2019 3 3 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #491 Posted March 25, 2019 I'm surprised to be sayin'... Frank don't look half bad topless. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #492 Posted March 25, 2019 1 1 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #493 Posted March 25, 2019 Yes, Frank is loud. Also, he only smokes when he drinks. I think he’s running a bit rich! 2 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #494 Posted March 25, 2019 Well, my past ignition switch fix didn’t last. Possibly the contacts had a wear resistant coating before? I had to hot wire the coil to get our family ride taken care of tonight. A good load like the hill in the field and it acted like it was flooding out. Though I don’t see any fuel leaking, the thing has a very strong gas odor, I’m guessing it’s unburnt fuel in the exhaust? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #495 Posted March 25, 2019 Figured out my switch problem! I’ve got another one that’ll do the trick from the Charger 12 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #496 Posted March 26, 2019 The “new” switch is wired in, we’re up and running with no vice grips or jumper wires! I’ll get the wires all wrapped up in loom and hopefully solder all the crimped connections, then heat shrink the ends. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #497 Posted March 26, 2019 4 hours ago, AMC RULES said: I'm surprised to be sayin'... Frank don't look half bad topless. Topless and no hanging weight? Not so pretty, but a wiring necessity. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,674 #499 Posted March 26, 2019 This should clear some wires... I roughed the walls in with a carbide tipped sawzall blade, then cleaned it up with a 4 flute hss endmill. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,093 #500 Posted March 26, 2019 6 hours ago, pullstart said: we’re up and running with no vice grips or jumper wires! Whoa!!! Looking good Kev! Great pile o family pics man. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
