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Joshn569

New project - Raider 12 six speed

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Looking good guy keep us up to date. Just a suggestion if you know somebody or anybody in the area that does sand blasting. Best way to clean up those frames and other parts as it will leave it whistle clean and get into those corners. Can save a lot of time with a wire wheel. Blast, wipe down and ready for primer/paint. Most places that make headstones do sandblasting as well as body shops.

14 hours ago, Joshn569 said:

rustoleum etching primer. Decided on rustoleum regal red with rustoleum clear

That what many of the fellas do here and comes out good. We've seen some fine paint jobs here come out of a rattle can.  If I was going to do a true trailer queen I would pro paint it but painter I'm not and most of my tractors are going to end up with dirt and grease on them anyway!

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Quite a lot of sand (shot) blasters do prime their work. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Might ask if you're sending parts out to be blasted.

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One of the biggest reasons to have it blasted versus using a wire wheel or other methods is to provide a solid surface finish for the primer to "bite" into - blasting leaves sort of a coarse top finish to the steel and will remove any reside from paints or the steel's pickling from when it passed through the rollers at the plant . Originally, WH just painted right over the pickling - it can prevent the paint from adhering properly and rust underneath - as we all know too well. Up to you , after all it is a tractor - not a show car but some guys push that boundary, lol.

I will say this - prior to doing your primer - use some 80 grit sand paper to roughen the surface a little and use several coats per the instructions on the can. Self-etch primers work the best or a good automotive grade gray primer . Most of the red oxide primers do not dry nor cure well - I'd avoid those out of a spray can as it can lead to problems with lifting later.

 

Either way, pay attention to re-coat times , humidity and temperature limits - those things will determine how well it adheres and looks after it's done. Small tests on easily hidden small parts is a great way to practice for a final finish - a common trick for pro shops and such. Bright sunlight will tell you if there are enough top coats - it generally takes 3 coats to get the full color depth. A nice easy wet sand with 400-600 will prep the top coat for the clear coat if you want to go that route.

 

Hope this helps, have fun

 

Sarge

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7 hours ago, Tankman said:

Quite a lot of sand (shot) blasters do prime their work. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Might ask if you're sending parts out to be blasted.

I may have the big ticket items like hood/fenders blasted. 

 

 

 

 

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Good call Joshn..... sounds like you got a handle on things. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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On ‎2‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 8:27 PM, Joshn569 said:

I may have the big ticket items like hood/fenders blasted. 

Years ago picked up my '90 520-8, had all the pieces shot blasted.

Very pleased! The Horse is now Rustoleum Regal Red and Terry's decals. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

TORO is no longer in the picture. :ROTF:

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Edited by Tankman
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Progress report. Got a few small parts stripped, primed, painted, and cleared. Super happy with the regal red. Hope to have the frame done in the next couple days.

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Got some more stuff painted including the frame! Looks real nice too.

 

Started on the engine. The set screws in the drive pulley took some doing but i got them backed out just enough to remove it. It was scarey. Piston has a B stamped into it. From what i have read that is the bigger std bore? I dont have the tools to measure the cylinder at the moment. Once i get it measured im thinking about getting the complete engine overhaul kit from isavetractors...

 

 

 

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Got some parts in and a few more small things painted / prepped and ready for paint. Decided to go with black for the rims.  20180305_003357.jpg.6f3ae723fe7dd7132f565f0edbfa77b3.jpg

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That cleaned up really nice!

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Just something about black rims....must have something to do with early RJs :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Welp, I replaced the old cigarette lighter socket (since i dont smoke ) with a hi tech (for 1968 lol) digital battery voltage gauge. Then I was feeling ambitious and tried to put the dash decal on... And it was a complete failure! I sanded it down and cleaned the metal off with rub alcohol. I then used soapy water in a spray bottle and sprayed the decal. It stuck is some places but not around the edges or the rib crease down the center of the dash. Got the wifes hair dryer out but it didnt work out for me. So then i did a real dumb thing and tried some super glue and it just bubbled up ruined the decal. 

 

I orderd a new decal. Any advice for next time? Im thinking i will not use soap and water.

 

Also, the shift fork i orderd online was back orderd for a unknown amount of time so i cancelled it. Good news is somebody on facebook (wheel horse junkies) sent me a link to one on ebay and for a third of the price.  👍

 

 :wh:

 

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They can be a pain to put on and good thing Terry is good about sending out another but yes no bare metal. I layed down a base coat of self etching primer with a couple of top coats to fill in imperfections with some sanding. Pretty much then like Terry showed in his thread. Another word of caution when reinstalling the choke and throttle cables DO NOT rely on the D shaped holes to keep the bases from spinning. If they spin while tightening the backside nuts it will wrinkle the decal. Same goes for even the dash screws ...use a small fiber washer he mentioned.

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Oh BTW :handgestures-thumbupright: on the volt gauge Care to share your source on those? !

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2 hours ago, WHX14 said:

Oh BTW :handgestures-thumbupright: on the volt gauge Care to share your source on those? !

I got it from ebay. You can get it in different colors also. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F32213754984

 

I had the dang dash piece painted 👿 

Lesson learned lol. 

 

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Some more progress.

Lots of time and effort into that rear wheel, and i mean lots! I dont think i got it in me to do the other one by hand. All the small stuff is just about done and painted so i think im going to find someone local and get me hood and fenders and wheel blasted.

 

Do any of you have any pointers on painting the rear wheels with spray cans? It has such a deep dish im sort of concerned about getting good even paint coverage inside.

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Posted (edited)

The last set of wheels I painted were done on a pair of feed rollers for a table saw - this way I could just roll the wheel while holding the gun in one position. That's the best coverage and results I've gotten so far.

 

Sarge

Edited by Sarge
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Patience. Light coats. Give all coats time to dry as per instructions on the can. Lots and lots of patience. You'll be rewarded in the end. Remember, light coats, 1 at a time.

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I always like the black contrast with the red. I t just makes the whole tractor pop a little more and forces one to see detail work more. @JPWH, myself and @Achto is doing one with some black trim and no matter how you do it you can never be wrong. Next non original I do will get the same treatment.

 

Looking good .. get that tranny together and you'll have a fine roller! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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On 3/9/2018 at 10:55 PM, Joshn569 said:

Do any of you have any pointers on painting the rear wheels with spray cans? It has such a deep dish im sort of concerned about getting good even paint coverage inside.

 

I set two pipes or pieces of angle iron on some horses to set the rims on. This leaves minimum contact on the rim. I paint the back first then I grab the rim on the inside (this will be covered by the tire any way) and flip them over to paint the front side. Before the next coat flip the rims over to start with the back again. Always end with the front getting the last coat. I've had my best luck with this method. At worst you will have 4 small spots to touch up on the back of each rim. Most times these spots are not noticeable though.

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