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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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oliver2-44
19 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

OXz4Llfl.jpg?1

@OutdoorEnvy are you going to clear coat those now

Edited by oliver2-44
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JoeM
3 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

It's off

What a shame, having one that tight and key that good having the seal to fail. It will take another thirty years to grow back!

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Ed Kennell
20 minutes ago, JoeM said:

It will take another thirty years to grow back!

I could coat it with Iodine before assembly.....that should speed up the weld process.

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peter lena

@Maxwell-8  good call on that type of cutter , that longer side bite and ground rocker outer jaw edge , gives you a very solid mechanical advantage , bet that first try on a lubricant soaked , key is a good feeling , pete

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

I could coat it with Iodine before assembly.....that should speed up the weld process.

Excellent idea Ed.  

 

 

 

39 minutes ago, Achto said:

. After soaking the cylinder with ATF for a week it turned over easily by hand.

Nice save Dan!!!

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Ed Kennell
15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Excellent idea Ed.

It works,  I have used Iodine to create brown finishes on musket barrels like   The Brown Bess.

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WHX??
On 4/11/2022 at 3:55 PM, JoeM said:

Worked on putting together the first set of duals. Those Farm Specialist tires are tough to work with when your not trying to bugger up the rims. Talk about a Jane Fonda workout! 

 

2100882962_RearDualsFarmSpecialist1.jpg.ef20daf42f9c0f5b27f50439f377b05b.jpg

 

 

Nice Joe what did you end up for width? 6 & some change & how much in between? I like the staggered lug look. 

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JoeM
7 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

how much in between? I like the staggered lug look

About an inch. I was thinking about taking them apart and taking a little off but I am concerned #2 gravel will stick in between the tires, then again, Im probably not really going to use it..... just for show. ???

I was thinking about the ride when I lined up the tires. They are stiff buggers.

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WHX??

I run just a couple of psi in the outsides and 8 to 10 on the inside. Helps a little. 

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8ntruck

I pulled the 14-8 out from its winter slumber.  Took the front blade off and put the 42" SD on.  Needed to add air in one of the tires and a bit of oil to the crank case.  Started up like normal.

 

Got to schedule an oil change, transmission oil change, and the replacement of a tie rod that I wired back together last fall during leaf cleanup.

Edited by 8ntruck
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SylvanLakeWH

Double post…

 

Edited by SylvanLakeWH

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SylvanLakeWH
10 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I run just a couple of psi in the outsides and 8 to 10 on the inside. Helps a little. 

:text-yeahthat:

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Horse Newbie
6 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

:woohoo:    It's off.

104_0394.JPG.5ce39ec523ef024d042d16bcef67c760.JPG

 

The key was OK and in place.         I know pulling on that flange is not a good practice, but that is what I had at the time.   For the next one, I'll make a proper puller or borrow Lynns. @lynnmor

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Next challenge...get the key out.   I cut a small notch in the end to get a chisel under and was able to tap it loose.

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Alll cleaned up and nice sliding fit going back together.

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The new NAPA seal will be in tomorrow.     Mike. @squonk, I gave your number 11124 to my local guy and he says the new NAPA # is 27SS2259.     $9.69 each     

@Ed Kennell did you coat the axle with anti-seize before you put the hub back on ?

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Ed Kennell
30 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

 did you coat the axle

Not yet, but I will when the seal is delivered.

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Wheelhorse#1

I’m surprised the leaking seals didn’t help keep the rust at bay.

Persistent paid off ! 

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ebinmaine
7 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

replacement of a tie rod

Go big. 

The holes are likely egged a bit. 

Drill or grind them the next size up.  

I went to a 7/16" double male heim joint for all 4 and had someone make up a 3/4" or 7/8" diameter center rod. 

Cost is similar and that will outlast even a Wheelhorse.  

McMaster Carr has the parts.   

 

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Ed Kennell
10 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

I’m surprised the leaking seals didn’t help keep the rust at bay.

Persistent paid off ! 

The hub had 36 years to brown weld fast to the axle. 

The leak just started a few weeks ago and it may have soaked  loose in the next 36 years,  but 78yos don't plan that far ahead.    :confusion-waiting:

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peter lena

 

@Achto on your c-141, bet that would suck up a , aerosol lubrication rub down , that dry red , would be oil stained , spray down , let it soak in a day, rub  down with clean cloth , till dry . do it again , patina saved !  ever try some rislone zinc  in that ?  2 0z  for each qt of oil . been using that in all my  stuff  ,and the running ese is very evident , those hot oil changes , are a real flush out , looks like black coal oil . good back and forth with you , stay sane ,  pete   

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squonk

Fitted the deck onto the 1075 for some old-school mowing yesterday. First time I can remember having to mow before Easter.

IMG_20220413_100316441.jpg

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WHX??
13 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

pulling on that flange is not a good practice

Not so bad on that style hub Ed. 

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Wheelhorse#1
49 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Not so bad on that style hub Ed. 


10-4 When needed I always go with the beefier style hub.Much more meat on them !

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JoeM
15 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

did you coat the axle with anti-seize before you put the hub back

NO NO NO Never!

You want it to stay together, not come apart! 

An integral part of the attachment system is the hub surface grip area on the shaft. The set screws apply the tension not the retenson. That is why it is critical for the hub bore and shaft to be on size.

The shaft and hub will hold the best dry. 

 

 

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Achto
1 hour ago, JoeM said:

NO NO NO Never!

 Another can o worms.:)

 

I use never seize on my axles and have not had an issue. The set screw holds more than you know. Even a taper lock pulley that gets tighter on the shaft when you tighten the bolts will slide off if there is no set screw. Been there, seen it happen on a 3ft pulley attached to a 7ft radiator fan. BTW the set screw on this set up is only a 5/16-18.

Edited by Achto
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WHX??
2 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

I always go with the beefier style hub

But I am a purist with the weaker star hubs... ... :hide::lol:

 

1 hour ago, JoeM said:

NO NO NO Never!

Gotta side with Dan on this one Joe. 

When I had to re-open up  a 5060 tranny that I restoed I had to re-pull hubs that I antied and were still a bugger to get off. 

We do always add second set screws and practice the religion of checking them regular for tightness & full length keys for the plow mules. 

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