Jump to content
Bowdoinham Dan

Correct wire gauge for k241

Recommended Posts

I have a Raider 10 with a K241 engine that won't turn over.  It's totally dead.  Headlights won't even turn on.  I've got a brand new battery and new battery terminal wires, but the small wiring is old and this might be the problem:  a disconnection somewhere.  So I'm gonna rewire some parts with new wire.  

 

Does anyone know the correct wire gauge to buy?  I can't find it listed in the manual.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

It was originally a combination of 14 gauge and 16 gauge for everything but the battery cables. To simplify, I would just use 14 gauge.

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

If your Raider has the ignition switch that powers the starter directly rather than using a solenoid the switch probably is the problem. Here are a couple wiring diagrams you may want to use to get away from the older style switch. One is for battery powered ignition with points and the other is for electronic. Raiders came both ways depending on the year.

5a4234a37acc8_batteryignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.136d90cff5443e65e041cc548bfa5dea.jpg

5a4234b9b1b05_Mag.ignitiontractor-wiring.jpg.8840b68c2b8a8b1401db101326ebb662.jpg

 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

It's a K241S- -electric start with a 15 amp alternator.  There's a solenoid.  I'll start replacing old wires with 14 gauge and see what happens.  For what it's worth, the tractor made a buzz buzz buzz sound when I turned the key  before it quit.  A buddy of mine was not able to get it to turn over using jumper cable from the POS terminal to the solenoid.  He thinks it's the stator, but I'm going to try the simple solutions first.

 

It's annoying.  7 inches of fresh powder last night and I can't run my wh-powered snowblower!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Download the Kohler manual from the files section of this forum. In the electrical section is the procedure for testing the stator. The stator has nothing to do with starting the engine. However, if it is bad (which I doubt) you will not be able to maintain a charge to the battery, and a weak battery can cause a world of problems.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I'm going to venture a guess that your problem lies in this area:

c81a.png.348e42e74b20cdeddd3bf44b4cb2d017.png

 

The arrow points to the engine anti-vibration cradle. The cradle is isolated from the frame with rubber mounts. Therefore, it is not grounded to the frame or battery. So Wheel Horse added a separate ground wire from the cradle to the frame. Your starter ground is made through the bolts that connect the starter to the engine block. The block is grounded to the cradle through the mounting bolts, and the cradle is grounded to the frame via a 6 or 4 gauge cable. The battery connects to the frame and completes that ground circuit to the starter.

 

Check this ground path first. It is a common problem with all 1978 and later tractors with the cradle mount.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Just throwing it out there: .... 953 nut  made an excellent point .... depending on the year of the Kohler.  I recently acquired a 1973 "No Name" 12.  Couldn't get to start. After some research, I found out that in that one year, 1973, Kohler used a Solid State breakerless ignition module. Mine was bad.  Just throwing it out there!

Edited by JimmyJam
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Good point when it comes to an engine that won't start due to no ignition (spark), but in this case his engine won't turn over, which has nothing to do with ignition.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6 hours ago, JimmyJam said:

Just throwing it out there: .... 953 nut  made an excellent point .... depending on the year of the Kohler.  I recently acquired a 1973 "No Name" 12.  Couldn't get to start. After some research, I found out that in that one year, 1973, Kohler used a Solid State breakerless ignition module. Mine was bad.  Just throwing it out there!

The only reason I included the two drawings is that we didn't know what year Raider 10 we were dealing with. With the additional information I am thinking that the first step should be to clean and tighten ALL electrical connections including grounds. I would also suggest moving the ground cable to the engine block.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Builderchris
      I need some help. I just purchased 3 garden tractors, plus implements, from a guy on Craigslist and I'm having difficulty identifying one of them. It looks to me like it's a C100, but honestly for all I know it could be a Raider10 or a charger10 just as easily. I'm really not sure. The tag under the dashboard reads, Model T10, Serial # 329650. When I googled Wheel Horse T10 I got nothing. Can one of you great Wheel Horse guru's help me out?
       
      Thanks 
      Chris
    • By Bowdoinham Dan
      I've got a Raider 10 that won't start and am not sure what to do, but I suspect that something needs replacing. 
       
      ENGINE MODEL: KOHLER K241S 10HP
       
      WHAT HAPPENS:  I turn the ignition and hear a loud buzz/crackling sound coming from somewhere in the vicinity of the starter/battery area (PICTURED).  I turn the ignition over again and the sound repeats.  I turn it over a third time and it's dead. 
       
      RECENT MAINTENANCE:  Replaced/patched some wiring, new battery (charged yesterday, had been sitting for the winter), new spark plugs.  I'm an idiot with the internal combustion and am probably in over my head with this thing, but willing to give it my best go with good guidance.  Would really love to get the tiller running for the spring. 
       
      Thanks gang
       
      Dan

    • By 69-Raider-10
      Happy Easter fellow Horse Junkies! I am not happy with my Raider 10 after I swapped out the Lauson for a K181. Its not so much the difference in power between the 10hp and the 8hp, its the fact that my other 2 tractors are a Bronco 14 and a 416 8 Onan. I hop on the Raider and even though its the most mechanically sound and aesthetically pleasing tractor, it has the least cajones. I have a low hour 14hp Magnum sitting around that I was saving as a backup but I think I want to drop it in the Raider. Anyone make this type of swap before? Anything that makes it not doable or ill advisable? As always I appreciate the input and your time in answering. Happy Easter!
    • By Kyle Rogness
      Hello Wheel Horse people, I have a raidar 10 with a 12 horsepower Kohler engine in it and it will run fine for 10-15 minutes then we'll overheat and drives sluggish with not much power any ideas as to what I should look for or possible causes?  
      Thanks in advance
    • By 69-Raider-10
      Followed up the Trailblazer 7 purchase with another good CL find. This one is a REALLY good one. Picked up a 68' Raider 12  That came with wheel weights, chains, 48" deck in insanely good condition, and a dump cart with hydraulics! I'm not sure if the cart is an actual Wheel horse, it could be but the tires aren't right. Obviously the hydraulics aren't original. Either way, I paid the equivalent of buying the cart and wheel weights at Fair market value. I couldn't believe it made it past 24 hours. Nice to know I don't have much competition in the area! 
      Couple of questions on the setup of this beast. My buddy thinks it was a pulling tractor. It has the rear wheel hub extensions (which I don't mind at all. Looks slick if you ask me), it also has a modified throttle body which works fantastic and is a thousand times better than the twist-lock cable, it had a homemade steering tensioner at the base of the steering wheel made from a spring and half a coffee can lid to protect the paint, and the footboards have extensions off the front sides. The fella I bought it from got the tractor from his uncle who I'm guessing passed away because he didn't have much info on the tractor at all. He wasn't sure why things were setup like they were. Certainly explains why the deck is pretty much mint. I swear those blades are original. Overall, the thing runs like a top and purs like a kitten with the modified muffler. 
      Will the 48" deck mount up on my attachomatic setup on my 69' Raider? That's the other thing, take a look at this rear. There are no latches.
      Thanks in advance for any info! 


×